Mohammedia to Agadir

The anchorage off the beach and just outside the harbour at Mohammedia was well sheltered from the southerly winds that we were experiencing. We checked the weather forecast and knew that northerly winds were coming soon. We also knew that we should wait a day before leaving to allow a gale further south to blow itself out. What we didn’t know was that the wind would switch direction so quickly. We went ashore for supplies for the two day sail to Agadir in calm, sunny weather. We returned in strong onshore winds with waves breaking into the dinghy and Sal Darago pitching and tossing on her anchor. Jeremy wanted to leave immediately, but we still had to clear out, which meant another dinghy trip ashore.

All sailors know the dangers of a lee shore – if the anchor drags the boat will go aground – but they also know the dangers of a gale out at sea. We went ashore and cleared out with Customs and Immigration, returned to Sal Darago and hauled up the dinghy with some difficulty on our bucking bronco of a boat. We decided to stay put until first light with the anchor alarm on, but be ready to leave immediately should we need to. Thankfully, the wind eased a little in the night and the anchor held firm. We motored out of the harbour waving at the returning fishing vessels.

Sunset over Agadir beach

We flew the genoa only as the strengthening wind was behind us. Soon the first squall hit us and we furled the genoa to a small triangle. The squall took the wind away and a yacht called Panacea that had been in the anchorage with us came sailing past under full sail. We raised our mainsail and later put the engine on as well as the wind varied in direction and strength. Our trusty autopilot, Neco, stopped working after another squall. Jeremy ducked under the stern bunk and found a grub screw had come loose and was able to fix it.

Agadir motto - God, Nation, King - on the hill

We motor sailed all night. Several fishing vessels came too close and we both had to take avoiding action to avoid a collision. By morning the wind had settled down to NNE direction and rose from 5-22 knots. Jeremy took the mainsail down and poled out the genoa. The wind blew stronger and the swell grew larger and breaking waves showered water into the cockpit. During one violent gust the inner forestay came loose and swung about like a pendulum threatening to smash our windows. It caught on the safety rail and I grabbed it. Jeremy secured it and tied it down. No damage was done.

Panache decided to make for the port of Essouira. We decided it was too risky to approach an unknown harbour in the dark in a near gale and headed away from the coast into open waters. We had an uncomfortable night with six knots on the log and 33 knots of wind from behind. Rough seas and breaking waves came rushing past like express trains. We rounded Cape Sim, the gale blew itself out and by 0500 hours the engine came on as we had only 3 knots of wind. 

Agadir Mosque

It was a delight to motor into a “proper” marina close to the beach at Agadir, where a staff member greeted us, spoke good English and helped us tie up. The sun shone brightly and the sky was blue. All was hunky dory until we saw the shower and toilet facilities – ‘nuff said!

The marina is very sheltered with non-drinking water and electricity at every berth. Apartments and shops surround the marina, but a breeze blows through from the hills nearby. In the daytime it is hot and sunny, but cools off quickly in the evening. Marium, in the marina office, gave us a map and good information about Agadir. She recommended a place to eat at the fish harbour – Abdel Krim number 7. We were glad to have this recommendation because the stalls selling food went into the hundreds. We shared a fish dinner, which included calamari, several small fish each and dozens of prawns, with a tomato salad starter and a plate of bread for 82 dirhams (approx. 8.20 euros). It was the freshest fish I’d tasted in a long time.

Being smoked alive at the Souk

Another day we caught the bus to the Souk and ate there for even less, but the food was not as good. We wandered round the Souk for two hours and didn’t see all of it. It had 15 entrances and there was much for sale and many stalls to take in. Almost everything you can think of was for sale from carpets and furniture to herbs and spices. The colours and the smells were overwhelming. One stallholder asked for help writing a postcard in English to a friend and took us behind his stall. In return for our help, he put the kettle on and left us with his fellow stallholder to share a glass of mint and citron tea. We felt like honoured guests until the big sell started. Would we like some herbs or spices? Look at these lipsticks? You like? We thanked him and walked away.

Stand Up Paddle board across the Atlantic

One day a strange craft was lowered into the marina. Some thought it was a submersible and others thought it was an ocean rowing boat but there were no oars or rowlocks. The craft became Sal Darago’s neighbour and we learned that it was an SUP (Stand Up Paddleboard) which South African surfer, Chris Bertish is going to paddle across the Atlantic. This will be the first time that anyone has attempted this. Chris and his team already have impressive sponsorship, but more would be welcome as they want to raise as much money as they can for needy children in Africa. Check out Chris’s website and if you would like to donate you’ll find the details there.

This shows the relative sizes

As we left our berth at Agadir Marina, bound for Lanzarote in the Canary Islands, we looked at Chris’s little craft and remembered the wind, waves and swell that we’d experienced in our 36 foot yacht. There is no way that we would swap. Good luck, Chris.