Rodrigues to La Reunion

The first time we visited Rodrigues we met an interesting woman called Birgite. She washed our laundry and it was the cleanest we’d had returned anywhere. We made some enquiries, found Birgite and arranged to meet for lunch at Kafe Rose. We ate and chatted for almost two hours. This time we made sure we exchanged phone numbers, so we can keep in touch.

Pre lunch coffees

We had heard that the Queen was ill at Balmoral. Like the rest of the UK and most of the world we were shocked that she died shortly afterwards on 8^th September. May she rest in peace with her husband Prince Philip. After such a long life of service, it feels like the end of an era. We flew our ensign at half mast.

We went ashore and visited the offices of Immigration and Customs. We were told officers would come to the jetty the following Monday and we could clear out. Afterwards, we caught a bus to Gravier and walked 5.4km to St Francois. This was a coastal walk but it had it’s ups and downs including a scramble up a near vertical rock face!

Waiting for Bergite at Kafe Rose

On the way we met David and Frederique, who live in Reunion. We had a short conversation with them and gave them our contact details. Perhaps we would meet them again in La Reunion.

First long walk in a while

I was very pleased with my leg, which gave less trouble than my knees! Apparently, by the end of the day we’d walked 8.6km. We were fortunate to be given a lift to Mount Lubin (not far from Port Mathurin) as the 1420 bus did not come. A Dutch ketch called Luciparaz with Floris and Ivor on board was tied to the wharf in the harbour.

On the way to St Francois

Two days later, we were up at 0500 ready to weigh anchor and move out of the harbour until the supply ship, Black Rhino, had berthed. Ted from Serengeti called the coastguard as there was no vessel visible on AIS for 21 miles. Soon afterwards, Black Rhino called the coastguard to say they expected to arrive at 0800! Consequently, we didn’t have to leave the harbour until 0730.

Walking in Rodrigues

We checked out, had lunch and left Rodrigues on Monday 12^th September. Once we were clear of the big swells on the surrounding reef, we had a good passage for most of the four day sail to La Reunion. We sailed south of Mauritius, crossed a shipping route that went between the two islands, and soon caught sight of the mountains of La Reunion.

Twin headsails all the way

On our last day and night the sunny weather gradually gave way to cloud and rain on the horizon. The wind increased as darkness fell. We reefed down as the wind reached 29 knots behind. At this rate, we’d be in Le Port de Galets by midnight. Once we were on the west coast of La Reunion, the wind appeared to switch off and calm was restored. All sails and poles were taken down and the port called on VHF 16; no response, so we called the French Coastguard and were told the port was closed until 0800. We could not enter until then and there was nowhere to anchor!

Ideal cruising conditions

We took turns to watch the helm as we drifted outside the port for the next 8 hours. There was still no response to our call on VHF 16 in the morning, so we entered anyway and headed toward the Office du Capitainerie. A member of staff shouted from the quay to turn around and go to the new marina where we were expected and we should use VHF 09. 

At 0900 a member of staff took our lines and secured us to pontoon 05. Angelique gave us a pack and electronic keys and answered our questions. Later, Michael came by to say Customs were delayed. Customs and Immigration arrived together later that morning. Our papers were all in order and our passports were stamped. We were free to explore La Reunion.