Still in Reunion

After our foray into the hills, I developed a very sore throat and despite Cathy’s antibiotics (a nurse sailing on Erica), it took two weeks for me to recover. During this time we were not entirely idle. Kathy went daily to the Marina office and to the parcel office at the Post Office, which was a fair distance away. We were waiting for Kathy’s prescription medicines and a parcel of travel books from Simon (Amazon – please use them everyone!). We filled the batteries with distilled water, filled the diesel fuel oil and bought more diesel at the marina. There is an extensive “beach” market on Saturday mornings with four rows of stalls for a quarter of a mile selling fruit and veg and local handicrafts, which we struggled through in the heat. We took the bus to Decathlon, a huge warehouse shop of sporting equipment. Here we both bought sandals. The greatest problem, apart from the lack of mail was this laptop. It decided not to turn on when the on button was pressed. We consulted the computer guru and understood that a capacitor was holding a charge and had to be shorted while the battery and power was off. This we could do if the power button was pressed and another finger touched the touch pad. Sadly, this did not work. On the internet, we read that we should disconnect all power and press the on button for twenty seconds. Sadly, this did not work. Finally, I took the laptop to bits (as in several pieces). This worked, but took an hour or more.

How to turn a laptop on?

On 10 November, the marina office called to say that the parcel from Simon had been delivered, but then returned to the PO. We hot footed it to the PO, only to discover that the postman had the parcel still and the note we received (in French – obviously) said we should come to the PO the next morning. Roman and Marianne, neighbours in the marina came to SD for drinks and we were joined by Stephan from Pas de Deux, whom we had met in Mauritius. We collected the parcel in the morning and that evening we were aboard Pas de Deux for a feast. Stephan and Annece had prepared many goodies for the eight neighbours who joined them. On Saturday morning, after the market and supermarket, we decided to motor out of the marina and have lunch at sea. It was rough. Kathy decided that I could prepare lunch, after I had scrubbed the propeller and the bottom. We were glad to be back in our marina berth. Later that evening we joined many of the locals and some of the international boat crews at a barbeque provided by the locals (Roman, Marianne, Stephan and Annece – I think). It was a lovely, relaxed evening and we were grateful for the kindness shown to us. We did feel part of the Reunion boating family.

The next day I took the starter motor to bits. It was making a rather unengaging sound as it tried to engage the flywheel. It is better, but not right – a bench and vice are required. A young man from Hanuman suggested we use an anti-humidity spray on the laptop. We went to the local shop and the assistant said we could try that but (he agreed with Simon) that it would be best to put the laptop in the bin. Stephan again helped us by going on his motor bike to the specialist shop to buy the spray which cost £25! The man in the shop suggested that by now the damage was done from the damp which is constant on a boat – he was actually surprised it (the laptop which cost £800 18 months ago in NZ) had lasted “that” long. It would not rectify the problem but it might help save our next laptop. I took the laptop to pieces (I was getting quite quick and blasé at it), thoroughly sprayed it and left it for twenty four hours. IT WORKS – SO FAR.

On Sunday evening Kathy and I were invited to Martine and Daniel’s house for dinner. It was a short walk up the hill to their very pleasing home. We were shown around, had drinks by the pool and chatted in English and French (you remember we met Martine and Alice on the bus and later, Martine took us to the volcano). Dinner was cooked by Daniel. We had rice, beans, and chicken in a Creole sauce, all of which is called “Kari”. This was followed by a selection of cheeses (Camembert, Gorgonzola, goats’ cheese and two others the names of which escape me). Finally, we had an apple flan. It was a most agreeable evening.

Pito de Cabris on our walk along Sentier Scout

First thing Monday morning (15.10.12) Kathy went to the PO and the laundrette; more success at the latter. In the engine compartment we have had a diesel fuel oil leak for some weeks. I had traced it to the top of the high pressure diesel fuel oil pump or the oil filter (unlikely). I really did not want to take this sensitive piece of equipment to pieces but I had to. I think the O rings had gone. It was tricky and took me until three pm before the engine was running again. We shall have to see if it has been a success when we are out at sea.

So Kathy and I were fed up of me being ill, no parcels and generally being stuck in so we decided to hire a car to go walking at the other end of Reunion. Our target price was E(Euros) 30. The best we could find was E37. The worst E65! Stephan, whom we met walking out of the marina, said he would search for us. He phoned later with an offer we could not refuse of E20 per day. The only problem was that the business was 15 kilometres away and by now it was 5pm. Stephan offered to take us there. Everything was fine except the lady asked for E800 CASH deposit against accidents. Kathy and I had about two hundred. Once again Stephan came up trumps, signing a cheque for E800. To be honest, I am not sure that I would have done the same in the UK. I have to say that the people here have been terrifically generous.

I wouldn't swap my little wooden hut for you, Ilet de Malheur.

We left the marina at 0600 and were at the start of the walk at 0930. Worryingly it was mostly downhill, as on this occasion we had to return to the car. The route we took was called Sentier Scout and it led to Ilet de Malheur. We arrived early and walked on for half an hour, then returned for 1500, when the gites were open. Monsieur Hoarau, the maître de gite was most welcoming and showed us to our own private “bungalow” and another “bungalow” which contained our private shower and toilet. We had a good night there and the food was pleasing too. However, by 0800 the next morning we said our au revoirs and set off on the Sentier Augustave. There was a cyclone just to the east of Reunion and we were warned to be off the sentier by 1400 as the path became dangerous in the wet. Fortunately, we made it by 1350 as the rain started.

This is tricky! The path is centre, 100feet drop to left and rock wall to right,

We returned the car the next morning, after a quick shop at the local Geant supermarket. We returned Stephan’s cheque with many thanks and I wondered if he would have slept soundly if he had driven with me before signing the cheque ;-) It was raining heavily as we returned the car and once again we thanked our guiding star for smiling on us. That evening we sat in the cockpit of Sal Darago and entertained Martine and Daniel. Both are keen musicians (Daniel is a Professeur in a specialist music school), so naturally Kathy played her guitar and we all sang songs.

Daniel and Martine in Sal Darago's cockpit

Today, Friday 19 October, the parcel with Kathy’s medicines arrived, so we are now free to sail to South Africa, when the swell from the cyclone abates and the winds swing in our favour. The people of Reunion and especially those in the marina have been most kind to us orphan waifs and the walks have been equal to any we have trekked in the world.