Phuket

Christmas Day was spent in Chalong just south of Phuket Town. We had Christmas Lunch organised by Shirley of THE ROAD; you can just see her standing wearing the Santa Claus hat, in a local restaurant. The food was delicious; choice of soups, roast beef/ pork with, mash, roasts, two lovely Yorkshire puddings, a host of veg and lashings of gravy. Dessert was mince pies with either ice cream or custard. All this washed down with a glass of wine. Total cost was £10 each!

We were able to replace our shredding shroud (a bit of stainless steel wire which holds the mast up) and have our mainsail repaired in Chalong at the impressive sail loft of Rolly Tasker. The weather was not too kind and we did get wet in the large, wind driven waves. We left Chalong for Patong, a seedy place to spend New Year, "well known for prostitutes, ladyboys and junkies". We understand that it also has the best firework display in Thailand for the New Year. We stopped on the way at Nai Han Beach, pictured. The surf was high, but we got through to have lunch ashore and visit the Royal Phuket Yacht Club.

So Goodbye to 2011 - what a fantastic year. We hope all our readers have a brilliant 2012.

Hole in the Wall and Sky Bridge

On our circumnavigation of Langkawi, after the rigours of Kuah, we decided to go to the Kilim Geoforest Park for some rest and relaxation. The entrance to the KGF is through the Hole in the Wall, pictured here. What we did not know was that it is a MAJOR tourist attraction on the island where thousands of tourists clamber aboard local fast boats. The idea presumably is to take in the ambiance of the Geo Park. This idea has been lost and now the constant stream of hurtling boats seem intent on beating each other back to the start jetty to take the next load of tourists. Quite a number of the boats passed within a couple of feet of Sal Darago at over 30 knots. The noise and the motion were grim until 6pm.
We left the Kilim Park early the next morning and returned to Telaga, where we refueled, filled the water tanks and walked, on a beautifully still morning, to the Langkawi Cable Car which takes one to the top of Mount Mat Cincang - over 2000 feet. The cable car was closed because of STRONG winds? We walked back to SD. In the afternoon we saw the cars were moving and returned to the Cable Car Station. Here we understood how five million visitors had ridden the cars in six years... they had queued a long time. The eventual ride (£6 each) was fantastic and the views were beautiful over Malaysia and Thailand beyond. The Skybridge walk was amazing and one could not help but feel sorry for those creeping along it with an obvious fear of heights. Goodbye Malaysia; hopefully we'll be back in February.

Kuah, Langkawi

Having sorted the immediate problem of the dinghy, we were able to enjoy some of the performances associated with LIMA, Langkawi International Maritime and Aerospace (Festival), which is celebrated every two years. There were big air displays and most of the Malaysian Navy were anchored on our route from Rebak to Kuah - all dressed overall for us - it is kind of these people to give us such a welcome. The rather frightening man in the picture was really quite friendly and posed for me before giving a friendly wave, but apart from being a traditional dance in local costume, we could only guess that the dance was associated with harvest and fertility. It was odd that the male figures seemed pregnant?

Say what you will, the Malaysians certainly understand brash. This is a modest hotel near the anchorage in Kuah. Kathy and I had to walk past it regularly on our quest for spare parts and provisions. On this road on Wednesdays and Saturdays, a night market is set up, with the stalls selling mostly food. The Malaysian people often have no need to cook. Kathy and I regularly purchased a full meal with a drink each for 12 Ringgit, which is less than £2.50. It would be difficult to buy the ingredients here for less.

Langkawi, Dinghies!

So this is what the Honwave dinghy looked like just before it got the heave ho. We managed to get ashore at Kuah, Langkawi's main town, but on the way back to SD the smaller of the two clamps popped off and we were in danger of sinking or at least getting very wet. We decided that we would have to buy the first available dinghy even if it did not meet all our requirements. After all the first requirement is to float.

At Royal Langkawi Yacht Club, Kuah, there is a Yacht Shop where Paul agreed to sell us a new RIB Quicksilver 2.6 metre inflatable dinghy. It was too long, and did not fold up, but at least it was water tight. Until we put it in the water. Yes, our new two thousand pound (nearly) dinghy was leaking water in two places. I fixed the first leak around the towing eye, but for the second leak, around the tube and transom, the dinghy had to be returned. Fortunately we were loaned a courtesy dinghy. At last we had a new all floating, non leaking, white, hypalon dinghy.

Pulau Langkawi

Before we left Penang, the dinghy split another seam and the bearings and seals went on the engine water circulation pump. The dinghy is pretty well a lost cause held together with 8 G clamps. I fitted a new water pump and its hoses as we had them with us. The journey to Pulau Langkawi was uneventful despite many fishing boats leading their extensive nets across our intended track. We anchored off a small island which was wooded and beautiful in complete safety from the winds. Both of us enjoyed a swim in cleaner but not clear water.

We sailed up to Telaga for the final Sail Malaysia Rally dinner and again had a good anchoring spot. On Thursday 1st December we went to a fantastic restaurant with a gorgeous view and prepared to dine alfresco. The weather had different ideas! It began to pour down tropical style and lasted for 90 minutes. The staff rushed to set the tables again and we rushed to get some nosh. It was delicious and accompanied by local dancers and performers. Within 30 minutes the rain was back and we called it a day. We phoned for a taxi to take us to the jetty (about 3 kilometres), but by the time the dinghy was emptied of rain water and we were safely back at Sal Darago, we were both drenched. It was such a pity for Sazli (the Sail Malaysia Organiser), the Restaurant and the performers.

Now we are looking round the various marinas and boatyards
to see where we can lift SD out and do the work in March when we return from Thailand. It is very hot and humid and we have much to repair before we can even move on to Thailand, never mind crossing the Indian Ocean.

Penang 2

The photo shows me standing on the first floor landing of a renovated
Baba Nyonya (Straits Chinese) house called Pinang Peranakan Mansion. It has fabulous Chinese carvings, Scottish ironwork and English tiled floors. The textiles were amazing and the pottery and glassware astounding. This was one of many attractions which we visited.


Here's Jeremy standing on the walls of Fort Cornwallis. The fort was built by Captain Light for the British East India Company. Emily and Ben might be interested to know that Light came from Suffolk and went to Woodbridge Grammar School. The cannon is the Seri Rambai which was presented by the Dutch and stolen by the English! According to a local belief, childless women can conceive by placing flowers in its barrel and offering special prayers. Now there's a fallacy, or should that be phallus see?

Penang

We had the usual fun with fishing vessels and ships on our passage to Penang. We knew that the island is joined to the mainland by a bridge of over 13km. The photograph shows us approaching the centre arch where there was sufficient clearance for our mast. We also knew that a new, even longer bridge was being built further south and all we had to do was follow the buoys. First we had to motor in and out of the maze of fishing boats and drift nets. Then we identified some red buoys and kept them to port. To starboard we could see hundreds of pairs of pillars sticking up from the water and disappearing into the mist. Much closer, there were cranes, barges and a Blackpool Tower lookalike which was the pile driver. There was nothing marking the passage
through so we had to guess. We passed between two barges and left the construction site behind us. Soon we were anchored off Pulau Jerejak, near a fishing village, some local restaurants and a dual carriageway. We spent 3 nights here. At first there were no other yachts. We ate ashore and visited the expensive but interesting War Museum located in a British built fort. We had
plenty of time. Having caught up with the rally in Pangkor, we had a week before the scheduled events in Penang. It made sense to move further north towards the main town of Georgetown and have a look at this UNESCO World Heritage city. We had no problems passing under the bridge and anchored in the Junk anchorage off the town. After an hour and three attempts the anchor finally held. We had motored up with a catamaran called Wind Pony. Their depth
sounder was broken so they followed us into the anchorage and anchored with no problems.....until a few hours later. We'd chatted to Nick and Jan on the motor vessel Yarwarra II when we were in Pangkor. They were in the Junk anchorage so we let them know we were going ashore. When we returned Wind Pony had dragged while Dick and Lynne were ashore and had hit Yarwarra II very hard on both sides. The maritime police were called and their boat hit Wind Pony but by then Dick and Lynne had returned. We were relieved that SD stayed put although all the boats in the anchorage were moving around in wind over tide conditions. Our turn came the third night we were there. We woke to find ourselves uncomfortably close to a large motor cruiser. We had dragged in the night but not collided with anything. We re-anchored, Jeremy checked the engine and saw that the fresh water pump had broken. Fortunately, he had a spare and spent several hot, sweaty hours in the engine compartment fitting the spare. We motored 4 miles to Straits Quay Marina and had no more dramas.

Pulau Pangkor

The last sail with our buddy boat, Ellida, was quite challenging. After we left the luxurious Admiral Marina, the winds were light and the seas calm for 23 of the 26 hours it took to complete our passage north to Pangkor Island Marina. We motored with the mainsail raised. Sometimes it filled. As it went dark we had to alter course to avoid two small fishing boats guarding drift nets. These nets can be a quarter of a mile long! Then we had to pass lots of anchored ships one or two of which were moving to and from the nearby shipping lane. I came up on watch at midnight and there were so many lights ahead, I might have been approaching a city. These were the large fishing boats which mainly stay on station but sometimes move. Other ships and ferries pass through them as well as tugs towing large, unlit barges. I called Jeremy up to help when I found myself sandwiched between a barge and a ship. Fortunately, the ship was anchored. Having left the fishing grounds behind, Jeremy checked the battereries and found one had overheated. He disconnected it at 4.00am. Two hours later, he had just lowered the mainsail and put the last tie on it when SD was hit with 33knots of wind accompanied by heavy rain, thunder and lightning. This is known as a "sumatera" and is a feature of sailing in the Straits of Melaka. The sea was rough for the next three hours until we reached the channel between the mainland and Pulau Pangkor. The marina is on its own island on land reclaimed from the sea. That evening we enjoyed a superb dinner hosted by the marina. The next day all the Sail Malaysia participants were ferried across to Pangkor Island and treated to a tour and lunch at a Chinese restaurant.

We saw this anchorage at Teluk Nipah on the west side of Pulau Pangkor when we were on the tour. It was very sad saying farewell to Liz and Graham after 4 months of travelling together and sharing so many experiences. Ellida was to be lifted out at the end of November and Liz and Graham were flying home to see their new grandchild. However, they were going to join us at Penang for the tour and dinner. We spent 2 nights at the anchorage shown before setting off for Pulau Penang at 3.00 am.

Melaka

We left Danga Bay Marina (total charge for ten days - £1.75) and motored to Pisang Island where we anchored. We had a terrible night. Ellida had to re-anchor twice! Bleary eyed we motored into a headwind to Pulau Besar, for about 15 hours. The night was slightly better after the thunderstorm had finished. A short 8 hour motor saw us arrive at Admiral Bay Marina. The following morning we hired a taxi to Melaka. This is Christ Church and is an integral part of the historic walk which we completed the first day. Our lunch in Chinatown consisted of rice balls. These were exactly as the name implies, but the majority decision was that rice is tastier. We stayed at Samudra Inn for about £10 for Kathy and me. Our room was air conditioned, but the facilities were basic.
On the second morning we had our breakfast at a nearby stall - roti (cheese, egg, flour) with a hot lentil gravy. Crunchie Nut Cornflakes never seemed so good. Off we walked with Graham and Liz to the Maritime Museum, followed by lunch of chicken and rice for four, cost - under £5. In the afternoon we walked round the local temples. This Chinese temple, one of the oldest in Malaysia, Cheng Hoon Teng Temple, was most impressive, with intricate gold carvings. A quick shop and the taxi back to Port Dickson near the marina was more interesting than anticipated. We got Albert the Singing Indian Performing Taxi Driver, who entertained us all the way home with his impression of crying babies, digruntled two year olds and renditions of once loved songs. It was like turning the clock back 23 years - "Are we there yet?" After a day to recover, Sal Darago and Ellida were ready to set off on their last journey together for some time as Ellida is to be hauled out at our next port of call 140 nautical miles away.

Singapore

We had a great morning on our first visit to Singapore. We crossed the causeway by bus, got off to check out of Malaysia, got on another bus, got off to check into Singapore, then got a taxi to the zoo. There are no cages and many primates, including orangutans, are free to roam through the rainforest in the zoo park. We were awed by the white tigers and amused by the antics of the baboons. My college house mate of 1973-74, Cathy, and her husband, Tony, picked us up from the zoo. We had lunch in a rural setting at an open air rustic restaurant and then drove into the city passing block after block of high rise buildings.

We stopped at the famous Raffles Hotel for expensive Singapore Slings. Tony had a pint of beer and that cost £10. We threw our peanut shells on the floor as is the tradition. The picture shows Cathy, Tony and Jeremy in the Long Bar at Raffles. We stayed the night at Cathy and Tony's apartment after being taken to the British Club for dinner, where we ate Shepherd's Pie, Steak and Onion Pie and drank Old Speckled Hen beer. Just what we needed after 3 months of nasi goreng! Thanks Cathy and Tony, we had a great time.
Our next visit to Singapore a few days later was functional. Using buses, trains and a taxi, we collected previously ordered Vetus engine parts from Tripower, a most efficient company. We had time to go to Raffles Marina and enjoy a 3 course meal in the restaurant marquee. Today, Jeremy fitted the new heat exchanger and changed the engine oil. Everything seems to be working, so we intend to check out of Danga Bay Marina on Friday and leave early on Saturday morning for the Straits of Malaka.

Johor Bahru, Malaysia

Crossing the Singapore Straits was less stressful than we had expected. We left Nongsa Point Marina at first light with our buddy boat Ellida, crossed the Straits, avoided big ships like the one in the photo and made it safely to the Johor Strait. Here Malaysia is on one side and Singapore is on the other. We kept to the Malaysian side. Armed boats patrol the Singapore side and if you stray within 75m of their shore, you could be shot. We almost scraped the bottom on our approach to Danga Bay Marina. Ron, the dockmaster, gave us good directions and helped us tie up in our free berth. All we pay for is mains electricity.

A few days after our arrival, the local authority held a Gala Dinner to mark the start of the Sail Malaysia  Rally. Here we are at the top table, wearing our batik clothes. For 2 hours before the dinner, Sail Malaysia invited us to "cocktails". Actually, it was free Tiger beer served from jugs by young women in short skirts. You could drink as much as you wanted. There was no alcohol at the dinner as the local authority is Muslim, but there were 8 courses of food, Chinese tea, water and soft drinks, plus entertainment led by an MC which included a live band called Shooters, 3 singers and a number of traditional dancing troupes. A participant from the Sail Malaysia Rally was asked to give a thank you speech. No-one had been asked to do this, so Jeremy stood up, walked on to the stage, stood behind the microphone and gave a speech "off the cuff". Huge applause followed. We had a wonderful evening, but some people left early complaining that the music was too loud. As the old maxim says, "You can please some people some of the time.....

Last Stop in Indonesia

After the exciting day we went ashore for a final dinner for the SIR. Here the Brits were invited to sing their songs and everyone had a very good time. Many boats had left in the afternoon, but we were going to remain a little longer so Graham and Liz could get better. Next to the anchorage was an amazing rock formation which Kathy I explored. The rocks were like granite and suffered from exfoliation (I think that's right where they get terrifically hot with the sun and then either rain or sea cools them down so fast they split or cast off a layer.) 

On Saturday, 15/10/11, we left Belitung. We had a 48 hour sail to a small island called Kentar. After 32 hours Jeremy went down with vomitting and diarrhoea. Somehow we got through the second night. At dawn we crossed into the Northern Hemisphere. We had a day and a night's rest at Kentar, but misssed the Equator Party celebrations on shore, before pressing on to Benan. We arrived at Pangkil Island and Kathy got the bug during the night. She was very poorly. By now the ships were pretty big and getting rather close. Jeremy helmed most of the day and we arrived in the afternoon at Nonsa Point Marina. This is a luxury leisure complex with beach resort, marina and golf courses, with a view across the Strait to Singapore - the busiest shipping channel in the World. We cross it next.

The Pesident's Visit

There was no response from Ellida the next day so Jeremy took the dinghy over to find Liz very poorly in bed. Graham, still ill with an upset stomach, had gone for the Doctor. Vertigo was diagnosed and rest ordered. Meanwhile the Vice President of Indonesia had set up on shore and security was tight with sub machine guns mounted on inflatables and fast military and Police boats zipping about.

After several performances and speeches, the local fishing fleet which had been arriving for two days was to do a sail past. This was a truly awe inspiring sight. Kathy and I had front seats as Sal Darago was the second closest boat to the shore. We reckoned 1000 local fishing boats filed past. All of them were decorated and many had been repainted for the President's Visit. What a pity he could not make it.

Belitung

After 54 hours on passage, we reached Kelayang Beach, Beltitung in the middle of a four hour severe thunderstorm. Visibility was down to 20 yards and anchoring in gusty winds was no fun. The following day we organised refuelling and water. In the evening there was the Gala dinner with the Regent and all went well, except most nationalities had practised a performance, which they duly performed. Sadly the Brits were missed off the list so we could not sing "Spanish Ladies" and "Whisky Johnny". The following day we were taken on a tour with police escort. The lads in red above "became" horses and went into a trance until they were whipped to the ground. Very odd. A local said it did not hurt.
On the way back to the beach we visited a Chinese Buddhist Temple. On Wednesday morning, Graham, Liz, Kathy and I hired a car and took Novi, one of the guides provided, into the local big town. Here we had Ellida's AIS aerial repaired; I had taken Sal Darago too close to Ellida to return Graham's hat and our spinnaker pole had snapped the aerial. We bought Batik clothes for the party and did some shopping and admin. Graham and Liz both became ill during the day and were unable to catch the buses to the dinner with the President. The President also could not make it and neither could the Vice! However, there were seven government Ministers and quite a few speeches as well as live music and a banquet.

Java to Karimunjawa

Sal Darago and Buddy Boat "Ellida", sought anchorage behind a reef just west of Telek Lumut. It was the best anchorage we had had for a week! The local boats just outside the reef were extraordinarily colourful. We crossed to Raas the next day and entered through a tricky reef. The boat boys here were a nuisance. One boat in particular was insistent. Kathy had given them a t-shirt and two hats, but they wanted my swimming trunks and my goggles. Nearly everywhere else has been so good; this reminded us of St Lucia.

The two boats had a 28 hour sail to Bawean - to be honest we motored quite a bit of the way. We all walked about 2 miles to the market in Tambak. All the locals were incredibly friendly and helpful. We had lunch at a rumah makan and I think it cost about £6 for the four of us. Again we had a 140+ mile sail, so there was no dallying. At 1033 on Monday 03.10.11, we anchored off a reef near the village of Karimunjawa on the island of that name. We ate ashore for three days and wandered about in the heat of the day. Most of the locals were much amused by this and Graham and I kept going into song "Mad dogs and Englishmen go out in the midday sun..." (Noel Coward ). The washing was done, diesel and water purchased and we were ready for the off again. Rumour has it that the President of Indonesia will be at the final Dinner in Belitung.

Bali still

Graham, Liz, Kathy and I hired a mini bus for the day and apart from the six temples, we saw the fantastic layered rice fields. Photos really don't do them justice. Each small level had its own path of grass which had been cut very recently. There were thousands of levels and all the cutting had been done by hand. In addition all the levels were fed by a stream which had been ingeniously divided up for irrigation.


The lady here was removing the grass which she had cut from a single level. I thought I would help, but I was amazed at how heavy the basket was. It was a struggle for me to place it on my head! Kathy developed a cold and I had a repeat of my Aruban urinary infection. We had a day off then motored to a small island on the NW tip of Bali. It was very windy all night and we were plagued by flies. The snorkelling was meant to be great, but we decided we could do without the annoyances for another night so we left for Java.

Lovina Beach, Bali

Bull racing at a nearby sports field. Fortunately, the bulls do not race round madly in the hot sun. They parade at walk and trot showing off their paces and elaborately decorated yokes. Dressage for bulls, I suppose!



This is an example of the beautiful costumes worn by the dancers. I think you'll recognise the two westerners in the middle, but who is that random person on the end?

Bali Marina

Gili Air was lovely. All the moorings were taken and we were lucky to squeeze into a small space and anchor on the edge of a reef. Once again, think white sand, azure sea, palm trees, swimming, diving, snorkelling. It's not a dream although sometimes we still have to pinch ourselves to make sure. It was 44 miles to Bali Marina, which is on the south of Bali at the end of Selat Lombok, a strait where the current runs south for 24 hours. We met hundreds of local fishing boats racing back to their ports after a night's fishing, their colourful sails bobbing up and down in the swell. Having escaped them, we then had a shipping lane to cross and had to take avoiding action to miss the fourth big ship we encountered. When we arrived at the marina with yacht Elaine from Finland, there were no berths available. We moored fore and aft opposite the marina off an island that covered at high water.You can just see Sal Darago behind the huge crane carrying barge. I couldn't resist taking a photo of the motor yacht, Jeremy, which was tied up near the marina entrance. We had hoped to buy a dinghy but none were available unless we ordered one and waited for 5 weeks or flew to Jakata and brought one back on the plane. We did get our British gas bottles filled for the first time since Tonga (Nov 2010) and Jeremy replaced the seals on the heat exchanger to stop it leaking. He had taken the heat exchanger off to clean it in Lombok as the engine was overheating and part of it had broken. He has made a temporary repair and, like the dinghy, we hope it will last to Malaysia. We took a taxi to the local Carrefour supermarket and bought previously almost unobtainable goods like UHT milk, cooked meat, bacon and Crunchy Nut Cornflakes.
The trip north against the curent was a challenge. We took local advice and hugged the coast eventually finding a counter current. A 45ft yacht, Bihou, overtook us and went further offshore. They slowed down with the current against them and we caught them up and overtook them. Bihou arrived in the anchorage at Amblat ahead of us but we were pleased with our passage. The next day 8 yachts motor sailed 45 miles to Lovina Bay, North Bali. We anchored behind Ellida and went ashore for the Sail Indonesia Welcome with speeches, snack boxes, Balinese dancing and traditional gamelan orchestra.

Medana Bay, Lombok

We day sailed from Bima, Sumbawa, anchoring for the night at Kilo, where we were mobbed by chidren demanding "books, T-shirts, Cocoa Cola." They had to settle for sweets from us. Three yachts spent the night here: Sal Darago, Ellida and Double Time. Our next stop was just a sandy ledge in the middle of nowhere. It was very quiet - no hassle, no 4.00am call to prayer, just one or two small fishing boats. Pulau Medang was our next stop, a beautiful coral island with white sand, reefs and palm trees. The yacht, Cheetah II, was already anchored but left just before dark. We bought fish from a local boat, gave a T-shirt to another man and a magazine to another. Liz and Graham from Ellida joined us for a fresh fish supper. One more day's sail took us to a small island off Lombok called Pulau Lawang. The current was usually against us on these passages and the wind either died or reversed by 9.30am. Our Shipmate, the second GPS died. We anchored between two reefs and spent a comfortable night. Nearby were the yachts Sea Topaz and Double Time. The next day we motored all the way to Medana Bay Marina, Lombok. As you can see it was a lovely place. There were no pontoons but there was a dinghy dock, water, a shop, bar, restaurant, showers and toilets. We spent four days here and took part in the activities provided for the Sail Indonesia fleet.
These included a full day's tour of West Lombok where we saw traditional villages which still practise many crafts and I had a go at adding a few palm leaves to a piece of roofing. Lunch was provided and a visit to a western style supermarket at Mataram concluded the day. Here it rained and we dodged showers for the first time in 99 days. Sal Darago remained dry in Medana Bay. About 50 boats were represented at the Gala Dinner. One person from each country received a locally woven scarf. I was lucky to be given one of the "extras".
The next day we left for the nearby coral island of Gili Air.