Denmark 2

We woke to a howling wind and wondered whether it was sensible to go cycling. The bikes were standing together with a box for the money (70kr or 7pounds each for the day). It was 7^th June and Robert said he’d never worn so many clothes to go cycling in June. It was cold. We went north to Norby where we had lunch and on to the most northerly tip of Samso. There were fabulous views but it was hard work cycling on gravel and grass tracks up and down hills. We detoured on the way back to see the remains of a canal built by the Vikings across the narrowest part of the island so that they could escape from their enemies in either direction.

Robert and Kathy at the Viking Canal

The next day we had a pleasant sail to Begtrup Vig on Jutland and anchored behind Ronnen Island. We had a calm and peaceful night. As Robert had to return to work on the following day, we motored in warm and sunny conditions to Aarhus and berthed at a sailing club in Lystbode Yacht Haven. Lene drove over from Randers and collected Robert. We would see them again soon when we sailed up Randers fjord. Meanwhile, there was cooking gas to buy, laundry to do, charts to purchase and the sights of Denmark’s second city to see.

Jeremy and Kathy in the Rainbow Walkway

 We used the free town bikes. I went to the laundry and Jeremy cycled to Ega Yacht Haven, about 10 kilometres north. He arrived back absolutely exhausted and without the chart he wanted! Being a beggar for punishment he was soon on his bike again for a circuitous route round roadworks and pedestrian area to the world renowned ARoS Kunstmuseum. Careful how you say it! The building is topped by a Rainbow Walkway with super views over Aarhus in all colours of.....yes, you’ve guessed...the rainbow. We walked down 9 floors of exhibitions including art galleries displaying different genres, a video creation on 4 screens in a dark room, a rainbow fog experience and a stunning larger than life sculpture of a boy. When we returned to the bike park our city bikes had gone. We had to walk 2 kilometres back to Sal Darago, pausing only for Danish pastry and cake.

He's a big boy

We arrived in Randers fjord two days later having spent a night in Grenaa Yacht Haven. About half way up the fjord we were flagged down by two men who had gone out fishing in a small boat. Their outboard engine had broken down and they were 3 or 4 miles from their harbour. We towed them almost to the entrance of their harbour.

Rescue in Randers Fjord

Robert suggested tying up at Uggelhuse, which was about 10 miles from his house. We had to tie to the outside berth as the yacht haven was tiny and shallow – under 1m. At 80kr a night it was the cheapest so far. We were invited to the club’s lunch the following day. Robert and Lene came for us that evening and treated us to a lovely salmon dinner in their bungalow. We had hot showers and Lene insisted on doing another load of laundry for us.

Lene, Jeremy and Robert at King Hamlet's grave

At Uggelhuse the next day, the Commodore, who spoke no English, arranged for a young couple to sit next to us. We chatted to Ann and Christian, enjoyed our fish platter and copied the locals by placing the fish on half a slice of bread and eating it with a knife and fork. Live music was provided by 3 men playing guitar, accordion and keyboard and singing folk and classic pop songs mainly in English. Later, Robert and Lene came for us and took us to see King Hamlet’s grave and other sights. A delicious roast lamb dinner at their house ended a wonderful day.

Jeremy, Julian at the wheel, Robert and Lene

The next day was Sunday and it was quite windy. Robert, Lene and Julian came to Sal Darago and we motorsailed up the rest of the fjord to Randers. Lene helped me shop at two supermarkets and saved me money by checking my bill. We should have stayed at the wharf for lunch but Jeremy was determined to anchor and nearly ran aground several times looking for a suitable place. We enjoyed a huge picnic with wine on board SD before motoring back to Uggelhuse in an increasingly gusty wind. Here, we said our goodbyes and Jeremy and I motored on to Udbyhoj North Harbour at the mouth of the fjord with a small genoa flying and a gale blowing. Tying up was a nightmare. No-one came to help. Somehow, I managed to climb over the pulpit and thread a line through a staple which was low down below the pontoon.  Jeremy had managed to put a loop of line over a stern post, so with much pulling and pushing with and without engine power, we finally had SD tied up about an hour later. 

Berthed at Randers