Bahia de Tortuga to Cabo San Lucas

Bahia de Tortuga or Turtle Bay has the most expensive diesel on the Pacific Mexican coast, at the end of the long dock. We learned this the hard way on our last visit and had to pay the high price. This time we took containers ashore and a trolley and walked up to the Pemex filling station, where Jeremy paid half the asking price at the dock. Ok, it was a bit of a struggle lowering the 25 litre containers down the dock steps and into the dinghy, but it was worth the effort. While ashore, we topped up our food supplies from the two supermercados.

The rugged coast of Isla Cerro

The passage from Turtle Bay to Bahia Juanico was an overnighter. We were determined to sail and managed 2-3 hours goosewinged. In the evening, a fresh wind arrived and we sailed again for several hours. The weather was noticeably warmer at last. We wore shorts and t-shirts during the day, but the nights were cold requiring long trousers, woolly hats, socks and jackets. It went dark about an hour before our arrival at Juanico, so we entered the bay using radar and MaxSea to help us. Our night sight was severely hampered by a bright spotlight ashore and a brightly lit fishing vessel at the harbour entrance.

Off we went the next day on another overnight passage to Bahia Maria, arriving at 0810 on Saturday 20^th January. Strong winds were forecast so I was happy to relax for a day and a night at anchor. One fisherman came by asking for batteries, candy and Coca Cola. We gave him 3xAAA’s and a cereal bar. Apart from one or two passing pangas we had the bay to ourselves. I swam in the sea for the first time this trip.

Stunning ochre colours

The next morning we saw a yacht anchored about half a mile away. It was Chris and Angie on S/V Motu (Octopus). We had met them in Turtle Bay. We had a lighthearted race to Bahia Magdalene. Sal Darago led the way. Soon we had to reef the mainsail and genoa as we zipped along at 7 knots. By evening we had two reefs in the main, followed by a spell of motoring and then another few hours of sailing in the early morning hours.

Jeremy was cross with me for dawdling along at 2.5 knots after lunch, as he wanted to arrive at Cabo San Lucas while it was still light. We motored the rest of the way expecting the forecast 25kts of wind from the north at any moment. They didn’t materialise and we rounded Cabo Falso with 11 kts of SW winds. It was calm enough for us to eat our sandwiches.

Pacific sunset

We anchored off Cabo San Lucas at 2030 on Monday 22^nd January in the dark. Four or five yachts were anchored nearby. The next day Jeremy called API (Port Authority) and gave them our anchoring position. We were fine to stay where we were for the next few days. The cooking gas ran out before breakfast. Fortunately, we had spares.

Punta Lazaro from Bahia Maria

We made use of the marina dinghy dock for a charge of 3USD per day and visited the usual cruiser haunts i.e. Officina de Capitania de Puerto, fuel dock, lavenderia, supermercados and restaurants. As before, we watched the various watercraft taking tourists out for daytrips, parasailing, snorkelling/diving or jet skiing. The long, curved, pristine beach is dotted with sunbeds and umbrellas. Behind them hotels and apartments stretch out for several miles. What a contrast to the peace and quiet of Bahia Maria.

Catalina Island, USA to Bahia de Tortuga, Mexico

Our second night at Catalina Island was spent on anchor at Catalina Harbour. There is little anchoring space left but plenty of moorings to rent. We were asked to move from our spot as a barge was coming in, so we went to Little Harbour nearby. It’s a lovely cove but there is a rock in the middle of the bay and the swell comes in round a reef at the entrance. We put out bow and stern anchors.

Catalina Harbour

We left Little Harbour on Thursday 4^th January at 1515. Our destination was San Diego. It was a calm, moonlit, overnight motorsail. As we neared the inner end of the entrance channel to San Diego Harbour, we stood by and watched the aircraft carrier, USS Carl Vinsen pass us on its way to its tour of duty in the Pacific Ocean. Many of the 6,000 crew lined the decks. It was an impressive sight. We dipped our ensign. How did they know we were coming? What a welcome for Sal Darago!

Grand welcome for Sal Darago

This sight prompted us to visit the USS Midway Museum, where we spent a whole day following their excellent audio tour and talking to knowledgeable docents, many of whom served on the preserved aircraft carrier in her past, glory days. Her last assignment was as lead ship in Operation Desert Storm and she had previously been in Korea and in Vietnam.

Latest recruit

We spent 5 nights in San Diego. While we were there it rained for the first time since last February. Further north, mudslides destroyed homes and blocked highways. Fifteen people lost their lives. The same area had been blighted by the Thomas fire just before Christmas. We counted our blessings.

Flight deck USS Midway

We checked out of the USA downtown at the office of Customs and Border Patrol. The next day, Thursday 11^th January, we motorsailed the 65 miles to Ensenada, Mexico, in light winds.

Steering USS Midway

We returned to Baja Naval Marina. Carmina in the marina office was very helpful preparing all the paperwork needed for entry to Mexico. All the officials we had to see were located in one building. First was Immigration – cost 1,064 pesos for two persons. Second was the Port Captain – cost 288 pesos. We had to return later for a letter from the Port Captain. We were free to leave.

San Diego waterfront

As we had been to Ensenada before, we soon found an ATM, laundry and supermercado. A local mother and daughter gave us a lift in their car to a bank as the closest ATM had no money. Mostly, people are very kind and helpful.

Colourful fountain display at Ensenada

We cast off from Baja Naval on Sunday 14^th January, motored 4 miles to the Pemex fuel berth in Marina Coral and started our journey to Bahia Tortugas, arriving in the afternoon of Tuesday 16^th January. The highest windspeed recorded the first 24 hours was 5.2 knots. The calm weather gave us many opportunities to see whales blowing and breeching, their tails disappearing gracefully as they dived. The second day gave us a brief blast of 13 knot winds and we were able to sail for two and a half hours. We used our Hydrovane for the first time this trip. Later, when we were motoring again, our autopilot, Neco, went into a strop, objecting so much to the pull of Heidi’s rudder, that he threw a grub screw and stopped working. Jeremy gave him lots of tlc, adjusted his turning circle and replaced his grub screw. Apart from one further glitch, he behaved impeccably for the rest of the trip.

Huge Mexican flag flying over Ensenada Harbour

Point Conception to Santa Catalina Island

Santa Barbara Harbour

All went well while I was on watch going round Point Conception, except for something small on the prop, which came off first time. Dawn broke over Santa Cruz Island, turning the sky and the sea red.

When Jeremy came on watch he felt sure there was still something round the prop so he stripped off and went overboard with the bread knife. Minutes later he came back on board with a handful of seaweed and a short piece of rope.

Christmas Eve on Sal Darago

We arrived at Santa Barbara Harbour just after 11.00 am on 23^rd December and stayed for four nights. We were able to wish our family and friends Merry Christmas and generally relax after shopping for Christmas. We ate well on board on Christmas Eve and Christmas Day. We even had a Christmas tree! We went to the carriage driving museum after Christmas and were impressed by the many carriages, saddles and bridles on display. Entrance was free.

Kathy at the Santa Barbara Carriage Museum

As we prepared to leave Santa Barbara, a fellow sailor came along and gave us a bottle of wine. Thank you, Mark.

Mansion above Paradise Cove

The next stop was Channel Islands Harbour for one night. We decided not to buy a shower and gate key card for $25 as we were only staying one night. We showered on Sal Darago and discovered the next morning that the bilges were full of water. Our shower bilge pump had not been working. Much pumping followed and later Jeremy found that the float switch was not working.

Outside the Chinese Theatre, Los Angeles

On our way to Paradise Cove, off Malibu Beach, we passed numerous dolphins and many sealions. It was difficult to find a place to anchor on our arrival as there was a forest of kelp and many fishing pots. Fortunately, the night was calm, so there was no dragging.

Fame indeed

It was a short hop the next day to Marina del Rey on the other side of Santa Monica Bay. We spent 4 nights on the guest docks and used the marina as a base to visit Los Angeles. It took about an hour and a half by bus and train to reach Hollywood but only cost $7 each with a Metro TAP card. 

Hollywood Boulevard

We saw a number of hand and footprints of the stars of yesterday and today as well as many famous names on the Walk of Fame. The Hollywood Forever Cemetery was a peaceful oasis and the long bus ride down Sunset Boulevard passing Sunset Strip and Beverley Hills was an interesting experience.

Hollywood sign from Forever Cemetery

The next day, Sunday 31^st December, we went to Downtown LA, visiting the Walt Disney Centre, the Music Centre, City Hall and Central Park. All the buildings were closed on Sundays but they were all worth seeing.

Carollers in the park, Marina del Rey

 Back at Marina del Rey preparations were underway for New Year’s Eve. 

Jeremy at the Walt Disney Centre

The party in the park next to our berth started at 7.00pm. A ten minute firework display, at 9.00pm, celebrated New Year on the East Coast and another ten minute firework display, at midnight, celebrated New Year on the West Coast. Hundreds of people gathered in the park for the free evening. We had a clear view of the fireworks from Sal Darago’s cockpit.

Music Centre, Los Angeles

On New Year’s Day we bought a new float switch from West Marine and treated ourselves to new pairs of boat shoes from their sale. Jeremy replaced the float switch in SD’s shower, so we were ready to go to sea again.

City Hall, Los Angeles

Today, 3^rd January, we are about to spend our second night at Santa Catalina Island.

Santa Cruz to Point Conception

 Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year to all our readers.

Royal Presidio Chapel

It was sad to say goodbye to Simon and Erin at Santa Cruz, but perhaps they will join us in Mexico where the weather is warmer.

Coulton Hall

We motored across Monterey Bay in calm weather on 17^th December and anchored for two nights outside the harbour. Jeremy fitted a new aerial and wire for our Garmin GPS. Previously, we kept losing satellite navigation on an intermittent basis. We’ve had no trouble since the new aerial was fitted.

Jeremy outside the Custom House

Monterey was once the capital of California and an interesting place to visit. The Visitor Information office gave us a map and information for a self-guided historical walking tour. We saw the first church in California (the Royal Presidio Chapel) the first public building (Coulton Hall) and the first government building (Custom House). In addition, we stood outside the French Hotel where Robert Louis Stephenson stayed and went into the room in John Steinbeck’s house where he wrote “The Pearl”. We viewed Cannery Row and the Aquarium from the sea as we motored out of the bay on our way to Morro Bay.

The Californian Constitution was signed here in Coulton Hall

This was an overnight trip in fairly calm conditions, so we motorsailed until there wasn’t enough wind to fill the genoa. At 2.00am, in the cold and dark, something went round the prop and almost stopped the engine. I was off watch and in bed. Jeremy called me up because he thought he would have to go overboard to free the prop. Fortunately, at the 4^th attempt in reverse, the prop freed itself and we continued our journey with no further incidents arriving at Morro Bay at 0800 on 20^th December.

Perhaps Steinbeck wrote The Pearl at this table

Morro Bay has the most dangerous entrance on the Californian coast. There was barely any swell at all when we arrived, but I persuaded Jeremy to call the Coastguard as our cruising guide advised, to check on the entrance conditions. It was fine. 

Approaching the entrance to Morro Bay Harbour

We anchored in the harbour, but there was little swinging room between the moorings, the fairway and the shoals. After a while Harbour Patrol came along to warn us we were in danger of going aground, so we weighed anchor and went to Morro Bay Yacht Club, where we received a friendly welcome and access to hot showers and a laundry. We stayed for two nights and sampled two of the many eateries. We also walked up to the cinema and watched the latest Star Wars film, “The Last Jedhi.”

The chimneys dominate Morro Bay Harbour

On 21 December, it was strange to be listening to Maghull Radio at 5.30 am, but we did not want to miss Dave Hughes’ show and hear “A Spaceman Came Travelling”, which Dave played for us. Thank you, Dave for thinking of us.

SD tied to the dock at Morro Bay Yacht Club

We had another overnight sail ahead of us which would take us around “the Cape Horn of California”, Point Conception and on to Santa Barbara. We flew full sails for a short time and then the wind died away, so it was back to motoring. Jeremy was on watch as it went dark. Suddenly, he was startled by a missile exploding overhead. Fortunately, the Coastguard broadcast soon afterwards reassured mariners that this was routine missile firing and there was no danger to shipping.

UFO or USA Missile?