We spent 3 nights on anchor at Funchal, Madeira. After the relatively calm first night, we paid a deposit of 10 euros to the marina for a shower key and took the bus up the mountain to the Botanical Gardens where we could obtain a permit to visit the Islas Desertas. We had to stand all the way at the back of the packed bus, hanging on as we climbed near vertical gradients and swept round narrow 90-180 degree bends at speed, with only a toot on the horn to warn any oncoming traffic or pedestrians! We got off when everybody else did, wondered where we were and followed the crowd to an entrance to the Jardim Botanico. We paid our 3 euros each, obtained our permit with little fuss and minimal paperwork and spent a pleasant few hours wandering round succulent gardens, with cacti taller than trees, walking through topiary and box formal gardens, admiring and photographing the birds in the extensive aviary and eating our picnic in the shade of many species of trees and flowering plants.
My sister, Pat, had recommended the cablecar. We took the one that went up which cost us 8 euros each. It was amazing looking down into the valley below and seeing tiny people walking along the levadas. The view of Funchal, miles below us and of the harbour was spectacular. Once at the top, we had 2 options – take the bus down for 2 euros or the cablecar for 10 each. We took the bus. It turned out to be an excellent choice. This time we had seats and if it was scary coming up it was a white knuckle ride going down! The views, once again, when you dared look were suberb.
Once safely down our day was spoilt by a wind change in the bay which put Sal Darago too close to the catamaran next to us. Then it began to rain heavily and we moved closer and closer to the cat. Eventually, we reanchored in the rain – twice. Then further excitement began as someone shouted for help with a yacht that was dragging its anchor and moving close to the shore. As Jeremy was in the dinghy he went to help immediately and 3 dinghies saved the yacht from grounding. The owner was ashore. It amazed all the rescuers to find there was no anchor when they tried pulling it up. The chain had snapped. That night we all rocked and rolled in the bay but everyone stayed put. The French owner returned and took his boat into the marina but he did invite us all aboard for drinks the next day and was eternally grateful, kissing everyone and thanking us all.
Our last night at Funchal was even more rocky and we were happy to leave for the Canary Islands even though the wind was blowing in excess of 20 knots! We were not able to visit the Islas Desertas. Sailing people will know about lee shores. We had strong winds blowing onshore into a temporary anchorage backed by sheer cliffs, so we sailed on passing the islands safely if a little too close for comfort. We had a good passage in a westerly wind – where are the north east trades?
Two days and nights later we arrived at Islas Graciosa, very close to the north end of Lanzarote. We’re in the marina now. The harbour master is on holiday, there is no water and no electricity on the berths. The showers are cold water only and the choice is between communal ones on a nearby campsite with no roof or doors or one only on the quay. To get water for the boat you have to remove the shower head and fill containers! The plus side of all this is it’s very cheap! Tomorrow we are moving to a nearby anchorage in Playa Francesca and when we feel refreshed we’ll have a look at the coasts of Lanzarote and Fuertaventura. We’re in the Canaries until December so if anyone is having a holiday here do visit – we have spare berths- except from 1-8 November when Emily and Ben are coming.
We’re back in Spanish territory so hasta luego!
Tuesday 30 September 2008
Tuesday 16 September 2008
Having spent the night in Quinta do Lorde, where the building of a new resort meant that the pile drivers, cranes and lorries were going until 2200, we decided to anchor in the nearby quiet Baia d’Abra. We left our blue Calor Gas bottle with Catia (very nice) to have it filled for Monday morning.
The Baia d’Abra was remote, but on a very popular tourist walk. Fortunately these walkers were up half a mountain and never really bothered us. The wind whistled over a saddle in the hills and we were quite often buffeted with 25 knots. This slewed us sideways onto the swell and we rolled. After rocking and rolling until 0100, Saturday, Jeremy decided to use the new flopper stoppers. By 0200 they were deployed, but careful reading of the instructions by head torch showed him that 5 flopper stoppers were needed on EACH side. As we had only bought 5 the rolling decreased, but did not stop. In the morning Jeremy took the dinghy and stern anchor(first use) and deployed it and about thirty metres of anchor line (rope). This kept Sal Darago straight and normal service was resumed.
We kept threatening to have a barbeque, but all these exertions meant that Jeremy was less than enthusiastic to land the dinghy through the surf for a damp barbeque. We had steak onboard that evening.
Following a good night’s kip, we both decided to join the walkers to see what the attraction was. Mostly, when we got halfway up the mountain, it appeared to be a view of …Sal Darago. No… it was most interesting and after an hour or so we returned to the boat, through the surf. We prepared a barbeque – those of you who have been on one from Sal Darago will know the list ;-) and set off for a small inaccessible (by land) stony beach. We swam, lit the barbeque, had a wonderful time with lizards running over our naked torsos – well Jeremy’s and watched them – the lizards fighting over the carrot skins.
The following morning we had to return to Quinta do Lorde for the gas. There was over 20 knots of wind. We buoyed the stern anchor. We recovered the bow anchor. We then recovered the stern anchor at the bows. It would not have been possible to recover it at the stern in the wind without a resuscitation unit close by. It was nearly midday. The marina had not got our gas yet, but we were to tie up and use their facilities without charge. Kathy had a shower and Jeremy tripped while carrying the stern anchor from the bows to the stern. The anchor fell through the sprayhood causing a long rip, fortunately along a seam. By the time the gas arrived Kathy and Jeremy had (together) repaired the sprayhood (one outside and one “inside” pushing the needle back and forth).
We left at 1730 and our only option for the night was Machico. In the harbour, there were two French boats at anchor, plus they had lines ashore from the stern. Jeremy decided to anchor between them. The French did not immediately realise that there was enough space between their boats, but Sal Darago was suddenly there. Kathy stayed aboard to fend off the port side French boat with which Sal Darago was clearly intent in getting more familiar, whilst Jeremy rowed ashore with a long line. Afterwards the boats lay quite cosily. The second French boat suggested we might put out a stern anchor to try to avoid any more close work with the first boat. Jeremy used the stern anchor for the second time. It was then that we noticed that there were lorries on the “beach”… see photo. They stopped at 2300 and began again at 0800.
The French boats decided that they had been in Machico long enough and at 0400, they left. They were quite noisy, but luckily Jeremy had not fouled their anchors so they left without disturbing us more than in the “normal” way when one uses an outboard on a dinghy to recover a rope 50 metres away from one’s boat. In the morning, we went shopping and then had to report to the Capitao Maritima (Harbour Master). He needed to register all our details. After that the stern anchor, the mooring line and the bow anchor needed to be recovered. We left Machico after midday and enjoyed a fast sail under genoa alone up to Funchal. (Up to 7.3 knots on the log). Here the wind died away and then came up on the nose and we motored all the way to a very pleasant, quiet marina at Calheta, not a digger in sight.
Tomorrow we return to Funchal and hopefully will avoid a predicted South wind, by anchoring in the harbour. We hope to gain a permit in Funchal for the Islas Desertas – about 20 miles south of Madeira and if the wind behaves as predicted we shall set off for the Canaries, via Islas Desertas, on Saturday.
The Baia d’Abra was remote, but on a very popular tourist walk. Fortunately these walkers were up half a mountain and never really bothered us. The wind whistled over a saddle in the hills and we were quite often buffeted with 25 knots. This slewed us sideways onto the swell and we rolled. After rocking and rolling until 0100, Saturday, Jeremy decided to use the new flopper stoppers. By 0200 they were deployed, but careful reading of the instructions by head torch showed him that 5 flopper stoppers were needed on EACH side. As we had only bought 5 the rolling decreased, but did not stop. In the morning Jeremy took the dinghy and stern anchor(first use) and deployed it and about thirty metres of anchor line (rope). This kept Sal Darago straight and normal service was resumed.
We kept threatening to have a barbeque, but all these exertions meant that Jeremy was less than enthusiastic to land the dinghy through the surf for a damp barbeque. We had steak onboard that evening.
Following a good night’s kip, we both decided to join the walkers to see what the attraction was. Mostly, when we got halfway up the mountain, it appeared to be a view of …Sal Darago. No… it was most interesting and after an hour or so we returned to the boat, through the surf. We prepared a barbeque – those of you who have been on one from Sal Darago will know the list ;-) and set off for a small inaccessible (by land) stony beach. We swam, lit the barbeque, had a wonderful time with lizards running over our naked torsos – well Jeremy’s and watched them – the lizards fighting over the carrot skins.
The following morning we had to return to Quinta do Lorde for the gas. There was over 20 knots of wind. We buoyed the stern anchor. We recovered the bow anchor. We then recovered the stern anchor at the bows. It would not have been possible to recover it at the stern in the wind without a resuscitation unit close by. It was nearly midday. The marina had not got our gas yet, but we were to tie up and use their facilities without charge. Kathy had a shower and Jeremy tripped while carrying the stern anchor from the bows to the stern. The anchor fell through the sprayhood causing a long rip, fortunately along a seam. By the time the gas arrived Kathy and Jeremy had (together) repaired the sprayhood (one outside and one “inside” pushing the needle back and forth).
We left at 1730 and our only option for the night was Machico. In the harbour, there were two French boats at anchor, plus they had lines ashore from the stern. Jeremy decided to anchor between them. The French did not immediately realise that there was enough space between their boats, but Sal Darago was suddenly there. Kathy stayed aboard to fend off the port side French boat with which Sal Darago was clearly intent in getting more familiar, whilst Jeremy rowed ashore with a long line. Afterwards the boats lay quite cosily. The second French boat suggested we might put out a stern anchor to try to avoid any more close work with the first boat. Jeremy used the stern anchor for the second time. It was then that we noticed that there were lorries on the “beach”… see photo. They stopped at 2300 and began again at 0800.
The French boats decided that they had been in Machico long enough and at 0400, they left. They were quite noisy, but luckily Jeremy had not fouled their anchors so they left without disturbing us more than in the “normal” way when one uses an outboard on a dinghy to recover a rope 50 metres away from one’s boat. In the morning, we went shopping and then had to report to the Capitao Maritima (Harbour Master). He needed to register all our details. After that the stern anchor, the mooring line and the bow anchor needed to be recovered. We left Machico after midday and enjoyed a fast sail under genoa alone up to Funchal. (Up to 7.3 knots on the log). Here the wind died away and then came up on the nose and we motored all the way to a very pleasant, quiet marina at Calheta, not a digger in sight.
Tomorrow we return to Funchal and hopefully will avoid a predicted South wind, by anchoring in the harbour. We hope to gain a permit in Funchal for the Islas Desertas – about 20 miles south of Madeira and if the wind behaves as predicted we shall set off for the Canaries, via Islas Desertas, on Saturday.
Friday 12 September 2008
Early September
Paradise Porto Santo Style
Kathy on the North of the island
Looking East Porto Santo
The Santa Maria looking very like The Black Pearl
Approaching MadeiraMadeira
We arrived in Madeira on Thursday 11 September, today as I write, and yes it is September, honest.
We had a lovely time in Porto Santo, beginning for the first time this trip to relax and feel as if we were on holiday. This is largely due to the fact that we are almost up to date as it were with our itinerary dates. We are hoping to spend about seven days in Madeira which will mean we are one day behind on the schedule.
Porto Santo was very hot even at night. It cannot be described as beautiful, yet its bare, crevassed mountains which rise startlingly from the sea do have a fascination; how have they withstood the rages of the Atlantic for the centuries?
The day we arrived I did some repairs/maintenance – on the rudder (needed lubricating), sheet winch (new sleeve needed freeing), and had a look over the engine but did not attack the drip on the diesel fuel oil filter (Em may bring me some new Banjo bolts). Not too bad after 480 nautical miles, the majority of which were on engine. We did the washing, walked to town to get supplies (nearly every day) and one night at nearly midnight, went for a romantic walk along the breakwater. It was still 72°F. After three days on the pontoons (€ 75) we moved onto a mooring in the Ex NATO harbour. It was cooler away from the pontoons, but we were nearer to a cement factory which kept churning 24/7. Also close by was a night club which started at 0200 and finished at 0600.
We met many people from various countries including a good friend of Robert Macleod’s, Mishnish, Tobermory, called John, his wife, and crew Frank and Bernie – all on a beautiful Island Packet 45 called Hound Dog IV. We sat with them on the air conditioned bus tour of the island (the bus had no roof). Here we saw that much of the building (95%) had been done in the last 10 years – no kidding. Most of the original dwellings had been demolished or subsumed and it was clear that the original way of life had been subsistence farming. Even now there were a few corrugated shacks at the side of the road in town, where natives were selling tomatoes, and two types of melons from three small boxes. The centre of town itself was very clean and also recently designed. We saw the 15 century church and next door “Columbus’ House”, now naturally a museum.
By the end of the week, we were into a routine: town in the morning, lunch, siesta, swim on the beach, shower and back to Sal Darago for an evening meal in the cockpit. It was hard work believe me. Kathy discovered that one can cook a roast in the pressure cooker which was splendid. (Where would we be without that particular wedding present?) And so after a week we decided to set sail again across the mighty ocean to Madeira. It is at least 20 miles away, but harbour to harbour more like 32 miles.
As we left we saw the “Santa Maria”, looking suspiciously like the “Black Pearl”. The seas were uneven and Kathy kept referring to the Irish Sea. About halfway between the islands, the swell came from one direction, the wind rose and we were sailing at 5 knots. This we kept up as we turned towards Quinta Do Lorde, with the wind on the nose and picking up to 20 knots. After registering and booking in, the rain started and we now have the tent over the cockpit and are listening to the wind trying to remove it. No WiFi here so who knows when this will be posted. Do post a comment, please.
We had a lovely time in Porto Santo, beginning for the first time this trip to relax and feel as if we were on holiday. This is largely due to the fact that we are almost up to date as it were with our itinerary dates. We are hoping to spend about seven days in Madeira which will mean we are one day behind on the schedule.
Porto Santo was very hot even at night. It cannot be described as beautiful, yet its bare, crevassed mountains which rise startlingly from the sea do have a fascination; how have they withstood the rages of the Atlantic for the centuries?
The day we arrived I did some repairs/maintenance – on the rudder (needed lubricating), sheet winch (new sleeve needed freeing), and had a look over the engine but did not attack the drip on the diesel fuel oil filter (Em may bring me some new Banjo bolts). Not too bad after 480 nautical miles, the majority of which were on engine. We did the washing, walked to town to get supplies (nearly every day) and one night at nearly midnight, went for a romantic walk along the breakwater. It was still 72°F. After three days on the pontoons (€ 75) we moved onto a mooring in the Ex NATO harbour. It was cooler away from the pontoons, but we were nearer to a cement factory which kept churning 24/7. Also close by was a night club which started at 0200 and finished at 0600.
We met many people from various countries including a good friend of Robert Macleod’s, Mishnish, Tobermory, called John, his wife, and crew Frank and Bernie – all on a beautiful Island Packet 45 called Hound Dog IV. We sat with them on the air conditioned bus tour of the island (the bus had no roof). Here we saw that much of the building (95%) had been done in the last 10 years – no kidding. Most of the original dwellings had been demolished or subsumed and it was clear that the original way of life had been subsistence farming. Even now there were a few corrugated shacks at the side of the road in town, where natives were selling tomatoes, and two types of melons from three small boxes. The centre of town itself was very clean and also recently designed. We saw the 15 century church and next door “Columbus’ House”, now naturally a museum.
By the end of the week, we were into a routine: town in the morning, lunch, siesta, swim on the beach, shower and back to Sal Darago for an evening meal in the cockpit. It was hard work believe me. Kathy discovered that one can cook a roast in the pressure cooker which was splendid. (Where would we be without that particular wedding present?) And so after a week we decided to set sail again across the mighty ocean to Madeira. It is at least 20 miles away, but harbour to harbour more like 32 miles.
As we left we saw the “Santa Maria”, looking suspiciously like the “Black Pearl”. The seas were uneven and Kathy kept referring to the Irish Sea. About halfway between the islands, the swell came from one direction, the wind rose and we were sailing at 5 knots. This we kept up as we turned towards Quinta Do Lorde, with the wind on the nose and picking up to 20 knots. After registering and booking in, the rain started and we now have the tent over the cockpit and are listening to the wind trying to remove it. No WiFi here so who knows when this will be posted. Do post a comment, please.
Tuesday 9 September 2008
Cascais to Porto Santo.
Fireworks at Cascais
The fog cleared as we left Cascais.
Calm, Atlantic Sunset.
Sunrise at Isla de Cima, Porto Santo.
Still here in Porto Santo!
Hi Everyone. Did you notice the deliberate error on the date of the 28 Sept. blog? I’m sure you’ve worked out that it was actually the 28th August. These things happen when you have too much sun, sightseeing etc.
We didn’t return to Lisbon but we did check the weather and decided that we should leave for Porto Santo (Madeira group of islands) on Sunday 1st Sept as there would be moderate NE winds blowing for the following 4 or 5 days. Our last two nights on anchor at Cascais were not peaceful. There were two rock concerts, one each night, held on the quayside about 400 metres away. The first group were awful – just noise – but the firework display, which was their finale, was spectacular. The second group were better and the show was mercifully half an hour shorter and once again it was followed by a fabulous firework display over the bay.
The next day, our departure day, we woke to see fog swirling in from the Atlantic. We delayed our departure until 10.30am when we could see far enough to avoid the hundreds of crab/lobster pots in the bay. It soon became apparent that something was wrong with the battery charging system. Jeremy hoped it wasn’t the alternator but he was worried when only 93% of battery power had been restored after running the engine for 8 hours. Straight away the wind was WNW but we could fly the main and the genoa. The swell was as low as we’ve seen it, the sky was blue with no clouds, the sun was shining and the ocean was a deep shade of blue. Time to blow the dust off the sextant and take some sights of the sun.
Quite quickly overnight the wind speeds dropped and the sails flapped. The Hydrovane could not steer us properly but faithful Neco autopilot could, although he does use battery power. The stars were fantastic and, although we recognised a few, there were so many constellations we did not know. We saw a number of ships the first night heading for the north/south shipping lanes just north of us and for Lisbon just east of us. We kept to our watch pattern as before when we crossed from Ireland to Spain i.e. 2 or 3 hour watches during the day and a 5 hour watch each at night. The light winds continued on Monday again from the W or WNW so the engine was on most of the time. In the afternoon, Jeremy stripped down the alternator battery manager, found nothing wrong and put it back together again. However, charging returned to normal and has been fine ever since!
Our passage continued in much the same way with periods of flat calm and glassy seas, which reflected all the stars at night. Our Navtex was not receiving any weather forecasts so Jeremy called up a passing ship on the VHF which confirmed that we should be having light to moderate N or NE winds. Still, no gales to worry about. I took more sights of the sun and even took a sight of Venus and the moon at evening twilight. Both sunrise and sunset over the open ocean were magnificent. The only scares were close shaves with ships at night. We both had to change course to avoid large vessels. In my case, I was convinced a huge cruise ship was passing safely when suddenly I realised she was too close for comfort.
At last, with the wind on our nose (SW) we motored the last 30 plus miles to Porto Santo checked in straight away with the Customs and the marina and then waited two hours for a berth. As I write this, I’m wearing my bikini and Jeremy is in his swimming trunks. We have miles of golden south west facing beach alongside us and once we’ve done all the shopping, washing, cleaning, repairs and sightseeing, we might have time to lie on it!
Adeus
We didn’t return to Lisbon but we did check the weather and decided that we should leave for Porto Santo (Madeira group of islands) on Sunday 1st Sept as there would be moderate NE winds blowing for the following 4 or 5 days. Our last two nights on anchor at Cascais were not peaceful. There were two rock concerts, one each night, held on the quayside about 400 metres away. The first group were awful – just noise – but the firework display, which was their finale, was spectacular. The second group were better and the show was mercifully half an hour shorter and once again it was followed by a fabulous firework display over the bay.
The next day, our departure day, we woke to see fog swirling in from the Atlantic. We delayed our departure until 10.30am when we could see far enough to avoid the hundreds of crab/lobster pots in the bay. It soon became apparent that something was wrong with the battery charging system. Jeremy hoped it wasn’t the alternator but he was worried when only 93% of battery power had been restored after running the engine for 8 hours. Straight away the wind was WNW but we could fly the main and the genoa. The swell was as low as we’ve seen it, the sky was blue with no clouds, the sun was shining and the ocean was a deep shade of blue. Time to blow the dust off the sextant and take some sights of the sun.
Quite quickly overnight the wind speeds dropped and the sails flapped. The Hydrovane could not steer us properly but faithful Neco autopilot could, although he does use battery power. The stars were fantastic and, although we recognised a few, there were so many constellations we did not know. We saw a number of ships the first night heading for the north/south shipping lanes just north of us and for Lisbon just east of us. We kept to our watch pattern as before when we crossed from Ireland to Spain i.e. 2 or 3 hour watches during the day and a 5 hour watch each at night. The light winds continued on Monday again from the W or WNW so the engine was on most of the time. In the afternoon, Jeremy stripped down the alternator battery manager, found nothing wrong and put it back together again. However, charging returned to normal and has been fine ever since!
Our passage continued in much the same way with periods of flat calm and glassy seas, which reflected all the stars at night. Our Navtex was not receiving any weather forecasts so Jeremy called up a passing ship on the VHF which confirmed that we should be having light to moderate N or NE winds. Still, no gales to worry about. I took more sights of the sun and even took a sight of Venus and the moon at evening twilight. Both sunrise and sunset over the open ocean were magnificent. The only scares were close shaves with ships at night. We both had to change course to avoid large vessels. In my case, I was convinced a huge cruise ship was passing safely when suddenly I realised she was too close for comfort.
At last, with the wind on our nose (SW) we motored the last 30 plus miles to Porto Santo checked in straight away with the Customs and the marina and then waited two hours for a berth. As I write this, I’m wearing my bikini and Jeremy is in his swimming trunks. We have miles of golden south west facing beach alongside us and once we’ve done all the shopping, washing, cleaning, repairs and sightseeing, we might have time to lie on it!
Adeus
Monday 8 September 2008
Porto Santo
We are now in Porto Santo, twenty miles north of Madeira. Unfortunately the municipal internet will not allow me to access my memory stick. I cannot therefore post the blog and pictures which we have prepared.
We are having a great time and Sal Darago is going well. The fridge is very thirsty for electricity. On sunny days the solar panels keep up with demand but during the night the fridge uses 45 amps which is about 15% of the batteries. If it weren't for the food, I'd turn it off as it necessitates us running the engine in harbour. Apart from that it has been hot and sunny since we left Cascais, Portugal and everyone has been very friendly, particularly the French.
Hopefully we shall find somewhere that does allow us to use the stick and you will receive "The Blog".
We are having a great time and Sal Darago is going well. The fridge is very thirsty for electricity. On sunny days the solar panels keep up with demand but during the night the fridge uses 45 amps which is about 15% of the batteries. If it weren't for the food, I'd turn it off as it necessitates us running the engine in harbour. Apart from that it has been hot and sunny since we left Cascais, Portugal and everyone has been very friendly, particularly the French.
Hopefully we shall find somewhere that does allow us to use the stick and you will receive "The Blog".
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