French Polynesia 4

 The Society Islands

Tahiti skyline

Tahiti

Tahiti is probably the most well-known island in French Polynesia. It is a large, mountainous island surrounded by a lagoon and fringing reef. As we approached in the early morning of 15^th May, we watched the mist slowly rise from the mountain tops, revealing an impressive, jagged skyline. Beneath, the land looked green and fertile. Captain Cook, Captain Bligh and many other early navigators must have thought they’d found Paradise.

Stevenson's lighthouse

We motored on past Venus Point, named by Cook, because it was the place where he watched the transit of Venus on behalf of the Royal Society. The first lighthouse in the South Pacific stands on the point, designed by Stevenson. Once we were safely past Venus Point, we turned towards the reef and entered the well-marked pass into the lagoon close to Tahiti Yacht Club. We had happy memories of time spent here ten years ago with other international boats, so we picked up a mooring a little surprised to see there were no other international boats.

We went ashore to the yacht club office and were told the moorings were private, mainly belonging to charter catamarans that would be back at the end of the day. We were fortunate that the mooring we’d chosen belonged to someone who was away for a week or two and so we could stay. The yacht club was a very busy place, doing lots for children and young people. As well as the catamarans, a fair number of sports fishing boats used the pontoons and there were local yachts there as well. There is a fuel berth for diesel and petrol, a restaurant and a snack bar. A large Carrefour store is only 10 minutes’ walk away.

Rays

The manager told us we could hire a car at a nearby Shell garage, so the next day we hired a Peugot for four nights. Between the yacht club and the garage, we were advised to go to Sopom in Papeete with our worn out prop shaft coupling. First, we needed to go to Immigration and Customs to check in. Things change in ten years and we soon found out that the handy office on the quay was no longer there and we would have to go to the airport at Faa’a. The Immigration officer was surprised to see us as we’d already checked in at Hiva Oa. However, we had to report to the Harbourmaster back in Papeete. We found Sopom near the port buildings and they could have a new part flown in for us in about 10 days. They knew a man called Jean Pierre who might be able to fix the old part, but we needed a local phone number so he could phone us to make arrangements.

Eating out at the Coconut Station

Off we went to Vini, the local mobile phone network only to find the shop was closed for refurbishment. A friendly and helpful member of staff came in our car and took us to another shop where we bought a SIM card. Jeremy phoned John Pierre and met him later at the yacht club. He revulcanised the prop shaft coupling, so we now have a spare.

Although there is a washing machine and tumble drier at the yacht club, we had lots of bedding and towels to wash as well as clothes. We learned there was a laundry about a mile down the road, so we took it all there and it was washed, dried and folded for us for 6000PCF (60USD). I had an expensive hair wash, which included a head and back massage, wash, cut and blow dry. The hairdresser had spent seven months in New Zealand, so it was very pleasant to chat in English. It had been my birthday a few days earlier and it felt good to treat myself.

Rent a car with essential baguette

The rest of the time was spent provisioning for the next half of our trip, buying bits and pieces for the boat at marine stores, catching up with messages from friends and family, writing and posting the blog, eating out at lunchtime and enjoying candlelit suppers in our cockpit. I made good use of the hot showers on shore. Our granddaughter, Ellie, had her 6^th birthday and we were able to make a video call the evening before to wish her “Happy Birthday”. We were also very happy to chat to our son, Simon, and daughter, Emily, who had been so worried about us. Thank you both and special thanks to our daughter-in-law, Erin, who spoke to the Coastguard in French.

Cockpit candlelit supper

Today, 21^st May, we motorsailed to the island of Moorea, just under 20 miles away. In the afternoon we snorkelled a reef and saw rays resting under Sal Darago.