Richards Bay and Durban

The morning after our arrival at Richards Bay, South Africa, we were met by Natasha from OSASA (Ocean Sailing Association of South Africa). She told us Immigration would come to the boat. Afterwards, she would take Jeremy and two crew from Endo2 to Customs and then to a mobile phone shop to buy SIM cards. She also advised that walking the pretty coastal path to Meerensee was not safe as people were living in the trees and you were likely to be mugged. The area around Tuzi Gazi and Zululand Yacht Club was safe to wander around during the day.

There was an ATM nearby, a grocery shop and several restaurants and cafes. Boat trips were taking place all weekend and there was a party atmosphere with groups of people, friends and families celebrating birthdays and other special events at the restaurants. Loud music pounded out from the other side of Tuzi Gazi unti 4.00am on Monday morning. During the week, it was very quiet, especially as Endo2 moved to Zululand YC on Sunday. The Dutch yacht, Lucipara2, with Floris and Ivir on board arrived on Sunday morning and also moved to Zululand YC later that day. We felt a little vulnerable on our own on the main wharf, so we moved to the central wharf, away from the wide walkway used by the general public.

Drinks at RNYC, Durban

Eric, the taxi driver recommended by Natasha, picked us up on Monday morning and took us to Zululand YC to collect a Flight Plan. We had to complete the Flight Plan for our passage from Richards Bay to Durban, present it to the Police in Tuzi Gazi for approval, before returning it to Zululand YC later in the day. Eric then drove us to Meerensee, where there were two shopping centres across the road from each other. We shopped at Spar Superstore and returned to Tuzi Gazi in time to have lunch at Dros.

Durban Marina and CBD

We walked to Zululand YC in the afternoon, handed in our flight plan at the office and waited about 20 minutes, while the details were sent to the various officials electronically. The reply came back that we had been cleared to leave Richards Bay the following day.

On Tuesday 18^th October, we motored out of Tuzi Gazi. Port Control gave us permission to leave Richards Bay and we were on our way. The waves were quite big at the breakwater, but settled down as we turned on to our course for Durban. There were many ships, some moving towards the port and others anchored off or drifting, waiting for a pilot to steer them to their berths. In addition, humpback whales were blowing and breaching inshore of us; relaxation wasn’t an option!

Some healing is taking place

In the morning, we approached the ship anchorage north of Durban. It was my watch and dawn had broken, so at least I could see the many ships. I spent two hours avoiding them, with the genoa poled out and a following sea. There were so many on the AIS that it was better to watch by eye than keep checking distances on the machine. It was a relief to wake Jeremy with only two ships to go and the port of Durban just six miles away. Port Control told us to proceed to enter and we tied up to the international small boat dock at 0840 on Wednesday 19^th October.

On passage from Durban to East London

The staff at Durban Marina were very helpful. We were allocated a berth on one of the long pontoons where we met a number of friendly local boat owners. Everyone’s advice was the same: avoid walking outside of the marina and yacht club areas; if you have to cross the road, do not wear a back pack, watch or mobile phone; use a taxi to take you to and from recommended shopping malls. We took the local advice and only ventured across the road to go to the laundry, Barnacle Bill’s chandlery and the ATM and grocery shop at the petrol station.

Following sea

Both yacht clubs (Point YC and Royal Natal YC) were friendly and welcoming. Unfortunately, Point YC’s bar was temporarily closed but they had a restaurant and hot showers. RNYC welcomed us with a bottle of wine! We were given free membership of both clubs for two weeks.

Nine knots in the Agulhas current

Durban had recently experienced severe flooding. Mistakes had been made in the infrastructure and raw sewage was spilling into the harbour. It did not smell, except at low water. However, we were advised to wash our hands after handling lines and fenders.

My leg had not been healing. When we mentioned this to Mrs Naido in Durban Marina office, she strongly recommended us to see Zack in the Citi Pharmacy next to the Shoprite supermarket that we were not meant to walk to! Jeremy and I braved the 300 yard walk without incident. I was rewarded with a cream with which to dress my leg wound twice a day (much to Jeremy’s delight) and a course of penicillin. After one week, the wound seems smaller.

Distant SD on mooring at BRYC

We needed to allow two days to sail the 250nm from Durban to East London. There are no refuges on the appropriately named Wild Coast. A weather window opened up for us and we left our marina berth in Durban at 0345 on Sunday 23^rd October. Thanks to a lift from the Agulhas current (once we found it 15 miles offshore) we were able to complete the passage quite quickly arriving at Buffalo River Yacht Club, East London, at 2130 on Monday 24^th October. It was a challenge picking up and tying bow and stern to a trot mooring in the dark. We were very pleased to have arrived before a strong SW blow.