Intenet at last

We spent 3 nights on anchor at Funchal, Madeira. After the relatively calm first night, we paid a deposit of 10 euros to the marina for a shower key and took the bus up the mountain to the Botanical Gardens where we could obtain a permit to visit the Islas Desertas. We had to stand all the way at the back of the packed bus, hanging on as we climbed near vertical gradients and swept round narrow 90-180 degree bends at speed, with only a toot on the horn to warn any oncoming traffic or pedestrians! We got off when everybody else did, wondered where we were and followed the crowd to an entrance to the Jardim Botanico. We paid our 3 euros each, obtained our permit with little fuss and minimal paperwork and spent a pleasant few hours wandering round succulent gardens, with cacti taller than trees, walking through topiary and box formal gardens, admiring and photographing the birds in the extensive aviary and eating our picnic in the shade of many species of trees and flowering plants.

My sister, Pat, had recommended the cablecar. We took the one that went up which cost us 8 euros each. It was amazing looking down into the valley below and seeing tiny people walking along the levadas. The view of Funchal, miles below us and of the harbour was spectacular. Once at the top, we had 2 options – take the bus down for 2 euros or the cablecar for 10 each. We took the bus. It turned out to be an excellent choice. This time we had seats and if it was scary coming up it was a white knuckle ride going down! The views, once again, when you dared look were suberb.

Once safely down our day was spoilt by a wind change in the bay which put Sal Darago too close to the catamaran next to us. Then it began to rain heavily and we moved closer and closer to the cat. Eventually, we reanchored in the rain – twice. Then further excitement began as someone shouted for help with a yacht that was dragging its anchor and moving close to the shore. As Jeremy was in the dinghy he went to help immediately and 3 dinghies saved the yacht from grounding. The owner was ashore. It amazed all the rescuers to find there was no anchor when they tried pulling it up. The chain had snapped. That night we all rocked and rolled in the bay but everyone stayed put. The French owner returned and took his boat into the marina but he did invite us all aboard for drinks the next day and was eternally grateful, kissing everyone and thanking us all.

Our last night at Funchal was even more rocky and we were happy to leave for the Canary Islands even though the wind was blowing in excess of 20 knots! We were not able to visit the Islas Desertas. Sailing people will know about lee shores. We had strong winds blowing onshore into a temporary anchorage backed by sheer cliffs, so we sailed on passing the islands safely if a little too close for comfort. We had a good passage in a westerly wind – where are the north east trades?

Two days and nights later we arrived at Islas Graciosa, very close to the north end of Lanzarote. We’re in the marina now. The harbour master is on holiday, there is no water and no electricity on the berths. The showers are cold water only and the choice is between communal ones on a nearby campsite with no roof or doors or one only on the quay. To get water for the boat you have to remove the shower head and fill containers! The plus side of all this is it’s very cheap! Tomorrow we are moving to a nearby anchorage in Playa Francesca and when we feel refreshed we’ll have a look at the coasts of Lanzarote and Fuertaventura. We’re in the Canaries until December so if anyone is having a holiday here do visit – we have spare berths- except from 1-8 November when Emily and Ben are coming.

We’re back in Spanish territory so hasta luego!