Sailing Round the World on Sal Darago: British Virgin Islands

Don't try this at home!

While waiting in Simpson Bay Lagoon for our new, long shrouds to be ready, Jeremy replaced the exit pipe on the heads (toilet). It’s probably the most unpleasant job on the boat and it hadn’t been done for a while. Better to do it while in the safety of the lagoon than bouncing around in the waves and swell out at sea. The flange connecting the pipe to the holding tank broke and we didn’t have a spare. Well, it’s amazing what you can do with a vacuum cleaner extension pipe when you have to! It was the only tube on board of the same diameter. We had working heads once more. Quite a relief!

The bridge to French St Martin

There were a few hitches when Jeremy went up the mast to fix the new, long shrouds in place. The two new clevis pins were too wide to go through the fitting at the top of the mast. The next day, we went to Budget Marine and bought new clevis pins. Once more Jeremy went up the mast. While he was there he changed the spinnaker halyard block.

Simpson Bay Yacht Club, Sint Maarten

All that was left to do was to replace the caps and covers on the ends of the cross trees. Jeremy could reach the end of the cross tree on his right and secure the cap fitting with one hand. In order to fix the opposite cap, he had to secure himself to a halyard and ease himself away from the mast. He was wearing a harness as well and this was tethered to the mast. By leaning out as far as he could, he replaced the cap and shroud cover. He wasn’t amused when I asked him when he was going to join a circus! Finally, all was fixed and the canvas mast steps could come down.

Sunset on the way to the BVI's

Having filled up with diesel and water at the fuel berth, we weighed anchor and exited Simpson Bay lagoon on Thursday 11^th May. We anchored outside of the lagoon and took the dinghy to the Customs dock to clear out and pay $7 to the Port Authority. Back on Sal Darago, we prepared for our night passage to the British Virgin Islands, just over 90 miles away. A Dutch couple from S/V Avalon wished us good luck and safe passage.

The Pub, Tortola, BVI's

We motored for four hours and sailed the rest until we were approaching the BVI’s. A yacht and some fishing vessels caused us some concern as they closed in on us until they eventually passed us or turned away. We anchored off the Customs/ferry dock at Tortola, BVI’s, at 1130 on Friday 12^th May. We went ashore in the dinghy. The dock was exposed to the prevailing winds making conditions very bouncy. Checking in on the computer took a long time. Unfortunately, the system used in the BVI’s was different from the system used in Antigua. We were helped by a very patient Customs Officer. Jeremy paid $26 to Immigration and $36 to the Port Authority. Lunch at Pusser’s Rum Shop and Restaurant afterwards was most welcome.

Can you see Sal Darago?

On Saturday, 13^th May we stocked up at a local supermarket and had lunch in The Pub at Conch Charters dock. We had lunch in the same place on the same date nine years ago. The first floor balcony, where we sat, overlooked the dinghy dock and the marina below. In the afternoon, we motored in strong winds up the Sir Francis Drake Channel to Virgin Gorda. The first anchorage, near The Baths, was not viable as we had coral beneath us. The second anchorage off the main town called Spanish Town or Village was fine and only a mile from The Baths, where I wanted to spend my birthday morning.

Jeremy at The Baths

The only drawback was getting up at 0530. Such an early start meant we were the first to arrive at the National Park mooring buoys off The Baths. Anchoring is not allowed and dinghies may not be left on the beach.

Kathy at The Baths

Jeremy was able to drop me off on the beach, but he had to tie the dinghy up outside of the swimming area and swim 100 metres back to the beach.

Beautiful Devil's Bay

We wandered along a trail through some stunning, giant boulders and caves to Devil’s Bay. It was fabulous to have all of this to ourselves.

We had a snack and as we were leaving, we saw a fully laden tourist boat approaching. We walked back to The Baths beach. Jeremy swam out to the dinghy and I was to meet him at Devil’s Bay.

Candlelit birthday supper

Unfortunately, a one-way system had been put in place and I soon found I was going the wrong way. Returning to Devil’s Bay was difficult as long lines of tourists descended the ladders in one of the caves. After a long wait, a member of staff let me through and I met up with Jeremy. He had been trying to avoid sunburn, while waiting for me by going into the sea and hiding under the dinghy.

Hurricane damaged house

I had a memorable birthday. Back at the anchorage, we went ashore and had a Caribbean lunch at the Mermaid and Pirate. We were looking for the Mermaid Dockside and found out later that it had been destroyed in a recent hurricane. Later, back on SD, Jeremy made a delicious smoked salmon supper, which we ate in our candlelit cockpit.