Richards Bay and Durban

The morning after our arrival at Richards Bay, South Africa, we were met by Natasha from OSASA (Ocean Sailing Association of South Africa). She told us Immigration would come to the boat. Afterwards, she would take Jeremy and two crew from Endo2 to Customs and then to a mobile phone shop to buy SIM cards. She also advised that walking the pretty coastal path to Meerensee was not safe as people were living in the trees and you were likely to be mugged. The area around Tuzi Gazi and Zululand Yacht Club was safe to wander around during the day.

There was an ATM nearby, a grocery shop and several restaurants and cafes. Boat trips were taking place all weekend and there was a party atmosphere with groups of people, friends and families celebrating birthdays and other special events at the restaurants. Loud music pounded out from the other side of Tuzi Gazi unti 4.00am on Monday morning. During the week, it was very quiet, especially as Endo2 moved to Zululand YC on Sunday. The Dutch yacht, Lucipara2, with Floris and Ivir on board arrived on Sunday morning and also moved to Zululand YC later that day. We felt a little vulnerable on our own on the main wharf, so we moved to the central wharf, away from the wide walkway used by the general public.

Drinks at RNYC, Durban

Eric, the taxi driver recommended by Natasha, picked us up on Monday morning and took us to Zululand YC to collect a Flight Plan. We had to complete the Flight Plan for our passage from Richards Bay to Durban, present it to the Police in Tuzi Gazi for approval, before returning it to Zululand YC later in the day. Eric then drove us to Meerensee, where there were two shopping centres across the road from each other. We shopped at Spar Superstore and returned to Tuzi Gazi in time to have lunch at Dros.

Durban Marina and CBD

We walked to Zululand YC in the afternoon, handed in our flight plan at the office and waited about 20 minutes, while the details were sent to the various officials electronically. The reply came back that we had been cleared to leave Richards Bay the following day.

On Tuesday 18^th October, we motored out of Tuzi Gazi. Port Control gave us permission to leave Richards Bay and we were on our way. The waves were quite big at the breakwater, but settled down as we turned on to our course for Durban. There were many ships, some moving towards the port and others anchored off or drifting, waiting for a pilot to steer them to their berths. In addition, humpback whales were blowing and breaching inshore of us; relaxation wasn’t an option!

Some healing is taking place

In the morning, we approached the ship anchorage north of Durban. It was my watch and dawn had broken, so at least I could see the many ships. I spent two hours avoiding them, with the genoa poled out and a following sea. There were so many on the AIS that it was better to watch by eye than keep checking distances on the machine. It was a relief to wake Jeremy with only two ships to go and the port of Durban just six miles away. Port Control told us to proceed to enter and we tied up to the international small boat dock at 0840 on Wednesday 19^th October.

On passage from Durban to East London

The staff at Durban Marina were very helpful. We were allocated a berth on one of the long pontoons where we met a number of friendly local boat owners. Everyone’s advice was the same: avoid walking outside of the marina and yacht club areas; if you have to cross the road, do not wear a back pack, watch or mobile phone; use a taxi to take you to and from recommended shopping malls. We took the local advice and only ventured across the road to go to the laundry, Barnacle Bill’s chandlery and the ATM and grocery shop at the petrol station.

Following sea

Both yacht clubs (Point YC and Royal Natal YC) were friendly and welcoming. Unfortunately, Point YC’s bar was temporarily closed but they had a restaurant and hot showers. RNYC welcomed us with a bottle of wine! We were given free membership of both clubs for two weeks.

Nine knots in the Agulhas current

Durban had recently experienced severe flooding. Mistakes had been made in the infrastructure and raw sewage was spilling into the harbour. It did not smell, except at low water. However, we were advised to wash our hands after handling lines and fenders.

My leg had not been healing. When we mentioned this to Mrs Naido in Durban Marina office, she strongly recommended us to see Zack in the Citi Pharmacy next to the Shoprite supermarket that we were not meant to walk to! Jeremy and I braved the 300 yard walk without incident. I was rewarded with a cream with which to dress my leg wound twice a day (much to Jeremy’s delight) and a course of penicillin. After one week, the wound seems smaller.

Distant SD on mooring at BRYC

We needed to allow two days to sail the 250nm from Durban to East London. There are no refuges on the appropriately named Wild Coast. A weather window opened up for us and we left our marina berth in Durban at 0345 on Sunday 23^rd October. Thanks to a lift from the Agulhas current (once we found it 15 miles offshore) we were able to complete the passage quite quickly arriving at Buffalo River Yacht Club, East London, at 2130 on Monday 24^th October. It was a challenge picking up and tying bow and stern to a trot mooring in the dark. We were very pleased to have arrived before a strong SW blow.

La Reunion to Richards Bay, South Africa

 

Last walk Chemin des Anglais, Reunion

We checked the weather. Our neighbours, Alain and Therese, checked the weather. We met with the crew of Endo2 and checked the weather together. It was agreed that the weather was probably as good as we were likely to get on this passage.

Last lunch at La Caz, Le Port

We walked over to the Capitainerie, paid our bill (25 euros per night) and filled in the departure forms for Customs and Immigration. We intended to leave on Tuesday 4^th October at midday.

Hydrovane steering

Monday was spent doing laundry, shopping, cooking a three day stew and preparing Sal Darago for a 12-14 day passage. Udo, Heike and Woolfgang from Endo2 decided that they would leave the same day as us.

We were up early on Tuesday, finished all the preparations and waited for Customs and Immigration to arrive, stamp our passports and clear us out. They arrived about 1100, went to Endo2 first and told us we should be flying our yellow flag so they could see us in the marina. Whoops! We always thought the yellow flag was to be flown on arrival, but we weren’t going to argue with officials. Within minutes our passports were stamped and we were free to leave.

Big following sea

We had lunch first, motored round to the fuel berth for diesel and finally left Le Port at 1338. Endo2 had their sails up and were on their way ahead of us. We were in a wind shadow for several hours with light WSW or SW winds instead of the usual SE Trades. We motorsailed south. Endo2 did likewise. It was decided to keep in touch via VHF at 0800 and 2100, as long as we were in range (15 miles). We picked up the Trade Winds just before midnight and switched the engine off.

Small genoa

We were lucky to have the moon shining every night and fairly clear skies at first. However, it was a case of engine on then engine off as the wind speeds varied from 6-12 knots. We flew twin headsails with the full genoa poled out to starboard and the no.2 jib to port. When the wind died down in the afternoon, we flew the ghoster(half spinnaker) and the genoa. Jeremy struggled to take the ghoster down when the wind increased at midnight.

Passengers not usually allowed!

As we approached the area of generally bad weather SE of Madagascar, Endo2 gave us a weather update. They were in email contact with a weather router who told them to expect wind speeds of 28knots from the NE or ENE with gusts up to 35knots for the next 24-36 hours. And so it came to pass.

The swell came first giving us a boisterous sea, then the wind. We reefed down. We made a gradual turn 150 miles south of Madagascar towards Richards Bay. It was rough for a while but very few waves broke over us. When the front passed the wind died and we had to motor again. The pattern of variable wind speeds returned. The last VHF message from Endo2 before they went out of range reported SW winds of 20 knots on Saturday morning. The advice from their router was to make Richards Bay on Friday or stay out at sea until Monday as it would be too dangerous for small craft to cross the Agulhas current. It was Wednesday afternoon and we had 327nm to go to our waypoint off Richards Bay.

Sunrise arrival at Richards Bay

We decided to go for it engine on, sails flying, swell increasing and conditions becoming scarier. The Transequatorial Current, which had always been with us, giving us an extra one to one and a half knots, turned against us; the engine cut out and Neco, our power steering device, was making alarming noises. Jeremy found a loose grub screw and it sounded as if a cog was missing from a different part. The engine was suffering from lack of diesel and eventually all was well with a new primary filter fitted. Our wind pilot, Hydrovane, steered under engine and sail for hours.

SD tied to the international dock

The SW winds came 12 hours early. The twin headsails were taken down, the mainsail was raised and reefed twice and the genoa was furled to a small triangle. It was a bumpy ride. A passing bird obviously thought so too and took refuge on our stern for four hours. Jeremy saw the cruise ship Saga Voyager on our AIS. He called them on VHF and asked about the state of the Agulhas current. They said to expect waves of 2-3metres. As we had that amount of swell anyway, we decided to continue, crossing the two mile stretch in the dark in the small hours of Saturday 15^th October.

Almost empty Tuzi Gazi

Port Control at Richards Bay could not find any evidence that we had permission to enter and suggested we remain at sea. They accepted we had permission when Jeremy told them the amount he’d paid (300 rand) and the date he paid it. We entered an almost empty Tuzi Gazi. The marina had gone. Endo2 was tied up to the centre dock; they had arrived seven hours earlier than us. We tied up on the opposite dock. It was 0640 and the sun was rising. We had completed the 1411nm in 11 days.

Lunch at Dros, Tuzi Gazi