Change of Plans

Sal Darago and tugboat MacLeod anchored at Teggs

Our sailing friend of five continents, Ann Lange, once said that the plans of cruisers are written on the sand below the high water mark. The tide has come in and wiped out our plan to cross the Indian Ocean, stopping at Cocos (Keeling) and Reunion Island.

Occasionally, a tram uses this bridge from the Railway Museum to Carnarvon

Only eight days after granting permission, the Indian Ocean Territories (IOT) revoked it. No reason was given. We were allowed to stop at Christmas Island instead but would have to quarantine on the boat. Our British friends on Zoonie, were sent a similar message. We both emailed to point out that Christmas Island was several days of sailing in the wrong direction and asked again for permission to stop at Cocos. Permission was denied. I tried telephoning and learned that fear of Covid-19 reaching Cocos was the main reason for the decision. The IOT personnel had seen that New Zealand had another outbreak after 100 Covid free days and the Australian state of Victoria had gone into lockdown as a second wave of the virus arrived. This made them nervous of receiving any visitors.

The old lighthouse at the Railway Museum

We were not looking forward to 35-40 days at sea, sailing direct to Reunion, but we decided it was doable and we were provisioned and ready. We observed the number of new cases of Covid-19 in Reunion and were horrified when the numbers jumped from single figures to 92 in less than two weeks.

Spot the Gascoyne River

So, with heavy hearts, we made the decision on Monday 24^th August (two days ago) not to go. Jeremy phoned Andrew at Carnarvon Australian Border Force(ABF) and cancelled our appointment to clear out on Friday. He phoned Zelka at the DoT boat harbour and cancelled our pen booking for Wednesday and Thursday. 
 

Pressure cooker valve restored

I phoned Avis and cancelled our hire car for Thursday, when we were going to provision with fresh food, do laundry and buy extra diesel. Today, Jeremy emailed ABF to let them know of our revised plans. He also emailed Jerome at Reunion Island cancelling the berth we had previously arranged.

Wind speed working again

After much discussion with friends and family, we have decided to find an affordable boatyard where we can haul out Sal Darago for a year. Then we’ll see if we can book a flight to the UK. The safest place to be with very few new Covid-19 cases is Western Australia, but we have already been living aboard for nine months and do not wish to be away from our home and family for a further twelve months.

Blue swimmer crabs given to us by passing fishermen

We are still in Carnarvon anchored in the Teggs channel. I have had my broken tooth fixed enduring one and a half hours in the dentist’s chair! Our parcels have arrived at the post office and Jeremy has been up the mast to replace the broken wind speed and direction instrument with the new one. Our pressure cooker works again with its new release valve.

The Gascoyne River flows underground most of the time

We have discovered some walking trails along the Gascoyne River bank and have visited the Railway Museum, the lighthouse keeper’s cottage and the one mile jetty. There is a cafe there serving breakfast and lunch. However, check before you walk out there as the first time we visited the cafe was closing for a private function and they could only offer us coffee and cake!

Huge numbers of shells shore up the river bank

Last Friday was a rare, calm evening and we were able to join the friendly folks at Carnarvon Yacht Club for drinks.

One mile jetty, sadly closed to the public for safety reasons

Fresh to strong southerlies have been blowing for several days now. When they ease we might return to Shark Bay for a while until we hear from the boatyards we are contacting. We hope to eat our way through 50 days of provisions before we leave. Does anyone want a bag or six of flour?