La Reunion

 

Supplies arriving by helicopter above Dos d'Anne

At present all international boats must clear in and out at Le Port. It might be possible to have a short stay in St Pierre with permission from the harbourmaster, but this would have to be arranged in advance. It is hoped that new pontoons will be built in St Pierre. No construction work has started yet.

It's a long way down to Riviere Galets

After stocking up with food at U Express and Carrefour, we went to SFR on the main street and bought SIM cards. We chose cards with calls and 5gb data for 2 weeks at a cost of 22 euros each. There are other options. We went to a pharmacy nearby and bought some recommended waterproof and breatheable dressings for my leg.

Mafat from Roche Verre Bouteille

There are laundry facilities at the old marina near the Capitainerie. A key and tokens are available from the Capitainerie. There are other options in town. We like Eco laverie, which is about 20 minutes walk away. You can use euros or a bank card. Jeremy knew that we were running out of cooking gas, but it proved impossible to fill the Australian bottle or the British blue calor gas bottle commercially.

The view from Roche Verre Bouteille

Now that we had tried to complete the essentials it was time to explore La Reunion. We hired a car for five days at Bourbon in the main street for 150 euros. Jeremy drove (on the right) to the capital St Denis. We were able to exchange our Mauritian rupees and our Australian dollars at Western Union, then on to Decathalon for new walking shoes. Just about anything recreational or sporting can be bought at this store. Provisioning for the next passage to South Africa needed to be done, so we went to the massive Carrefour hypermarket and wore ourselves out walking around it.

Halfway lunch break on Tour de Piton Lelesse

With only fumes left in our gas bottle, we were getting desperate. Only one size (large) gas bottles can be purchased or exchanged. However, there was a man on the marina who could help. He doesn’t speak English, but communicates quite well. The marina staff have his details. We used his equipment to fill a British bottle

Le Port from Dos d'Anne

La Reunion’s three cirques, Salazie, Cilaos and Mafat, have World Heritage status. We have walked in all three in the past. The village of Dos d’Anne is one of the nearest places to Le Port for hikes and it can be reached by bus or car. We drove there and saw magnificent views of Mafat from Roche Verre Bouteille.

Feeling my way down the marked path

The next day we were up early on local advice and in the car by 0630. It took two hours to drive through St Denis to Salazie and on through Hellbourg to Ilet a Vidot. The road becomes increasingly narrow, steep and full of hairpin bends as you drive deeper into the mountains. We did a circular hike called Tour du Piton Lelesse. Do not believe the book. It said 9.5km in 4 hours. We took 7 hours. Jeremy’s phone recorded 20km and my smart watch recorded 14.5km. It was a challenge but I’m glad we did it and I was pleased with my leg that did much better than my knees! I think we took 3 days to recover.

Our hire car at the start and finish of Tour de Piton Lelesse

Do you recall from a previous blog post a random meeting with two people from Reunion? David invited us to his house in St Leu for lunch. We drove to St Pierre first to see the marina for ourselves and talk to the harbourmaster. Friends whom we had met in the past had sold their boat and moved on. The wind was strong, the air full of salt and the waves were breaking heavily on the reef.

Harbour entrance, St Pierre

We had a lovely, relaxed lunch at David’s house sitting on his decking, admiring the view and chatting to his daughter and friends. Davy Stolk is a famous South African surfer and Brett is a gifted South African carpenter who was replacing David’s old decking. Amazingly, David went to the same university as us ie Durham, admittedly 20 years apart. Even more surprising, he went to the same college as us, Hild Bede and lived in Bede for a while. Later this week, David is going to sample lunch on Sal Darago. Will there be more coincidences?

Davy, Brett, David, Kathy, Jeremy

Last night, Jeremy and I were invited to a leaving party for the crew of S/V Endo. About 20 people gathered on the edge of the marina for drinks and snacks. Almost all were speaking French except for our immediate neighbours who kindly spoke English with us.

We might leave La Reunion next week around the same time as Endo. It all depends on the weather.

Rodrigues to La Reunion

The first time we visited Rodrigues we met an interesting woman called Birgite. She washed our laundry and it was the cleanest we’d had returned anywhere. We made some enquiries, found Birgite and arranged to meet for lunch at Kafe Rose. We ate and chatted for almost two hours. This time we made sure we exchanged phone numbers, so we can keep in touch.

Pre lunch coffees

We had heard that the Queen was ill at Balmoral. Like the rest of the UK and most of the world we were shocked that she died shortly afterwards on 8^th September. May she rest in peace with her husband Prince Philip. After such a long life of service, it feels like the end of an era. We flew our ensign at half mast.

We went ashore and visited the offices of Immigration and Customs. We were told officers would come to the jetty the following Monday and we could clear out. Afterwards, we caught a bus to Gravier and walked 5.4km to St Francois. This was a coastal walk but it had it’s ups and downs including a scramble up a near vertical rock face!

Waiting for Bergite at Kafe Rose

On the way we met David and Frederique, who live in Reunion. We had a short conversation with them and gave them our contact details. Perhaps we would meet them again in La Reunion.

First long walk in a while

I was very pleased with my leg, which gave less trouble than my knees! Apparently, by the end of the day we’d walked 8.6km. We were fortunate to be given a lift to Mount Lubin (not far from Port Mathurin) as the 1420 bus did not come. A Dutch ketch called Luciparaz with Floris and Ivor on board was tied to the wharf in the harbour.

On the way to St Francois

Two days later, we were up at 0500 ready to weigh anchor and move out of the harbour until the supply ship, Black Rhino, had berthed. Ted from Serengeti called the coastguard as there was no vessel visible on AIS for 21 miles. Soon afterwards, Black Rhino called the coastguard to say they expected to arrive at 0800! Consequently, we didn’t have to leave the harbour until 0730.

Walking in Rodrigues

We checked out, had lunch and left Rodrigues on Monday 12^th September. Once we were clear of the big swells on the surrounding reef, we had a good passage for most of the four day sail to La Reunion. We sailed south of Mauritius, crossed a shipping route that went between the two islands, and soon caught sight of the mountains of La Reunion.

Twin headsails all the way

On our last day and night the sunny weather gradually gave way to cloud and rain on the horizon. The wind increased as darkness fell. We reefed down as the wind reached 29 knots behind. At this rate, we’d be in Le Port de Galets by midnight. Once we were on the west coast of La Reunion, the wind appeared to switch off and calm was restored. All sails and poles were taken down and the port called on VHF 16; no response, so we called the French Coastguard and were told the port was closed until 0800. We could not enter until then and there was nowhere to anchor!

Ideal cruising conditions

We took turns to watch the helm as we drifted outside the port for the next 8 hours. There was still no response to our call on VHF 16 in the morning, so we entered anyway and headed toward the Office du Capitainerie. A member of staff shouted from the quay to turn around and go to the new marina where we were expected and we should use VHF 09. 

At 0900 a member of staff took our lines and secured us to pontoon 05. Angelique gave us a pack and electronic keys and answered our questions. Later, Michael came by to say Customs were delayed. Customs and Immigration arrived together later that morning. Our papers were all in order and our passports were stamped. We were free to explore La Reunion.

Cocos to Rodrigues

Healing slowly

Apart from having to put a new dressing on my leg every day, what other challenges did we face on our passage to Rodrigues? The short answer is the swell, the wind and the waves. On the first night, we had winds gusting to 30 knots; that’s a force 7 on the Beaufort Scale, just short of a gale. We were on a reach with the wind just behind the beam. We had 2 reefs in the mainsail and the genoa was furled to a small triangle. The sea seemed to be all over the place with a 3 metres plus swell behind taking us up and down and a sideways swell with breaking wind waves on top powering into our port side. Some waves broke over us and we had plenty of water in the cockpit. Our trusty Hydrovane wind pilot steered through all of this while the person on watch jammed themselves under the sprayhood, taking refuge down below for some relief.

Big waves

We knew that July and August were not the best months to cross the South Indian Ocean. Unfortunately, we had little choice as we had to leave Australia by mid August or risk having to import Sal Darago with a large fee to pay. Visiting recreation craft are allowed to stay in Australian waters for three years and there did not seem to be any flexibility in this rule to allow for the effect of Covid and the closure of borders for two years. Jimmy Cornell wrote in his World Cruising Routes book that the winds can blow up to 30 knots in July and August for “days on end.” He was right.

Rough seas

Regular comments in our log were “strong and boisterous conditions”; “rough seas”; “very big swell”; “rough, breaking seas”; “wave half filled cockpit”; “scary at times.” I started taking Stugeron.

Making bread on passage

Jeremy was very worried about the new boat batteries. We’d had to run the engine for an hour every night as there was little sun for the solar panels. Each day the percentage charge decreased by 1% and neither the solar panels nor the alternator recognised that the batteries need more charge. It remains an ongoing problem.

Land ahoy! Rodrigues ahead

Fortunately, the second week of our passage was better. Some afternoons we had lighter winds and the sun shone. The swell decreased and less water came over. Then we had squalls but at least the wind on them was short lived although the rain could be heavy. A few large bulk carrying ships passed. Jeremy called one on the VHF radio as it was going to pass too close to us. On another day a ship called us and asked if we were ok in the swell. I think the response was “much better than last week”.

Anchored fairly close to the reef

We made a mince stew when we needed to and bread every two or three days. The wind blew from the ESE and the swell decreased. Jeremy took down the mainsail in the middle of the night and put up two poles and twin headsails. I struggled to adjust to the new rig when I went on watch at midnight. It was much better than before and I was grateful for a quieter night.

Port Mathurin

As we approached Rodrigues on Monday 29^th August, Mauritius Coastguard called us on VHF 16 and asked for our intentions. We said we’d like permission to enter the harbour at Port Mathurin. A little later permission was granted and we motored into the port with the engine threatening to cut out. Rust particles had been shaken up by the rough seas and could have blocked the fuel pipe. We breathed a sigh of relief as we entered the channel cut in the reef and tied up at the long ship wharf.

The ship wharf at Port Mathurin

We lost count of the officials that came on board. Health was first, then Coastguard, Customs, Immigration (we had to go to their office on the wharf) and Agriculture. Time passed, the tide rose and Sal Darago was lifted twice against a big metal eye on the wharf. There was a horrible crunching noise as the gel coat cracked on the deck toe rail. Two hours after our arrival, we were allowed to anchor in the harbour. We ate a late lunch and slept.

Sunset over the reef

Today (3^rd September) is our fifth day in Rodrigues. On our first full day, we went to the hospital and had my leg checked out. The injury is not infected but the medics were obviously concerned that it might become infected. So, I have been put on antibiotics, given an antibiotic cream and painkillers (even though it’s not painful) and I’ve been bandaged almost from knee to ankle. We’ve had lunch out several times, been to the supermarket and found a guest house that will do our laundry. Meanwhile, on SD, we’ve been mopping up and trying to track the source of any leaks. The radar mast supports have been re-bedded and all the saloon windows have been sealed. Lockers have been washed out and cushions dried.

The reef at low water

Our friends on Serengeti arrived a few days ago. We’re looking forward to catching up with them soon.

Cocos Keeling Islands

We snorkelled The Rip, Direction Island

We stayed at anchor at Direction Island until 15^th August. My leg became very swollen at the site of the injury and my ankle and foot changed colour to dark blue/black. There was no open wound so I suppose the internal bleeding had to go somewhere.

Coconut damage

Two days later the wind eased sufficiently to allow us to take our dinghy on the 40 minute trip across reefs to Home Island. We topped up our food supplies at the supermarket, had lunch and went to the medical centre in the afternoon. I saw a nurse first, followed by a doctor from New Zealand, who was called Gary. 

Using the WiFi at Pondok Indah, Home Island

They decided to scan my leg and foot. I was amazed to see an ultrasound scanner in this remote place, that is just a dot on the world map! Anyway, the scan confirmed that there was no fracture. I was reassured that my body would absorb the internal bleeding and my leg and foot should return to normal in about two weeks. The risk of infection was small as there was no open wound.

Socialising with Ted and Mia

Later in the day we met up with Ted and Mia from Serengeti and had delicious chicken stew ashore in one of the shelters on Direction Island. Over the next few days we had sundowners on each other’s boats and enjoyed chatting. It was good to be socialising again.

Dark interior of Direction Island

Unfortunately, Ted and Mia’s outboard motor motor stopped working and could not be repaired. This meant they were isolated at Direction Island, unable to go to Home Island for supplies except by ferry on Thursday and Saturday. We helped out when we could.

Kathy at West Island

We went to West Island on the Friday before our departure date and checked out at the police station. First we had to take the dinghy to Home Island, then we boarded a ferry to West Island followed by a bus to the village. Every two weeks a supply plane arrives and the supermarkets on Home and West Island stock their shelves with fresh produce. We saw the plane arrive but we knew nothing would be for sale until Saturday.

Jeremy at West Island

On Saturday, we took the dinghy to Home Island once again and stocked up for our passage to Rodrigues. The next day a catamaran called Begonia arrived with Kyle and Maryanne on board. They had to stay on the yellow quarantine buoy until Monday, but we were able to talk to them on the VHF.

Sal Darago with the lagoon beyond

Monday 15^th August was our departure day. Jeremy went over to Home Island to have our cooking gas bottle filled and I made a three day chicken stew in the pressure cooker. I had been wearing a compression sock on my injured leg. When I removed it, there was blood trickling down, so we now had to deal with an open wound with a risk of infection and a crossing of the Indian Ocean to Rodrigues 1,981 miles away.

Sal Darago anchored at Direction Island