The Last Port in Europe

Today is Wednesday 26th November and we have been in El Hierro for 6 days, 5 of them in Puerto La Estaca and 1 day and night in La Restinga.

We left the marina at Santa Cruz, La Palma, remembering to take our floppa stoppers on board. When we left La Gomera we motored for an hour before realising they were streaming out behind us like sea anchors. (Floppa stoppers look like traffic cones which you attach to lines and hang down both sides of the boat. They reduce the rocking motion when you are at anchor. You don’t normally need them in a marina!) At Tazacorte, we had been told there was a pontoon berth for us and this time there was with electricity and water AND the showers were HOT! We enjoyed 3 calm nights protected from the NE wind and good weather. The only drawback was the near vertical climb of about 2 kilometres to the town. Here we found 3 well stocked supermarkets, lots of other shops and a banana plantation – and it was downhill all the way back with our shopping.

Excitement at Tazacorte as an injured fisherman is flown to hospital.

We left Puerto Tazacorte, La Palma at 6.00am on 20/11/08 and completed the 54 miles to Puerto de La Estaca, El Hierro by 4.00pm. The weather was a mix of headwinds and following winds, sunshine and cloud, squalls all around but thankfully missing us and a cold wind. Jeremy stoically wore his shorts but I wore long trousers and three layers under my ocean waterproof sailing jacket! It took us about an hour to tie up to the inner breakwater in the sheltered harbour at La Estaca. There was a severe shortage of ladders and an overhang of different heights along the concrete wall but eventually we secured Sal Darago behind a big German yacht, which appeared to have everything on board, including a washing machine!

We used two methods of getting on and off Sal Darago – rowing ashore in the dinghy or climbing up or down the rigging on “steps” made from pieces of string stretched across the shrouds.

There are very few British people living in El Hierro. Kevin and his German wife, Gabby, gave us useful information about the island the day we arrived. The next day Bob and Liz took us to the 4 star Paramor hotel in their car where we met a couple (Fredo – American born German - and Catie - French) from London who were staying with a German, (Gabriella) who was going out with a Spaniard, (Jose)! They all spoke excellent English and 8 people of 4 nationalities sat down together for drinks on the terrace overlooking the sea. How random is that? That evening Fredo, Catie, Gabriella and Jose arrived at Sal Darago and we enjoyed chatting further and showing them around our 36ft home.

There was nothing in La Estaca except a café/bar, some toilets, a water tap behind the bar and booking offices for the ferries. However, new facilities are being built (originally scheduled for 2005). We took the bus to the nearest town, Valverde, the capital, about 8 kilometres away. All bus journeys cost 1 euro but the times are not always convenient. Twice we had to catch the 8.00am bus!

It was only a 12 mile sail down to La Restinga which does have pontoon berths but no toilets, water or showers. The boatyard has a tap but they do not recommend drinking the water. Fortunately, both supermarkets sell bottled water, are quite well stocked and there is a panderaria (bakery) and a fresh produce mercado on Fridays – no bus ride needed!

We are very conscious of being at the end of the world (before Columbus) and the zero meridian for about 300 years (before Greenwich). Ahead lies an Atlantic crossing of over 2000miles and 20-30 days at sea. Hundreds of yachts cross at this time – 218 have left already on the Atlantic Rally for Cruisers – and every two years people row across, so maybe we are not completely mad! I’ll let you know in about a month’s time, from Barbados.

Hasta la vista amigos!