Sweden and Denmark 4

It was a short trip across the Sound to Sweden in heavy rain. We tied up in a “box” at Raa Yacht Haven, which is very close to Helsingborg. There was a chandlery on site. Danish kroner were welcome, so a few purchases were made. 

Midsummer's Eve at Odden

Odden Harbour

The damp, cold weather persisted. We decided to try to reach Limfjord in Denmark, leave Sal Darago in a yacht haven and fly to Scotland for Dodo’s funeral. The westerly wind would not let us do that, so we ended up in Odden for Midsummer Eve or St Hans Day, as it is known in Denmark. It was our third choice of destination but proved to be a good one. The weather improved, I felt better and we found ourselves joining most of the local village on the beach, where a huge bonfire was lit. When the sun went down everyone clapped. Sometimes effigies of witches are burnt on the bonfires.

The bridge across Roskilde Fjord opens on the hour

We now had a date for Dodo’s funeral. Simon booked tickets for us on EasyJet. We’d fly from Copenhagen to Edinburgh. We decided to return to Zealand, after talking to fellow yachties. They recommended the harbour at Lynaes. Jeremy phoned the harbourmaster and made enquiries.  The next day, we sailed east with the genoa poled out and a brisk, following wind. We stayed at Lynaes and made arrangements for Sal Darago to be left there for 9 nights. We had a weekend free before we flew to Scotland and decided to go up the fjord and visit Roskilde, which was once the main town of the Vikings.

Preserved Viking ship

It took us an hour to anchor outside the yacht haven in the designated anchorage. Our anchor kept dragging in the soft mud and finally held on the fourth attempt. We had time to go ashore and wander round the outside section of the Viking Ship museum, where replicas of Viking ships had been built using traditional methods and materials.

Roskilde Cathedral

The following day, we went ashore and spent the morning in the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Roskilde Cathedral, where 37 kings and queens of Denmark are interred in various chapels. The cathedral is unusual as it is constructed of brick in French Gothic/Romanesque style.  It was very light inside with much of it painted white, although some of the side chapels had decorated walls. It felt more like a mausoleum than a church, but it was impressive.

Ancient and modern altar

After lunch in a rib house, we visited the indoor part of the Viking Ship Museum. Here five original Viking ships, dating from1064ish, were recovered from the fjord and had been painstakingly pieced together. Our guide told us the ships had been deliberately sunk and used to form a barrier in a narrow part of the fjord, probably to protect the town from an invasion in Viking times. We’d had a dry day but the rain began as we left the museum and we had a wet dinghy ride back to Sal Darago.

St George kills the dragon every hour

The following week from 29^th June to 6^th July we were back in the UK. We stayed with Simon and Erin in Edinburgh, hired a car and drove to Mull for Dodo’s funeral. It was a moving service with many members of the Spencer family present, supported by friends and neighbours in Tobermory, Isle of Mull. Jeremy hurt his back during the week and could hardly move for the pain by the time we returned to Edinburgh.

Back on Sal Darago, after shoppping and doing a load of laundry, we motorsailed 25 miles back to Odden. The weather had been hot and sunny while we’d been away. Now that we were back gales were forecast and we remained in harbour for the next four days. This gave a little bit of time for Jeremy’s back to ease up and for us to finalise our plans to return home.

Clearly, there was little point in beating against the westerly winds to Limfjord. We would have to go south down Store Sound as soon as the weather was suitable and through the Kiel Canal.

Denmark 3

Store Bridge from Korsor

The gale had ceased at Udbyhoj the next morning leaving a brisk wind and fast sailing conditions. We made 6 knots with just the genoa poled out and 7 knots later with a reefed mainsail and small genoa. It was cold, even with fleeces, full ocean waterproofs and woolly hats. It was 15^th June and felt like October. I wore winter outer gloves over my sailing gloves to keep my hands warm. We took the straightforward north channel to Langor Harbour on Samso and anchored for the night.

We had a good sailing wind from the west the next day. I added a gillet and a Damart balaclava to my sailing wardrobe and I was snug all the way to Korsor, which is just south of the amazing Store Bridge. A friendly welcome awaited us. We were given the phone number of the Harbourmaster at Christanhavns Kanal in Copenhagen. Once again the sailing was good in comfortable seas and a little warmer. The wind increased and the mainsail had to be reefed. By the time we reached the harbour at Stubbekobing, it was raining as well.

The cliffs at Klint

 It was still raining when we left next morning and we knew to expect W-NW winds of 16-20 knots. We were going north towards Copenhagen. We passed a rare sight in Denmark, impressive cliffs at Klint, which we were admiring when the first squall hit us. The mainsail was reefed and the genoa furled as the gusts reached 24 knots. We had uncomfortable seas for a while but made good speed. More squalls and gusts up to 30 knots welcomed us to the bridge across the sound to Malmo in Sweden. Here we took a channel to port and lost sight of the bridge in the next squall. This time the funnelling wind reached gale force at 36 knots. We were relieved to tie up in Dragor Harbour on the island of Amager, close to Copenhagen.

DUCK!

Jeremy phoned the Harbourmaster at Christianhavns Kanal and we were told he had a berth for us alongside a steamboat called Tripiaka. The name, Sal Darago, would be on the boat. It was an amazing experience motoring into the canal system of Copenhagen, after passing many industrial sites on the way. Aircraft coming in to land appeared to almost scrape the mast and ships had to be avoided as they turned into various docks. We passed the Little Mermaid and gasped in amazment at the Opera House, where people were on the roof and diving off into the canal. 

This place was a real dive

Our GPS stopped working just when we needed it most, but we found the right entrance to the canal at the third attempt. We were not expecting a bridge. Luckily for us, it was almost time for it to open and we passed through into a canal congested with boats moored on both sides and lots of river boats packed with tourists.

Spot Sal Darago at Wilders Plad

Jeremy spotted the steamboat down a sidearm of the canal called Wilders Plad. Another yacht was tied to it right next to the sign with our boat’s name on it. Three harbourmasters sorted out the problem and we tied to a motorcruiser for the night.

It was Friday night and everyone said we should go to Tivoli to the free Friday night rock concert. We walked there, paid almost 100kr(10GBP) each for entry, and found ourselves in a large park which seemed to be a mixture of fairground, theatre and places to eat. We ate at Viften, dashed off to see a ballet/pantomime called The Tailor Deceived, wandered round arcades and found a place at the back of a huge crowd to watch Jesse J perform. She put on a great show. We left the audience briefly to watch a fascinating laser and smoke light show over the lake in the park.

When we returned to Sal Darago after midnight, our thoughts were with Jeremy’s aunt, Dodo, and our daughter, Emily. We had received a text message earlier from Em, who was on holiday on Mull with her family, telling us that Dodo was in hospital having fallen in her bedroom during the night. She was comfortable, but exhausted.

The next day we received another text message. Dodo had died peacefully in her sleep during the night. Tears flowed as we phoned Em from the top of the hop on, hop off sightseeing  bus. We looked at the sights, we listened to the commentary but it all seemed unimportant and the rain on the bus windows appropriate for our mood.

Very Little Mermaid

 In the afternoon we walked around Christiana, which was once a military base and was now a self-governing area of central Copenhagen. It was originally occupied by squatters in the early 70’s and was now an experiment in alternative, ecological living. In the Green Zone the smell of pot smoking was heavy in the air. Beyond this, alternative houses bordered a huge lake and we enjoyed walking through the woods and back to Sal Darago in Wilders Plad.

One of Christiana's eco houses.

We had planned on visiting the Museum and a Round Tower on Sunday, but I was very sick all through the morning and into the afternoon. Jeremy had to move the boat for the third time; this time by himself. On Monday morning I had recovered sufficiently to help Jeremy reverse out of Wilders Plad and after waiting for the lift bridge, we set sail for Sweden.

Denmark 2

We woke to a howling wind and wondered whether it was sensible to go cycling. The bikes were standing together with a box for the money (70kr or 7pounds each for the day). It was 7^th June and Robert said he’d never worn so many clothes to go cycling in June. It was cold. We went north to Norby where we had lunch and on to the most northerly tip of Samso. There were fabulous views but it was hard work cycling on gravel and grass tracks up and down hills. We detoured on the way back to see the remains of a canal built by the Vikings across the narrowest part of the island so that they could escape from their enemies in either direction.

Robert and Kathy at the Viking Canal

The next day we had a pleasant sail to Begtrup Vig on Jutland and anchored behind Ronnen Island. We had a calm and peaceful night. As Robert had to return to work on the following day, we motored in warm and sunny conditions to Aarhus and berthed at a sailing club in Lystbode Yacht Haven. Lene drove over from Randers and collected Robert. We would see them again soon when we sailed up Randers fjord. Meanwhile, there was cooking gas to buy, laundry to do, charts to purchase and the sights of Denmark’s second city to see.

Jeremy and Kathy in the Rainbow Walkway

 We used the free town bikes. I went to the laundry and Jeremy cycled to Ega Yacht Haven, about 10 kilometres north. He arrived back absolutely exhausted and without the chart he wanted! Being a beggar for punishment he was soon on his bike again for a circuitous route round roadworks and pedestrian area to the world renowned ARoS Kunstmuseum. Careful how you say it! The building is topped by a Rainbow Walkway with super views over Aarhus in all colours of.....yes, you’ve guessed...the rainbow. We walked down 9 floors of exhibitions including art galleries displaying different genres, a video creation on 4 screens in a dark room, a rainbow fog experience and a stunning larger than life sculpture of a boy. When we returned to the bike park our city bikes had gone. We had to walk 2 kilometres back to Sal Darago, pausing only for Danish pastry and cake.

He's a big boy

We arrived in Randers fjord two days later having spent a night in Grenaa Yacht Haven. About half way up the fjord we were flagged down by two men who had gone out fishing in a small boat. Their outboard engine had broken down and they were 3 or 4 miles from their harbour. We towed them almost to the entrance of their harbour.

Rescue in Randers Fjord

Robert suggested tying up at Uggelhuse, which was about 10 miles from his house. We had to tie to the outside berth as the yacht haven was tiny and shallow – under 1m. At 80kr a night it was the cheapest so far. We were invited to the club’s lunch the following day. Robert and Lene came for us that evening and treated us to a lovely salmon dinner in their bungalow. We had hot showers and Lene insisted on doing another load of laundry for us.

Lene, Jeremy and Robert at King Hamlet's grave

At Uggelhuse the next day, the Commodore, who spoke no English, arranged for a young couple to sit next to us. We chatted to Ann and Christian, enjoyed our fish platter and copied the locals by placing the fish on half a slice of bread and eating it with a knife and fork. Live music was provided by 3 men playing guitar, accordion and keyboard and singing folk and classic pop songs mainly in English. Later, Robert and Lene came for us and took us to see King Hamlet’s grave and other sights. A delicious roast lamb dinner at their house ended a wonderful day.

Jeremy, Julian at the wheel, Robert and Lene

The next day was Sunday and it was quite windy. Robert, Lene and Julian came to Sal Darago and we motorsailed up the rest of the fjord to Randers. Lene helped me shop at two supermarkets and saved me money by checking my bill. We should have stayed at the wharf for lunch but Jeremy was determined to anchor and nearly ran aground several times looking for a suitable place. We enjoyed a huge picnic with wine on board SD before motoring back to Uggelhuse in an increasingly gusty wind. Here, we said our goodbyes and Jeremy and I motored on to Udbyhoj North Harbour at the mouth of the fjord with a small genoa flying and a gale blowing. Tying up was a nightmare. No-one came to help. Somehow, I managed to climb over the pulpit and thread a line through a staple which was low down below the pontoon.  Jeremy had managed to put a loop of line over a stern post, so with much pulling and pushing with and without engine power, we finally had SD tied up about an hour later. 

Berthed at Randers

Denmark 1

Bagenkop Yacht Haven, Langeland

Jeremy on King Humble's grave

Jeremy's jet

 Did you know that there are over 400 Danish islands? It was a surprise to me and highlighted my ignorance as regards Danish geography.

Submarine at Langeland Fort

Being seasoned world travellers, we arrived at Bagenkop on the island of Langeland with no Danish kroner. Unfortunately, the nearest ATM was 10 kilometres away and with no money to hire bikes or pay the bus fare, we thought we were in for a long walk. Fortunately, the local supermarket was willing to change 100 euros into kroner, so we were able to buy food. We caught the bus to Humble and found the ATM. We had two hours to wait for the return bus and agreed that the return bus fare of 120kr (12 pounds) was quite a lot to pay for a visit to an ATM. We made use of the time by visiting King Humble’s grave, an impressive 22m long barrow said to be the burial place of a king from 3000BC, which was in the middle of a field.

Anyone for lunch!

Torpedo loaded

Minesweeper

We decided to visit Langeland Fort the next day and perhaps a carriage museum. We woke to heavy rain and strong winds. Later in the day the weather improved so we set off walking. Half way there we had to put on waterproof trousers as another blustery shower pelted us. The fort was amazing. It was a museum on the site of a Cold War installation. We were allowed to go down bunkers, raise and lower big guns and see how shells were transported on lifts. There were many displays, some untouched like the remains of fighter planes in a field and others in purpose built areas or hangars. The most interesting was a submarine, which had been in service until 2002. We wandered through the cramped space full of dials and levers leading to 8 torpedo tubes. Other fascinating exhibits included a minesweeper, a Russian single seater MIG and a Danish fighter plane with delta wings and lots of bombs, rockets and guns. We spent 5 hours wandering round the extensive site in the wind and rain. We must have looked worn out because the man on duty at the gift shop gave us cups of hot chocolate for free and a kind couple offered us a lift back to the harbour in their car.

Bombs away!

We didn’t make it to the carriage museum and left Bakenkop the next day for Aeroskobing on the island of Aero. The wind was still strong but it was only a short trip across a channel and we enjoyed the short, boisterous sail. We didn’t enjoy the wind rising to gale force as we crossed sandbanks in a narrow channel. Jeremy reefed the mainsail in record time. We anchored outside the harbour and used our dinghy to go ashore and land at some old steps in the harbour wall. At 5pm, Aeroskobing was almost deserted as we wandered round cobbled streets lined with pretty thatched cottages. On the other side of the harbour we found a Netto supermarket. Prices were very similar to the UK.

Wow! They really work.

Our main purpose for sailing to Denmark was to visit our friend, Robert and his wife, Lene and their two teenage boys, Julian and Patrick. Jeremy and Robert had been school friends 50 years ago and had not seen each other for 7 years. Robert was keen to sail with us and we arranged to meet at Middlefart on the island of Fyn. We motorsailed up the Lillebelt and anchored in a bay opposite Middlefart off the island of Feno. The next day (15^th June) we met Robert and Lene. It was Constitution Day, a public holiday in Denmark. The sun was shining and we all had lunch on board Sal Darago. Lene left us and Robert, Jeremy and I had a mixed passage to Julesminde, Sandvjerg Vig. At first it was hot and sunny. We motored. We sailed. Robert steered under one of the bridges across the Sound. Soon we had wind over current, choppy conditions and 21 knots of wind. It was much easier having three of us to manage the lines in our “box” at the yacht haven. Most marinas in Denmark cost about 150kr (15 pounds a night) and usually include hot showers. In the UK it often costs twice this amount. We enjoyed sharing the pork casserole Robert had made. He even brought the rice to go with it.

Robert and Jeremy

Robert at the helm

We had some excellent sailing the next day as we headed for the island of Samso. Jeremy took Robert down below to explain about NECO and show him how the instruments worked. Sadly, this made Robert feel seasick and later we had to pass him the bucket. Meanwhile, Sal Darago was creaming along at almost top speed of 7 knots. Robert took the helm and soon began to feel better. We used our electronic navigation system called MaxSea to help us navigate the tricky channel into Langor Harbour on Samso. We anchored in a sheltered bay outside the harbour. The wind blew hard in the night but all was well on SalDarago.

Old friends