We were meant to be leaving Portosin by bus early on Saturday to visit Santiago De Compostela, but at 0400 a small gale passed through necessitating Jeremy adjusting the fenders and removing the Hydrovane wind thingy. At 0645 when Kathy was supposed to be getting up, it was still lashing down and blowing a hoolie. We slept on.

By ten ish we had found a bus stop “Donda est l’autoboos a Compostela, por favor?” The bus came. We arrived at Noya and immediately caught the bus to Compostela. At this point we discovered the map was …. On the boat. The nearest Tourist Info office was the other side of the fairly large and decidedly hilly city. Fortunately a bus information office had a map and we set off on our Pilgrim’s Route to the Catedral of Saint Iago (St James). It was raining and the streets were narrow and dark. Eventually the sun came out, we crossed a busy road and entered a different, almost medieval, centre. Every building felt ancient and the streets were paved in flag stones. There was a maze of illogical streets which led into small “squares” often with seven or so exits. All very confusing. And then in front of us was the University of Compostela and opposite the Catedral.

After a little snack, we joined a short queue to enter the shrine. The queue grew longer. (actually the Lambton worm would have had difficulty in keeping pace – North East reference). The doors were flung open and in we all went. It was very crowded – rather noisy and “Catholic-ly” impressive. {This may be edited by the PC policia} There were many corners of interest and it was lovely to see a baby about to be christened in one of the side chapels.

Outside again, Jeremy was approached by a young woman and a clip board. He dutifully filled in his name and address and came to the last column – “donacion”. A Frenchman came to his rescue and told the woman she was a “thief” and he would get the “policia”. Jeremy crossed his name off and the woman gave the Frenchman some choice advice, which one did not have to be Spanish to understand, but she did disappear sharpish. On reflection, Jeremy decided filling in one’s name and address, whilst on holiday, could lead to a criminal organisation to burgle one’s home wherever it was in the world. Is this a good business idea? More sleepless nights.

We did a turn round the Catedral taking in the sights. The fabulous Horse Fountain; the myriad buskers; the impoverished begging woman sitting dejectedly outside the Catedral entrance; the winos; the throng of international tourists; as well as the truly inspiring architecture.

After a coffee we caught the bus back to Portosin and at last managed to connect to the internet. Hasta luego.

Pictures at last!

Ready to Leave Hesketh Bank.

Kathy at Drake's Pool, Crosshaven

Sunset before the gale.

Near miss after VHF call.

The End of the World

We left La Coruna at 0830, hoping to do a big day’s sail to Portosin about 90 miles. The wind had other ideas and we bashed forever into a relentless head wind again. Kathy and I were getting rather fed up with regular sea showers as almost every wave broke over the sprayhood. So by the time we had passed Cabo Villano (our waypoint from Cork approximately one week ago!), we sensibly decided to put into Ria de Camarinas. In the southern corner, there was a small fishing town and port, well sheltered from the southerly wind. As we put in to the harbour, a local fishing boat pointed out a buoy we could use and we gratefully rested the night there.

As dawn broke, we slept on. Well it’s meant to be a kind of holiday isn’t it?
HAPPY BIRTHDAY ELLEN (Kathy’s Mum).
Anyhows, by 0645 Kathy was limbering up and I followed slowly. We left at 0830 and set out into the Atlantic again. This time there was little wind, but we able to pass close to the famous Cabo Finisterre, the End of The Known World for the Romans. We had a gloriously smooth passage to Portosin, where we are in a busy marina, with some new found Norwegian friends next to us (We met them in La Coruna). We’ve eaten, showered and hopefully soon we will be able to access the internet, before bussing off to the THIRD MOST IMPORTANT CHRISTIAN PLACE IN THE WORLD tomorrow.

On an editorial note – if you can see comment somewhere on this page, it would be really great to hear from you. Just click on the word comment and you can write what you want. This will let us know that only Simon and Emily are reading it! Just a word of warning for those of you unfamiliar with blogging – the site can be read by anyone, so don’t leave us your bank details. (Send them in a letter ;-))

The Rain in Spain falls mainly on Sal Darago!

It’s warmer in Spain than in Scotland but it still rains and you need full ocean waterproofs when sailing to keep warm and dry!

After 9 days waiting for the wind to stop blowing from the south the forecast told us northerlies were expected and might last for several days. There was another front lurking in the Atlantic but we thought if we could get as far south as possible we should miss the worst of it. We left Drake’s Pool on 7th August, said a quick hello to Jonny and Kate in Newtsville, who are sailing from Fleetwood to the Caribbean and beyond, and ventured out to sea again.

Soon we had the ghoster and the genoa poled out and the engine on making all speed southwards to avoid the gale forecast for Sole. I was on watch when our Neco autopilot stopped working! Fortunately, it was just the fuse that had popped, but we would have to be careful not to put too much stress on it especially in a following sea. By the afternoon the wind had backed to the west and strengthened. The poles came down, the ghoster was stowed and we were close hauled with the main sail and the genoa only and no engine. By evening we had two reefs in the main, the Hydrovane wind vane was steering and we were both feeling seasick.

Lighter winds returned the next day but they continued to back until we had 20 knots from the south and we were 34 degrees off our course. The next day, Saturday 9th August, we were pleased to have 20 knots of wind. We recorded much stronger ones, up to 32 knots, from the SSW. Many waves came into the cockpit and over the roof. A large green ship came up behind us on a collision course. I called her on the VHF and she altered course to avoid us. We switched on our tricolour navigation light and nothing happened, so we had to use our bow and stern lights with a masthead light and keep a close watch on the battery levels. The next day, Sunday, was calmer with blue skies and sunshine. I stopped taking Stugeron and felt that I had my “sea legs” at last. I ate Cornflakes for the first time since leaving Ireland. I think this was the best day, the only incident being the collapse of the Hydrovane at 6am, on my watch again. I had to wake Jeremy up. He discovered the collapse was due to a loose nut and correct steerage was soon returned.

Simon’s birthday began with a beautiful night sail with calm seas and the moon lighting a pathway for us. By 9.00am it was raining as heavily as it did on his 21st birthday last year and we both said we could have gone north for this sort of weather! Jeremy made the mistake of shaking one reef out of the main sail. One and a half hours later he was struggling to put it back in. We had to call another ship on the VHF, which was on a collision course with us, and it was worrying when the helmsman said he could not see our white sails against the white sea! We were in gale and near gale conditions making no progress south or west, in danger of being run down by massive container ships so the only sensible decision was to make for La Corunna, Spain, about 60 miles to the east. We certainly started moving, surfing down waves with a following sea and winds of 25-30 knots. Just after midnight we had to take the main sail down as the wind shifted and made a mockery of a “controlled” gybe. In the end we had bare poles and the engine on as we rolled our way to La Corunna.

We are enjoying our second day here in sunshine, trying to learn a little Spanish, checking the boat over, shopping and washing. Tomorrow we might set off again, coast hopping this time. I fancy visiting Santiago de Compostello, especially as our church in Wrightington, St James the Great, is named after the same apostle. Until next time hasta luego!

Mostly Ready to go.

So we have spent a day trailing around Cork in an effort to buy a new banjo bolt for the fuel filter without success. We are nearly back at the boat and are hoping that the weather will permit us to leave on Wednesday, or at least before the end of the week. We are both well, but despite the beauty and safety of Drake's Pool, Harbour Rot is beginning to set in. So fingers crossed that the forecast for the next few days is good. Unfortunately the forecast for Sole an area just to the South of us is " South Westerly 5 to 7 perhaps gale 8 later". Maybe we shall try on Thursday and have a day on board relaxing tomorrow.

We have a picture or two, but they were left on the boat - sorry. We are considerably better at walking and reading bus timetables. Interestingly, motor factors are the same in England - long wait and they don't have the exact part required ;-D

TUESDAY 29^TH JULY, 2008. Happy Birthday Emily.

Sal Darago has made good time coming down from the Isle of Man on engine mostly against a very polite, easy, head wind. We left Port St Mary on Friday afternoon and anchored for four hours north of Lambay Island, near Howth. The seagull colonies were up early all shouting “mine” in unison. At 0810 we left Lambay to take the last of the tide to an anchorage south of Dublin called Dalkey Island. We were to sleep through the very warm afternoon. This time we realised the world and his wife and their children come from Dublin to Dalkey Island on warm July afternoons.

At 1700 we upped the anchor and set off south again with the tide. Just before nightfall we approached Mizen Head (No, not that Mizen Hd, the one just north of Arklow{€33 per night}). The wind was SE and the “anchorage” was exposed so we carried on to Arklow, sneaking into the old fishing harbour.

There was a young lady from BUTE

Whom we found was exceptionally cute,

Our ropes she did take

And fast did us make

That wonderful lady from Bute.

Kathy and I crashed out but the alarms rang at 0550. At 0600 we left Arklow; no young lady to help in the morning. There were beautiful blue skies interspersed with dense fog patches so the radar was on and off all day. As we were going to Kilmore Quay, Kathy and I decided to be decadent and have a shower each. The tanks quickly emptied. As we approached St Patrick’s Bridge, Kathy said she did not mind going on to Dunmore East about another three hours. Arriving at Dunmore East at 1824, a man on “Peionie” pointed out a mooring we could use overnight. After another delicious meal, Kathy and I went ashore and bought a very few supplies from Londis, open at 2145.

After a delectable lie in until 0630 and a leisurely breakfast, we set off with a strong wind behind us. Once away from Hook Head, the wind eased, the genoa had to be furled and the main held centrally to stop Sal Darago slopping about, while the Vetus pushed us along at 5 knots. This time we continued past our intended destination of Youghal (Yawl), because Dublin, Rosslaire, Minehead and Cork Coastguard Radio kept forewarning of strengthening SE/SW winds and heavy rain TOMORROW. The pilot book said that there were no customs in Kinsale and thus we decided to head for the Solent of Ireland – Crosshaven, Cork. We passed all the expensive boats in the marinas, including the Royal Cork Yacht Club (did Eire have Monarchs?) and wound our way to Drake’s Pool up the wooded Owenboy River, where we spent a delightfully quiet night on the only yellow mooring on the river.

Today it has poured all day – west coast of Scotland style- and Kathy and I have been snug in Sal Darago except when we ventured out for water from a nearby tap. Moral – never have a shower on board unless attached to a tap already.

Into the last week

Kathy has now finished working for nine months and has at last put some clothes on board. At one point I thought she might be voyaging as a naturalist, but no such luck ;-) Sadly neither of the cars has sold and we now have to quickly work out how to insure them as goods rather than cars - they used to do fire and theft, but that's a while ago. Just as well we hadn't sold the Focus, because it was full to the brim on Saturday with K's clothes, diesel fuel oil, yet more water and two huge bags of tins. It may have been lighter to go for the dried, ready meals option, but I have not seen them in the local supermarket. Quite a few of the "ARC" reports mention them as being varied and tasty - unless you know differently.



And so to the problem. Yes you guessed it - me. On Monday last week I had to go to the dentist, because of an infected tooth. To say that it was sore would be to say Mt Everest was a hill. After he had drilled out the infected filling, screwed out the nerves and covered the whole thing in some sort of DDT disinfectant, he let me go. I was really pleased that he hadn't removed the tooth until the anaesthetic had worn off. I was poorly, very poorly. This Monday, I have to return to the nice, kind dentist to have "root canal" work on the tooth. Apparently this is completely painless if you are dead.



Our intended leaving date was Wed/Thurs 23/24, but if I suffer as I did last week, then we shall not be leaving until later. Yes I know I am a geriatric weakling, but believe me - of all the ailments I have suffered - an infected tooth is the one that I can cope with the least even in the cradle of my own comfortable home. To have a similar ailment in the middle of the Bay of Biscay, does not bear thinking about.



Kathy is ready; Sal Darago is ready; only I am dragging my heels and hoping that the dentist leaves me in one piece as he waves me farewell. Oh - that and the fact there has been a gale warning out in the Irish Sea, so we would have been waiting anyway. Who knows, the next blog, we might be in Ireland.