Saturday 25 January 2020

Davenport, Tasmania to Melbourne, Victoria

Mooring off Williamstown

It was 220nm to Williamstown, near Melbourne. We were at sea for two nights. The first day started well, but soon became rough with winds up to 30 knots in gusts. We had two reefs in the mainsail and a small genoa flying on a beam reach. Racing yachts would have been shouting, “Yippee!” I was reaching for the Stugeron after I had been soaked to my underwear by a wave that broke over me. We soon had intimate knowledge of the famous “haystacks” of the Bass Strait. The chart table was wet, the cockpit was drenched and it was cold. We were wearing full ocean waterproofs on top of several layers of clothing, thermal socks, wellies and woolly hats.
Busy Yarra River

We encountered several ships on our route. Most responded straight away to our calls on VHF radio, except for one that was on a collision course and only 12 minutes away at 0200 hours. After a frantic few minutes and a helpful call from another ship, I called again and this time there was a response and the ship steered to starboard.
Safely past the container ship

Day two at sea was better with the wind gradually easing to only 8 knots as we approached The Rip at Port Phillip Heads, the entrance to Port Phillip and the only way to Melbourne by sea. Jeremy had been working out the tides at The Rip, because it is important to arrive at slack water as the tide can run at 7 knots and conditions can be treacherous with a strong wind against the tide. We had intended to arrive as the ebb tide ended and enter Port Phillip with the beginning of the flood tide. We were 8 hours early, due to the fast pace of our passage from Tasmania and the sun had just set. Two green lights on Point Lonsdale lighthouse assured us that the tide was in the second half of the flood. As the wind was very light, we were fine to proceed, the only hazard being a large cruise ship, Silver Meuse, coming out. The Rip is only 0.6nm wide, so we couldn’t help being close.
CBD ahead

Twenty nine miles later, we looked for a mooring in the dark off Anchorage Marina, near Williamstown. We found one and tied to it at 0240 on 20th January. Heavy rain fell all day and strong winds blew. We learned later that it was the most rain Melbourne had experienced in one day since 2011. We made arrangements to go to a marina in Docklands in the CBD of Melbourne. We were allocated a berth in Yarra Edge Marina and made our way there the next day. We stayed there until Saturday enjoying the facilities provided: laundry, private bathrooms, kitchen, lounge, office area and TV. Towels and bathmats were also provided. The cost for all this was 60 AUD, about £35.
Interesting architecture

The highlight of our time in Melbourne was catching up with Clive and Margaret Sherwin. Clive is a former work colleague of ours from 30 years ago. It was a joy to have lunch at their home and exchange news of our lives since West Bank High School days.
Victoria Dock, a bit comic?

Melbourne was heaving as the Australian Open was on. We rode the free trams in the CBD area, including circular tram, number 35, which has a commentary describing places of interest as the tram passes them.
Margaret and Clive

We took part in a free three hour historical walking tour, where we learned about the history of Melbourne and saw various back lanes and buildings of interest.
The four of us

We ate out every day.
11 Inch Pizza

It rained again, brown rain this time. SD was covered in red/brown mud along with all of Melbourne and the surrounding area.
Yarra Edge Marina

Other places of interest we visited were the Museum of Immigration and the National Gallery of Australia in Federation Square.
View from Melbourne Gaol

On Friday night, we went to see the London National Theatre production of War Horse in the superbly restored Regents Theatre, having managed to buy cheaper tickets at a shop called Half Tix. It was a great production. The puppetry was amazing; the war scenes were harrowing, but I think only horse lovers can understand the special bond that drove Albert to search for his beloved horse, Joey.
Italian Quarter

We’re still in Port Phillip. Last night we anchored at Martha’s Cove. Today, we’re on a mooring off Sorrento. Tomorrow, we might be in Queenscliffe. Hopefully, there will be a weather window on Wednesday and we can continue our journey west to Portland Harbour.
One of Melbourne's arcades
 
Regents Theatre foyer

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