Passage to Brisbane, Australia

We knew we’d have to pay a penalty for taking a few days out for rest and relaxation. The weather was just right for leaving for Australia as soon as we’d arrived in New Caledonia. However, the forecast for our intended departure date of 6^th August gave us a good start with fresh SE winds for two to three days, then turning WNW and increasing to 20 knots as we approached the Australian coast. A more worrying aspect was the swell which would come from the south and could be as high as 5 metres. This was due to arrive just after we reached Australia, so we’d be OK as long as there were no delays.

Big seas and blue skies

It took us an hour to cross the amazing lagoon that surrounds New Caledonia. This gave us time to eat our lunch in relative comfort as there was no swell. Just as we were approaching the pass into the ocean the GPS link to the chart plotter stopped working. Jeremy tried to fix it; I tried to fix it, but we had no luck. Steering by eye and depth sounder and thanking the French for maintaining their navigation marks, we entered the pass. When we were half way through the GPS came on again thanks to further efforts by Jeremy. This sailing life plays havoc with your heart rate!

About half way to Australia there is a long line of seamounts running in a north south direction called the Lord Howe Seamount Chain. Some of these underwater mountains break the surface and make reefs and islands such as Lord Howe Island. Others lie only 5 or 10 metres below the surface. There are a number of gaps in the seamount chain which are 1000 or more metres deep. The navigation has to be pretty accurate to make sure you pass through a gap. The one we chose was 10 miles wide, so what could go wrong?

Kathy tucked under the sprayhood

The wind started blowing from the west making it impossible to sail the planned course. We changed course and headed for another gap. No problem so far. I was on watch in the evening and saw the dark clouds gathering. A squall hit us with 23 knots of NW wind on it. We had two reefs in the mainsail anyway, so I furled the genoa and turned away from the wind losing 8 miles as I was pushed southwards. Jeremy was not pleased when he came on watch and decided to tack. It was then that he discovered tide and current were against us and it was not possible to make headway even with the engine on. We returned to our original course motorsailing with a lighter wind. We were delighted to pass through the seamounts safely and we were able to sail our course to Brisbane close hauled with the wind coming from the WNW.

We watched the barometer drop quite quickly to 1005hp. However, we had clear skies and a moderate wind until a quilted blanket of cloud arrived at 2100 hours. The sea became lumpy and uncomfortable and the wind rose to 28 knots with gusts to gale force. Simon’s birthday was our worst day of the passage. It became obvious that the wind speed indicator was not giving an accurate reading and 24 knots was most likely 34 knots of wind. In addition, the South Pacific Subtropical Current, which normally flows toward Australia at 1.5 knots, reversed in the strong westerly winds. We were going nowhere and having to deal with gale force winds and a huge sea with breaking waves sweeping over the roof and decks of Sal Darago. We sailed very slowly, close hauled with two reefs in the mainsail and our wonderful Hydrovane wind pilot steering. What was odd about this gale was the absence of clouds. The almost full moon was shining brightly and faint stars could be seen.

Heath Robinson!

At 2245 while Jeremy was on watch the bilge alarm went off. Jeremy pumped the water out. His cup of tea spilled all over the cooker so he had that to clean up while SD heeled and bounced along. Fortunately, there was an easing of the conditions during the day but the next night brought several sustained gusts to gale force and a 2 knot current against us. I think we made 59 miles the first day and 30 miles the second day. Usually we clock up 110-120 miles each day.

All things come to an end and sure enough the barometer started to rise, the winds began to go round to the south and the sea started to calm down. Jeremy put out the full genoa after supper and we began to make some progress. I was on watch, the sun had just set and Jeremy was getting ready for bed. Then the genoa started to fall down. I called out to Jeremy and he shot outside in T-shirt and underpants to catch the genoa as it fell. I hooked on to the safety line, hauled the sheet in and stepped out on the side deck to catch the tail of the genoa. Between us we stopped it dropping into the sea. Jeremy bagged it and dragged it into the saloon, where it took up most of the space under the table. A shackle had become detached and dropped off at the top of the mast leaving the genoa upper swivel and halyard up there. All we could do as it went dark was hank on our number 2 jib and take the reefs out of the mainsail.

Felixstowe? No, Brisbane Docks.

The next day Jeremy made a grappling hook out of two metal coat hangers. We managed to use a spare halyard with a line on it to swing the grappling hook towards the genoa halyard. It grabbed and we lowered the genoa halyard to the deck and secured it. I refused to put the genoa back up the slider while we were at sea with water coming over the foredeck and the wind blowing at 15 knots.

Rivergate Marina, Brisbane River

On Wednesday 14^th August at 0105 hours I saw the four white flashes of the lighthouse on Cape Moreton 24.4nm away. Australia was close and, after avoiding some commercial fishing vessels on approach, we entered Moreton Bay and motorsailed towards Brisbane. Jeremy called various authorities on VHF eventually contacting the Australian Border Force. We tied up to berth E14 at Rivergate Marina at 1130.  Jason took our lines and told us it was a public holiday. Oh no! That meant double quarantine fees. Fortunately, there was no fee for Customs and two officers were on board within 10 minutes of our arrival. The Customs and Immigration Officers cleared us into Australia, but we were compelled to stay on board Sal Darago until the Quarantine Officer had inspected us early on Thursday morning.