Gibraltar to Menorca

Passing Point Europa, south Gibraltar

 We left Gibraltar on Thursday 11^th June. Strong adverse winds were forecast for the next few days, so we decided to leave before they arrived. We would have liked an early start but Queensway Quay Marina has an oil boom across its entrance which did not open until 0830. We were at the boom as it opened and into the big ship dock which leads to Gibraltar Bay. A sudden, strong downdraft from the Rock hit the side of Sal Darago, causing her to heel steeply. Jeremy stopped taking in fenders and lines and returned to the cockpit.

The bay was much quieter and we were able to stow our fenders and lines and hoist the mainsail with one reef in it. We motorsailed around the southern point of Gibraltar to find 17knots of wind dead on the nose. Surprisingly, there was little swell, although progress was jerky. We were very happy to tie up to the fuel berth in Puero de Banalmodena Marina (not far from Malaga and much cheaper). After taking on fuel, we moved to a berth. Later we enjoyed hot showers and a good night’s sleep.

 

Jeremy steering us away from Ensenada de la Herradura

The next day the winds were much quieter as we motorsailed along the Spanish Mediterranean coast. We were able to anchor for the night in Ensenada de la Herradura. I snorkelled for the first time this trip.

 

Leaving Ibiza behind

Our strategy was to keep inshore as much as possible to keep out of the west going current. We continued motoring in light winds to Adra. As we approached, a steep swell met us with breaking waves near the harbour entrance. Once inside we had to make a 90 degree turn into the marina and all was quiet and calm. Very quiet. The office was closed, but we tried telephoning and using VHF09. A man answered in Spanish. Jeremy used English with a few Spanish words and we found out we had to moor on Pier 5. No-one was coming to help. Eventually, we tied up stern to and picked up a mooring for the bow. We paid our marina fees and went to a shop called Consum. Amongst our provisions, we bought Crunchy Nut Cornflakes, the first time we’d seen them since leaving the UK.

 

Late evening with Mallorca in the distance

Now, we had a choice to make. We could continue along the Spanish coast or we could leave Adra and sail directly to Ibiza. We checked the weather forecast and decided on Ibiza. This would mean two nights at sea. There was enough wind to sail with twin headsails for a while, but this died down overnight and we motored. Jeremy called me up out of bed at 0400 as something had gone round the prop and nearly stopped the engine. He needed to go overboard to check. Whatever it was, had dropped off by itself.

Puerto Soller, Mallorca

As the calm weather was continuing, we agreed after some discussion, to continue on to Mallorca and not stop in Ibiza. We motorsailed past Ibiza mid-morning on Tuesday 16^th June just as the fast tourist catamarans and motor boats were leaving the island to take hoards of people to various beaches. Then all was quiet again as we crossed the Canal de Mallorca. I did not want to spend a third night at sea, so we headed for Puerto Soller on Mallorca’s west coast. Moorings and marina berths can cost over 100 euros per night in high season. Anchoring is free. Puerto Soller is a large bay. Part of it contains a marina and there are many moorings but there should still be some space to anchor. The only downside was that it would be three o’clock in the morning when we arrived and we would have to anchor in the dark.

 

Sunset in Puerto Soller, Mallorca

I was on the bow with a spotlight while Jeremy gilled around trying to decide which of the many yachts and catamarans were on anchor or moorings. It took a while to find a spot and even after anchoring, we decided to put an angel (heavy weight) on the chain, to keep us away from the nearest boat. We slept well. Sal Darago turned with all the other boats and we were not disturbed.

 

The dramatic NW cliffs, Mallorca

We had been in contact with our friends, Andy and Moira, since leaving the UK. They were flying out to their apartment in Menorca and we wanted to meet up with them if possible. Consequently, we tried to book moorings in Menorca, through IB Ports, said to be the cheapest operators of moorings. We spent most of the next morning on their website, only to be told they had no available moorings in Menorca for the next 4 days. We turned to our cruising guide and looked for anchorages. It was likely we would find a space in Cala del Amorrado on Menorca’s west coast. We emailed Andy and asked if he could find us affordable moorings in Mahon.

 

Cala del Amorrado, Menorca

We weighed anchor at 0730 on Thursday 18^th June and left Soller. It was 56 miles to Cala del Amorrado in Menorca and there was little wind until we reached the NW corner of Mallorca with it’s dramatic cliffs. The wind strengthened dead on the nose and the sea was lumpy until the late afternoon. At last low-lying Menorca came into view and we anchored safely in a lovely bay with sea caves to explore. Andy and Moira had arrived at their apartment and we thought we would meet them in Mahon in a day or two.

 

Andy and Moira in Cala Galdana

As it turned out, they weren’t in Mahon. They were in Cala Galdana on the south coast. We’d meet them there. We’d been heading north when we got a call from Andy. We turned around, sailed nicely on the west coast, then hit the full force of the easterly wind as we turned along the south coast. We anchored in the entrance to Cala Galdana at 1515. It had been a rough passage. Andy met us half an hour later at the dinghy slipway. We walked up a steep hill to the apartment and down lots of steps. Moira joined us and soon we were sitting on their terrace drinking beer and exchanging our news.

 

Kathy in Cala Galdana 

Andy and Moira were very kind to us, giving us the run of their apartment including using their washing machine (we had three loads) their swimming pool and their shower. Thanks guys! We all went out for dinner together the next two nights and then we were off to Mahon.

 

The Naval Hospital on Isla del Rei

Andy arranged a mooring for us with the same company he uses for his own sailing boat. The prices were reasonable and we had a choice of two marinas. We chose Marina del Rei, a floating island of pontoons near Isla del Rei. Moira had lots to do in Carla Galdana, once she and Andy had replaced the tyre that blew out on their car. Andy had a day with us on Sal Darago. We had a leisurely motor to Cala Es Grau, where we had lunch, followed by a slow sail under genoa back to Mahon.

 

Jeremy relaxing on Isla del Rei

The week passed quickly. Andy and Moira flew back to the UK. Jeremy went up the mast using our canvas mast steps and replaced our wind instrument. It was hot work, but would be good to know the speed and direction of the wind once more. The next day, Friday 26^th June, we set sail for Castelsardo in northern Sardinia.

Marina del Rei, Mahon

 

Camarinas, Atlantic Spain to Gibraltar

 We left lovely Camarinas on Thursday 28^th May for the 68 mile passage to Baiona. The wind looked perfect on the forecast but there was not enough to sail until 1300hrs. We put two poles up and flew twin headsails all the way to Baiona. We decided to anchor for the night off the beach at Panjon, which is just across the bay from Baiona.

The Pinter in Baiona, Spain

The next day we contacted Baiona Marina to book a berth for one night. They no longer had a fuel berth, so we took on diesel at Monte Real Club de Latas de Baiona nearby. A famous person had been here before us and his ship, The Pinter, was tied up nearby. We returned to Baiona Marina and tied to their long pontoon for the night. We were surprised that there was no security. There were no gates requiring keys or codes for berth holders and the toilets and showers were always open.

 

Torn sacrificial strip

Jeremy had researched bicycle shops, so we walked along to one that happened to be owned by an English speaking Belgian, who was also a sailor. He didn’t usually have parts but he did have a sprocket somewhere. He found it and amazingly, it was the right size for our anchor windlass. Back on Sal Darago, Jeremy took the anchor windlass apart again and fitted the new sprocket. Would it work this time? We wouldn’t know until we anchored. We provisioned and prepared Sal Darago for our next passage, which would be two nights at sea, and would take us to Cascais in Portugal.

I remembered in the morning that we needed to mend the tears in the sacrificial strip on the genoa. For non-sailors, this is a long strip of usually different coloured cloth sewn along the long edge of the genoa. When the sail is furled, this sacrificial strip protects the sail from sunlight and prolongs the life of the genoa. Ours needs replacing soon. In the meantime, Jeremy was able to stick spinnaker tape over the tears. Fortunately, there was little wind, so we were able to do this.

 

Passing Cabo Sao Vicente, Portugal, in rough seas

We left Baiona at 0900hrs. By lunchtime we had two poles up and we were flying twin headsails. The northern Portugese Trade winds were helping us and we had current in our favour. The wind was cold even when it was sunny. The lumpy sea became a noticeable swell and there were a few breaking waves. At night, we had to watch out for fishing vessels as we passed Aveiro in Portugal. Towards the end of the second day the conditions were good. There were no strong wind warnings. We were near enough to mainland Portugal as we passed Berlenga Island to pick up a forecast from Windy on our phones. If we stopped at Cascais, we could be stuck there for a while as strong winds were coming. If we continued, we should be round Cabo Sao Vicente before they arrived. This was confirmed by a local forecast on Navtex, our weather receiver on board, which said “N/NW 5-6. Visibility good to moderate. NW waves 1.5m to ?”We were left guessing how big the waves were going to be.

We decided to continue and spend a third night at sea. It all started well until I had to make a course change at 0200. The small genoa I was flying suddenly backed and our wind pilot, Hydrovane, could not steer us back on course. I hand steered and tried to sail the course. I needed to furl the genoa completely but I couldn’t leave the helm. I called Jeremy up from his bed. This was too much for me to handle in the middle of the night. Later, on his watch, Jeremy took down the No.2 jib and steered by reefed genoa alone.

Alice and Zofia trying new dishes

By 0800 we had 17-24 knots of wind behind and breaking waves. We broached. I furled the genoa more and took Stugeron. The barometer fell 4hps. Sal Darago continued surfing, swinging and rolling in the boisterous sea. Fishing trawlers were out in these awful conditions. The sun shone and the sky was blue, which seemed odd. As we approached Cabo Sao Vicente, the wind eased but the sea continued to be big and lively. We tied our companionway boards in place. I went down below to steer by auotopilot, Neco, as Jeremy had started the engine. Amazingly, there was a motor catamaran coming towards us steering into the wind! We steered to starboard and passed safely.

 

Alice

Cabo Sao Vicente was impressive with its high cliffs and lighthouse. We altered course for Sagres Bay. We had one more point to go round. Henry the Navigator had his “school” on top. We could see the remains. At 2100 Spanish time, we dropped the anchor in Sagres Bay. It was still windy but it was calm and we were safe. The following morning the anchor windlass with it’s new sprocket lifted the anchor. Hurrah!

 

Kathy, Alice, Zofia and Jeremy at Chipiona

After a good night’s sleep were set off for Portimao at 0800. It was a short trip of only 18 miles and we were there by lunchtime, having sailed with 2 reefs in the mainsail and a small genoa on a beam reach (said to be the fastest point of sail.) As usual, we checked in, found somewhere for lunch, shopped at a supermarket and had showers back at the marina. We couldn’t do our laundry as the facility was closed at 1830.

 

Alice and Zofia

Our next destination along the beautiful Algarve coast was Faro, 34 miles away. The winds were generally light, so we motorsailed. We anchored in a tidal lagoon behind Ilha da Culatra for the night. Faro was about 5 miles away. On checking the engine, Jeremy was shocked to find oil had sprayed all over one side. He cleaned it up but it was a mystery as to where it had come from and why it had happened. This anchorage was our last destination in Portugal.

 

Approaching Gibraltar

At 0605 on Thursday 4^th June, we prepared to leave Faro. We had a long day ahead of us. It was 67 miles to Chipiona in Spain. We had arranged to meet out great niece, Alice, who was studying at the University of Seville, and her friend, Zofia, the following day. The winds were variable in strength so we were sometimes motoring and sometimes sailing. There seemed to be ships everywhere. I passed five drifting or at anchor, another crossed our bow and another passed close to starboard. The swell increased as we approached the harbour making it challenging to take down the mainsail. It was a relief to enter the harbour and tie to the fuel dock behind the Guardia Civilia. They were not looking forward to going out in the rough seas we had just encountered.

 

Passing ships in Gibraltar Bay

The next day we moved to a berth. I had a shower and did our laundry while Jeremy walked to the nearest supermarket for provisions. Alice and Zofia arrived about noon. Alice is now a fluent Spanish speaker, which was very useful at lunchtime interpreting the menu! We had a tapas lunch and tried new dishes such as fish eggs and fried cuttle fish. Afterwards, we walked along the beach and promenade to a lighthouse and on through the town to the bus station. We were sad to say goodbye after we’d had such a lovely time chatting, eating and walking.

Our next destination was Barbate. We were now close to the orca danger area, where most attacks and sightings have been recorded on the www.orcas.pt website. The advice was to keep in water no deeper than 20 metres if it was safe to do so. We followed the advice. Sometimes we came across tuna nets stretching out from the shore for as much as 5 miles. We had no choice but to follow the net round before returning to shallower water. We did not see any orcas although Jeremy was close to having a heart attack when he saw a pod of dolphins! He also heard a Mayday call on the VHF radio. A yacht was under attack by orcas. We later learned that the boat was not damaged and the couple on board were all right. They had been further out to sea and coming from the opposite direction. We spent two nights at Barbate to allow adverse winds to ease down.

Jeremy and Kathy on the Rock

 On Monday 8^th June, we set sail for Gibratar, avoiding tuna nets and the tidal race off Tarifa. We had booked a berth at Queensway Quay Marina 24 hours before our arrival, as advised in our cruising guide. The Rock of Gibraltar is impressive and dominates the landscape. We dared not look for too long as the large bay was busier than the Solent in the UK with all kind of vessels, the scariest being fast passenger catamarans. We managed to avoid moving ships, anchored ships and a massive bunkering barge. We took down our sails in the bouncing wake of a fast ferry. Peace returned as we called Queensway Quay Marina and followed their clear directions to our pre-booked berth, where a friendly member of staff took our shore lines and made sure we were secure. Berthing was stern or bows to a pontoon. We chose to be stern to.

 

Gibraltar from the Rock

We spent 3 nights in Gibraltar, speaking English, paying in GB pounds and feeling very much at home, except for the 28-32C daytime temperature.

Audierne, France to Camarina, Northwest Spain

The damaged anchor on the bow

 Were we able to fix the anchor windlass in Audierne? The short answer is partially. The marina manager and local bike shops were very helpful, but neither had the right size of sprocket (cog) to replace our broken one. The local blacksmith was on holiday and the bike shops did not have a large enough wrench to remove a metal collar from the inner workings of the windlass. We were advised to try Stratimer, a local boatyard after the next day.

Birthday tea on Sal Darago

We were able to celebrate my birthday with lunch at Kantiner. Their specialism was Moules Frites. There were only 5 tables in the intimate restaurant and the food was cooked on arrival. It was lovely to relax for a while between supermarket shopping in the morning and doing the laundry in the afternoon.

 

Damaged tip of anchor

We walked to Stratimer the day after the public holiday. It was closed. We were quite close to the fishing quay, so went there to ask if any engineers were around. It was very quiet. A man left his car engine running and went up ladders to his boat in the yard opposite. When he came down Jeremy showed him the part and asked for advice. Good things happen sometimes! The man was an engineer. He had a workshop nearby. He could remove the metal collar. He was closed but he would help us anyway. He took us in his car to his workshop, produced a metre long wrench and removed the offending part. He refused payment! We don’t even know his name but we appreciate his kindness to us.

 

Approaching Vieux Port

Later, Jeremy made a temporary repair of the anchor windlass, using and undersized sprocket form the bike shop. The next day, Saturday 16^th May, we left Audierne and sailed overnight to La Rochelle, tying up at Vieux Port in the centre of the town. It was a passage of 168 miles, with light to moderate winds backing from SW to NNW.

 

Botanical garden, La Rochelle

We spent three nights in La Rochelle. Mostly, we did the usual things: shopping, laundry, showers, catching up on sleep. We did spend one day in the rain walking a historical route through the old town. Whilst sheltering under a tree in a botanical garden we met a couple from Newton-le-Willows, a town close to Wrightington in Lancashire, where we used to live. Small world! Our granddaughter, Ellie, became a teenager.

 

Old Town Hall. Henry IV is in the turret

We left La Rochelle in light winds that soon became 14 knots on the nose. Changing course made little difference as the swell was high and the motion uncomfortable. I took a Stugeron and asked Jeremy to cook lunch. Gradually, the wind eased, the sun came out and the motion of the boat improved as we left the continental shelf behind. We were at sea for two nights. The wind was generally light, starting with westerlies, swinging to easterlies and ending with westerlies as we approached Gijon in Northern Spain. One of these swings took place within minutes on my watch, jamming the preventer line and breaking a block. We had travelled 229 miles and crossed the Bay of Biscay.

 

Lantern Tower, La Rochelle

Checking in at the marina in Gijon was straightforward. The usual ship’s papers were required, our passports and a copy of our boat insurance. The visitors’ section of the marina was closed but a berth was available in another part of the marina. We filled up with diesel at the fuel berth. The office, showers and toilets were a 10-15 minute walk away around the harbour. We were not prepared for the heat on arrival. Soon we were wearing shorts and sandals, finding fans to cool Sal Darago and putting up insect nets. It was 36C, a big change from 14C in La Rochelle. The next day it was 10 degrees cooler.

 

The cathedral at La Rochelle

We stayed in Gijon for two nights, Friday and Saturday 22^nd and 23^rd May. Each evening, it seemed that the whole town gathered on the quayside, eating, drinking and chatting. This did not disturb us on the Friday and all was quiet by 10pm. Saturday’s gathering turned into a party, with loud communal singing. This went on until 6am! While we were in Gijon, Jeremy bought a Spanish SIM card. We had pleasant lunch at Meson Santo, bought provisions for our next passage and filled up with water.

 

Guess where?

As we prepared to leave Gijon, we sang Happy Birthday to our sister-in-law, Eileen. We expected a downwind, overnight coastal sail in easterly winds to either La Coruna or Laxe. We fixed our inner forestay in place, lashed the No2 jib to the guard rail and put downhaul lines in place ready for two spinnaker poles. We would sail with twin headsails and Hydrovane would steer. Well, the weather doesn’t always do as predicted. We left Gijon in fog with about half a mile of visibility out at sea and light NNW winds! We moved about a mile out to sea and found light easterlies. Wind speeds were variable from 0-13 knots. The genoa was let out and furled so many times we lost count. Just before midnight, Jeremy took down both poles and tied up the No2 jib. We motored.

 

Sal Darago at Gijon

We decided to continue to Laxe before southerly winds arrived. We needed northerlies for Atlantic Spain. The moderate wind turned SW as we approached Punta del Rocundo. Within minutes Atlantic fog rolled in, the sea changed colour and became choppy, making our last, few miles uncomfortable and cold. We were happy to drop the anchor off the lovely, curved beach in Laxe. A Dutch catamaran called Hermit was anchored nearby.

Passing Cabo Villano

Weighing anchor this morning, 26^th May, Jeremy found the new sprocket in the anchor windlass was not big enough to be effective. 

 

Catamaran and beach at Laxe

He pulled the anchor up by hand and we motored 20 miles to Ria Camarinas and anchored off the harbour. There are three other yachts on anchor. Two of them are British and one is German. We be expect to be here for two nights, before a northerly wind wafts us to Bayona.

Anchored off Camarinas

 

Sailing Again

 River Deben, Suffolk, UK to Audierne, France

Hello again readers of this blog. Jeremy and I are on the water again in our Westerly Solway, Sal Darago. Here’s a quick overview of the winter months of 2026.

Norwich Cathedral

In January, we had our annual meet up with Graham and Val. This time we met at Norwich Cathedral, which we explored, followed by a long, catch-up lunch in a nearby pub.

Our local river, the Deben flooded in February, making country walks impassable. Jeremy and I gave a talk to the Westerly Owners’ Association East Coast Group. We showed slides and videos about our trip back from Australia in 2022-2023. Jeremy became one year older, Valentine’s Day was celebrated and we enjoyed days out with Emily, Ben, Ellie and Sophie. Our American granddaughter, Ramona, celebrated her 5^th birthday.

March was still cold and wet. Sal Darago was visited and some winter maintenance completed in the boatyard at Melton. Sophie reached double figures on her birthday and Nina in America, became 7 years old.

Thurnham Hall, Lancaster. Our accommodation before going to the Isle of Man

Serious work started on Sal Darago in April before we went to visit family in the Isle of Man and then on to the Isle of Mull to spend Easter with our Suffolk family. Once we were back in Suffolk, we prepared Sal Darago for launching on 27th April. Our first trip was downriver to our mooring at Ramsholt, where the wind blew at 20 knots and the boat heeled on her mooring!

On holiday in Mull

On Friday 1^st May, we left our house in the care of our daughter and the neighbours. Sal Darago was to be our home again. That evening, Jeremy replaced the head of the log. There’s always something that doesn’t work! The next day, we met Em, Ben and the girls at the Ramsholt Arms for lunch and spent the afternoon relaxing on the beach in the sunshine. On Sunday 3^rd May we left the River Deben and motorsailed for two and a half hours to the River Orwell. We anchored for the night at Stone Heaps off Shotley. The next day Jeremy weighed anchor at 0500 hours for our passage to Ramsgate in Kent. The navigation lights didn’t work (they worked well when tested previously in the boatyard) and triggered the circuit breaker. Otherwise all went well. The cooking gas conveniently ran out later when we were berthed in Ramsgate Marina.

Sunset on the River Deben

Tuesday 5^th May saw us leaving Ramsgate for a short passage to Dover. There was a smell of gas outside on the deck. The regulator to the gas bottle was leaking. Jeremy changed the regulator. Then there was a smell of petrol. The tank in the dinghy’s outboard engine was leaking. This took a bit longer to fix. As we had arrived in Dover in the morning, I suggested a walk to the Western Heights described as “easy.” Well it would be if you drove to the car park and walked along the white, cliff top but not if you walked from sea level as we did!

Kathy on the Western Heights above Dover

Our next port of call was Eastbourne, where we sailed for three hours in a fresh ENE wind. The rest of the passage was a motorsail as the wind eased. We locked in during the afternoon, topped up with diesel and fresh water, provisioned at Asda and ate out at the Harvester pub.

From Eastbourne, we motorsailed in light winds to Chichester Harbour, anchoring for the night at East Head, off a spit of land called Ella Nore. It was raining when Jeremy called Chichester Harbour at 8.15 the next morning. We could tie to their waiting pontoon for 4 hours and pay for a short stay. This would enable us to go to Force 4 Marine for a new Nasa wind speed and direction indicator. We were advised to wait until 10.30am before motoring up the channel, as the it was close to low water for the tide. We decided to try our luck at 8.30 and arrived at the waiting pontoon at 9.40, only touching the soft, muddy bottom once.

Force 4 Marine kept their last wind instrument for us. We bought it and quite a few other items as sailors do when visiting a chandlery. Our rucksacks were bulging as we boarded a bus back to the marina. After lunch, we left for the Solent anchoring for the night at Newton River on the Isle of Wight. We informed UK Border Force of our intention to leave the UK the next day. Then we informed French Border Force of our intention to arrive. This was done online. We attached a copy to an email and sent it to Chantereyne Marina in Cherbourg.

We’d had a good run with mainly moderate wind in the right direction. The forecast warned us of a change to come “later”- easterly winds gusting to force 7 – i.e. a near gale. Jeremy was confident we would make it to Cherbourg in plenty of time. I wasn’t so sure. As it happened he was right, but it was very worrying hearing both Solent Coastguard and the French equivalent, broadcasting strong winds and a near gale all the way across to France. I took Stugeron to be on the safe side. At 1810 on Saturday 9^th May, we tied up to the visitors’ pontoon in Chantereyne Marina, Cherbourg Harbour. The strong winds arrived in the night and continued throughout Sunday, moderating by Monday morning.

Checking in at the marina was easy. No passports were requested, no need to see the police, every marina had their own method of checking in, we were told. We stayed for two nights.

On Monday 11^th May the wind was still blowing, but not as hard. We went to the fuel berth first and filled up with diesel. Then we left the massive harbour at Cherbourg and caught the fast moving tide around Cape Hague followed by the Alderney Race. The sea was rough at first, then calmer as we went between Guernsey and Jersey on our way to the Chenal de Four. This was our first overnight sail of this trip and the winds were largely fresh from the N or NW. Jeremy became convinced there was something on the propeller, so we hove to, slowing down dramatically, and he went over the stern wearing a snorkel mask. He pulled a large circle of seaweed and fishing twine from the prop.

Anse Ste Evette

 By sunrise the winds were calmer and the sea was more comfortable. Unfortunately, the preventer line, which prevents the mainsail and boom blowing hard across the stern when downwind sailing, caught under a solar panel on our bimini and ripped the tape loop off that holds the solar panel in place. Another sewing job for Jeremy, pushing a needle and thread through several layers of canvas. At 11am we anchored off Porsmageur to wait for the tide to take us through the Canal de Four. This was a recommended anchorage in our cruising guide. The bay was sheltered with a sandy bottom and a fair number of small boat moorings inshore. The anchor dragged straight away. Then it held but the bottom felt more like rock than sand.

Jeremy behind a wind break taking the anchor windlass apart

 We enjoyed our four hour stop. We had lunch and caught up on some sleep until it was time to go. The anchor was stuck fast. In trying to free it, the anchor windlass broke. The anchor came free and Jeremy hauled it on deck by hand. We continued our journey, passing through the Canal de Four, which is the inshore passage between the island of Ushant and the French coast, and the Raz de Seine in one strong and fast moving tide. We anchored for the night in Anse St Evette. Jeremy started working on the broken anchor windlass. After much hammering and brute force, he took it apart and brought it into the cockpit in pieces.

Audierne Marina. Can you spot Sal Darago?

 

 There was much discussion the next day, but eventually it was decided to go up the nearby river to Audienne and berth in the marina. The wind was gusty but Jeremy managed to haul the anchor up manually between gusts. We tied up in the marina and learnt it was a public holiday for Ascension Day the following day. All workshops would be closed. To find out if the anchor windlass could be fixed you’ll have to wait for the next blog.

Kathy's birthday lunch - Moules Frites

 

Christmas Greetings

 The highlight of the year for us was the celebration of our Golden Wedding Anniversary. Jeremy was going to surprise me by revisiting our honeymoon cottage of 50 years ago in Anglesey. We couldn’t find it, so we went for the next best thing and booked Glanrhyd Cottage, Anglesey, LL71 7BG, through Airbnb. We stayed for 4 nights, using the cottage as a base for exploring the countryside. We enjoyed a romantic dinner for two at Lastra Farm Hotel on our special day, 29^th March.

Glanrhyd Cottage, Angelsey

 Our second celebration took place on 19^th July. We hired our village hall and The Duck, the pub next door, for a daytime BBQ and party. Thank you to all our family and friends who came to celebrate with us. We had a great day in spite of the dull, grey weather. It was actually a double celebration. Our son, Simon, daughter-in-law, Erin and grandchildren, Nina and Ramona came over from California to be with us. It was the first time the family had travelled to the UK and 10 years since Simon and Erin had gone to live in the USA. The day went well until it was time for the speeches in the afternoon. Nina fell off the zip line platform in the recreation ground and broke her arm just above her elbow. Simon took her to Ipswich Hospital where she was kept in for 2 nights. A plaster cast was put on her arm under surgery and would remain there for the rest of their time in the UK. (As non-residents, they were charge over £6,250 for this).

Golden Wedding Anniversary cake

 As they say in the theatre, “the show must go on,” and so it did with a memorable dramatic presentation by “best man” Andy and Moira bringing in Jeremy and me as characters in our own story! Thank you Andy and Moira. It was a lovely finale to our special day.

And now for the rest of the year. We flew back home from San Francisco on January 14^th. We’d been in California and Mexico for 5 weeks. We borrowed Simon’s Pontiac Vibe and drove 3,000+ miles to Baja California Sud and back. Simon and family flew to San Jose near Cabo St Lucas, hired a car and we met at Santiago for lunch, checking into Hotel Julio later for two nights. We visited hot springs one day and walked to Canon de la Zorro Waterfall the second day. Both places were off road. Only one shop was open on Christmas Eve, so we shared cold tortillas and cheese for supper. Santa came on Christmas morning. The girls were delighted with their presents. Then we drove to La Paz for 3 nights staying at a lovely villa type house with its own, small swimming pool. Next, we drove to a beach house at Los Ceritos, on the Pacific Ocean coast. The family had been there before. The surf was up so Simon and Erin were soon out surfing and the girls were loving the waves in the shallows.

Kathy, Ramona, Jeremy and Simon outside Hotel California

 Our return journey followed the Pacific Highway as much as possible, avoiding as many Mexican potholes as we could (we hit hundreds!). We arrived back at Simon and Erin’s house on 9^th January and spent the weekend with them before flying back to the UK exhausted. We learned later that the Pontiac Vibe needed “some” suspension repairs. Simon scrapped it and bought a Nissan Leaf electric car.

Commodore's Clock

 Later in January, we attended the Westerly Owners Association AGM where we were presented with the Commodore’s Clock for “Services to the Westerly Owners Association”. We were surprised and honoured.

In February we gave a talk to Woodbridge Cruising Club about our ocean travels and in return they gave us a year’s free membership. We collected a new mainsail for Sal Darago from Jeckells Sails in Norfolk. Then we met up with our friends, Graham and Val for a catch up and enjoyed sharing our news over lunch at Fizz and Fromage.

February talk to Woodbridge Cruising Club

 Easter was spent in Mull; the kitchen flooring was replaced with a new vinyl. The weather was exceptionally good and we enjoyed several walks and a visit to Iona. 

Back row: Emily, Ramona, Ellie, Sophie, Nina, Erin. Front row: Jeremy, Kathy, Simon, Ben 

  In April, maintenance on Sal Darago continued in earnest and she was launched into the River Deben at the end of the month. This was just in time for a surprise visit of our son, Simon, over the early May Bank Holiday weekend.  We took him to Sal Darago at Ramsholt and motored along the River Deben to The Rocks. Emily and Ben joined us in their boat, Sea Rose. The grandchildren were away at a scout camp, so we had an adult BBQ on board Sal Darago. We had intended to go ashore to the beach, but the strong, northerly, onshore wind soon deterred us.

Emily, Jeremy, Simon and Kathy on Sal Darago

 We finalised the arrangements for a cruise in company to Holland and Belgium organised by the Westerly Owners Association East Coast Group (WOA ECG). We offered a berth to fellow member, Sarah and sailed to the River Orwell at the end of May to collect her. The weather was predicted to increase to possible gale force over the next few days, so we took the opportunity to cross the North Sea before this weather system arrived. This is where we went: Belgium – Blankenberge; Brugge; Holland – Vlissingen; Sint Annaland; Willemstaad; Dordrecht; De Heen; Zierikzee; Burghamstede; Yerseke; Haringvreter Meer; Middleburgh.

Westerly rally in Dordrecht

  We were looking forward to attending our friends’ Golden Wedding Anniversary party at the end of August. Cathy and Tony live in Wiltshire, only one and a half hours drive from Poole in Dorset, so we decided to sail to Poole and hire a car. At the party, in spite of torrential rain, everyone enjoyed themselves catching up, eating, drinking and celebrating. Thank you, Cathy and Tony. 

Visit to Kinderdijk Unesco World Heritage site in The Netherlands

 We enjoyed the sailing as well, although we’re still shocked at the marina prices on the south coast. We had stops in the following places: Ramsgate (we had to replace all three boat batteries here); Dover (we spent a day at Dover Castle on our way back. This was free as we were now members of English Heritage); Eastbourne; Chichester Harbour; Poole Harbour (spent a day walking round National Trust Brownsea Island); Weymouth; Lulworth Cove; Worbarrow Bay (here we walked to Tyneham, the village requisitioned before D-day in WW2 and never returned!); Chapman’s Pool; Westbury White Horse; Stonehenge (joined English Heritage here.); Studland Bay and Stone Heaps on the River Orwell.

Jeremy leaving Dover

 Sal Darago was hauled out for the winter at the end of September at Melton Boatyard. I ended the sailing season by falling on the concrete near the travel lift as we left Sal Darago. After five and a half hours in A&E, I was discharged with two dressings on my face and no fractures. I had to be supervised at home for the next 48 hours in case of delayed concussion. When the bruising came out a few days later, I looked like I’d been in the boxing ring! Fortunately, I am now fully recovered.

Jeremy and Kathy at Lulworth Cove, Dorset

 The insurers requested a survey. There were only three relatively minor things to replace, so we were very pleased. These were: the heads valve was seized; the Surveyor couldn’t move it. Jeremy did move it but serviced it anyway; the galley sink outlet cock had external corrosion; Jeremy replaced it. The flexible gas pipe or pipes showed signs of surface degradation. Jeremy replaced the gas box to deck flexible pipe and the armoured flexible pipe to the cooker.

Sal Darago hauled out for winter

 Last month, we spent two and a half weeks in the cottage in Mull. On the way, we viewed a three year old Ford Focus Vignale Estate, had a test drive and agreed a price. We enjoyed walking on Mull and catching up with friends and neighbours, particularly John and Eilidh. On our way home, we detoured to the South Lakes, paid for the car and drove both cars back to Suffolk, calling at Ritchie and Catherine’s house near Doncaster for lunch.

Waiting for A&E

 This year, leading up to Christmas Day, we’ll be spending three nights with Em, Ben, Ellie and Sophie. After opening presents on Christmas morning, Jeremy and I will return to our house and the others will go to Ben’s brother’s.

Sea Rose and Sal Darago

 We hope to sail to the Mediterranean next year. If we do, there will be more blogs.

We wish everyone a very happy Christmas and a healthy New Year.