Sorrento to Portland

We decided to stay in Sorrento. We had the use of a mooring belonging to Building Products, Australia. Just by chance I had met one of the business partners in Marina Yarra Edge and he was happy for us to use the mooring. It was off a number of millionaire’s properties that had their own private jetties and salt water swimming pools and close to the edge of the 5 knot zone. Some inconsiderate boaters zoomed past creating a wake that sent us rocking. However, the worst wake came from the ferry called “Queenscliffe” as it left its berth and began to accelerate; the sister ferry, “Sorrento”, seemed much more considerate.

Brown rain stains on the genoa

Nearby, there was a public beach where we landed the dinghy. From there it was a short walk uphill through a park or along the shore to the ferry port and uphill to the town. We walked across the Mornington Peninsula to the “back beach” and watched the surf breaking from the Bass Strait. In the past steamers brought holidaymakers to Sorrento and a steam tram took them to the back beach. Today, the route is a tarmac road lined with private houses. We were able to buy supplies at Ritchie’s IGA supermarket, so we were ready for our next passage.

Sorrento Bay moorings

We left at first light at 0600 on Wednesday 29^th January. We had to negotiate The Rip once again. Slack water was at 0710 and we arrived at the right time. We met the ferry on the way and passed safely. About 30 or more small fishing boats zipped past us, so we had to keep a careful watch. We motorsailed through The Rip and continued motorsailing until 0300 the next day. A number of dolphins came to play at the bow; always delightful to see, but making us wary that bad weather was coming.

The back beach, Sorrento

We sailed for 5 hours watching the barometer drop from 1016hp to 1007. The wind backed during our passage from SW through SE, E, NNW to WNW. Thursday soon became hot and sunny. Jeremy called Scott, Portland Marina Manager, and organised a berth for us. Scott gave us Hugh’s number to arrange showers at nearby Portland Yacht Club. I called Hugh and arranged to pick up a key to PYC.

Marina side of Portland Harbour

We tied up at 1430. After a cuppa, we went to Tourist Information close to the marina. We had a quick look around the town, picked up the key from Hugh and had showers at the yacht club.

Portland Harbour with the commercial port in the distance

Yesterday, we used the laundrette and shopped at Woolworths. In the evening, we were invited to a games and pizza night at the yacht club and met many friendly locals.

The next weather window is likely to begin in the evening on Tuesday giving us enough time for a trip to Robe.

Davenport, Tasmania to Melbourne, Victoria

Mooring off Williamstown

It was 220nm to Williamstown, near Melbourne. We were at sea for two nights. The first day started well, but soon became rough with winds up to 30 knots in gusts. We had two reefs in the mainsail and a small genoa flying on a beam reach. Racing yachts would have been shouting, “Yippee!” I was reaching for the Stugeron after I had been soaked to my underwear by a wave that broke over me. We soon had intimate knowledge of the famous “haystacks” of the Bass Strait. The chart table was wet, the cockpit was drenched and it was cold. We were wearing full ocean waterproofs on top of several layers of clothing, thermal socks, wellies and woolly hats.

Busy Yarra River

We encountered several ships on our route. Most responded straight away to our calls on VHF radio, except for one that was on a collision course and only 12 minutes away at 0200 hours. After a frantic few minutes and a helpful call from another ship, I called again and this time there was a response and the ship steered to starboard.

Safely past the container ship

Day two at sea was better with the wind gradually easing to only 8 knots as we approached The Rip at Port Phillip Heads, the entrance to Port Phillip and the only way to Melbourne by sea. Jeremy had been working out the tides at The Rip, because it is important to arrive at slack water as the tide can run at 7 knots and conditions can be treacherous with a strong wind against the tide. We had intended to arrive as the ebb tide ended and enter Port Phillip with the beginning of the flood tide. We were 8 hours early, due to the fast pace of our passage from Tasmania and the sun had just set. Two green lights on Point Lonsdale lighthouse assured us that the tide was in the second half of the flood. As the wind was very light, we were fine to proceed, the only hazard being a large cruise ship, Silver Meuse, coming out. The Rip is only 0.6nm wide, so we couldn’t help being close.

CBD ahead

Twenty nine miles later, we looked for a mooring in the dark off Anchorage Marina, near Williamstown. We found one and tied to it at 0240 on 20^th January. Heavy rain fell all day and strong winds blew. We learned later that it was the most rain Melbourne had experienced in one day since 2011. We made arrangements to go to a marina in Docklands in the CBD of Melbourne. We were allocated a berth in Yarra Edge Marina and made our way there the next day. We stayed there until Saturday enjoying the facilities provided: laundry, private bathrooms, kitchen, lounge, office area and TV. Towels and bathmats were also provided. The cost for all this was 60 AUD, about £35.

Interesting architecture

The highlight of our time in Melbourne was catching up with Clive and Margaret Sherwin. Clive is a former work colleague of ours from 30 years ago. It was a joy to have lunch at their home and exchange news of our lives since West Bank High School days.

Victoria Dock, a bit comic?

Melbourne was heaving as the Australian Open was on. We rode the free trams in the CBD area, including circular tram, number 35, which has a commentary describing places of interest as the tram passes them.

Margaret and Clive

We took part in a free three hour historical walking tour, where we learned about the history of Melbourne and saw various back lanes and buildings of interest.

The four of us

We ate out every day.

11 Inch Pizza

It rained again, brown rain this time. SD was covered in red/brown mud along with all of Melbourne and the surrounding area.

Yarra Edge Marina

Other places of interest we visited were the Museum of Immigration and the National Gallery of Australia in Federation Square.

View from Melbourne Gaol

On Friday night, we went to see the London National Theatre production of War Horse in the superbly restored Regents Theatre, having managed to buy cheaper tickets at a shop called Half Tix. It was a great production. The puppetry was amazing; the war scenes were harrowing, but I think only horse lovers can understand the special bond that drove Albert to search for his beloved horse, Joey.

Italian Quarter

We’re still in Port Phillip. Last night we anchored at Martha’s Cove. Today, we’re on a mooring off Sorrento. Tomorrow, we might be in Queenscliffe. Hopefully, there will be a weather window on Wednesday and we can continue our journey west to Portland Harbour.

One of Melbourne's arcades

 

Regents Theatre foyer

Jervis Bay, New South Wales to Devonport, Tasmania

Mersey River, Devonport

We left Jervis Bay on Monday 6^th January after informing Marine Rescue of our plans. We were to contact Tas Marine on arrival. Later, we were given a transit number to use when we called Tas Marine. The seas were confused at the entrance to Jervis Bay. We tried sailing but the wind and sea were all over the place; the air smelled of smoke; thunder started to roar nearby. I felt seasick. 

 

Cruise ship Queen Elizabeth

We motorsailed. By the afternoon, the sea had calmed slightly. The wind freshened and I felt better. We sailed until the small hours, when light winds returned. Drizzly showers began and we began to rock and roll. I took Stugeron for the next two days.

Derwent River near Hobart

To avoid thick smoke and contrary winds, we went 10 miles offshore and found the northerly winds that we were expecting. From time to time, usually to avoid ships, we had to go back into the smoky, southerly wind with bumpy seas. It was as if a line had been drawn on the sea. Inshore, it was cold, murky and uncomfortable, because of the headwind. Offshore, it was sunny and much calmer with a northerly tail wind.

Lindisfarne Airbnb

We had better conditions in the Bass Strait, even in the Roaring 40’s, with SE, then E winds all the way to Devonport. Cunard cruise ship Queen Elizabeth altered her course to avoid us. Jeremy called Tas Marine and gave them our transit number when we were 10 miles from Devonport. At 2030 on 9^th January, we tied up to the visitors’ pontoon outside the Mersey Yacht Club. Friendly members took our lines and welcomed us. The club was to be our base for the next 9 days. We had two nights on the pontoon and a week on a mooring.

Tasman Arch

Peter and Debbie on their home built catamaran, Selah, were very helpful the next day with lots of information about Tasmania. Mike, the berthing manager, gave us a visitors’ key, so we could use the lovely, hot showers and the quirky laundry. Rod, the moorings man, directed us to a mooring on the river. We felt we could leave SD for a few days and tour Tasmania by car. 

 

View from Eaglehawk Neck

We toured for 3 days and drove 1,385 kilometers or 861 miles, taking in the western highlands, Strahan, Hobart and Charlotte Cove on the Huon River, where we caught up with ex-Yawarra II owner, Jan, last seen in Malaysia in 2011. Unfortunately, Jan’s husband, Nick, had car problems so we were not able to see him. 

 

Car park wallaby

We spent a night in a lovely Airbnb in Lindisfarne, near Hobart, with hosts, David and Merrie and another night in an equally lovely Airbnb in Connellys Marsh, with hosts, Roger and Skye. We learned that Skye was a chef and she cooked a delicious evening meal for us and a cooked breakfast the following morning.

Port Arthur through the trees

Tomorrow, 18^th January, we leave for Melbourne, 227nm away across the Bass Strait, before the next gale is due to come through.

View over Norfolk Bay from Connelly's Marsh Airbnb

Sydney Harbour to Jervis Bay

Approaching Point Perpendicular

We managed to buy two cruising guides before we left Sydney Harbour. There is a well-stocked shop near the Crow’s Nest district called Boat Books Australia. They sell charts, cruising guides and nautical books. We bought a guide to cruising Victoria and another for South Australia.

We left Port Jackson just before midnight on 2^nd January. The winds were light so we motor sailed until the afternoon winds began to blow. It was hot and sunny as we sighted the appropriately named Point Perpendicular, the entrance to Jervis Bay. As we rounded the point we were hit with sudden 20knot winds and had to reef down quickly. We still had nine miles to go to a mooring in the north, but the strong, northerly winds made the long beat unpleasant. To our delight, although there were many boats on moorings in Callalla Bay, the pink, public mooring was free. After putting the sails to bed, we picked it up just before 1800 hours.

Callandra Bay in Jervis Bay

Jeremy had telephoned Marine Rescue Shoalhaven to report our arrival and we were given an update on the bush fires. We learned that further south the navy had evacuated over 1000 people by ship and the roads north to Sydney were were filled with vehicles leaving the area. The next day, Saturday 4^th January, we learned that there was an extreme fire warning for our area. Strong southerly winds were forecast, so we took local advice and decided to move to a southern anchorage later in the day. Meanwhile, the strong northerly wind blew hard.

Hazy sunset, Jervis Bay

Jeremy was on the bow, shirtless, when a hot wave of air, like somebody opening an oven door, hit him. He was okay - just a little shocked. We watched a huge cloud cross the bay ahead of us; the sky turned orange; black ash and debris fell on the boat. Yachts in the north east anchorage called Marine Rescue Jervis Bay to say they were moving south as burning embers were falling on their boats. We decided to do the same. All the moorings were taken when we arrived, but we were able to anchor. Although the air was clearer, a smoky haze filled the northern part of the bay. Black soot continued to fall on the decks, which we swilled with sea water and washed down several times.

Hot, smoky sky

The southerly wind change came and we had less debris falling on us. The next day there were two moorings free and it was much calmer. We listened to the news. All the fires further south were now under control. It began to rain. We moved to a mooring off Vincentia, where we went ashore and used the local laundrette. Jeremy bought petrol for the outboard. Locals advised us not to go to Eden, an overnight sail further south, as we had intended, because Eden was running low on supplies.

Escaping the smoke and debris

The following morning Brenda and Bill sent a text message telling us Eden was being evacuated. We learned from the news that the wharf was not safe because of embers from the fire that had flared up overnight. We spent an hour and a half checking the weather and the fire reports. If we maintained 5 knots we could make Devonport in Tasmania on the other side of the Bass Strait before a SW gale swept through the area. The wind had turned northerly again. Our overnight trip was to be a four day passage. There was no time to go ashore for fresh provisions and no time to cook in advance. We had to leave immediately.

Ash on the decks

Broken Bay to Sydney Harbour

Happy New Year

 

Pittwater is the first bay on the left after entering Broken Bay. We were motoring there when Louise telephoned. She told us Careel Bay would be more sheltered than Avalon Sailing Club, and we would be most welcome to meet the family at her house later on. We managed to secure a mooring at Careel Bay Marina. From there is was a 25 minute walk to Louise and Charles’ house.

Jeremy's Australian Family

We met many Australian Spencers of three generations plus the offspring of Judy’s sister, Denise. Everyone we met wanted to hear about our sailing adventures. We found it interesting to hear about them. We had a lovely evening with delicious food and lots of it. In between courses we walked about 300 yards to the beautiful Avalon beach, which remains unspoilt by the encroaching high rise apartments of Manly.

Avalon Beach

The wind was blowing from the north and set to strengthen in the next few days, so it made sense to depart for Sydney Harbour the next day - 27^th December. First, we took on water at Careel Bay Marina. Then we motored out of Pittwater, rounding Barrenjoey Head and passing Avalon beach, where we had been standing the evening before. The seas were rolly and uncomfortable but not too big. Three and a half hours later we anchored in Manly Cove with a fair number of other boats. The ferries from Sydney come in and out but it’s not too rough and there’s plenty of anchoring room. There are five courtesy moorings but these were all occupied.

Port Jackson entrance, North Head

The next day we went ashore and found a laundry where we could leave our clothes and bedding to be washed, dried and folded. We shopped at Coles Supermarket, having visited charity shops and a bookshop. We bought a queen size throw/thin quilt for our stern berth. Lunch at a Thai restaurant in an arcade was good value and good food. In the afternoon, we walked to Fairfax Lookout on North Head to have a look at our entry to Sydney Harbour and the Tasman Sea beyond. It was the hottest part of the day, but it was an interesting walk, which took us through the Precinct Barracks and up to the headland. There was plenty of evidence of former military installations on the way. The views were worth the effort, but we were glad of the bus ride back down to Manly.

Kathy on parade

On Sunday 29^th December we motored towards Sydney Harbour Bridge. What an amazing sight watching the bridge and the Opera House grow larger as we approached. We continued under the bridge avoiding ferries, yachts, motor boats and even a man rowing a dinghy. The navigation beyond the bridge was a bit more tricky but still well marked, so we continued into the Parramatta River and picked up a courtesy mooring in Hen and Chicken Bay. A brownish, smoky haze lingered over Sydney from the awful bush fires, but the air quality further upstream seemed a little better.

After a calm and peaceful night, we motored further upstream to Ryde Road Bridge, the end of the navigation for us as the bridge is too low for our mast. There were many rowing and sailing clubs lining the banks. We turned around and headed back towards Sydney Harbour, stopping at the relaxed Drummoyne Sailing Club, where we picked up a mooring, with the Club’s permission, and went ashore for Seniors’ Lunches. Afterwards, we shopped at Coles in the large mall nearby.

Sydney Harbour Bridge

We had to move to another mooring when the owner returned. A local told us there was a courtesy mooring so we picked it up and spent the night there. A second trip ashore found us walking to the post office and to Whitworths, a large, well-stocked chandlery, where we bought bits for SD including a new solar vent, a solar shower and cockpit cushion.

The Opera House

Now it was the day we had sailed all this way for – New Year’s Eve. We had been advised to anchor early so we motored to Farm Cove, next to the Opera House and anchored in 12m just after 0830. There were already quite a lot of yachts and motor boats including some international boats. By lunchtime the madness had started as many vessels tried to find a place to anchor and some behaved as if they had never anchored before. We had all our fenders out. Perhaps all would have been well if there hadn’t been a gale warning.

Into position for the fireworks

The wind was going to increase from the north before switching to the south with gale force gusts. We took turns to be on anchor watch. A small yacht had anchored close to us and when the wind blew, SD was over their anchor, so we had to move before we hit each other. Jeremy pulled up 40m of chain using our manual anchor windlass and his hands as the wind rose to 26 knots. We had to lay the anchor twice more and we were still rather close to a Canadian yacht called Good as Gold. Many boats had to re-anchor at this time. The strong southerly wind arrived in the early evening. All the boats turned around and many more dragged – not SD this time. Calmer conditions prevailed when the fireworks began.

OOOOOOOHH

Spectacular! Amazing! Stunning! Superb! I’m sure there are many more adjectives to describe the fireworks, which were not just on the bridge but on barges anchored at various places in the harbour. There were two displays – one at 9.00pm and the big one at midnight. Both were wonderful and it was worth putting up with all the worries of the crowded anchorage to see them. We felt privileged. Well done, Sal Darago, our trusty Westerly.

AAAAAAAAHH