Friday, 18 August 2023

Tobermory, Isle of Mull to Loch a Choire

 

Cuddles on Sal Darago
We left Loch Aline at 0700 on Monday 24th July and motored up the Sound of Mull in cold, light WNW winds. Jeremy steered through the Narrows between Calve Island and Mull with only one metre under our keels. He blew his grandfather’s WW1 bugle to sound our arrival. We picked up a Tobermory Harbour Association mooring buoy and went ashore. The usual daily charge for a buoy is £17 per night for an 11m boat. We decided to buy 10 nights at the discounted price of £14 per night. We paid our fee at the Harbour Office in Tobermory Aquarium building near the marina at Ledaig.

 

Swimming at Loch na Droma Buidhe
Afterwards, we walked up the steep Prison Brae to the cottage. We had bags of laundry and our showering gear. Em, Ben and the girls had gone camping for a few days, so we had the cottage to ourselves. We made good use of the washing machine, the new electric cooker and the super duper new shower in the totally refurbished bathroom. Jeremy’s brother, Gavin, and his wife, Eileen, had sourced everything needed for the new bathroom. Our next door neighbour, Hughie, agreed to supervise the job of stripping out the old bathroom and putting in the new one. Thank you Gavin, Eileen, Hughie and the other tradespeople for an amazing transformation.

 

Kathy emerging from Loch na Droma Buidhe

In addition, Gavin and Eileen sourced a new electric cooker to replace the old calor gas one, new pans, a new electric water heater and a new electric towel rail.

Em, Ben and the girls returned the next day. We joined them for supper. It was wonderful to be reunited again after seven months apart. We had missed the lovely night time cuddles from Ellie and Sophie.

 

Setting out on our trek
The following morning we collected the family, their many bags and four body boards at the marina and motored over to Loch na Droma Buidhe. We explored the burn and the beach leaving our names in cockle shells on the rocks on the shore. Later on, we all swam from Sal Darago wearing wet suits, except for Jeremy. The water was cold.

 

Fabulous views from the top of the hill.
Em had booked a session for four of us at Mull Pony Trekking for the afternoon of Thursday 27th July. Liz Henderson runs the centre. She had broken her collar bone in a fall from a horse only 3 weeks before, but was still managing to work as she had a number of helpers. Jeremy came along to lead Sophie. Em, Ellie and I joined Sophie and a couple of other riders in a peaceful and enjoyable hill trek.

 

Family reunion at Macgochans, Tobermory
The next day we collected the family from the marina once more. This time they had even more bags as they were going to spend two nights on Sal Darago. The weather forecast was not good, so we decided to go to the head of Loch Sunart. We anchored just before the Narrows off Eilean Garbh, where Em saw a sea eagle. Jeremy booked us all into Kilcamb Lodge Hotel for Em’s birthday lunch. We were able to pick up a mooring for a £5 donation at Strontian and walk about a mile to the hotel. It rained, but nobody minded as we were warm and cosy in the Driftwood Bistro and the lounge at Kilcamb Lodge. We could stay as long as we wanted.

 

Em's birthday at Kilcamb Lodge

As we motored from Strontian to Salen Loch Sunart, the rain lashed down and the wind strengthened. Ben phoned ahead and booked a berth at the marina for the night. After a walk in sunshine in the forest the next day, we had lunch at the Salen Hotel before returning to Tobermory.

Meanwhile, our nephew Jamie, his wife, Juliette, daughter, Anna and son, Daniel had arrived in Tobermory. We had two great days out with them. There were 10 of us on board Sal Darago for a day trip to Loch na Droma Buidhe, where we had a picnic lunch. Ellie, Sophie, Jamie and his family braved the cold water for a swim.

 

Kilninian Kirk near the black sands beach
That evening, back in Tobermory, Em, Ben, Ellie, Sophie, Jeremy and I had a meal at Cafe Fish. Jeremy and I took the girls back to the cottage and put them to bed. It’s a long time since we read bedtime stories together. 

 

West Highland Race yachts rafted up at Tobermory Marina
The next day was the last day of the holiday for Em, Ben, Ellie and Sophie. It was a dry day so we all set off for the beach along with Jamie and family. Three barbecues were set up and everyone ate and drank heartily. Jeremy and I went for a walk and later joined everyone back at the beach for a swim and a game of cricket. We had a great day.
Eating out at The Western Isles Hotel
On our return the West Highland Race had arrived in Tobermory. The wind was blowing strongly from the NE and all the yachts were pitching and rolling in the bay and in the marina. We had difficulty clambering on to Sal Darago and had a fairly uncomfortable few hours before the wind changed direction.


Glensanda Quarry, Loch Linnhe

The next couple of days were spent doing laundry and tidying the garden at the cottage. We said goodbye to our neighbours, Fiona and Hughie and to John and Eilidh. It’s always sad to be leaving Tobermory but we still had a long way to go to our home in Suffolk.

 

The Boathouse Restaurant, Loch a Choire
We weighed anchor at 0645 on Sunday 6th August and motorsailed to Loch a Choire near Loch Linnhe. Jeremy had booked us into the Boathouse Restaurant. We had some difficulty anchoring and later learned that we could have used one of the new moorings which we saw nearby. The meal was delicious.


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