Barbados to Martinique

Guess where?

We stayed in Barbados for a week. The catamaran, Pivot Point, joined us at anchor in Carlisle Bay. I think they found the loud music and the regular stream of tourist catamarans coming past from the nearby careenage too invasive and they moved to the opposite end of the bay.

 

 Although we were supposed to be resting after our sea passage, we had to do the usual jobs – finding a Digicel store, obtaining Barbados dollars, filling up with diesel and water, locating a laundry and topping up our food supplies.

The careenage, Bridgetown, where we tied our dinghy

The careenage is a canal like passage which leads to a man made lagoon. A lifting bridge allows yachts and other vessels to pass through to moorings. Small dinghies can pass under the bridge and tie up in the centre of town. It is advisable to use a chain and padlock, which we did. All along the careenage, tourist catamarans, sports fishing boats and dive boats take on visitors. It’s a hive of activity at the beginning and end of each day.

Drinking water can be obtained in the careenage but it’s easier to take containers to the fishing port in the dinghy. Diesel and petrol can be purchased there also – cash only. You might need a funnel for filling small petrol cans.

 

Jeremy and John 

Jeremy’s brother, Gavin, has a friend called John, who lives in Barbados, not far from Bridgetown. Last time we were there in 2008/9, John and Janice looked after us. Sadly, Janice died a few years ago. With Gavin’s help and Jeremy’s new Digicel SIM card, we were able to contact John and visit him in his beautiful house that overlooks the ocean. He was recovering from a cornea transplant he’d had only a few days’ previously. He was being very well looked after by three women.

Leda and Jeremy

 We spent about two hours chatting to John. His housekeeper, Lynne, remembered us from our previous visit, made us welcome and offered us coffee, which we drank as we talked. John arranged for Leda, to come from Bridgetown to take us to the nearby gas filling station, where we filled our Australian gas bottle for only 5.50 USD. We invited Leda to have lunch with us in Bridgetown. She accepted. Leda and her sister have started a successful business in Barbados producing handmade yoghurt.

Horses at Carlisle Bay

It’s 113 nautical miles from Carlisle Bay, Barbados to Le Marin, Martinique, an overnight sail for us. First, we hauled up the dinghy and Jeremy made some repairs to the Hypalon. I made a mince stew in the pressure cooker. We weighed anchor on Thursdsay 20^th April and motored to the cruise ship dock to clear out. A cruise ship was tied up and several other ships and tugs, leaving little space for Sal Darago. With some difficulty, we managed to tie up to huge ship fenders between a tug and a ship. We had a short wait for Port Control. We paid 100 Barbados dollars (about £45) and took the receipt to Immigration. After another short wait, Customs arrived and we were cleared to leave.

In with the big ships

I found the motion of the sea uncomfortable. We motored at first. In the afternoon a good easterly sailing wind arrived and we had almost 2knots of current with us. By 0800 on Friday 21^st April, we were at the entrance to Le Marin. There were many vessels and fishing pots to avoid. On arrival at the port, the area was overcrowded with vessels making it difficult to find a space to anchor.

Le Marin

Clearing in was easy at the shop on the fuel dock using the computer and only 5 euros to pay. While we were in Marin, we explored the many chandleries, used the dinghy dock at the supermarket, Leader Price, and stocked up with heavy goods like UHT milk and beer. We kept meeting an Australian sailing couple and shared some of our experiences with each other.

 

Diamond Rock

Jeremy needed to see a dentist, but the surgery was closed until Monday afternoon. He took matters into his own hands and stuck his loose crown back in place with super glue.

 

Anse Noir

We left Marin on Sunday 23^rd April and motorsailed 22nm to Anse Noir, passing inside Diamond Rock on the way. As it was a hot Sunday, the anchorage was crowded. We were just in front of a large yacht on entering and anchored before they arrived. We went ashore, climbed up lots of steps, walked down into Anse Dufour and waited for an hour in a busy restaurant for lunch. We met a French family at the next table. The husband spoke good English and helped us with the menu.

Bibliotheque Schoelcher, Fort de France

Back on Sal Darago, we decided to leave Anse Noir as more boats had arrived and deafeningly loud music was blasting out over the small bay. We motored 4nm to Fort de France, the capital of Martinique, and anchored close to the old fort. My tooth broke and the filling dropped out as I was eating crisps and cashew nuts.

 

Anyone for crepes?

The next day we exchanged Brazilian and Barbados currency for euros at a dreadful exchange rate. Tourist Information were very helpful. There was a dentists just around the corner. After a half hour wait, my tooth was repaired for a little over 70 euros. Jeremy took both our phones to the Digicel shop and bought SIM cards that will work on all the islands (45 euros each). More items for SD were bought at Sea Services. We wanted to exchange our empty camping gaz bottle. The fuel dock where this could be done was a mile away. We could walk, catch a bus, or take the dinghy. We took the dinghy, exchanged the gaz and found a local place for lunch that served up enormous plates of Creole food. Jeremy bought some diesel additive at a chandlery. Unfortunately, it was for essence (petrol) so we had to return it the next day. We walked there and back. Brunch of crepes with ham and cheese back in town was a rare, tasty treat. On our return to SD, we prepared to leave for St Pierre, about 10nm further north. Once again, the anchorage was crowded. We found a space at the north end, but we were only just on the sandy ledge, with depths plunging behind us. Fortunately, there was little wind. The next day, we used a coin operated laundrette and washed all our seat covers, bedding and clothes.

Anchorage at Fort de France

Today, Thursday 26^th April, we re-anchored once a German yacht left and now we are the only vessel in the northern part of St Pierre. Jeremy went ashore for water, fresh food and to clear out. We leave for Antigua in the morning, 152nm north.