Adios Mexico. Bonjour French Polynesia

Waiting in Immigration, La Paz

On our return to La Paz, life became extremely hectic. We moved Sal Darago from Marina Cortez to Marina de la Paz next door. Here we took on drinking water and filled up with diesel from the nearby Pemex garage. It was a holiday weekend, so we could not begin to check out of Mexico until Tuesday, 19th March.

Did I mention earlier that I broke a tooth eating tortilla chips at Simon and Erin’s? The Receptionist at Marina Cortez was very helpful in finding a dentist for me just before the holiday weekend. I had to go to Hospital de Fidepaz straight away. The dentist spoke very little English and generally spoke to Jeremy. Half way through the treatment an English speaking nurse arrived and translated. My tooth was fixed for 800 pesos – approx. 32GBP.

Twin headsails

The rest of the weekend passed in a flurry of activity. The laundry was done, the non-perishable shopping was finished. Charts were checked, courses laid and the grab bag filled. The broken solar vent on the bow cabin hatch was replaced with a piece of wood. It can’t leak now! Club Cruceros at Marina de la Paz were very helpful in trying to find out for us which authorities we needed to visit, which order to visit them and which paperwork needed at each office. We got some things wrong.

Here’s a quick run through the checking out procedure:

1. Marina Office – do we have evidence of paying our API (Port) fees? No. We were told to get it from Marina Cortez.

2. Marina Cortez gave us a receipt for our API fees.

3. Taxi to Immigration. Half hour wait. All good. Paperwork stamped. Passports stamped.

4. Taxi to Cruz Roja (Red Cross) for health certificates. Half hour wait then height and weight measured and blood pressure checked. Health form completed and paid 80 pesos each. 

5. Taxi to the Port Captain’s Office on the other side of town (closes at 2.30). Form in Spanish filled in. Wording on form challenged. It said “depart to…” instead of “depart from…” Jeremy asked politely if the word could be changed as Immigration had already stamped the papers.  This was done but the API receipt was not acceptable. Go to the API Office on the Malecon, a 20 minute walk. No taxis around. The officer spoke English.  20-30 minute wait while a form was filled in, printed, stamped and copied. Taxi back to Port Captain’s Office. Time 1.50. Our Health Forms were not the right ones. Go to the Maritime Health Department, but first go to an Internet café and print out the required form in Spanish. A shipping agent helped here.

6. The Maritime Health Department was close by. We arrived a few minutes before 2pm. We were sent to the other side of a large building where the Receptionist said they were closed. I’d had enough. It was like a scene from the John Cleese film Clockwise. Jeremy said it wasn’t yet 2pm. A man ushered us through the building and our form was signed and stamped.

7. Almost running now back to the Port Captain’s Office. Stepped inside at 2.20pm. “Wait just a minute….” The last customer left the office. The door was locked at 2.35pm. We waited. Forty five minutes later we were given our zarpe (clearance). We could leave Mexico the next day.

Lunch was very late. Fresh food shopping was even later. Supper back on SD was around 10pm. Crossing the Pacific Ocean in a small boat can’t be more stressful, can it?

Beautiful Cabo San Lucas

We motored out of Marina de la Paz at 8.30am on Wednesday 20^th March, waved off by our neighbour, Peter. Jeremy called the Port Captain’s Office on the VHF radio. It was a beautiful but windless day.

After passing Cabo San Lucas, we saw a ketch called Windarra on the AIS and gave them a call on the VHF. We’d met the Skipper in Marina Cortez. We were quite close to them for a day. When the wind picked up they sailed out of range. There were a few ships around as well. We had to sail west at first to avoid a wind shadow south of Cabo San Lucas. We turned south and Jeremy put in a course to cross the Equator at 128 degrees longitude. The wind was rarely constant. The NE Trades when we got them were often light. We tried many sail rigs. The ITCZ (Doldrums) was scary with lots of lightning and frequent squalls. We celebrated our 44^th Wedding Anniversary on 29^th March exchanging cards just after midnight in the Pacific Ocean under the stars, the romantic moment marred only by the strong winds whipping up a big sea.

Sunset - there could be trouble ahead?

We argued, we cursed, we laughed, we prayed and probably went through every emotion at some point during the trip. The dolphins came and cheered us on. The last ship we saw was heading for South Korea. That was on Thursday 4^th April. We saw no other vessels until we approached the Marquesas Islands on Sunday 14^th April.

EQUATOR

We crossed the Equator just after 0600 on Sunday 7^th April. It was our 6^th Equator crossing. We toasted Neptune with whiskey, brandy and biscuits. We were out of the ITCZ and in the SE Trades. Hurrah! Except that the winds stayed light and we ended up motoring. It was very hot. To be naked was to be overdressed. In bed with no covers, sweat dampened the sheets and pillow cases. The squalls continued. The lightning was worse. Heavy rain fell. We filled up our drinking water bottles and one of our tanks. Sometimes we heard the Pacific Puddle Jumpers’ Net on our SSB receiver, so there were other boats out there somewhere.

On watch

A reasonably sized fish

After days of calm weather the wind began to blow until we had a gale at 0500 in the dark. Jeremy was on the helm desperately reefing down as the sideways blown rain hit him like a volley of bullets. I spent my watch sweltering in the saloon with the hatches closed, popping up every 10 minutes to check for ships. There were none. Our trusty Hydrovane wind vane steered the boat in the horrible conditions and kept us running before the wind. By 1030 we were motoring as there was no wind. Where were the constant SE Trades?

Land Ahoy

They arrived at sunset on 12^th April and blew us the rest of the way to the Marquesas. We were low on diesel, our fresh food had all been eaten and we’d had no luck fishing until our last evening, when Jeremy caught a small tuna. We ate it for lunch on 14^th April anchored bow and stern near Atuona, Hiva Oa, Islas Marquesas, French Polynesia. As we napped in the afternoon the bilge alarm sounded indicating a serious leak...

At the Semaphore Station, Hiva Oa

From Mexico to California, USA. Another Granddaughter.

We are on the water. Sal Darago was launched on 28^th February, after twelve days of hard work. Jeremy tried to salvage our third battery. After a few days he decided to buy another one from Malpa. I discovered that the curtain liners had all disintegrated in the sun. Paul, from the motor boat Frayed Knot, had a partner who was a modista (dress designer). She made new curtain liners for us.

On the way to the water

We found our heater at the bottom of one of the stern lockers and used it in the mornings and evenings. Jeremy worked on SD’s hull, preparing her for antifouling. We used the Subaru to drive to various tiendas and compare prices. We chose Comex at San Carlos.

We were disappointed that Kyotil, the restaurant that we used last year was only open in the late afternoon and evenings. Fortunately, after asking around, I found another local restaurant/take away nearby and used it most lunchtimes. We liked tacos carne asada and quesadillas cameron.

Yes! She's afloat

Other jobs on SD included putting on the mainsail, lazy jacks and reefing lines plus all the running rigging followed by the solar panels and the dodgers. A bolt had broken in one of the wooden grab rails on the roof. Jeremy spent hours and many broken drill bits trying to remove it. Eventually, serious hammer blows did the trick.

This task prepared him for the banging, bashing and straining required to remove the seized Blakes seacock from the heads compartment. SD’s lockers were searched for a second hand seacock given to us several years ago by the owner of a Westerly yacht called Badgers Sett. After a full day of tremendous physical effort the seized seacock was removed and replaced.

Our daughter-in-law, Erin, reached her due date but the baby was not ready for the outside world yet. Meanwhile, a nail was found in one of the Subaru’s tyres. We took the car to a tyre place, where the nail was removed and a patch was put inside the tyre in bicycle repair fashion. The cost was 70 pesos (just under £3).

The best view of the Carnival Queen

Although there was still more to be done, the underwater jobs were finished and we launched on a hot day. We motored two miles to Marina Fonatur, tied up and went to meet the capitan, Eduardo. We stayed four nights just as the Carnival in Guaymas started. Unbelievable decibels blasted across the marina from 7.00pm until 3.00am.

The Subaru Forester

The Subaru was great for provisioning and we made several trips to Wal-Mart and Leys. We were sad to return it to San Carlos. Thank you so much for the loan of it, Ann and Barry.

We paid our bill and cast off on Monday 4^th March. There was a brisk wind blowing, which continued to rise so we put a reef in the mainsail. The sea was quite rough with water coming into the cockpit from time to time. As predicted the conditions eased overnight until we were sailing gently. I had to call a ship on the VHF as it was on the same course and would be too close for comfort. The ship altered course and passed us one mile away.

First sail this trip

Just as Jeremy was making a hot drink at midnight, the cooking gas ran out and he had to change the  bottle on the stern in the dark.

By morning we were motoring and continued all the way to Isla Partida. As it was so calm, we decided to motor the last 25 miles to La Paz. However, a 15 knot headwind sprang up and the sea became choppy. We changed our minds at 2.30am and turned into the bay at Isla Partida, entering under GPS and radar. We had been there last year, but it was still quite challenging to find a spot far enough away from the other yachts and catamarans anchored there.

Marina Cortez, La Paz

Around mid-day the next day we were motoring away when a call came over the VHF. It was our Canadian friends of five continents, Ann and Barry, on Cat’s Paw IV. They were anchored across the bay. It was great to see them again. Both yachts motored and sailed down to La Paz. Once anchored, we were reunited properly over beers and snacks on SD.

The Cathedral at San Jose del Cabo

Over the next few days, we went out for dinner at Bandidos, lunch at Claros and played Bridge on Cat’s Paw IV, where the girls won once again!

Isn't she gorgeous?

Our third granddaughter was born early in March , weighing in at 8lbs 13oz. She’s called Nina Lorna. Both mother, Erin, and baby were doing well as was Simon. We were delighted.

Proud Granddad

The next day, our granddaughter, Sophie, in England celebrated her 3^rd birthday. Happy birthday, Sophie.

Proud Granny

I am writing this in our Airbnb in Sunnyvale, California, just 5 minutes up the road from Simon and Erin’s apartment. We have held Nina and given her lots of cuddles and we have hugged Simon and Erin. We are so glad to have made the journey from La Paz, which started with a two and a half hour bus journey to San Jose del Cabo. We stayed one night in Hotel Posada Senor Manana and took a taxi to the international airport the next day. We had not been given tourist visas when we crossed the US/Mexico border on the bus from Phoenix to Guaymas and learned later that we would not be able to leave the country without one. Fortunately, the Immigration Officer at the airport was very pleasant to us and we were able to buy visas for 560 pesos each (£22).

Simon, Erin, Baby Nina and Kathy

We flew to San Jose, California and Simon picked us up at the airport. Tomorrow, we have one more full day with our USA family; then we return to La Paz to prepare for our crossing of the Pacific Ocean.

On the boat but not afloat

We have just spent our second night on Sal Darago in Guaymas, Mexico. We were very pleased to find her in good condition once we’d removed several layers of dust and fine sand. The boat batteries had not survived seven months of inactivity. Two of them have been replaced. We bought them at Malpa in Guaymas, as recommended by Ariana at the boatyard. Later, I found an oil-like substance had leaked into one of the stern lockers. Jeremy had noticed something similar in the bilges. It turned out to be catalyst fluid from the emergency fibre glass repair kit, which had corroded its way out of the tin. It’s going to take some time to clean up.

It’s very cold here at night – as low as 8C – and we can’t find our portable heater! I’m wearing three layers of clothes and two pairs of socks. In the daytime, the temperature might reach 21C.

Here’s a summary of our activities since the last blog.

We bought a 2010 black Ford Focus Titanium. Jeremy was determined to sort out the engine light problem on the older car. Eventually, the light went out of its own accord two days before we were due to leave the country, so we were unable to sell it. Any offers?

Fairy castles in Port Erin

I went to the Isle of Man for a week early in January and had a lovely time with my two sisters and my Mum.

Sara, Mum and Pat

Jeremy had a second sigmoidoscopy on 16^th January. Apart from some scar tissue all was well.

Our electricity supply was restored to us on 24^th January. E.ON had made an erroneous transfer of our meter number and electricity supply number to a new house across the road the previous October. Numerous phone calls, emails, the involvement of our local councillor and MP eventually resolved the situation and we were accepted by British Gas for the Feed in Tariff for our new solar panels.

All dressed up for Burns Night

We spent two nights, 24^th and 25^th January, in Glasgow staying at the Golden Jubilee Hotel for the Westerly Owners Association AGM. On the way there we spent a night with Jeremy’s brother, Gavin and his wife, Eileen. On Friday night at the hotel we celebrated Burns Night. Saturday was taken up with the AGM and presentations, followed by dinner and a ceilidh.

On Sunday 26^th January we drove to Mull and spent four nights in the cottage in Tobermory. While we were there it snowed. We enjoyed some pleasant walks and an evening get together with John and Eilidh.

Kathy on Mull before the snow

On the drive home the windscreen washer fluid froze. Further south there was no snow, but it was still very cold. We spent a night with Jeremy’s brother, Ritchie and his wife, Catherine.

New car parked at Loch an Tor, Mull

The first event in February was Jeremy’s birthday. Our daughter, Emily, took a day off work. We hiked about six miles with Tess the dog and had lunch in the Coach and Horses in Melton. At teatime, we had cake and candles when the girls joined us. They presented Jeremy with works of Art.

Sophie, Jeremy, Ellie and Kathy

We collected our hire car on 9^th February and drove to London Gatwick Airport on 12^th February for our flight to San Francisco.

We left our house with mixed feelings. It had been lovely to spend so much time with Emily, Ben, Ellie and Sophie and we shall miss them all.

Erin and Simon

Our son, Simon, picked us up at Oakland Airport and drove us to Sunnyvale. Erin arrived from work soon afterwards looking very well in the last few weeks of her pregnancy. It was good to see them again.

Part of the remains of the airship hangar

Simon took us to the Moffett Field Museum and for a hike, once the rain had stopped. The next day we took Erin to work at the world headquarters of Symantec and later we met Simon for lunch at the world headquarters of Netflix. Very impressed!

Jeremy, Kathy and Simon in wet and windy Sunnyvale

Erin drove us to the Caltrain station on 15^th February. The second leg of our journey to Guaymas had begun. Twenty hours later we arrived, after a flight to Phoenix and an overnight bus to Guaymas. We checked into Hotel del Sol and slept.

Sal Darago on our arrival

The next day we collected our Canadian friends’ car from San Carlos. Thank you very much Ann and Barry. Already the car has been invaluable in sourcing boat batteries and for shopping.

Jeremy sanding SD's bottom

So, here we are on Sal Darago. The hard work has started and a new adventure has begun.