Guaymas Mexico to San Francisco, USA

Luxury bus at Guaymas

On Monday 7^th May we caught a bus from Guaymas to Tucson, USA. It was 40 minutes late, but very comfy. Unfortunately we had to disembark three times for security checks and it took nearly 2 hours to cross the US border. 

USA Mexico border

Our stay at Town Place Suite by Marriot was great and we tried our first Denny’s for a meal. In the morning we walked to Alamo Rental car at the airport and picked up a Nissen Versa Note. It was small, economical and had cruise control. It was hot (107F) crossing the desert, but we arrived safely at Fort Bliss, El Paso, and had a wonderful time with my niece, Miki, and her two children.

Miki, Kathy, Isaac and Abigail

Birthday lunch at St Clair Bistro, Las Cruces

Courthouse surprise at Mesilla

We returned the rental car to Phoenix Mesa Gateway Airport the following Friday. We crossed three State lines: Texas, New Mexico and Arizona on our six hour drive and gained an hour due to different time zones. We flew to Oakland Airport across the bay from San Francisco and were met by our son, Simon. Erin and Buffy the cat were waiting for us in Sunnyvale.

Mothers' Day lunch from The Boiling Crab.

Underneath the sequoia tree

 It was lovely to be reunited once more, even though our separation had only been months this time, not years. I had the pleasure of being with Simon and Erin for USA Mother’s Day and my birthday.

Mini golf. Erin and Kathy were overall winners

Please comment if you think the sequoia tree is actually a giant redwood.

San Carlos/Guaymas Area

We left Fonatur Marina, Guaymas on Friday 20^th April and motored four miles to Bahia Catalina. It was gusty with a strong SW wind blowing down an arroyo. We anchored in the northern part of the bay which gave a little shelter from the wind. Fortunately, the holding was good. There were a few local pangas and a some people on the far northern side as there is dirt road access to Bahia Catalina from Guaymas. Nobody bothered us.

Palapa Griega, San Carlos

The next day we left at 0730 and motored six miles to Ensenada Carrizal. The wind was much lighter, so we were able to do some jobs such as taking the water catching gutters off our bimini and cleaning and stowing the Hydrovane rudder. We had time for snorkelling and scrubbed Sal Darago’s bottom. Afterwards, Jeremy took off the jackstays, preventer and deck blocks and washed them.

Bonifacio's Cotton Club, San Carlos

The anchor alarm went off twice during the night. All was OK, thankfully. There is a fish camp nearby and some of the fishermen row out of the bay in the early hours to catch fish before the winds start to blow. None of them approached us. We left at 0700 and travelled nine miles to Caleta Posada, crossing Bahia San Francisco. We were now very close to San Carlos, a large yachting centre, but there was only one vessel at anchor. Another one arrived soon after us. The crew from the ketch Kha Khan stopped by and gave us useful information about shops and restaurants.

Caleta Lalo from the Mirador

I cleaned the front cabin and Jeremy washed the topsides. We went ashore in the dinghy, landed on the beach and walked along the red hot sand for a Greek lunch in Palapa Griega. Afterwards, we walked about three quarters of a mile to Leys Supermarket. Back at SD, we cooled off with a quick swim and more bottom scrubbing.

The Soggy Peso, Bahia Algadones

We weighed anchor at 0755 on Monday 23^rd April and headed for Martini Cove, only two miles away. This usually busy cove was deserted at this early hour so we had it to ourselves. As it has limited swinging room, Jeremy preferred to stay on board and keep watch while I donned my wetsuit and went snorkelling. Sadly, the visibility was not at its best, but I still saw plenty of colourful fish and found shallow passages amongst the kelp beds.

One of many caves at Ensenada Carrizal

Later in the morning, we weighed anchor and motored three miles to Caleto Lalo, which is below the Mirador, and round the corner from Bahia Algadones. It was very calm. We rowed ashore, landed on the beach, avoided scorpions in the car park and walked up to Coco Loco on the roadside. They had drinks but no food, so we walked on to Bonifacio’s Cotton Club RV Resort, where we had lovely tacos in their air conditioned restaurant.

It was a hot day and we were sweating when we reached the Mirador. It was worth the effort as the views were stunning. On the way back we stopped at Coco Loco and shared a coconut. One of the rope handles on the dinghy broke as we carried it, giving Jeremy another job to do on our return to SD.

Twin peaks of Las Tetas

The next day we motored three miles to Bahia Algadones and anchored close to the place where we anchored before. This time the weather was calm, so we were able to go ashore and land the dinghy on the beach. We searched for the film set of Catch 22 but did not find it. We consoled ourselves with lunch on the beach at the Soggy Peso.

Scorpion near Marina San Carlos

On Wednesday 25^th April we left Bahia Algadones and returned to Caleta Posada. This time we went ashore and up some steps between some pleasant houses. It was a short walk to Marina San Carlos. Tortugas restaurant just up the road was recommended for lunch and I was amazed to find Shepherd’s Pie on the daily specials menu. Pino Colada was also on special, so I had the former and Jeremy had the latter!

Happy lunch at Tortugas, San Carlos

We returned to Marina Fonatur, Guaymas via Ensenada Carrizal and Bahia Catalina. Jeremy changed the engine oil and filters and together we washed and took down the genoa. The end of our sailing adventure was close but not until we’d spent two nights in Fonatur Marina where we washed the mainsail, folded and stowed both sails and removed and washed all deck fittings.

New home for Sal Darago

Our final day on the water, Monday 30^th April, dawned damp and misty. We left Marina Fonatur at 0905, motored a mile across the harbour and were in the travel lift at Marina Seca, Guaymas by 0940. The rest of the week was spent washing halyards, cleaning lockers, stowing the canvas from our bimini and our dodgers and generally preparing Sal Darago for dry storage for the next ten months.

Sea of Cortez sunset

On Sunday 6^th May we called Jose and he arrived in his taxi within 15 minutes to take us to Hotel del Sol, Guaymas. From there our land trip to Tucson, El Paso, San Francisco and the Canadian Rockies began. Watch out for future blog posts relating our experiences as landlubbers.

Bahia Los Perros to Guaymas

Ashore by dinghy at Kino, nice and calm

We left Bahia los Perros in calm, sunny weather and motored 20 miles to Bahia Kino on the mainland side of the Sea of Cortez. Because the bay is shallow, we had to anchor about half to three quarters of a mile away from the town dock. We launched the dinghy, landed on the beach and went ashore in search of groceries and lunch.

Isla Alcatraz, Kino

We returned a couple of hours later to find a brisk wind blowing onshore and plenty of short, sharp waves between us and Sal Darago. Jeremy removed his shorts; I rolled up mine. We did get wet, but it could have been so much worse.

We weighed anchor and headed for Punta Hueso de la Ballena (Whalebone Point). A panga came alongside with three men onboard. One spoke English. Jeremy thought they were checking us out, but they only asked for water. We gave them a five litre bottle of water and they motored away. They did not return. We continued to the anchorage where there were many flies and we had to retreat to the saloon behind our insect nets.

Kite surfing at Bahia Algodones

We had a good mobile phone signal and I was able to phone my sister, Pat. She had a problem with her heart and was about to undergo tests. She had been in hospital but was now at home recovering. I have since heard that she has returned to part-time shifts at work and is feeling better.

Shoreline at Bahia Algodones

Meanwhile, we waited for the strong southerly winds to arrive. It was now Thurday, 12^th April. We received an email from our friend, Dale informing us that Ruth Tyler had died. We reflected on the recent sad news we’d had from family and friends. Auntie Joyce died in March, a neighbour died in Tobermory, Scotland, and now an old friend from Essex. We were reminded of our mortality and how fragile we are as human beings. May they all rest in peace.

Strange coloured water - certainly not natural

 In the afternoon, a motorboat called Wetbar arrived and anchored nearby. Jeremy spoke to Greg on the VHF radio. They were heading for the same place as us, Bahia Algadones (Cotton) 82 miles further south. Once the strong southerlies died away they would be followed by strong northerlies and we would leave. It took a while, so we slept for a few hours, before weighing anchor at 2315.

Still - the sea birds seemed to like it?

The overnight sail was a combination of motoring and downwind sailing. As the wind strength increased, we sailed with only the genoa poled out. The seas soon built up behind us and it became quite rough. We were happy to see the islands off Bahia Algadones ahead of us and turned into the large bay, with a long, curving beach backed with hotels and holiday resorts. We anchored behind Isla San Luis in 17-24 knots of westerly wind and stayed there for two nights. Shortly afterwards, Wetbar arrived and anchored nearby. In the early hours of the morning, I heard an almighty bang and was sure something had hit us or the anchor chain had snapped. Jeremy and I checked everything with torches and could find nothing wrong and nothing missing. It was hard to sleep after that scare.

Local fisherman at Isla Pajaros

Wetbar went into Marina Real on the other side of the bay and we stayed where we were. The wind abated during the second night and we were able to leave the next morning in calm weather.

He was moving, but I don't think he has the halyard tension right

We motored past the best Mirador (Viewpoint) in the world (according to the local Tourist Information) and skirted Bahia San Carlos on our way to Bahia Guaymas, 21 miles away. We noted the power station ahead with hundreds of pylons disappearing over the hills; we passed the petro-chemical works and the big fishing port and we wondered why the sea water had turned turquoise when the depth stayed the same. Beyond all the industry and the commercial port lay rugged mountains and a desert landscape peppered with cacti. After some discussion, we decided to anchor in the outer harbour off Isla Pajaros. The only drawback to this well-protected spot was the strong smell of rotting fish which pervaded the air.

The view from Marina Fonatur at Guaymas

On Monday 16^th April, we had some difficulty weighing anchor as it was stuck on some unknown underwater obstruction. Once free of it, we motored across Guaymas Harbour and anchored off Marina Seca Guaymas, the boatyard where Sal Darago will be hauled out on 30^th April. We went ashore by dinghy, met friendly Ariana in the marina office, had lunch at nearby Kotoyl restaurant, bought basic groceries at Oxxo and chatted to Mike in the boatyard. He warned us not to anchor in Guaymas Harbour as there had been some thefts recently, mainly of outboard engines and dinghies. We took his advice and returned to Isla Pajaros for a second night. Fortunately, the smell of rotting fish had gone and we avoided underwater obstructions when we anchored.

The Malecon, Guaymas

The next day we motored back into the harbour and tied up in Marina Fonatur. One yacht, La Brisa, was there. At the marina office, the manager was surprised that we had not made a reservation. He booked us in for three nights. Half the slips were lost in a hurricane two years ago, but the buildings are intact and there are hot showers. We have done our laundry, checked out Home Depot, found several supermarkets, cafes and restaurants, been on local buses, booked on the long distance bus to Tucson, USA and I have had my hair cut. Tomorrow, we leave for a week or so to explore San Carlos but in the words taken from The Terminator, “We’ll be back!”

Kathy outside the Town Hall

Spot the loony? AND guess where he is.

Puerto Penasco to Bahia los Perros

Cabo Tapoca

We left Puerto Penasco at 0400 on Wednesday 4^th April. We motorsailed in mainly light SE winds avoiding pangas putting out fishing pots on the way. We had to fight off brown seabirds that wanted to hitch a ride on SD. Our destination was Bahia Tepoca, which we reached in time to watch the sunset over the village.

Sunset Cabo Tapoca

We were up early again the next morning and left at 0240. It was very calm. Long lines of reddish brown water indicated that the plankton had bloomed. SD passed through it with no problems. I saw a turtle. The pelicans and gulls must have had a feeding frenzy because they just drifted on the sea ignoring fish jumping all around them.

The Pond

 We anchored in The Pond on Isla Estanque, which is off the SE end of Isla Angel de Guarda. We stayed for three nights, completely undisturbed until quite early on the morning of Sunday 8^th April, when two pangas tied up ahead of us in thick fog. One came alongside just before they left and asked for batteries. Jeremy gave them four AAs.

Small lagoon within The Pond

 We had a lovely time in The Pond swimming and snorkelling and walking on Isla Estanque. Jeremy saw a fender and descended a rocky slope to retrieve it from the beach below. The weather was hot and the sea felt like it was warming up at last.

Sundowners in The Pond

We deferred leaving until after lunch when the fog cleared to give us over half a mile visibility. Cruisers have to be careful entering and leaving The Pond as there is only 5feet beneath the keels at low water. We sounded out and were soon on our way to Isla Partida, just thirteen miles away. We identified Roca Blanca which stands north of the northern anchorage and saw a rare sight ahead. It was a cruising yacht, the first we’d seen since Charlie in Punta el Alacran.

Pangueros

The yacht was called Tinmar and the crew, Ed and Charlene, came aboard and had sundowners with us. They had an interesting kayak powered by foot pedals. There was no fog.

Isla Esteban

That all changed the next morning when we woke to a pea souper. We left just before 0700 and used radar to identify Roca Blanca. We had about 100 yards visibility and blew the foghorn every few minutes as well as keeping watch. Some dolphins passed by. By 1000 the fog had cleared and we could see Isla Esteban ahead. We rounded the north end and anchored in the east bay at 1340. The gypsy on the anchor windlass jammed three times. Jeremy greased it later.

The arroyo Isla Esteban

We decided to go for a walk and rowed the dinghy to the shingle spit at the south end of the bay. There is an arroyo or dried river bed which leads to the interior of the island. Walking was tough on sand and gravel, but fairly flat for a change and there was lots of vegetation. We noticed many footprints but no-one was around and we were the only boat at anchor. We found a place where many stones had been carefully placed in geometric patterns and we wondered if it was a sacred place for the Seri Indians.

Spot the cruise ship

The next morning, Tuesday 10^th April, at first light, Jeremy looked out of the saloon window and said, “What would you say if I told you there were 15 picnic chairs on the beach and people on the bluff above looking at us?” I said, “I think you’re hallucinating!” I looked out and there they were with binoculars and cameras. There were no boats on the beach. If this were a pantomime someone would have said, “It’s behind you!” Sure enough, a small cruise ship called National Geographic Seabird, was anchored behind us with black inflatable boats tied alongside. We hadn’t heard a thing as it anchored and transferred guests to the shore to witness the sunrise, which was just beginning.

Roca la Foca

We left them to it and motored into the sunrise heading for Bahia los Perros (Dogs) on the SE side of Isla Tiburon, 20 miles away. We motored through the passage between Isla Tiburon and the amusingly named Roca la Foca (Seal), rounded the SE point of Tiburon, avoided pangas and fishing pots and anchored in the southern lobe of the bay. Some pangueros kindly removed a fishing pot that was close to the anchorage. They spent the night in tents at their fishing camp in the northern lobe. We swam to the shore and I wore my wetsuit. The underwater visibility was poor, but worth the swim. Afterwards, Jeremy scrubbed SD’s keels in the warm and sunny weather, while I checked the waterline. We did not go ashore as Isla Tiburon is a special island belonging to the Seri Indians. You need a permit to land and a Seri guide.