Martinique and Dominica

Carnival procession in Fort de France

While we were in Fort de France, we watched a mini carnival. The actual carnival starts two days before Ash Wednesday. The drums were beating for 3 hours as groups of brightly dressed characters danced down the streets.

Carnival girl

Soon afterwards we motorsailed to St Pierre. We read about a metal fabricators within walking distance of the harbour, so Jeremy took our anchor windlass gypsy there to be welded. The gypsy had become worn with many years of anchor chain straining around it. It was going to cost 100 euros but it would save us having to pay 400 pounds plus shipping for a new one. Unfortunately, the welds were only partially successful and the anchor chain slipped more than before. Jeremy started fiiing down the new welds using a hand drill. Later, in Dominica, he was able to use shoreside electricity at East Carib Dive Centre and a power drill, but it is still slipping.

Walking the Canal de Beau Regard

The weather was not suitable for hiking up the volcano, Mt Pele, so we decided to walk along the Canal de Beau Regard. I expected the walk to be along a dry canal, once used for irrigation, like the levadas in Madeira. Instead, the original canal built by slaves, still carried water and was about 2 feet wide held in by a one foot-wide wall. The 4km walk was on this wall around the side of a mountain. It had no handrails or barriers and often there were drops of several hundred feet to the valley below.  I have a good head for heights, but this was tested on a sometimes uneven, narrow surface in a strong wind and driving rain. To cheer me up Jeremy said, “If you fall, make sure you fall in the canal.” The final 100 yards passed through a tunnel in semi darkness. At least we could feel the walls. Following this breathtaking experience, we had a near vertical ascent to a much welcome restaurant, where I embarrassed Jeremy by wringing out my socks at the edge of the terrace and hanging them under my chair to dry.

Jeremy above the Macoucherie River

The passage to Roseau, Dominica was only 35 miles but we had 20 miles of strong winds and big swells with breaking waves. The boatman that met us told us it was too deep to anchor and we would have to have a mooring at a cost of 10USD per night. We insisted on anchoring and chose a place recommended in our cruising guide. It took us a while and considerable effort to put out a bow and stern anchor but we were secure and out of the way of other yachts on moorings. The boatman returned and told us he could not guarantee our safety where we were, so we were on our own. This made us feel uncomfortable, so the next day, we cleared Customs and left busy Roseau with its two cruise ships in port for a quieter anchorage.

Two tall cruise ships having a race.

This we found at Mero, where we walked to the Macoucherie Rum Distillery and sampled some of the best rum in the Caribbean. We bought a bottle of course. Just round the corner was Salisbury, a local village, largely left alone by tourists. East Carib Dive Centre provided free moorings and were very kind to us. They also ran a restaurant and we had a tasty lunch there with about 10 French people. One day we took a side track and climbed about 2000 feet to a livestock farm. Another day we followed the lovely track beside the Macoucherie River for over 2 hours.

The peaceful Indian River

Now, we are anchored off Portsmouth, in the north of Dominica. The boatmen here have formed a professional group called PAYS and are very friendly. We were met by Alexis and shown where to anchor. A few days later, we joined another couple and Alexis rowed us up the Indian River telling us about its history and identifying birds, plants, trees and other creatures that lived in and alongside the quiet, peaceful river. We have also explored the Cabrits, housing the wonderfully renovated ex-British Fort Shirley.

Fly repellent needed at the West Cabrits battery

In a few days, we hope to go to the Saintes, which are part of Guadeloupe, a department of France. We will have to exchange our EC dollars for euros and start practising our French again.