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| The damaged anchor on the bow |
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| Birthday tea on Sal Darago |
We were able to celebrate my birthday with lunch at Kantiner. Their specialism was Moules Frites. There were only 5 tables in the intimate restaurant and the food was cooked on arrival. It was lovely to relax for a while between supermarket shopping in the morning and doing the laundry in the afternoon.
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| Damaged tip of anchor |
We walked to Stratimer the day after the public holiday. It was closed. We were quite close to the fishing quay, so went there to ask if any engineers were around. It was very quiet. A man left his car engine running and went up ladders to his boat in the yard opposite. When he came down Jeremy showed him the part and asked for advice. Good things happen sometimes! The man was an engineer. He had a workshop nearby. He could remove the metal collar. He was closed but he would help us anyway. He took us in his car to his workshop, produced a metre long wrench and removed the offending part. He refused payment! We don’t even know his name but we appreciate his kindness to us.
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| Approaching Vieux Port |
Later, Jeremy made a temporary repair of the anchor windlass, using and undersized sprocket form the bike shop. The next day, Saturday 16th May, we left Audierne and sailed overnight to La Rochelle, tying up at Vieux Port in the centre of the town. It was a passage of 168 miles, with light to moderate winds backing from SW to NNW.
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| Botanical garden, La Rochelle |
We spent three nights in La Rochelle. Mostly, we did the usual things: shopping, laundry, showers, catching up on sleep. We did spend one day in the rain walking a historical route through the old town. Whilst sheltering under a tree in a botanical garden we met a couple from Newton-le-Willows, a town close to Wrightington in Lancashire, where we used to live. Small world! Our granddaughter, Ellie, became a teenager.
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| Old Town Hall. Henry IV is in the turret |
We left La Rochelle in light winds that soon became 14 knots on the nose. Changing course made little difference as the swell was high and the motion uncomfortable. I took a Stugeron and asked Jeremy to cook lunch. Gradually, the wind eased, the sun came out and the motion of the boat improved as we left the continental shelf behind. We were at sea for two nights. The wind was generally light, starting with westerlies, swinging to easterlies and ending with westerlies as we approached Gijon in Northern Spain. One of these swings took place within minutes on my watch, jamming the preventer line and breaking a block. We had travelled 229 miles and crossed the Bay of Biscay.
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| Lantern Tower, La Rochelle |
Checking in at the marina in Gijon was straightforward. The usual ship’s papers were required, our passports and a copy of our boat insurance. The visitors’ section of the marina was closed but a berth was available in another part of the marina. We filled up with diesel at the fuel berth. The office, showers and toilets were a 10-15 minute walk away around the harbour. We were not prepared for the heat on arrival. Soon we were wearing shorts and sandals, finding fans to cool Sal Darago and putting up insect nets. It was 36C, a big change from 14C in La Rochelle. The next day it was 10 degrees cooler.
We
stayed in Gijon for two nights, Friday and Saturday 22nd
and 23rd May. Each evening, it seemed that the whole town
gathered on the quayside, eating, drinking and chatting. This did not
disturb us on the Friday and all was quiet by 10pm. Saturday’s
gathering turned into a party, with loud communal singing. This went
on until 6am! While we were in Gijon, Jeremy bought a Spanish SIM
card. We had pleasant lunch at Meson Santo, bought provisions for our
next passage and filled up with water.
The cathedral at La Rochelle
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| Guess where? |
As we prepared to leave Gijon, we sang Happy Birthday to our sister-in-law, Eileen. We expected a downwind, overnight coastal sail in easterly winds to either La Coruna or Laxe. We fixed our inner forestay in place, lashed the No2 jib to the guard rail and put downhaul lines in place ready for two spinnaker poles. We would sail with twin headsails and Hydrovane would steer. Well, the weather doesn’t always do as predicted. We left Gijon in fog with about half a mile of visibility out at sea and light NNW winds! We moved about a mile out to sea and found light easterlies. Wind speeds were variable from 0-13 knots. The genoa was let out and furled so many times we lost count. Just before midnight, Jeremy took down both poles and tied up the No2 jib. We motored.
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| Sal Darago at Gijon |
We decided to continue to Laxe before southerly winds arrived. We needed northerlies for Atlantic Spain. The moderate wind turned SW as we approached Punta del Rocundo. Within minutes Atlantic fog rolled in, the sea changed colour and became choppy, making our last, few miles uncomfortable and cold. We were happy to drop the anchor off the lovely, curved beach in Laxe. A Dutch catamaran called Hermit was anchored nearby.
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| Passing Cabo Villano |
Weighing anchor this morning, 26th May, Jeremy found the new sprocket in the anchor windlass was not big enough to be effective.
He pulled the anchor up by hand and we motored 20 miles to Ria
Camarinas and anchored off the harbour. There are three other yachts
on anchor. Two of them are British and one is German. We be expect to
be here for two nights, before a northerly wind wafts us to Bayona.
Catamaran and beach at Laxe
















































