Our magic carpet |
We had a couple of ships on a collision course or about to
pass too close which we called on the VHF radio. They had seen us and they were
happy to alter course to avoid us. The worst hazard was the fishing vessels as
we started to close with the coast in the dark. There were so many I thought I
was back in Indonesia. Mostly they are brightly lit, but avoiding one puts you
too close to another. There was a scary moment when I started the engine to
avoid a fishing vessel as I passed through the fleet and another when I
accidentally released the mainsheet and nearly lost the boom, but generally,
all went well and SD performed well under sail and under engine.
Cabo Villano |
After 3 nights and 4 days at sea, we reached the Costa del
Morte rounding Cabo Villano and Cabo Finisterre. Eight years ago we met stormy
seas here but this time it was calm as we motored gently towards the town of
Finisterre in the Rias Atlas and dropped the anchor off Ensada de Llagosteira.
“Jeremy,” I joked. “We’ve gone the wrong way and we’re in a Scottish loch”. The
scenery could easily have been from the Western Isles and the temperature was
similar in the chill northerly winds.
Cabo Finisterre |
The next day we explored the town and enjoyed wandering
through the narrow alleys of the old quarter. We met several people who had
been walking the cominos or pilgrim paths to Sandiago de Compostela. Many had
walked 800 kilometres. We went to see the Capitain to check in but no papers
were needed. He recommended an “economical” restaurant on the corner near the
harbour and we had menu a dia for 12 euros each. This included 3 courses, 2
beers and a bottle of water. After this we really needed a siesta.
Fabulous old alleys |
Don't get lost |
After two nights at anchor, we motored round to Ria de
Muros, leaving in misty conditions and arriving in bright sunshine as the day
warmed up. We anchored for lunch in Ensenada San Francisco and moved on to
anchor off Muros for the night. The forecast was for SW gales so we were
pleased to have good protection from the wind and good holding for our anchor.
Muros was similar to Finisterre with a fascinating old town of narrow streets
and alleys. We had lunch ashore choosing one course each this time. The
portions were enormous and I was glad I had a doggy bag with me. I had enough
left over for lunch the following day.
Roof tops of Muros |
We left Muros at midday on 25th September and had
a rocky rolly ride to Ria de Pontevedra . A tropical storm way out in the
Atlantic sent a 3 metre swell our way so we took refuge off Playa de Silga near
Sanxenxo. The outlying rocks and islands broke up the swell and we were fine.
The next morning we motored round the corner to the marina and filled up with
diesel and water before crossing the Ria to anchor between Bueu and Beluso.
There is small marina in both ports. Beluso is pretty and quiet. Bueu is a busy
fishing harbour with lots of shops and supermarkets. We stocked up on milk and
beer.
Anchored in San Francisco Bay... REALLY. |
Tomorrow, we hope to go to Baiona to have our gas bottles
filled and it’s about time we visited a laundry.
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