Sumbawa

Our first anchorage on Sumbawa was at Teluk Wera, a fishing village where they build the large traditional fishing/cargo boats. There was a bogus harbour maaster here who paddled out to the boats at anchor in his outrigger canoe. He was wearing a uniform and asking for an anchorage fee. Other boats warned us so we refused to pay and did not let him climb on board. He went away with a packet of cigarettes, which we gave him for his "friend". The next morning, as we waited for Liz and Graham from "Ellida" to pick us up in their dinghy, we saw a local man jump into the sea from his fishing boat and swim towards his canoe which had drifted away. He got into difficuties and shouted to us. We waved to Liz and Graham and they went to the rescue. Both man and canoe were returned safely to the fishing boat. Then the real harbourmaster paddled out to us wearing a uniform and ID. There was no escape this time and we had to pay 75,000 Rupiah (7.50 dollars). Jeremy persuaded him to lower the price from 100,000 Rupiah. Ashore we were allowed to go up a ramp to see the inside of the boat under construction on the beach. Clearly there were amazing woodworking skills but there was also access to mains electricity, power tools and a chain saw.

Our next stop as we sailed west along the north coast of Sumbawa, was at the bustling town of Bima.