Malaysia to Cocos Keeling

Jeremy fitting the new heat exchanger

We were in Puteri Harbour for a week. The new heat exchanger arrived 5 days later and took most of a day to fit. We cleared Customs and Immigration and were on our way again on 14^th September. Our route took us across the Malacca/Singapore Straits and down the Durian Strait into Indonesia. The visibility was quite poor in the haze. John was keen to sail but there was a headwind all the time, so motoring was the only option. We had to avoid several local fishing vessels and their nets and tugs towing barges. The sea was quite rough going down Lingga Island and our passage was made more difficult by the many bamboo fishing platforms dotted about. Our progress was slow and John voted to anchor off Kentar Island and wait for lighter winds. Jeremy was keen to continue so it was up to me to decide what to do. I voted to anchor. Jeremy and I had a swim. I washed my hair while he scraped barnacles off the prop.

Bamboo fishing platform

After 5 hours we were on our way again, motorsailing into a lighter headwind and calmer sea. We crossed the Equator at 1830 on 15^th September and shared a glass of brandy with Neptune. He must have preferred whiskey because we soon had stronger winds and a lumpy sea!

We had a very pleasant run towards Bangka Strait with no vessels at all. There was some sludgy stuff in the primary diesel filter which was cleaned by John. As we approached the entrance to Bangka Strait in the dark there were vessels everywhere. The fishing vessels and the tugs towing barges rarely have AIS in Indonesia so a good watch has to be kept at all times. As there were ships as well, we had two people on watch and the radar on. We did plenty of tacking to avoid collisions.

Soon we were on anchor again behind Nanga Lighthouse. We turned back to this anchorage when strong winds and choppy seas made our progress slow and uncomfortable. There was a disagreement between Jeremy and John and we all needed some cooling off time. The wind eased just before dawn and a refreshed crew set off in the dark. Even when it was light we could barely see three quarters of a mile ahead and the smoky air smelt heavily of burning vegetation.

John checked the diesel and we did not have enough to get us through the Sunda Strait and on to Cocos. Jeremy searched through our Sail Indonesia notes on the laptop and found a village further down the Bangka Strait called Toboali. We anchored off in the dark in fairly calm conditions. Jeremy practiced suitable phrases in Bahasa Indonesia to use to barter for diesel the next day.

At first light the local fishing boats were returning home and we attracted the attention of one of them by waving a diesel can. They came alongside and after some negotiation agreed to help but one of us must go with them. Jeremy quickly changed, grabbed a cereal bar and stepped on to the fishing vessel with 3 men, 8 diesel cans and 1,000,000 rupiah. I watched him being taken towards the village and wondered whether I’d see him again. He returned about 4 hours later having been treated well and mobbed by children eager to see this unusual man in their midst. The fishermen departed with another 1,200,000 rupiah, two packets of cigarettes and a Chinese lucky charm. We had 8 full cans of diesel.

Local fishermen

We continued motorsailing all the way to Sunda Strait. Here the gentle breeze suddenly increased to 19 knots on the nose. It was dark as we entered the Strait and there were ferries, tugs and barges, fishing vessels and ships everywhere. All 3 of us were on deck at the entrance. A ship overtook us and added to the washing machine effect of the Indian Ocean meeting a south going current. Sara II was almost swamped as waves broke over her bows and into the cockpit. By 4.00 am we were out of the Strait and sailing at last in a bumpy sea. The next four days gave us good ocean sailing conditions with only a few passing ships and fishing vessels. Once our fresh meat was finished, John started fishing and caught a large mahi mahi half an hour later. We had enough fish for four meals.

It's a whopper!

We anchored in the outer anchorage off Direction Island, Cocos Keeling, by the light of the moon on 24^th September. We put our clocks back one and a half hours.

Sara II anchored off Direction Island

Today, two police officers cleared us in and we were free to anchor in Port Refuge off Direction Island. About 14 World ARC boats are here for 3 more days and they have ordered fresh fruit and veg from the supermarket. The freighter arrived today, too late for us to order anything, so we’ll have to make do with the leftovers.

West Island, Cocos Keeling

No worries. It is lovely to be here again in azure seas in a palm fringed atoll watching the dolphins and reef sharks, sipping cold beers and eating freshly caught fish.