Still in Reunion

After our foray into the hills, I developed a very sore throat and despite Cathy’s antibiotics (a nurse sailing on Erica), it took two weeks for me to recover. During this time we were not entirely idle. Kathy went daily to the Marina office and to the parcel office at the Post Office, which was a fair distance away. We were waiting for Kathy’s prescription medicines and a parcel of travel books from Simon (Amazon – please use them everyone!). We filled the batteries with distilled water, filled the diesel fuel oil and bought more diesel at the marina. There is an extensive “beach” market on Saturday mornings with four rows of stalls for a quarter of a mile selling fruit and veg and local handicrafts, which we struggled through in the heat. We took the bus to Decathlon, a huge warehouse shop of sporting equipment. Here we both bought sandals. The greatest problem, apart from the lack of mail was this laptop. It decided not to turn on when the on button was pressed. We consulted the computer guru and understood that a capacitor was holding a charge and had to be shorted while the battery and power was off. This we could do if the power button was pressed and another finger touched the touch pad. Sadly, this did not work. On the internet, we read that we should disconnect all power and press the on button for twenty seconds. Sadly, this did not work. Finally, I took the laptop to bits (as in several pieces). This worked, but took an hour or more.

How to turn a laptop on?

On 10 November, the marina office called to say that the parcel from Simon had been delivered, but then returned to the PO. We hot footed it to the PO, only to discover that the postman had the parcel still and the note we received (in French – obviously) said we should come to the PO the next morning. Roman and Marianne, neighbours in the marina came to SD for drinks and we were joined by Stephan from Pas de Deux, whom we had met in Mauritius. We collected the parcel in the morning and that evening we were aboard Pas de Deux for a feast. Stephan and Annece had prepared many goodies for the eight neighbours who joined them. On Saturday morning, after the market and supermarket, we decided to motor out of the marina and have lunch at sea. It was rough. Kathy decided that I could prepare lunch, after I had scrubbed the propeller and the bottom. We were glad to be back in our marina berth. Later that evening we joined many of the locals and some of the international boat crews at a barbeque provided by the locals (Roman, Marianne, Stephan and Annece – I think). It was a lovely, relaxed evening and we were grateful for the kindness shown to us. We did feel part of the Reunion boating family.

The next day I took the starter motor to bits. It was making a rather unengaging sound as it tried to engage the flywheel. It is better, but not right – a bench and vice are required. A young man from Hanuman suggested we use an anti-humidity spray on the laptop. We went to the local shop and the assistant said we could try that but (he agreed with Simon) that it would be best to put the laptop in the bin. Stephan again helped us by going on his motor bike to the specialist shop to buy the spray which cost £25! The man in the shop suggested that by now the damage was done from the damp which is constant on a boat – he was actually surprised it (the laptop which cost £800 18 months ago in NZ) had lasted “that” long. It would not rectify the problem but it might help save our next laptop. I took the laptop to pieces (I was getting quite quick and blasé at it), thoroughly sprayed it and left it for twenty four hours. IT WORKS – SO FAR.

On Sunday evening Kathy and I were invited to Martine and Daniel’s house for dinner. It was a short walk up the hill to their very pleasing home. We were shown around, had drinks by the pool and chatted in English and French (you remember we met Martine and Alice on the bus and later, Martine took us to the volcano). Dinner was cooked by Daniel. We had rice, beans, and chicken in a Creole sauce, all of which is called “Kari”. This was followed by a selection of cheeses (Camembert, Gorgonzola, goats’ cheese and two others the names of which escape me). Finally, we had an apple flan. It was a most agreeable evening.

Pito de Cabris on our walk along Sentier Scout

First thing Monday morning (15.10.12) Kathy went to the PO and the laundrette; more success at the latter. In the engine compartment we have had a diesel fuel oil leak for some weeks. I had traced it to the top of the high pressure diesel fuel oil pump or the oil filter (unlikely). I really did not want to take this sensitive piece of equipment to pieces but I had to. I think the O rings had gone. It was tricky and took me until three pm before the engine was running again. We shall have to see if it has been a success when we are out at sea.

So Kathy and I were fed up of me being ill, no parcels and generally being stuck in so we decided to hire a car to go walking at the other end of Reunion. Our target price was E(Euros) 30. The best we could find was E37. The worst E65! Stephan, whom we met walking out of the marina, said he would search for us. He phoned later with an offer we could not refuse of E20 per day. The only problem was that the business was 15 kilometres away and by now it was 5pm. Stephan offered to take us there. Everything was fine except the lady asked for E800 CASH deposit against accidents. Kathy and I had about two hundred. Once again Stephan came up trumps, signing a cheque for E800. To be honest, I am not sure that I would have done the same in the UK. I have to say that the people here have been terrifically generous.

I wouldn't swap my little wooden hut for you, Ilet de Malheur.

We left the marina at 0600 and were at the start of the walk at 0930. Worryingly it was mostly downhill, as on this occasion we had to return to the car. The route we took was called Sentier Scout and it led to Ilet de Malheur. We arrived early and walked on for half an hour, then returned for 1500, when the gites were open. Monsieur Hoarau, the maître de gite was most welcoming and showed us to our own private “bungalow” and another “bungalow” which contained our private shower and toilet. We had a good night there and the food was pleasing too. However, by 0800 the next morning we said our au revoirs and set off on the Sentier Augustave. There was a cyclone just to the east of Reunion and we were warned to be off the sentier by 1400 as the path became dangerous in the wet. Fortunately, we made it by 1350 as the rain started.

This is tricky! The path is centre, 100feet drop to left and rock wall to right,

We returned the car the next morning, after a quick shop at the local Geant supermarket. We returned Stephan’s cheque with many thanks and I wondered if he would have slept soundly if he had driven with me before signing the cheque ;-) It was raining heavily as we returned the car and once again we thanked our guiding star for smiling on us. That evening we sat in the cockpit of Sal Darago and entertained Martine and Daniel. Both are keen musicians (Daniel is a Professeur in a specialist music school), so naturally Kathy played her guitar and we all sang songs.

Daniel and Martine in Sal Darago's cockpit

Today, Friday 19 October, the parcel with Kathy’s medicines arrived, so we are now free to sail to South Africa, when the swell from the cyclone abates and the winds swing in our favour. The people of Reunion and especially those in the marina have been most kind to us orphan waifs and the walks have been equal to any we have trekked in the world.

Two weeks in St Pierre, Reunion.

From Sailors to Hikers?

We settled in at St Pierre. Our friends on Leto, Peter and Cathy gave us much information about walking in the Cirques which are the mountainous regions of Reunion left by extinct volcanoes. There are three of them. Cirque Mafate is only accessible by foot! We entertained and were entertained by Brian and Dorothy on Tagish. They are Canadians and had been on the Sail Indonesia Rally with us. On Tuesday, 18.09.12, Kathy broke her tooth while eating breakfast. We were directed to a nearby dentist by the marina office (no one there speaks English). After a ten minute wait M. Arnault saw and treated Kathy. He had sailed around the world 12 years earlier and decided to settle in Reunion. He spoke good English and refused to charge Kathy for the treatment. Two days later we walked to the other side of town to a Decathlon store where we bought new walking shoes for Kathy, new socks for both of us and a proper stick for Jeremy (his age is showing;-).

The cirque de Cilaos

After arising at 4.50am we caught three buses to the start of a walk in Cirque Cilaos. The bus ride to Cilaos from St Louis was spectacular with many 180 degree bends, tunnels and always a giddy drop below. On the bus we met Martine, a retired teacher, who lives in St Pierre and Alice, her niece, who was on holiday from Paris. The walk from Bras Sec to Palmiste Rouge was magnificent and mostly downhill after the first 40 minutes strenuously up. We passed through intricate gorges with streams begging to be swum, but too much time would be spent and lotions would have to be reapplied. Lunch in Palmiste Rouge was sandwiches with the local primary school above us. A few children on lunch break tried to attract our attention. The afternoon walk was more arduous, but after 35 minutes we discovered the route was “FERME”. We walked back up to the main road and down beyond Peter Both where we saw our intended route was indeed closed. Happily we were just at a bus stop, when the bus arrived and took us swiftly and cheaply back to St Pierre.

The churh at St Benoit

The next day, we were up at 4.50am to catch the bus to St Benoit. We had an excellent view from the bus as we had the front seat both ways. The drive took about three hours each way and saved us having to hire a car to do the trip. St Benoit was a quiet town/village with little to recommend itself to us except the church. The tourist office was 10Km away, which was not helpful. The open fruit and vegetable market was colourful and extensive. We had lunch and caught the bus home. On Sunday we rested.

The caldera of La Fournaise with Le Piton de Neige centre background

We lay in until 5.10am on Monday before being picked up near the marina by Martine and Alice. Martine drove us for one and a half hours to the start of the volcano walk. La Fournaise was last active in 2009, but seemed fairly dormant to us. The 12 km walk from the car park and back is quite challenging. The summit of the volcano is some 2500 metres high (about 8200 feet) and the walking can be difficult. Naturally we were a fair way up when we started; however to get into the caldera, one first has to go down 300 metres on steps. This is easy, but once in one has to get out! We had a good day, but Kathy’s old walking shoes indicated how rough the terrain had been by beginning to fall apart. 

Kathy, Jeremy and Alice at the summit

At the summit the volcano’s cone had collapsed in on itself forming a crater 300 metres deep with unstable sides. Looking in was hazardous. We returned to the car tired, but happy that the nuage (clouds) had kept away all day.

Our gite at Trios Roche, Marla.

The following day was a rush preparing food, clothes and booking accommodation for three nights in the inaccessible Cirque de Mafate. Brian and Dorothy were to accompany us on the first day and night, but then they were to hare ahead of us as they were leaving for South Africa four days after completing the walk. On Wednesday, after another early start, we caught the three buses to beyond Cilaos and began our ascent to Col du Taibit and the clamber down to Marla. To be honest the climb up was tiring. We climbed about 3000 feet in three hours. Poor Kathy had to wear brand new walking shoes and we were both aware that we still had three more days to go. The only way out was by walking … or helicopter. At the top there was a view, but the clouds shortened it considerably and we walked down to our gite at “Trois Roche”, Marla. The building we were in had two bedrooms containing 4 bunk beds each and a toilet and shower room. Brian and Dorothy slept in our room and apparently Jeremy snores! The evening meal was a glass of rum, salad crudité (kind of coleslaw as a starter), rice, lentil soup, chicken and sausages; followed by a very heavy soggy cake with a brown sauce which may have been chocolate. None of us slept very well. It was very cold and Kathy and I had all our clothes on.

The start of the ravine at Trios Roche. Col du Taibit visible - back centre  right

The mornings in the Cirques are glorious before the clouds arrive and the views and the walking are spectacular. We proceeded down the river valley to an area called Trios Roche (confusing, but one could see this from the Gite named after it, a bit like Dhoirlinn View). Here the substantial river dropped down a ravine. Fortunately we took another route and after walking for about six hours in total we reached our second gite at Roche Plate. The most attractive feature about this gite was its balcony, from which there was a first class view and Juliette, who ran the place, sold beers! Kathy and I relaxed on the balcony and drank in the beautiful sights whilst sipping our Bourbon beers. We were joined in our dormitory by four, French, retired females on holiday in Reunion. The evening meal consisted of rum, salad crudité, rice, sausages, lentil soup and a heavy, soggy cake.

Going down to Roche Plate

On our third day, we walked mostly downhill through spectacular gorges, with helicopters buzzing back and forth above us. We came to Ilet des Oranges by midday where there was a café, but, as we had had to carry all our lunch time food with us, as no one could guarantee that any cafes would be open, we continued past it. We seemed to be going towards river level. There would be a turn and we would climb up for half an hour, followed by a rapid descent. The path ahead would be near but across an abyss which required us to walk round the contour line for twenty minutes. Finally, we arrived at the bridge crossing the gorge. It was 5620 feet below the Col du Taibit, but the only way from there was up. After a mere 650 feet upwards we came to our final gite at Grand Place Cayenne. Here we had booked a room to ourselves. We need not have bothered as there were no other walkers and we were served rum, salad crudité, rice, lentil soup, chicken and … baby bananas. The chicken was delicious and Kathy and I enjoyed having the dining room to ourselves.

A very Alpine peak

We had to walk back to the river the following morning, which was incidentally a Saturday and thus very busy. Once we had marched for several kilometres along the river bed we joined a track. Here we were nearly run down by mountain bikers doing their thing. It was most disconcerting.

Kathy crossing the Riviere de Gallets

To return to St Pierre we had to catch two buses. The local one could only be caught from a place called Dos d’Ane. The bus times were 1345, 1555. Not too frequent. It had been my idea to catch the earlier bus and we had set off at 0815. Sadly Dos d’Ane is not quite on the river. It is more than 2600 feet above the river, but extraordinarily close to the river. We thus had to climb virtually vertically for around three hours. The path was not in good condition and at frequent points it was possible to look directly down to the river as in STRAIGHT down. Often the path was only a foot wide and frequently it was crumbling.

A final look down to the river and Le port in the distance

We were pleased when we reached Dos d’Ane village, despite arriving five minutes after the bus was timetabled to leave. Children’s voices could be heard singing in the church and as we passed, Kathy said we must be in Heaven. Her next statement was, “The bus is still here” and I burst into a trot. We caught it and were soon back in the cocoon of Sal Darago safe from the ups and downs of the gruelling but magnificent mountains.