Marae and red tiki
International surfing beach
Saturday, 4 September 2010
Monday, 23 August 2010
Tahiti and Moorea 2. Huahine
We motored back to Tahiti from Moorea and anchored, at the third attempt, near Marina Taina. We were quite close to a catamaran so Jeremy set up two angels (weights to shorten the scope) on the anchor chain. Our friends, Chris and John, from Sara II came over and we decided to hire a car together. The next day, Jeremy and I collected my package of medication from the post office. (Thanks to my neighbour, Ruth and daughter, Emily.)
Our trip round Tahiti in the hire car was a great day out. We stopped at most of the places of interest, including the restored Marae Arahurahu, the international surfing beach at Teahupoo and the blow hole at Papenoo. We all enjoyed lunch at an Asian/Polynesian restaurant and finished our circumnavigation by watching the sunset from Belvedere Fare Rau Ape, a high point above the capital, Papeete, reached by a winding single track road with steep drops on one side. Unfortunately, we ended the day in a traffic jam caused by roads being closed for a cycle race. We just had time for a dash round the Carrefour superstore to collect heavy goods while we had the use of the car.
Soon we were in Moorea again, intending a quick stopover. We motorsailed around the exposed south coast and entered Passe Matauvau in strong SE winds. Two attempts to anchor in winds approaching 30 knots ended in dragging off the reef, so we hurriedly made sandwiches and headed back out to sea and eventually to the safety of Oponohu Bay on the north coast. We met up with our friends from Lison Life and spent an evening aboard the catamaran,Troutbridge, where Pete told us how his anchor had dragged and put him on a reef, resulting in 3 holes in the bottom. He’d been hauled out in Tahiti for a month having repairs done.
Jeremy and I have both been ill with sore throats and bad colds. Obviously, city life is bad for us! Hence, we stayed in Moorea for a week until we were fit enough to face the overnight sail to Huahine, another Society Island, encircled by a lagoon, fringed by a reef.
So, here we are in Huahine, coming to the end of our 8 day stay here, feeling much better and thinking we’re in a warm Scotland as it has rained for two nights and a day, almost non-stop. Before the rain, we spent two nights anchored on the east side in the lagoon with only one other boat. We enjoyed drift snorkelling ie holding on to the dinghy painter and letting the current take us slowly over the reefs. Amongst the usual corals and reef fish, I saw a turtle and Jeremy saw a shark. We motored round the north end of Huahine, bought provisions in the surprisingly large supermarket at the main village of Fare, had lunch ashore and motored down the lagoon the next day. We had a walk ashore and eventually found Marae Anini after asking twice. There were no signs. The marae is unusual as it’s built from large blocks of coral, still rough to the touch after nearly 300 years. We saw two large sting rays as we snorkelled from the boat. Then the rain started. Still, we’ve filled our tanks and Jeremy’s tested the bilge pumps with our excess of water. One didn’t work, so he’s trying to repair it now. Soon we hope to travel 20 miles or so to Raiatea and Tahaa. As we’re still in French Polynesia, au revoir pour maintenant.
Our trip round Tahiti in the hire car was a great day out. We stopped at most of the places of interest, including the restored Marae Arahurahu, the international surfing beach at Teahupoo and the blow hole at Papenoo. We all enjoyed lunch at an Asian/Polynesian restaurant and finished our circumnavigation by watching the sunset from Belvedere Fare Rau Ape, a high point above the capital, Papeete, reached by a winding single track road with steep drops on one side. Unfortunately, we ended the day in a traffic jam caused by roads being closed for a cycle race. We just had time for a dash round the Carrefour superstore to collect heavy goods while we had the use of the car.
Soon we were in Moorea again, intending a quick stopover. We motorsailed around the exposed south coast and entered Passe Matauvau in strong SE winds. Two attempts to anchor in winds approaching 30 knots ended in dragging off the reef, so we hurriedly made sandwiches and headed back out to sea and eventually to the safety of Oponohu Bay on the north coast. We met up with our friends from Lison Life and spent an evening aboard the catamaran,Troutbridge, where Pete told us how his anchor had dragged and put him on a reef, resulting in 3 holes in the bottom. He’d been hauled out in Tahiti for a month having repairs done.
Jeremy and I have both been ill with sore throats and bad colds. Obviously, city life is bad for us! Hence, we stayed in Moorea for a week until we were fit enough to face the overnight sail to Huahine, another Society Island, encircled by a lagoon, fringed by a reef.
So, here we are in Huahine, coming to the end of our 8 day stay here, feeling much better and thinking we’re in a warm Scotland as it has rained for two nights and a day, almost non-stop. Before the rain, we spent two nights anchored on the east side in the lagoon with only one other boat. We enjoyed drift snorkelling ie holding on to the dinghy painter and letting the current take us slowly over the reefs. Amongst the usual corals and reef fish, I saw a turtle and Jeremy saw a shark. We motored round the north end of Huahine, bought provisions in the surprisingly large supermarket at the main village of Fare, had lunch ashore and motored down the lagoon the next day. We had a walk ashore and eventually found Marae Anini after asking twice. There were no signs. The marae is unusual as it’s built from large blocks of coral, still rough to the touch after nearly 300 years. We saw two large sting rays as we snorkelled from the boat. Then the rain started. Still, we’ve filled our tanks and Jeremy’s tested the bilge pumps with our excess of water. One didn’t work, so he’s trying to repair it now. Soon we hope to travel 20 miles or so to Raiatea and Tahaa. As we’re still in French Polynesia, au revoir pour maintenant.
Friday, 6 August 2010
Fakarava south anchorage to Moorea
You wouldn’t believe the weather we’ve been having for most of July: numerous squalls with 30 knots or more of wind on them, heavy rain, gusty conditions and big swells with breaking waves on top. We witnessed a total eclipse of the sun on 11th July, watching the beginning and the end through our sextant shades, as we did not have the special glasses. It went dark enough for night lights to come on at the quay but it was not total darkness. A squall came over during the main part. After the eclipse, we motored 30 miles across the Fakarava lagoon, negotiating our way through pearl farms, passing over their nets, narrowly missing reefs and this was meant to be the main channel! After several squalls which reduced our visibility so much we had to turn on the radar, we anchored safely, near the south pass. We were so glad we had taken the sheltered route.
On the one settled day in a whole week, we joined up with Maureen and Paul from Calypso and used their dinghy to snorkel through the pass. We wore wetsuits as we were in the water for one and a half hours, holding on to lines attached to the dinghy and drifting through the pass with the tide. What and experience! We saw all kinds of reef fish and corals. Most scarily, we saw lots of sharks. The black tipped ones are not known to attack humans and they feed at night, but the sight of them makes you stop swimming and keep very still – just in case!
The unsettled weather continued making it most unwise to leave the lagoon and go to explore other atolls. Fresh food supplies had run out so we motor sailed back across the lagoon to the north anchorage and stocked up in the shops. As soon as there was a weather window, we left for Tahiti. We knew a yacht called Sojourn was leaving for Tahiti later that day. The winds were very light so we put up our ghoster and poled it out on one side with the full genoa poled out on the other side. By nightfall, with next to no wind, we motored. The next day we had a lovely beam reach sail with full main and genoa. Sojourn was behind us and stayed there until nightfall. Soon we had to reef down as the squalls started again. Finally, we reached Yacht Club de Tahiti carefully sounding our way through a well marked, but sometimes shallow, passage through the reef. We spoiled ourselves with a safe mooring, hot showers, washing machine, lots of drinking water and a huge Carrefour superstore. We ate camembert, baguettes, salad and fruit for the next four days.
Tahiti is the capital of French Polynesia. Papeete is a large town with dual carriageways, traffic and lots of shops. We caught the bus into town and checked in with the authorities. We took our cooking gas cylinders to the filling station and had them filled and we walked to various chandlers, clothes shops, markets etc until our legs ached. My package from England, which was meant to arrive in week, is going to take 15 days so we decided to sail 20 miles to Moorea.
You think you are sailing into a film set when you approach Moorea. Then you realise you are, because “South Pacific” was filmed here. The skyline has ridges and peaks and spires of many different shapes. It really is breathtaking. Captain Cook and Captain Bligh gazed on the same landscape and anchored in the same bays. Wow! I dragged Jeremy to Club Bali Hai where we sipped expensive beer on the edge of the bay. We scared ourselves anchoring in less than 3m near the fringing reef and snorkelled in clear, turquoise water. The next day we left Cook’s Bay, surfed down the huge swell in 24 knots of wind and entered the pass through the reef to Opunohu Bay. There’s no swell inside but huge gusts funnel down the steep mountain sides. The people are very friendly and we were given a lift in a car to the shop and brought back to our dinghy. The next time we rowed ashore, Jeremy broke an oar for the third time, just as we reached the beach. We walked 5km to a viewpoint where we saw both bays below us, Sal Darago a mere dot, and the sacred mountain of the Polynesians between the bays. Once again, this was a breathtaking view. On our 5km walk back, we passed through several Mareas, sacred sites, with altars where human sacrifices had taken place (not earlier that day, thank goodness). It was going dark and the overgrown path through the jungle past these holy ruins was eerie. We hurried back to the safety of home aboard Sal Darago.
On the one settled day in a whole week, we joined up with Maureen and Paul from Calypso and used their dinghy to snorkel through the pass. We wore wetsuits as we were in the water for one and a half hours, holding on to lines attached to the dinghy and drifting through the pass with the tide. What and experience! We saw all kinds of reef fish and corals. Most scarily, we saw lots of sharks. The black tipped ones are not known to attack humans and they feed at night, but the sight of them makes you stop swimming and keep very still – just in case!
The unsettled weather continued making it most unwise to leave the lagoon and go to explore other atolls. Fresh food supplies had run out so we motor sailed back across the lagoon to the north anchorage and stocked up in the shops. As soon as there was a weather window, we left for Tahiti. We knew a yacht called Sojourn was leaving for Tahiti later that day. The winds were very light so we put up our ghoster and poled it out on one side with the full genoa poled out on the other side. By nightfall, with next to no wind, we motored. The next day we had a lovely beam reach sail with full main and genoa. Sojourn was behind us and stayed there until nightfall. Soon we had to reef down as the squalls started again. Finally, we reached Yacht Club de Tahiti carefully sounding our way through a well marked, but sometimes shallow, passage through the reef. We spoiled ourselves with a safe mooring, hot showers, washing machine, lots of drinking water and a huge Carrefour superstore. We ate camembert, baguettes, salad and fruit for the next four days.
Tahiti is the capital of French Polynesia. Papeete is a large town with dual carriageways, traffic and lots of shops. We caught the bus into town and checked in with the authorities. We took our cooking gas cylinders to the filling station and had them filled and we walked to various chandlers, clothes shops, markets etc until our legs ached. My package from England, which was meant to arrive in week, is going to take 15 days so we decided to sail 20 miles to Moorea.
You think you are sailing into a film set when you approach Moorea. Then you realise you are, because “South Pacific” was filmed here. The skyline has ridges and peaks and spires of many different shapes. It really is breathtaking. Captain Cook and Captain Bligh gazed on the same landscape and anchored in the same bays. Wow! I dragged Jeremy to Club Bali Hai where we sipped expensive beer on the edge of the bay. We scared ourselves anchoring in less than 3m near the fringing reef and snorkelled in clear, turquoise water. The next day we left Cook’s Bay, surfed down the huge swell in 24 knots of wind and entered the pass through the reef to Opunohu Bay. There’s no swell inside but huge gusts funnel down the steep mountain sides. The people are very friendly and we were given a lift in a car to the shop and brought back to our dinghy. The next time we rowed ashore, Jeremy broke an oar for the third time, just as we reached the beach. We walked 5km to a viewpoint where we saw both bays below us, Sal Darago a mere dot, and the sacred mountain of the Polynesians between the bays. Once again, this was a breathtaking view. On our 5km walk back, we passed through several Mareas, sacred sites, with altars where human sacrifices had taken place (not earlier that day, thank goodness). It was going dark and the overgrown path through the jungle past these holy ruins was eerie. We hurried back to the safety of home aboard Sal Darago.
Friday, 30 July 2010
Fakarava Atoll
Swimming with sharks
Sal Darago at the south anchorage
Jeremy at the abandoned lighthouse, FakaravaPhotos from French Polynesia
Leaving Oa Pou, Marquesas 
Jeremy sewing the genoa in Toau Atoll, Tuamotus
Valentina's restaurant, Anse Amyot, Toau
The north pass, Fakarava AtollSunday, 25 July 2010
Ua Pou to Fakarava
Oa Pou
This is another island of the Marquesas. We spent two nights here, on our own, in a small sheltered anchorage. We burnt our rubbish on the shore, had a look at a washed up outrigger canoe and explored the shoreline. The undergrowth prevented us from going inland and all we saw were some goats on the cliffs, which rose steeply on both sides, and a local fishing boat out at sea.
The snorkelling was good and Jeremy enjoyed being washed into and out of caves. I stayed further off, having a greater sense of self-preservation. It didn’t stop me being stung by a bluebottle jelly fish, which took up residence near our dinghy. Jeremy was stung first and it got me across the mouth and round the neck as I swam towards the dinghy. Liberal amounts of vinegar numbed the pain. We both had red wealds of sting marks on our shoulders. Paradise has its nasty side.
Oa Pou to Taou Atoll
We left Oa Pou in flat, calm weather and passed a pod of “sleeping” dolphins on our way out of the anchorage. I have never seen so many perfectly still dolphins resting on the surface with just a few swimming about like sentries.
The calm lasted for several hours, but once the wind came up, it didn’t stop rising until we had 2 reefs in the mainsail and very little genoa flying. The rest of the journey of 4 nights and 5 days was unpleasant with many squalls, which sometimes whipped up a big, uncomfortable sea. At the end of my night watch, just before 2am, one of these squalls arrived suddenly with 30 plus knots of wind and heavy rain. I took the genoa sheet off the cleat to start reefing it in and the sheet was whipped out of my hand, even though it was wrapped round the winch several times. By the time I’d reefed enough in to get the boat under control, most of the sacrificial strip on the foot and leech had been ripped off.
We arrived safely at Toau Atoll in the Tuamotus Archipelago a few hours later. A closer examination of the genoa showed it was the stitching that had ripped and we spent a long day hand sewing it back together again.
Toau Atoll
We had a wonderful welcome. Our friends, Oscar and Graciela, on Zenitude (the ones who towed us when we damaged the prop shaft at the end of the Panama Canal) came on the VHF as we approached. Two dinghies came out from other boats to help us tie up to a mooring buoy. One couple, David and Marion, from Kilkea, we recognised. We had been in a minibus together in Trinidad last November, on a trip to the Asa Wright Nature Centre with Jesse James. How amazing to meet up again half way round the world!
Toau is beautiful. One family lives at the anchorage called Anse Amyot. Valentina and Gaston welcome yachts. They have put down the moorings to save the coral and you either pay for the mooring or have dinner in their restaurant on the edge of the water. We chose to have dinner. Three nights in a row, we were welcomed ashore. First we had “happy hour”, which lasted 3 hours. Several yachties went ashore, shared snacks and drank wine or beer. Valentina saw the cocktail sticks I’d taken ashore with a bowl of olives and said she’d like some. The next night when we went ashore for dinner, I gave her most of the cocktail sticks as a gift. Twenty people sat down to a lobster dinner at two tables, one French speaking and the other English. A 39th wedding anniversary was being celebrated and Valentina made a cake. We had a great night out and really got to know the other crews in the anchorage. The following day was American Independence Day. It was also Valentina’s niece’s birthday, so we were all invited ashore again for a Pot Luck supper. We each took a dish to share and our own drinks. Jeremy played volleyball for the first time in 30 years and suffered for it later. I played at the end as it started to go dark. The locals beat us but the visitors put up a good fight. After supper, Valentina and her father played guitars and all the family sang Polynesian songs as the BBQ fire died down. We sang Happy Birthday to Sidonie in 4 languages and shared her birthday cake. When we were leaving and thanked Valentina she said, “This is your home.” What a wonderful lady.
Toau is the friendliest place we’ve been to in the Pacific. The snorkelling was as good as anywhere we’ve been and we’ve even seen sharks close up in the fish trap in the lagoon. No-one is keen to let them out! We were sad to leave but it was time to find a shop and some fresh fruit and veg. We needed to top up on diesel as well.
Fakarava Atoll
It’s just over 40 miles from Toau to Rotoava village on Fakarava. We motorsailed into a headwind and the squalls we had experienced before kept hitting us. The northern pass into the lagoon is a mile wide but the wind and tide whip up a white sea of waves at the entrance. No-one has tide tables and we arrived at the entrance with wind and tide against us. We crept in at 1.5 knots and then motored 4 miles to the village at a more reasonable speed. Fakarava is the second largest atoll. It has an airstrip, a hotel, 3 shops, a bank and a post office. Civilisation indeed! We’re anchored in front of Gryphon II; an English boat crewed by a couple from Suffolk called Chris and Lorraine. There are about 16 boats anchored here, so it’s a popular place.
Yesterday the supply boat came in. It comes once a week and the whole village seems to go to the quay to meet it. We took our jerry cans ashore and bought 50 litres of diesel from the boat. Many locals were doing the same. We were able to stock up with cheese and fresh fruit and veg once the shops had taken their deliveries. Jeremy was reminded of his young days in Tobermory, Isle of Mull, Scotland, when the boat used to come in and was met in a similar way.
This is another island of the Marquesas. We spent two nights here, on our own, in a small sheltered anchorage. We burnt our rubbish on the shore, had a look at a washed up outrigger canoe and explored the shoreline. The undergrowth prevented us from going inland and all we saw were some goats on the cliffs, which rose steeply on both sides, and a local fishing boat out at sea.
The snorkelling was good and Jeremy enjoyed being washed into and out of caves. I stayed further off, having a greater sense of self-preservation. It didn’t stop me being stung by a bluebottle jelly fish, which took up residence near our dinghy. Jeremy was stung first and it got me across the mouth and round the neck as I swam towards the dinghy. Liberal amounts of vinegar numbed the pain. We both had red wealds of sting marks on our shoulders. Paradise has its nasty side.
Oa Pou to Taou Atoll
We left Oa Pou in flat, calm weather and passed a pod of “sleeping” dolphins on our way out of the anchorage. I have never seen so many perfectly still dolphins resting on the surface with just a few swimming about like sentries.
The calm lasted for several hours, but once the wind came up, it didn’t stop rising until we had 2 reefs in the mainsail and very little genoa flying. The rest of the journey of 4 nights and 5 days was unpleasant with many squalls, which sometimes whipped up a big, uncomfortable sea. At the end of my night watch, just before 2am, one of these squalls arrived suddenly with 30 plus knots of wind and heavy rain. I took the genoa sheet off the cleat to start reefing it in and the sheet was whipped out of my hand, even though it was wrapped round the winch several times. By the time I’d reefed enough in to get the boat under control, most of the sacrificial strip on the foot and leech had been ripped off.
We arrived safely at Toau Atoll in the Tuamotus Archipelago a few hours later. A closer examination of the genoa showed it was the stitching that had ripped and we spent a long day hand sewing it back together again.
Toau Atoll
We had a wonderful welcome. Our friends, Oscar and Graciela, on Zenitude (the ones who towed us when we damaged the prop shaft at the end of the Panama Canal) came on the VHF as we approached. Two dinghies came out from other boats to help us tie up to a mooring buoy. One couple, David and Marion, from Kilkea, we recognised. We had been in a minibus together in Trinidad last November, on a trip to the Asa Wright Nature Centre with Jesse James. How amazing to meet up again half way round the world!
Toau is beautiful. One family lives at the anchorage called Anse Amyot. Valentina and Gaston welcome yachts. They have put down the moorings to save the coral and you either pay for the mooring or have dinner in their restaurant on the edge of the water. We chose to have dinner. Three nights in a row, we were welcomed ashore. First we had “happy hour”, which lasted 3 hours. Several yachties went ashore, shared snacks and drank wine or beer. Valentina saw the cocktail sticks I’d taken ashore with a bowl of olives and said she’d like some. The next night when we went ashore for dinner, I gave her most of the cocktail sticks as a gift. Twenty people sat down to a lobster dinner at two tables, one French speaking and the other English. A 39th wedding anniversary was being celebrated and Valentina made a cake. We had a great night out and really got to know the other crews in the anchorage. The following day was American Independence Day. It was also Valentina’s niece’s birthday, so we were all invited ashore again for a Pot Luck supper. We each took a dish to share and our own drinks. Jeremy played volleyball for the first time in 30 years and suffered for it later. I played at the end as it started to go dark. The locals beat us but the visitors put up a good fight. After supper, Valentina and her father played guitars and all the family sang Polynesian songs as the BBQ fire died down. We sang Happy Birthday to Sidonie in 4 languages and shared her birthday cake. When we were leaving and thanked Valentina she said, “This is your home.” What a wonderful lady.
Toau is the friendliest place we’ve been to in the Pacific. The snorkelling was as good as anywhere we’ve been and we’ve even seen sharks close up in the fish trap in the lagoon. No-one is keen to let them out! We were sad to leave but it was time to find a shop and some fresh fruit and veg. We needed to top up on diesel as well.
Fakarava Atoll
It’s just over 40 miles from Toau to Rotoava village on Fakarava. We motorsailed into a headwind and the squalls we had experienced before kept hitting us. The northern pass into the lagoon is a mile wide but the wind and tide whip up a white sea of waves at the entrance. No-one has tide tables and we arrived at the entrance with wind and tide against us. We crept in at 1.5 knots and then motored 4 miles to the village at a more reasonable speed. Fakarava is the second largest atoll. It has an airstrip, a hotel, 3 shops, a bank and a post office. Civilisation indeed! We’re anchored in front of Gryphon II; an English boat crewed by a couple from Suffolk called Chris and Lorraine. There are about 16 boats anchored here, so it’s a popular place.
Yesterday the supply boat came in. It comes once a week and the whole village seems to go to the quay to meet it. We took our jerry cans ashore and bought 50 litres of diesel from the boat. Many locals were doing the same. We were able to stock up with cheese and fresh fruit and veg once the shops had taken their deliveries. Jeremy was reminded of his young days in Tobermory, Isle of Mull, Scotland, when the boat used to come in and was met in a similar way.
Wednesday, 23 June 2010
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