Cape Verde Islands

We anchored in Palmeira harbour, on the island of Sal, in the dark, at the third attempt. First, the anchor chain jammed in the locker. Then we were too close to the ship quay and finally, the anchor held firm. It was 4.35am.

Sunrise over Palmeira Harbour

Later that morning we launched the dinghy and motored ashore to a busy fishermen’s quay, where I had to climb up the wall as there were no steps. Friendly people met us and no-one asked for money. We were directed to the Policia Frontera but the officer was not there and we were to return later. We started walking towards the main town of Espargo, about 7 kilometres away. The landscape was totally barren. Dust and volcanic ash stung our legs in the wind. We flagged down an aluguer, a local minibus, and we were able to pay in euros as we had no local currency, Escudos or CVE.

The second ATM worked and we were both able to withdraw CVE. This was a relief because there were over 100 people in front of us in the queue for the bank counter. Jeremy spoke to a local man who had good English and we found out where to eat and where to buy groceries. Back at Palmeira, we checked in with Policia Maritima and our boat papers were kept until 24 hours before our departure.

Kathy at Salina

The next day we saw Policia Frontera and had our passports stamped. Policia Maritima returned our boat papers. We caught an aluguer to Espargos and Jeremy asked where we should catch a bus to Salina, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The driver said, “Stay on this bus,” which we did, getting a bit worried when we were the only passengers. We realised we’d accidentally made a private hire and there was no way we could avoid paying the fare of 1000CVE (approx. 10 euros). At Salina we walked around a volcano crater where acres of sea water were drying in massive salt pans. Some tourists float in the water, which is said to be saltier than the Dead Sea.

Catholic church at Santa Maria

From Salina we wanted to see the tourist resort of Santa Maria. There were no buses, so we hitched and were picked up within minutes by a Portugese couple who were going to the same place. After lunch and a wander round the pleasant beach resort, we caught an aluguer back to Espargo for 100CVE each, then another to Palmeira.

Porto do Tarrafel

The following day, Wednesday 8^th February, we weighed anchor at 0350, in the dark, and set sail for Sao Nicolau, 90 miles away. The sea was rough and the wind was strong. At first light, I noticed a vessel, Altair, on the AIS, which was on a collision course dead ahead. It took several VHF calls and a DSC alarm call before Altair answered and said he could not see us. Jeremy gave our position and Altair avoided us by 0.3 nautical miles. He did warn us of a ship astern of him on the same course, so Jeremy called Harpa Doris and they gave us 0.2 nautical miles clearance. We were glad it was light.

Looking down from the mountain path

The sun went down as we approached Porto do Tarrafal, Sao Nicolau. We anchored in the dark. Next morning we had to re-anchor as we were too close to another yacht and our chain was stuck on something. Three attempts later, the anchor held and we went ashore. A young “boat watcher” took us to Policia Maritima, where we checked in, causing some amusement as one of the police officers was called Spencer, like us.

Fabulous peaks behind. Getting tired now.

We caught an aluguer to the main town, Ribeira Brava, hidden in the mountains. To our surprise, two English speaking men were on the bus and we were given lots of information about the island. The scenery was completely different from Sal. Up in the mountains there was a fair amount of agriculture taking place with terraces up the hillsides. The views were spectacular as we wound and twisted our way to Ribeira Brava. We had lunch in Banana Secca eating al fresco in a shady courtyard. Feeling refreshed, we walked to Cachaco, which was only 2.5 miles, but most of it was uphill and some was almost vertical. Two worn out sailors arrived at the top and caught an aluguer back to Tarrafal, where we collapsed on SD with a couple of cervejas to celebrate.

Resting on a flat part

We were unable to retrieve our boat papers from Policia Maritma until 1500, so we had lunch ashore in a restaurant recommended by Casa Aquario.

We struggled to weigh anchor the next morning. Fortunately, the wind that rushes furiously down the mountain ravines and into the bay had died down in the small hours. Our anchor chain snubber had snapped and our chain was stuck on the stony bottom in several places. Once free, we reefed our sails and started the 45 mile passage to Mindelo, Sao Vicente. We arrived here on Saturday evening, 11^th February. There are a number of international boats here preparing to cross the Atlantic. All being well and assuming we stock up with food, water and diesel, we should leave here on Tuesday or Wednesday for a 2091 mile passage to Martinique in the Caribbean. We’re allowing 20 days, but might be a little faster if we pick up a decent current.

Gran Canaria and El Hierro

Kathy at El Golfo

The first job ashore at Las Palmas, Gran Canaria was to visit a chandlery. This was quickly achieved without leaving the marina. Next was to search for a new pressure cooker and visit a supermarket. We were surprised to find ourselves in Marks and Spencer looking at socks and underwear! Focusing on the task again, we entered the huge department store called El Corte Ingles. Here we found a good choice of pressure cookers and bought a 6 litre one made by BRA.

 

The long and winding road: eat your heart out Dervaig

On Tuesday 25^th January we caught the numero uno bus to the old town and had a look at Christopher Columbus’s house, Casa Colon. After a hearty lunch at El Herreno, we caught a different bus to the old port, where we had to get an exit certificate from the Policia Frontera. Unfortunately, we got off too early and had a 2-3 kilometre walk through the port. We had no problems getting our exit clearance once we found the right office.

 

Famous sculpted tree

We had a passage of 144 miles ahead of us from Gran Canaria to El Hierro. We left soon after mid-day on 26^th January, motoring round the north end of the island in calm, sunny weather. Two hours later a short, uncomfortable swell started and the 5 knot wind accelerated to 22 knots. These acceleration zones are common in the Canary Islands, but not expected on what was such a calm day! We altered our course and sailed towards Tenerife. Five hours later, the wind returned to 5 knots and we motored the rest of the way to El Hierro, arriving at the new marina just before dark on 27^th January.

 

Drove my Chevy to the leve

Jeremy checked in with the harbour master the next morning paying the very reasonable 13 euros a night fee, which included electricity and showers. We were at the bus stop in good time to catch the 1100 bus to Valverde, the main town on El Hierro. We don’t know how we missed the bus, but the harbour master came to our rescue and said one of the port staff would take us in his car. That was how we found ourselves with Jose, who spoke no English, driving to Valverde and trying to explain that we wanted to hire a car. Jose stopped at a petrol filling station and called to a friend, who telephoned someone, who said we would have to go to Frontera for a hire car, a twenty minute drive away. We wondered what we had let ourselves in for and how we would get to Frontera, when Jose said, “No problem,” followed by some Spanish, which we thought meant he was going there anyway. Off we went to Frontera, where we parked in front of a house and waited for Roger and the hire car. The back shelf of the hire was car was Roger’s office and he filled in a form and charged us 46 euros for two days. Jeremy asked about insurance and Roger said it was included. Once again, we have been touched by the generosity of local people towards complete strangers.

We were back in Valverde for lunch, picking up two hitch-hikers on the way. We met up with Bob and Liz, friends from our last visit to El Hierro. They took us to their house, which has a fabulous view out over the sea to La Gomera and Tenerife. We spent the afternoon with them drinking coffee and admiring their house and extensive gardens.

Kathy, Bob and Liz

The next day, with a map borrowed from Bob and Liz, we drove round the whole island in our Chevrolet. El Hierro is a beautiful island of contrasts which include stunning sea views, high mountain passes, pine forests and bleak, lava fields. On our return to Valverde, we stopped at the filling station and filled two large containers of diesel, ready for our next passage to the Cape Verdes.

 

Our magic carpet in Estaca

Monday 30^th January consisted of doing jobs during the day. Jeremy donned his wetsuit and spent an hour and a half scrubbing SD’s bottom. His hard work paid off later, giving us an extra half knot of speed. In the evening, Bob and Liz came to SD to collect us and take us to a restaurant for dinner. We saw the last of the sunset at a miradore, before having a lovely supper in a restaurant nearby. Soon it was time to say goodbye to our friends and thank them for their hospitality. We shall think of you, Bob and Liz, every time we spread homemade plum jam on our bread. Thank you for the gift and for all the information you gave us about El Hierro. We had a lovely time.

 

OAP birthday boy/old man

Yesterday, Monday 6^th February, we arrived safely in Sal, Cape Verde. The five and a half day passage was fast in the strong, trade winds, with SD covering 135 nm on three days. The sea was rough at times and we flew twin headsails – no.2 jib to port and a well-reefed genoa to starboard. Our trusty Hydrovane wind pilot steered the whole way. Jeremy celebrated his 65^th birthday at sea and is looking forward to his first state pension cheque in three weeks’ time.