Sunday, 25 October 2026

Sal Darago’s Ionian Odyssey Part 1

We spent two months at home in Suffolk. In August, we joined the Westerly Owners East Coast Group rally along the River Orwell. This was to celebrate the 60th Anniversary of the Westerly Owners Association. We borrowed Emily and Ben’s yacht, Searose, for this. We enjoyed catching up with old and new friends as we ate and drank together at various locations along the river. Thanks to all the hardworking committee members who made it all possible.

Searose in Ipswich, Suffolk
 Two days before we flew back to Greece, we drove up to York for our great niece, Alice’s, 21st party. Emily, Ben, Ellie and Sophie were there along with most of the Spencer clan and Alice’s friends. Everyone had a great time being amazed by a magician, eating a lovely buffet in a marquee in the garden, dancing and singing along to a karaoke band and taking part in a silent disco.

Ellie, Anna, Sylvie, Sophie and Alice on stage at Alice's party
 We had booked return flights from Stansted Airport to Preveza in Greece back in July, after doing our best to understand the 90 days in a “rolling” period of 180 days. We believed that if we left the Schengen area for two months, we could return for up to two months. As we researched further at home, it began to look like we could not do this. We had already spent 83 consecutive days in the Schengen area. It seemed that we might only be able to stay in Greece for a week.

“Don’t panic,” we told ourselves. “Check with Immigration at Preveza Airport and do what they say.” We were relieved when the officer said we could stay for three months. We only wanted a month. He checked with someone and came back and told us that was OK. Phew! The Ionian Odyssey could begin.

Launch day at Margarona Boatyard
 Jeremy and I both had bad colds when we arrived on Wednesday 30th September. I felt particularly poorly. We hired a car for two days from Preveza Airport and Jeremy drove us to Margarona Boatyard. Sal Darago looked good apart from dirty decks. We drove to Lidl and stocked up with fresh provisions. Jeremy fitted the new gasket to the diesel tank. We unpacked and we slept.

Thursday was spent going back and forth to Customs. They would not release our papers until we applied online and paid our tax and transit charge to cruise in Greece for one month. This cost 33 euros and was exactly the same information as we had provided in July. I had a rest in the afternoon while Jeremy patched up SD’s antifoul paint, filled the water tanks and bottles and replaced the diesel in the tank. So far, no leaks. He replaced the outboard petrol tank outside in the dark. I wrote in my diary, “Just the fenders, horseshoe lifebelts and other stuff to do tomorrow.”

Preveza Anchorage
 Sal Darago was launched just before midday on Friday 2nd October. I felt a little better after a good night’s sleep. The engine started first time and we motored to the anchorage off Preveza, where we stayed for two nights. The only leak was from the toilet!

The closed swing bridge, Lefkas Canal
 On Saturday, we were ready to start course planning. Simon’s old laptop with MaxSea on it, which had worked perfectly before, failed to start up. Fortunately, Jeremy had installed Open CPN on my laptop to use as back up. Normally, he would have brought his own laptop but that had crashed out never to work again while we were at home. We plotted a course to Nidri on Lefkas Island.

Santa Maura Fort and the entrance to the Lefkas Canal
 We left the anchorage the next day, stopping to take on diesel at the fuel berth in Preveza Marina. Soon we had the engine on and the genoa flying, making 6 knots towards the Lefkas Canal, where the road bridge opened every hour. We cut corners to arrive in time for the 1100 opening, only to find they were now operating their winter timetable, so it wouldn’t open until midday. We tied to a charter catamaran at the quay, chatted to the crew and waited. Once through the bridge the direction of buoyage changed and we had to remember to keep the red buoys to starboard. We anchored in a bay south of the canal. We stayed for two nights. During this time we went ashore to Ligia fishing harbour in the dinghy and caught a bus to a different Lidl supermarket. More provisions were purchased. We returned to Ligia by taxi.

Tranquil Bay
 Did I mention in a previous blog post that Jeremy had been in contact with Nick, a rowing friend and fellow World Youth Finalist, from his school days. Nick keeps his boat in Nidri. He had been very helpful to us on our journey to Greece. We had arranged to meet up with him and his friend, Bob, on Thursday afternoon. Nick recommended a quiet bay nearby, which he called Farm Bay, because of all the animals on the beach. We spent Tuesday night there and had a peaceful night.

Lara at Vlikho
 On Wednesday 8th October we motored further south and anchored in Tranquil Bay, which was anything but tranquil, opposite Nidri. We took the dinghy ashore the next day, used the laundrette and post office, bought petrol and cooking gas and returned to SD for lunch. In the afternoon, we motored the short distance to Vlikho and anchored just beyond Nick’s yacht, Lara. We joined him and Bob on board Lara. It had been 46 years since we had last seen Nick. It was lovely to meet up at last. Later, we all went ashore to Elena’s Taverna for dinner. There was a thunderstorm at 0300. We were both safely anchored in Vlikho Bay.

Vathi Harbour, Meganisi
 We spent the next three days with Nick and Bob. We motored in company to Vathi on Meganisi. We learned a lot watching Nick and Bob anchor off and reverse to the fishermen’s quay, which had only just been vacated. Then it was our turn. I dropped the anchor and Jeremy reversed. Sal Darago always kicks to port in reverse. With a lot of help from Nick and Bob, we were soon secured with two stern lines ashore. The weather was very unsettled. Fortunately, it had been calm for our first attempt at berthing stern to. In the afternoon another thunderstorm arrived with NW winds up to 40 knots. We were in a good place being blown off our quay, but held securely by our stern lines. Opposite us, the boats had to beware of being blown into their quay if their anchors dragged.

Nick, Jeremy and Bob
 An inflatable dinghy came floating past with one oar and nobody in it. Jeremy managed to catch it with our boathook and tie it up alongside. He called a general message on VHF 16 for anyone who had lost a dinghy. Later, Rachel and Graham came along and identified their dinghy from their charter boat. The next day they gave us a bottle of wine to share as a thank you.

Jeremy, Kathy and Nick with our boats behind us
 During our three days and nights at Vathi, Nick, Bob, Jeremy and I ate out at Stravos and Pistrina Tavernas. I made a spaghetti Bolognese one evening and we all sat round the table on Sal Darago, eating, drinking and chatting. Nick and Jeremy reminisced about their school days. We also had sundowners on each other’s boats. Bob and Nick suggested anchorages and harbours we might visit during the next three weeks. Thank you Bob and Nick for your company and advice.

Jeremy, Nick and Kathy saying goodbye at Vathi
 On Monday 12th October, we said goodbye to Nick and Bob. We watched them motor out of the harbour. From now on we were on our own.