Cocos to Rodrigues

Healing slowly

Apart from having to put a new dressing on my leg every day, what other challenges did we face on our passage to Rodrigues? The short answer is the swell, the wind and the waves. On the first night, we had winds gusting to 30 knots; that’s a force 7 on the Beaufort Scale, just short of a gale. We were on a reach with the wind just behind the beam. We had 2 reefs in the mainsail and the genoa was furled to a small triangle. The sea seemed to be all over the place with a 3 metres plus swell behind taking us up and down and a sideways swell with breaking wind waves on top powering into our port side. Some waves broke over us and we had plenty of water in the cockpit. Our trusty Hydrovane wind pilot steered through all of this while the person on watch jammed themselves under the sprayhood, taking refuge down below for some relief.

Big waves

We knew that July and August were not the best months to cross the South Indian Ocean. Unfortunately, we had little choice as we had to leave Australia by mid August or risk having to import Sal Darago with a large fee to pay. Visiting recreation craft are allowed to stay in Australian waters for three years and there did not seem to be any flexibility in this rule to allow for the effect of Covid and the closure of borders for two years. Jimmy Cornell wrote in his World Cruising Routes book that the winds can blow up to 30 knots in July and August for “days on end.” He was right.

Rough seas

Regular comments in our log were “strong and boisterous conditions”; “rough seas”; “very big swell”; “rough, breaking seas”; “wave half filled cockpit”; “scary at times.” I started taking Stugeron.

Making bread on passage

Jeremy was very worried about the new boat batteries. We’d had to run the engine for an hour every night as there was little sun for the solar panels. Each day the percentage charge decreased by 1% and neither the solar panels nor the alternator recognised that the batteries need more charge. It remains an ongoing problem.

Land ahoy! Rodrigues ahead

Fortunately, the second week of our passage was better. Some afternoons we had lighter winds and the sun shone. The swell decreased and less water came over. Then we had squalls but at least the wind on them was short lived although the rain could be heavy. A few large bulk carrying ships passed. Jeremy called one on the VHF radio as it was going to pass too close to us. On another day a ship called us and asked if we were ok in the swell. I think the response was “much better than last week”.

Anchored fairly close to the reef

We made a mince stew when we needed to and bread every two or three days. The wind blew from the ESE and the swell decreased. Jeremy took down the mainsail in the middle of the night and put up two poles and twin headsails. I struggled to adjust to the new rig when I went on watch at midnight. It was much better than before and I was grateful for a quieter night.

Port Mathurin

As we approached Rodrigues on Monday 29^th August, Mauritius Coastguard called us on VHF 16 and asked for our intentions. We said we’d like permission to enter the harbour at Port Mathurin. A little later permission was granted and we motored into the port with the engine threatening to cut out. Rust particles had been shaken up by the rough seas and could have blocked the fuel pipe. We breathed a sigh of relief as we entered the channel cut in the reef and tied up at the long ship wharf.

The ship wharf at Port Mathurin

We lost count of the officials that came on board. Health was first, then Coastguard, Customs, Immigration (we had to go to their office on the wharf) and Agriculture. Time passed, the tide rose and Sal Darago was lifted twice against a big metal eye on the wharf. There was a horrible crunching noise as the gel coat cracked on the deck toe rail. Two hours after our arrival, we were allowed to anchor in the harbour. We ate a late lunch and slept.

Sunset over the reef

Today (3^rd September) is our fifth day in Rodrigues. On our first full day, we went to the hospital and had my leg checked out. The injury is not infected but the medics were obviously concerned that it might become infected. So, I have been put on antibiotics, given an antibiotic cream and painkillers (even though it’s not painful) and I’ve been bandaged almost from knee to ankle. We’ve had lunch out several times, been to the supermarket and found a guest house that will do our laundry. Meanwhile, on SD, we’ve been mopping up and trying to track the source of any leaks. The radar mast supports have been re-bedded and all the saloon windows have been sealed. Lockers have been washed out and cushions dried.

The reef at low water

Our friends on Serengeti arrived a few days ago. We’re looking forward to catching up with them soon.