Madeira

We arrived in Madeira on Thursday 11 September, today as I write, and yes it is September, honest.

We had a lovely time in Porto Santo, beginning for the first time this trip to relax and feel as if we were on holiday. This is largely due to the fact that we are almost up to date as it were with our itinerary dates. We are hoping to spend about seven days in Madeira which will mean we are one day behind on the schedule.

Porto Santo was very hot even at night. It cannot be described as beautiful, yet its bare, crevassed mountains which rise startlingly from the sea do have a fascination; how have they withstood the rages of the Atlantic for the centuries?

The day we arrived I did some repairs/maintenance – on the rudder (needed lubricating), sheet winch (new sleeve needed freeing), and had a look over the engine but did not attack the drip on the diesel fuel oil filter (Em may bring me some new Banjo bolts). Not too bad after 480 nautical miles, the majority of which were on engine. We did the washing, walked to town to get supplies (nearly every day) and one night at nearly midnight, went for a romantic walk along the breakwater. It was still 72°F. After three days on the pontoons (€ 75) we moved onto a mooring in the Ex NATO harbour. It was cooler away from the pontoons, but we were nearer to a cement factory which kept churning 24/7. Also close by was a night club which started at 0200 and finished at 0600.

We met many people from various countries including a good friend of Robert Macleod’s, Mishnish, Tobermory, called John, his wife, and crew Frank and Bernie – all on a beautiful Island Packet 45 called Hound Dog IV. We sat with them on the air conditioned bus tour of the island (the bus had no roof). Here we saw that much of the building (95%) had been done in the last 10 years – no kidding. Most of the original dwellings had been demolished or subsumed and it was clear that the original way of life had been subsistence farming. Even now there were a few corrugated shacks at the side of the road in town, where natives were selling tomatoes, and two types of melons from three small boxes. The centre of town itself was very clean and also recently designed. We saw the 15 century church and next door “Columbus’ House”, now naturally a museum.

By the end of the week, we were into a routine: town in the morning, lunch, siesta, swim on the beach, shower and back to Sal Darago for an evening meal in the cockpit. It was hard work believe me. Kathy discovered that one can cook a roast in the pressure cooker which was splendid. (Where would we be without that particular wedding present?) And so after a week we decided to set sail again across the mighty ocean to Madeira. It is at least 20 miles away, but harbour to harbour more like 32 miles.

As we left we saw the “Santa Maria”, looking suspiciously like the “Black Pearl”. The seas were uneven and Kathy kept referring to the Irish Sea. About halfway between the islands, the swell came from one direction, the wind rose and we were sailing at 5 knots. This we kept up as we turned towards Quinta Do Lorde, with the wind on the nose and picking up to 20 knots. After registering and booking in, the rain started and we now have the tent over the cockpit and are listening to the wind trying to remove it. No WiFi here so who knows when this will be posted. Do post a comment, please.