Canada Land Trip 2

All too soon, we were off to Jasper via the amazingly scenic road called Icefields Parkway. Short stops along the way gave us the opportunity to photograph breathtaking vistas such as: 

Herbert Lake

Crowfoot Glacier

Bowfoot Summit and Peyto Lake

Peyto Glacier

Tangle Falls

Looking south from the top of a pass

Athabasca Falls

On arrival at Jasper, we checked into the Maligne Lodge for two nights. The helpful staff at the Visitor Centre told us about the Sulphur Skyline Trail on the east side of Jasper National Park. We drove about 25 kilometres and parked near the Hot Sulphur Springs. I was slightly uneasy about the hike, which was described as difficult and had an elevation of 600 metres. Sure enough, once we found the start of the trail, it was uphill all the way. 

Lunch at the top

We had been warned to look out for black bears and to make a noise as we were walking. We sang many of the songs we knew as we walked and no bears were seen along the way. 

The trail passed through a brief snow field once we were above the treeline and became very steep for the last, short haul to the summit. All our efforts were forgotten and we were silent as we stared at the amazing 360 degree view from the top.

Stunning view from the top of the Sulphur Skyline Trail

I had my knee supports with me and needed them on the steep walk down. 

The next day we boarded a VIA train to take us on the northern route across the Rocky Mountains.

Canada Land Trip

Calgary Tower

Erin dropped us off at the Caltrain station on the morning of 15^th May and we made our way to San Francisco International Airport. Our flight was delayed for an hour and we lost another hour changing time zones. We collected our National rental car from an indoor parking area at Calgary Airport. We should have taken photos of the almost new Honda Civic, but everything looked fine in the rather subdued lighting.

View from Calgary Tower

Our hotel, Lakeview Signature Inn, near the airport was lovely. We stayed for two nights. Downtown parking was very expensive in Calgary, so we chose to park at Fort Calgary, which we wanted to see later, and walked into town to the Calgary Tower. It was a clear day so we had excellent views of Calgary and the surrounding prairie.

Two new recruits

After a soup and sandwich lunch in a popular café, we returned to Fort Calgary. Much has been done to restore the spirit of the original fort, which was completely flattened when the land was sold to the Canadian Pacific Railway. Thanks to the efforts of determined volunteers, the land was purchased for the nation and the restoration began.

Soon it was time to be on our way to Banff. Unfortunately, Jeremy developed a urinary infection so we stopped at the hospital in Cansmore and were stunned to discover we’d have to pay 898CAD to the hospital, plus the doctor’s fee of 250+CAD. They suggested a Walk-in Clinic would be a cheaper option, so we continued our journey to Banff and went straight to the clinic, where we waited our turn to see one of the doctors.

Inns of Banff balcony view

Armed with two prescriptions and a much lighter wallet, we checked in at the Inns of Banff, where we were upgraded to a fifth floor suite, complete with balcony and views overlooking the snow-capped Rocky Mountains.

Lower falls Johnson's Creek Canyon

We headed for Johnson’s Creek the next day and hiked up to the first waterfall, the second waterfall and on to the Inkpots, a beautiful walk but very popular, so the advice was to “go early to avoid the crowds”.

Kathy at the Ink Pots

After two days in Banff, our next stop was Lake Louise Inn. We left our big bags at Reception and drove to the lake. We were lucky to find a space in the huge car park. Hundreds of people walked the short distance to admire and photograph the truly spectacular view across the frozen lake to the glaciers and snowy, mountain peaks beyond. Close by was Lake Louise Fairmont Chateau Hotel, which has stood on that site since the railway first brought visitors to the area.

Fairmont Chateau Hotel at Lake Louise

It was Victoria Day holiday weekend, so the crowds were larger than usual. All the hustle and bustle did take away the magic of the place and we could not escape to higher trails, as they were closed due to snow. There were fewer people at the opposite end of the lake and a small number of rock climbers were scaling near vertical walls.

Lake Louise, mostly still frozen

Reflections at Emerald Lake

Taking advice from the helpful staff at the Visitor Centre, we headed for Emerald Lake, in nearby Yoho National Park, the next day. It was a fabulous walk with clear views and the air so still that the mountains were mirrored in the peaceful lake. One side of the lake had almost no snow, but the other side was a snowy trail with several streams to cross on wooden bridges or tree trunks.

Torrent at Natural Bridge

We stopped to have a look at the Natural Bridge on our way to the village of Field, where we had lunch at the Truffle Pigs.

Goods' train at Field

We had time for another short hike so we stopped at the Great Divide Lodge and asked about the nearby trail to Sherbourne Lake. They told us there was still snow on the trail, but it was open. We set off and soon found ourselves walking through snow, which became deeper and deeper. We turned back in the late afternoon before the bears came out to forage.

Jeremy minus right leg on the way to Sherbourne Lake

On our way back to Lake Louise, we saw our first black bear beside the railway line. Later, we learned that the grain trains often leave some of their produce on or near the tracks as they pass by.

It may look small but it is a real bear. And I did not want to be closer!

Guaymas Mexico to San Francisco, USA

Luxury bus at Guaymas

On Monday 7^th May we caught a bus from Guaymas to Tucson, USA. It was 40 minutes late, but very comfy. Unfortunately we had to disembark three times for security checks and it took nearly 2 hours to cross the US border. 

USA Mexico border

Our stay at Town Place Suite by Marriot was great and we tried our first Denny’s for a meal. In the morning we walked to Alamo Rental car at the airport and picked up a Nissen Versa Note. It was small, economical and had cruise control. It was hot (107F) crossing the desert, but we arrived safely at Fort Bliss, El Paso, and had a wonderful time with my niece, Miki, and her two children.

Miki, Kathy, Isaac and Abigail

Birthday lunch at St Clair Bistro, Las Cruces

Courthouse surprise at Mesilla

We returned the rental car to Phoenix Mesa Gateway Airport the following Friday. We crossed three State lines: Texas, New Mexico and Arizona on our six hour drive and gained an hour due to different time zones. We flew to Oakland Airport across the bay from San Francisco and were met by our son, Simon. Erin and Buffy the cat were waiting for us in Sunnyvale.

Mothers' Day lunch from The Boiling Crab.

Underneath the sequoia tree

 It was lovely to be reunited once more, even though our separation had only been months this time, not years. I had the pleasure of being with Simon and Erin for USA Mother’s Day and my birthday.

Mini golf. Erin and Kathy were overall winners

Please comment if you think the sequoia tree is actually a giant redwood.

San Carlos/Guaymas Area

We left Fonatur Marina, Guaymas on Friday 20^th April and motored four miles to Bahia Catalina. It was gusty with a strong SW wind blowing down an arroyo. We anchored in the northern part of the bay which gave a little shelter from the wind. Fortunately, the holding was good. There were a few local pangas and a some people on the far northern side as there is dirt road access to Bahia Catalina from Guaymas. Nobody bothered us.

Palapa Griega, San Carlos

The next day we left at 0730 and motored six miles to Ensenada Carrizal. The wind was much lighter, so we were able to do some jobs such as taking the water catching gutters off our bimini and cleaning and stowing the Hydrovane rudder. We had time for snorkelling and scrubbed Sal Darago’s bottom. Afterwards, Jeremy took off the jackstays, preventer and deck blocks and washed them.

Bonifacio's Cotton Club, San Carlos

The anchor alarm went off twice during the night. All was OK, thankfully. There is a fish camp nearby and some of the fishermen row out of the bay in the early hours to catch fish before the winds start to blow. None of them approached us. We left at 0700 and travelled nine miles to Caleta Posada, crossing Bahia San Francisco. We were now very close to San Carlos, a large yachting centre, but there was only one vessel at anchor. Another one arrived soon after us. The crew from the ketch Kha Khan stopped by and gave us useful information about shops and restaurants.

Caleta Lalo from the Mirador

I cleaned the front cabin and Jeremy washed the topsides. We went ashore in the dinghy, landed on the beach and walked along the red hot sand for a Greek lunch in Palapa Griega. Afterwards, we walked about three quarters of a mile to Leys Supermarket. Back at SD, we cooled off with a quick swim and more bottom scrubbing.

The Soggy Peso, Bahia Algadones

We weighed anchor at 0755 on Monday 23^rd April and headed for Martini Cove, only two miles away. This usually busy cove was deserted at this early hour so we had it to ourselves. As it has limited swinging room, Jeremy preferred to stay on board and keep watch while I donned my wetsuit and went snorkelling. Sadly, the visibility was not at its best, but I still saw plenty of colourful fish and found shallow passages amongst the kelp beds.

One of many caves at Ensenada Carrizal

Later in the morning, we weighed anchor and motored three miles to Caleto Lalo, which is below the Mirador, and round the corner from Bahia Algadones. It was very calm. We rowed ashore, landed on the beach, avoided scorpions in the car park and walked up to Coco Loco on the roadside. They had drinks but no food, so we walked on to Bonifacio’s Cotton Club RV Resort, where we had lovely tacos in their air conditioned restaurant.

It was a hot day and we were sweating when we reached the Mirador. It was worth the effort as the views were stunning. On the way back we stopped at Coco Loco and shared a coconut. One of the rope handles on the dinghy broke as we carried it, giving Jeremy another job to do on our return to SD.

Twin peaks of Las Tetas

The next day we motored three miles to Bahia Algadones and anchored close to the place where we anchored before. This time the weather was calm, so we were able to go ashore and land the dinghy on the beach. We searched for the film set of Catch 22 but did not find it. We consoled ourselves with lunch on the beach at the Soggy Peso.

Scorpion near Marina San Carlos

On Wednesday 25^th April we left Bahia Algadones and returned to Caleta Posada. This time we went ashore and up some steps between some pleasant houses. It was a short walk to Marina San Carlos. Tortugas restaurant just up the road was recommended for lunch and I was amazed to find Shepherd’s Pie on the daily specials menu. Pino Colada was also on special, so I had the former and Jeremy had the latter!

Happy lunch at Tortugas, San Carlos

We returned to Marina Fonatur, Guaymas via Ensenada Carrizal and Bahia Catalina. Jeremy changed the engine oil and filters and together we washed and took down the genoa. The end of our sailing adventure was close but not until we’d spent two nights in Fonatur Marina where we washed the mainsail, folded and stowed both sails and removed and washed all deck fittings.

New home for Sal Darago

Our final day on the water, Monday 30^th April, dawned damp and misty. We left Marina Fonatur at 0905, motored a mile across the harbour and were in the travel lift at Marina Seca, Guaymas by 0940. The rest of the week was spent washing halyards, cleaning lockers, stowing the canvas from our bimini and our dodgers and generally preparing Sal Darago for dry storage for the next ten months.

Sea of Cortez sunset

On Sunday 6^th May we called Jose and he arrived in his taxi within 15 minutes to take us to Hotel del Sol, Guaymas. From there our land trip to Tucson, El Paso, San Francisco and the Canadian Rockies began. Watch out for future blog posts relating our experiences as landlubbers.