Southport, Queensland to Sydney Harbour, New South Wales

Leaving Southport

On Saturday 14^th December, we weighed anchor, called Seaway Tower, Southport and motored out to sea. There was less than 1m of swell and no breaking waves. Soon we had both sails flying and enjoyed a beam reach in sunny weather - perfect for our first sail for a while. We found the East Australia Current, which added about 2 knots to our speed over the ground. Our destination was Coffs Harbour in New South Wales. We signed on with Marine Rescue and called them on VHF at various points on our journey. This is an excellent voluntary service rather like a combination of the UK RNLI and Coastguard.

The jetty at Coffs Harbour

It was 165nm to Coffs Harbour and we completed the trip in less than 29 hours. We anchored in the well-protected bay near a long jetty. Later, we moved to one of the two free moorings.

East of England Westerly Owners

We stayed in Coffs Harbour for three nights waiting for a strong southerly blow to pass by. It was a great place with a marina close by, two laundrettes and shops. Large shopping malls were just a bus ride away. One afternoon we met up with fellow East of England Westerly Owners, Bill and Brenda, and enjoyed a beer and a chat sitting in the shade next to their VW camper van.

Retrieving the mast

On Wednesday 18^th December we were off again hoping to make Port Stephens, 177nm further south. There was still a fair bit of swell from the SE, but the winds were slowly coming round to the N and E. We called Marine Rescue Coffs Harbour to inform them of our intentions. At midday a whole school of dolphins played around the boat, some doing somersaults in pairs. It was lovely to see them but I couldn’t help thinking they might be warning us of strong winds to come.

Refuge Bay

Sure enough, by the evening we had taken down the mainsail and had the genoa poled out in a following wind. The current gave us 7.7 knots over the ground, but the swell and waves gave us a rocky rolly ride. We saw several large ships and another sailing vessel. By 0300 hours we had a rough and boisterous sea and in the morning we found our pressure cooker with our stew inside it upside down on the front cabin floor. Fortunately, only a bit of gravy had leaked out so we were able to eat the stew later.

Not good for swimming

We were very happy to motor into Port Stephens 29 hours after our departure from Coffs. We anchored in Nelson Bay where the three courtesy moorings were already taken. A dismasted yacht was tied to one of them. Steve from one of the other yachts stopped by and gave us useful advice on where to anchor in Sydney Harbour for the fireworks. Nelson was another great place with a marina nearby and a large Woolworths store just a few minutes’ walk away. We stocked up with food, I bought a Telstra SIM card and we filled up with water.

Fairy lights on Sal Darago

Another southerly blow passed by but we were able to leave Port Stephens in the afternoon for another overnight passage to Broken Bay 77nm further south. There were several large ships off the port of Newcastle drifting, presumably waiting to enter the port. One was right on our course and did not show up on our AIS until we were only two miles away. It was the end of my first night watch and I woke Jeremy 5 minutes early to help me. A grumpy Skipper came out to the cockpit and started taking bearings until MV Good Hope showed itself on our AIS and Jeremy was able to call them on VHF and find out which way they were drifting.

Putting up the Christmas tree

The wind died away in the small hours. We entered Broken Bay, just 18 miles north of Sydney Harbour and picked up a club mooring in Refuge Bay, having taken advice from the owner of a local catamaran. There were numerous, large jellyfish so no swimming for me. We knew from Sue and Dougie back in Coomera that Broken Bay led to Cowan Creek and the Hawkesbury River and it was a good place to spend Christmas. 

 

Returning from church

It was beautiful and most of it’s tree-lined, steep-sided bays had courtesy moorings which could be used for 24 hours. It was a peaceful place, the only down side being a lack of a mobile phone signal in most places and a very small number of villages with shops.

North Head entrance to Sydney Harbour

We spent a night in Yeoman’s Bay and shopped the next day at the well-stocked general store at Brooklyn. We met Ann and Nubert at the Lifeboat Seafood Restaurant nearby. They shared their wine with us and we enjoyed listening to their fascinating accounts of how they ended up in Australia from Europe.

Peter and Judy

Other bays we visited were Little Shark Rock Bay, Waratah Bay and Houseboat Bay. Christmas Eve was spent in Waratah Bay. We hiked uphill for an hour to Berowra to go to church at St Marks. After a short trip to the end of Cowan Creek at Bobbin Head, Christmas Day was spent in Houseboat Bay. We had a mobile phone signal so we were able to phone all our close relatives and wish them a Merry Christmas. This included Peter and Judy and that was how we came to be invited to cousin, Louise’s house at Avalon on Boxing Day.

Coomera River. The Boatworks to Southport, Queensland

Excellent Boatworks' courtesy car

We had the hire car for a few days enabling us to drive to Bunnings (like B&Q) at Oxenford Shopping Centre and buy two essentials: a wet and dry vacuum cleaner and a 240v pedestal fan. The temperature soared to 30C.

Front cabin tool shed

To make more room inside Sal Darago, Jeremy put the mainsail back on. We collected the new prop shaft and gearbox coupling from Stella Marine. I drove to Woolworths, which is like M&S Food here, and bought provisions. The Boatworks provide an air conditioned liveaboards’ lounge, which has a microwave, kettle and fridge (plus a TV and comfortable seating). It was a godsend to us and our only escape from the heat until the sun went down.

Up the mast

Jeremy set about replacing the toilet seacock followed by sanding down the old antifoul paint using the vacuum cleaner to collect the dust. Our original B&D sander packed up necessitating another trip to Bunnings. We met Peter and Nicky from the World Arc and learned that they have a Westerly Pageant back in the UK.

Essential new fan

I’ll briefly list the main jobs carried out over the next 7 days: prepare stern prop shaft housing for new prop shaft; continue sanding down SD’s bottom; do 3 loads of laundry using the on-site facilities; hang curtains; check grab bag; fit new prop shaft; service cockpit drain seacocks. The best news of all was that Jeremy found a way to unseize the Blakes seacock on one of the cockpit drains by using the principle of leverage ie an aluminium pole from a broken boathook with a large adjustable spanner attached. With this he was able to reach under the stern berth, turn the handle on the seacock and remove the cone for servicing. Further jobs included finishing the antifouling; painting the decks and roof; shopping; stowing, labelling and logging all food products; checking the horseshoe lifebuoy lights; finding and stopping the ingress of water into one of the stern lockers. It was a cockpit seat drain pipe, which had become detached from the through-hull fitting.

New anti-foul

The list continues: check the blocks at the top of the mast; service anchor windlass and winches; check fairleads and cleats; check instruments. The depth sounder screen had gone black and was barely readable. Check and top up batteries; check Hydrovane mountings; put on jackstays; lift spinnaker poles on board; check dinghy and paddles; go shopping using one of The Boatworks’ courtesy cars; wash the topsides and enjoy the rain. There was thunder and lightning and a cooler temperature of 28C.

On the way to the water

Launch day was Wednesday 11^th December. Jeremy paid the boatyard bill and we spent a night on a pontoon berth. We filled our tanks and bottles with drinking water and did a last load of laundry. There were no leaks from the new seacock or prop shaft.

Impressing the neighbours

We left The Boatworks the next day and motored a few hundred yards to a fuel dock where we filled up with diesel. The next two nights were spent on anchor in the Coomera River as we made our way to Southport on the Gold Coast. Here we experienced a once in a 100 year storm. We were on anchor and I had just made lunch. I noted that the wind had risen to 17 knots. After a few bites of lunch all hell broke loose. A thunder storm began with fork lightning and wind gusts up to 30 knots. The anchor dragged. Jeremy started the engine and we avoided hitting a motor cruiser. I took the helm while Jeremy weighed our anchor but I had to quickly go out of gear as there was a length of rusty chain with a long line attached on our anchor and it was close to wrapping itself round our propeller. Once it was all on SD’s newly painted decks I could motor into deeper water.

Rusty chain and rope

Jeremy sent me below to eat my fairly cold lunch while he steered up the deep water channel. Then the rain started – BIG drops. The wind rose. Jeremy saw 50+, 60+ and 85 knots on the wind instrument! Visibility was almost nil. SD heeled and gravy spilled. Glasses were wedged in the sink to keep them upright. Jeremy was being stung by the rain and needed a jacket. The lightning was very close and Jeremy got an electric shock from SD’s wheel. He managed to drop the anchor just outside the channel as the wind abated and came below to eat his stone cold lunch. Oh the joys of sailing and we were still in the river!

Goodbye Southport

Later, Jeremy replaced the damaged depth sounder with our old Stowe depth sounder and we started to dry out the bedding in the stern cabin. The rain had been driven through old, cracked sealant round the stern hatch so Jeremy stripped this off and resealed. We learnt that the Conservative Party led by Boris Johnson had won the UK election with a big majority. It looks like the UK will leave Europe on 31^st January 2020.

Home for a While

We have come to the end of a three month stay in the UK. So, what have we been up to apart from tidying the garden and watching the telly!

Just a few days after arriving back from Australia, we were on our way to the Isle of Man for my sister, Sara’s marriage to Geoff. Our daughter, Emily, came with us. It was a lovely day. The wedding was held at the historic St Peter’s Church in the village of Cregneash, followed by a Reception at Port Erin Golf Club.

Geoff, Sara, Pat, Kathy and Mum in front

I stayed with my sister, Pat, for a week visiting my Mum everyday and seeing the newly weds before they left the island for their honeymoon in Cyprus.

Ellie and Sophie

Back home in Suffolk, it was wonderful to catch up with the fast-growing grandchildren, Ellie and Sophie and their parents, Emily and Ben, plus Tess the dog.

Gavin, Jeremy, Martha and Eileen

In October, we went to the island of Mull for a week’s holiday. On the way north, we had lunch in South Yorkshire with Jeremy’s brother, Ritchie and his wife, Catherine. Continuing our journey, we spent two nights with Jeremy’s middle brother, Gavin and his wife, Eileen. We were joined on our second evening by our great niece, Martha, who had recently started medical training at Newcastle University.

Kathy on Aros Pier, Tobermory

The rain began in the north of England and increased in intensity by the time we reached Tobermory. Despite the rain, we still enjoyed several rather damp walks, catching up with friends and watching a number of starts of legs of the annual Mull Rally.

Jeremy at Loch an Tor, Mull

November was soon upon us beginning with a bonfire party at Em and Ben’s house. A severe weather warning meant the party had to be deferred by one day. About 40 adults and their children enjoyed eating hot dogs, while watching the fireworks and admiring the bonfire.

Further fireworks and inferior hot dogs were enjoyed a few days later at the firework display at Ellie’s school.

 

Mid November saw me return to the IOM, to see my sisters and my Mum. Once again the week was spent taking Mum out, catching up with relations and spending time with friends.

Westbank Reunion

One week before our return to Australia, we drove up to Lancashire for a reunion of Jeremy’s form from his Westbank School days of 32 years ago. It was amazing to hear clear and largely positive memories from the ex-pupils.

All that remained back home were sad goodbyes to the Suffolk family, packing, closing up the house, collecting the hire car and driving to London Gatwick Airport for our Chinese Airlines flights to Brisbane, Australia. Two days later, we arrived in Oz, collected another hire car and drove about 50 miles to The Boatworks. Sal Darago was in the work yard, the temperature was about 30C and we were tired out.

Preparing SD's bottom

Another sailing adventure begins, but first the hard work of preparing the boat for the sea must be done. Watch this space.

My apologies for the different sizes of photos. Jeremy's new laptop does not have Microsoft Picture Manager, so I am using Paint to resize the photos - not always successfully.

Brisbane and Coomera

Some heritage remains on the Brisbane River

We had been told to expect Quarantine/Biosecurity at 7.30am. We were up and ready. At 9.30am, Jeremy went to Rivergate Marina Office. The receptionist phoned Quarantine and was told there had been an emergency they had to attend to and someone would come to inspect Sal Darago at 10.00am. Two officers arrived around 10.45am. As it was no longer a public holiday, normal rates would apply of 100AUD plus 50AUD for every 15 minutes spent on the boat. The latter charge can be made for each officer in attendance. We were grateful to be charged for one officer only.

Warehouses converted to apartments on the Brisbane River

Various forms were filled in and Sal Darago was thoroughly inspected inside and out, including the lockers underneath the bunks and the bilges. Afterwards, we were given a clean bill of health, told to take down our yellow quarantine flag and allowed to venture beyond the marina perimeter. We paid total fees of 330 AUD (185.51 GBP). If we’d had any rubbish that needed to be disposed of separately, the marina would have to charge us 150 AUD for this service, which they provide on behalf of Quarantine/Biosecurity.

Brisbane CBD

Throughout the whole process, Jason and the rest of Rivergate Marina staff were very helpful and understanding. We were taken by car to a shopping centre to stock up on fresh produce and collected afterwards. This is part of the marina service for all visitors. In addition, we were charged for only one of our two night stays as we were unable to leave for 24 hours until we’d been seen by Quarantine/Biosecurity. The charge was 74AUD (42GBP). We recommend Rivergate Marina to all visiting cruisers.

Not the Missippi but the Brisbane River

We continued up the Brisbane River the next day and anchored off the Botanical Gardens in the CBD. There were pile moorings nearby and we were lucky to have one of them for three nights. This enabled us to have the use of a laundry, hot showers, toilets and an oar store. We were advised to padlock the dinghy to the landing dock.

Houses with boat docks on the Brisbane River

We enjoyed a walking tour of Brisbane CBD with a very knowledgeable guide and lunch in Pancakes Restaurant. The following day we explored the South Bank visiting an exhibition of art by Margaret Ollie and having lunch at The Plough. We completed our short time in Brisbane with a brisk walk along the riverbank and a trip back on the free ferry.

Tourist Information, Brisbane, in old Regent Theatre

It was now time to start our 59 mile journey to The Boatworks on the Coomera River. This trip took us half a day to plot as it was all on inland waterways and through lagoons. We were very pleased not to have to go out to sea again! We anchored the first night in Horseshoe Bay off Peel Island, where we couldn’t help thinking of our former sailing area of Morecambe Bay and Piel Island in the north west of England. The next day we anchored for lunch off a lovely village called Jacob’s Well and anchored in the Coomera River for the night.

Lunch at Pancakes in a converted church

Next morning, we were visited by two friendly officials who told us we were only allowed to anchor for 24 hours in that part of the river. It was not a problem. Jeremy phoned The Boatworks and reserved a marina berth for five nights. We motored the short distance and tied up to berth F11. Several cruisers had recommended The Boatworks as a good place to haul out, store and work on your boat from as far back as French Polynesia. We were not disappointed. The facilities were first class with just about every type of marine business available on site. In addition, courtesy cars were provided free of charge for trips to the supermarket or elsewhere. There were private bathrooms, several laundries and a liveaboard’s lounge available at no extra cost. Boaters could work on their own boats and live aboard in the work yard.

Nepal Peace Pagoda, South Bank, Brisbane

Sal Darago was hauled out on 29^th August, power washed and taken to the storage yard. Normally, boaters are not allowed to live aboard in the storage yard, so we had booked two nights at an Airbnb at Pimpama, where we were welcomed and treated like family.  Jeremy removed the prop shaft and left it with a specialist firm to be checked for trueness.

The pile moorings in central Brisbane

All the usual jobs required for “putting the boat to bed” were done either on the water, in the marina berth or in the storage yard. Just as we were preparing to leave Sal Darago for three months, Jeremy found a substantial diesel oil leak from the diesel fuel injection pump in the engine. This took a while to put right.

Sails drying in the sunshine

The next day, our Airbnb hosts gave us a lift to Coomera Railway Station where we caught a train to Nundah, near Brisbane Airport. We stayed two days and one night at the Prince of Wales Hotel. From there it was a short taxi ride to the airport. The midnight flight to Taiwan took 8 hours and the second one to London Gatwick took 14hrs and 30 minutes.

Haul out at The Boatworks

We arrived in the UK on 2^nd September and hardly had time to check our post before we were airborne again heading for the Isle of Man and my sister’s wedding.

SD resting in the storage yard

Our South Pacific adventure was over. Sal Darago had stood up to everything the elements threw at her and took us safely to Australia. OK, she needs a new prop shaft and a lower shroud had to be replaced which is not bad after 8,500 nautical miles. We were sad to leave her, but happy to see our family again. We have another adventure to look forward to when we return to Australia to sail southwards and westwards to the Indian Ocean.

Passage to Brisbane, Australia

We knew we’d have to pay a penalty for taking a few days out for rest and relaxation. The weather was just right for leaving for Australia as soon as we’d arrived in New Caledonia. However, the forecast for our intended departure date of 6^th August gave us a good start with fresh SE winds for two to three days, then turning WNW and increasing to 20 knots as we approached the Australian coast. A more worrying aspect was the swell which would come from the south and could be as high as 5 metres. This was due to arrive just after we reached Australia, so we’d be OK as long as there were no delays.

Big seas and blue skies

It took us an hour to cross the amazing lagoon that surrounds New Caledonia. This gave us time to eat our lunch in relative comfort as there was no swell. Just as we were approaching the pass into the ocean the GPS link to the chart plotter stopped working. Jeremy tried to fix it; I tried to fix it, but we had no luck. Steering by eye and depth sounder and thanking the French for maintaining their navigation marks, we entered the pass. When we were half way through the GPS came on again thanks to further efforts by Jeremy. This sailing life plays havoc with your heart rate!

About half way to Australia there is a long line of seamounts running in a north south direction called the Lord Howe Seamount Chain. Some of these underwater mountains break the surface and make reefs and islands such as Lord Howe Island. Others lie only 5 or 10 metres below the surface. There are a number of gaps in the seamount chain which are 1000 or more metres deep. The navigation has to be pretty accurate to make sure you pass through a gap. The one we chose was 10 miles wide, so what could go wrong?

Kathy tucked under the sprayhood

The wind started blowing from the west making it impossible to sail the planned course. We changed course and headed for another gap. No problem so far. I was on watch in the evening and saw the dark clouds gathering. A squall hit us with 23 knots of NW wind on it. We had two reefs in the mainsail anyway, so I furled the genoa and turned away from the wind losing 8 miles as I was pushed southwards. Jeremy was not pleased when he came on watch and decided to tack. It was then that he discovered tide and current were against us and it was not possible to make headway even with the engine on. We returned to our original course motorsailing with a lighter wind. We were delighted to pass through the seamounts safely and we were able to sail our course to Brisbane close hauled with the wind coming from the WNW.

We watched the barometer drop quite quickly to 1005hp. However, we had clear skies and a moderate wind until a quilted blanket of cloud arrived at 2100 hours. The sea became lumpy and uncomfortable and the wind rose to 28 knots with gusts to gale force. Simon’s birthday was our worst day of the passage. It became obvious that the wind speed indicator was not giving an accurate reading and 24 knots was most likely 34 knots of wind. In addition, the South Pacific Subtropical Current, which normally flows toward Australia at 1.5 knots, reversed in the strong westerly winds. We were going nowhere and having to deal with gale force winds and a huge sea with breaking waves sweeping over the roof and decks of Sal Darago. We sailed very slowly, close hauled with two reefs in the mainsail and our wonderful Hydrovane wind pilot steering. What was odd about this gale was the absence of clouds. The almost full moon was shining brightly and faint stars could be seen.

Heath Robinson!

At 2245 while Jeremy was on watch the bilge alarm went off. Jeremy pumped the water out. His cup of tea spilled all over the cooker so he had that to clean up while SD heeled and bounced along. Fortunately, there was an easing of the conditions during the day but the next night brought several sustained gusts to gale force and a 2 knot current against us. I think we made 59 miles the first day and 30 miles the second day. Usually we clock up 110-120 miles each day.

All things come to an end and sure enough the barometer started to rise, the winds began to go round to the south and the sea started to calm down. Jeremy put out the full genoa after supper and we began to make some progress. I was on watch, the sun had just set and Jeremy was getting ready for bed. Then the genoa started to fall down. I called out to Jeremy and he shot outside in T-shirt and underpants to catch the genoa as it fell. I hooked on to the safety line, hauled the sheet in and stepped out on the side deck to catch the tail of the genoa. Between us we stopped it dropping into the sea. Jeremy bagged it and dragged it into the saloon, where it took up most of the space under the table. A shackle had become detached and dropped off at the top of the mast leaving the genoa upper swivel and halyard up there. All we could do as it went dark was hank on our number 2 jib and take the reefs out of the mainsail.

Felixstowe? No, Brisbane Docks.

The next day Jeremy made a grappling hook out of two metal coat hangers. We managed to use a spare halyard with a line on it to swing the grappling hook towards the genoa halyard. It grabbed and we lowered the genoa halyard to the deck and secured it. I refused to put the genoa back up the slider while we were at sea with water coming over the foredeck and the wind blowing at 15 knots.

Rivergate Marina, Brisbane River

On Wednesday 14^th August at 0105 hours I saw the four white flashes of the lighthouse on Cape Moreton 24.4nm away. Australia was close and, after avoiding some commercial fishing vessels on approach, we entered Moreton Bay and motorsailed towards Brisbane. Jeremy called various authorities on VHF eventually contacting the Australian Border Force. We tied up to berth E14 at Rivergate Marina at 1130.  Jason took our lines and told us it was a public holiday. Oh no! That meant double quarantine fees. Fortunately, there was no fee for Customs and two officers were on board within 10 minutes of our arrival. The Customs and Immigration Officers cleared us into Australia, but we were compelled to stay on board Sal Darago until the Quarantine Officer had inspected us early on Thursday morning.