Sunset at Tyrrell Bay, Carriacou. It could contain the "green flash" if you can enlarge the sun.
Happy Christmas everyone.
Sunday, 27 December 2009
Tuesday, 22 December 2009
Christmas Greetings
Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year to all our readers! We hope the snow in the UK has added to the Christmas spirit and not prevented family and friends from being together. We miss our family and friends at this time, particularly Emily and Simon, who are having a second Christmas without us.
Ben is much better now and has been given the all clear from cancer and from the infection which followed the operation. Thank you to everyone who gave their support during the last few weeks. Simon and Erin have finished their contracts in South Korea and started their honeymoon/travels. They are somewhere in Thailand and, like us, they will be enjoying a tropical Christmas in shorts or swimwear, sipping cold beers or rum punch, taking a dip in the warm sea to cool off and watching the sunset over a distant and vast horizon, perhaps sheltering from the heat in the shade of coconut palms. No sledging for us!
Unfortunately, paradise was very nearly spoiled with the return of the cockroaches, the first ones being caught and killed on the day before we were launched in Trinidad. We suspect they crawled up the electricity wire or hosepipe, but they could have hitched a ride on our vegetables. They are much smaller than the Canary Island variety and harder to see. There was one in the fridge which crawled over my hand when I thought I’d squashed it – ugh! I made sure it was dead and flushed it down the sink. We haven’t seen any live ones for a week now, so we hope all the bug spraying we did has been effective.
We have moved on from the island of Grenada to one of her sister islands called Carriacou. This is probably our favourite Caribbean island and is part of the beautiful Grenadines. We hiked over the south coast and along at least a mile of empty white sand beach, stopping to drink milk from a green coconut on the way. We were so sad to see the hurricane damaged and later vandalised Cassada Bay Resort, which once must have been quite exclusive, with a fabulous view across the southern, uninhabited islands. We’ve taken in some local culture by supporting the Parang Festival, where six bands competed against each other and the audience sat for four hours on concrete steps. The Governor General and his wife were just in front of us, but they had chairs and very obvious security guards. We were so tired when the event finished at 2.00am, about 4 hours after our usual bedtime! This time, we have been more adventurous with trying local food such as rotis, doubles, plantains and provisions. We can’t swallow the hot sauce though, which makes Tabasco seem mild! Mum – I’ve started to eat cabbage and Em and Ben – we’ve been eating garlic! Don’t think it’s deterred the mossies, yet.
Today, we had a great time anchored off an outlying, uninhabited island called Frigate Island. The water was as clear as the sea off Isle de Ronde, where we stopped for lunch and a snorkel on our way from Grenada. I used my camera underwater for the first time, so thanks to all my work colleagues who contributed towards it as a retirement present. We will be posting some photos soon.
In the meantime, enjoy the festive season and the break from work and school. If you fancy a bit of winter sun, we’re in the Caribbean for 3 more months and we have some spare berths, as long as you don’t all come at once!
Ben is much better now and has been given the all clear from cancer and from the infection which followed the operation. Thank you to everyone who gave their support during the last few weeks. Simon and Erin have finished their contracts in South Korea and started their honeymoon/travels. They are somewhere in Thailand and, like us, they will be enjoying a tropical Christmas in shorts or swimwear, sipping cold beers or rum punch, taking a dip in the warm sea to cool off and watching the sunset over a distant and vast horizon, perhaps sheltering from the heat in the shade of coconut palms. No sledging for us!
Unfortunately, paradise was very nearly spoiled with the return of the cockroaches, the first ones being caught and killed on the day before we were launched in Trinidad. We suspect they crawled up the electricity wire or hosepipe, but they could have hitched a ride on our vegetables. They are much smaller than the Canary Island variety and harder to see. There was one in the fridge which crawled over my hand when I thought I’d squashed it – ugh! I made sure it was dead and flushed it down the sink. We haven’t seen any live ones for a week now, so we hope all the bug spraying we did has been effective.
We have moved on from the island of Grenada to one of her sister islands called Carriacou. This is probably our favourite Caribbean island and is part of the beautiful Grenadines. We hiked over the south coast and along at least a mile of empty white sand beach, stopping to drink milk from a green coconut on the way. We were so sad to see the hurricane damaged and later vandalised Cassada Bay Resort, which once must have been quite exclusive, with a fabulous view across the southern, uninhabited islands. We’ve taken in some local culture by supporting the Parang Festival, where six bands competed against each other and the audience sat for four hours on concrete steps. The Governor General and his wife were just in front of us, but they had chairs and very obvious security guards. We were so tired when the event finished at 2.00am, about 4 hours after our usual bedtime! This time, we have been more adventurous with trying local food such as rotis, doubles, plantains and provisions. We can’t swallow the hot sauce though, which makes Tabasco seem mild! Mum – I’ve started to eat cabbage and Em and Ben – we’ve been eating garlic! Don’t think it’s deterred the mossies, yet.
Today, we had a great time anchored off an outlying, uninhabited island called Frigate Island. The water was as clear as the sea off Isle de Ronde, where we stopped for lunch and a snorkel on our way from Grenada. I used my camera underwater for the first time, so thanks to all my work colleagues who contributed towards it as a retirement present. We will be posting some photos soon.
In the meantime, enjoy the festive season and the break from work and school. If you fancy a bit of winter sun, we’re in the Caribbean for 3 more months and we have some spare berths, as long as you don’t all come at once!
Sunday, 6 December 2009
Kuoni Swamp Trinidad
On our way from Asa Wright Nature Reserve to Kuoni Swamp, the road was blocked by a huge tree. The men in the car in front produced a chain saw and machete. We pulled branches away until we realized that they were covered in ants. The ants were biting ants!!! Afterwards Jeremy had to undress in the taxi and removed several of them which had become attached in the the most sentitive of places. The taxi, the size of a small mini bus, managed to pass on the right of the picture with 2 inches to clear. The other way round was five hours longer.
As we passed through the swamp, we had this lovely snake pointed out to us. He/she (how do you tell?) was just above our heads.
The view down the swamp from our (hired) boat.
These red dots are scarlet ibis roosting for the night. Believe me we were a long way away from them and it was not possible to see even red dots with the naked eye! Chacachare Island and Bird Watching
Jeremy next to a deserted leper beach hut in the idyllic Island of (say it slowly) Chacachacare. There was a whole community of houses, most of which were overgrown by the jungle. Curiously about 200 yds up from the beach and the main colony was a recently renovated area with a temple to Hare Krishna.This the view from the lighthouse across Chacachacare
which is about 900 feet above sea level. Kathy and I managed to hitch a lift up to the lighthouse with one of the keepers which saved us a three mile walk uphill. It was a beautiful Sunday morning and relatively few trippers came to the Island from "mainland" Trinidad - about as many as you'd find on Piel Islands on a good Bank Holiday.
The lighthouse was built by the British in 1897 and is still in good nick. The road up is narrowed by the vegetation and a small 4x4 can only just squeeze past the tight places at 40mph! Kathy and I were in the pickup part of the vehicle and once or twice we were swoshed with vegetation lashing past. The big shock came (Indiana Jones Style) when we had to pass under a fallen bamboo. I was looking ahead and cleverly ducked as the bamboo passed over our heads with about 6 inches to spare.
We went on a day trip with Jesse James Members Only Maxi Taxi Service. Jesse is a mine of information. He kept us entertained and well fed; doubles for breakfast, 3 course lunch at the Asa Wright Centre and ice cream on the way home. The only downside was it rained all day apart from a short time when we were on small boats exploring the Kuoni Swamp. This is Woodie Woodpecker in the Asa Wright Nature Centre Trinidad. Now as Picasa will only let us Blog 4 photos we hope to upload some more.
Thursday, 3 December 2009
Monday, 30 November 2009
Good News
30/11/09 Monday
Hello from Grenada.
On Monday 16th November, Simon Spencer married Erin Worrel in South Korea where they are working as English teachers. We are very happy for them and wish them every happiness for the future.
On Tuesday 24th November our new son-in-law, Ben Deacon went into hospital for major surgery to remove a cancer from his bowel. The operation was successful, but it has left Ben very weak and it will take him quite a while to recover and eventually be back at work. We hope that he and Emily manage to cope at this enormously difficult time, especially when we are so far away.
Almost at the same time, our good friend, Guido, whom we met in the Canaries and subsequently in the Caribbean on many occasions, underwent a triple heart bypass operation. He had sailed home from the Caribbean; he was dismasted and had to buy a new mast in New York and suffered gales crossing to Falmouth. Just in time he was operated upon as the doctors gave him two weeks to live. His operation too was successful.
As you can see Kathy and I are very pleased to be sitting in Prickly Bay, Grenada, on anchor in the sun, worrying about what to wear this evening for a meal out! Trinidad was great for getting the boat fixed up. It was also cheaper than the rest of the Caribbean (in our limited experience) and Power Boats, Chaguaramus was really helpful (Thank you to Brian Bell from “Small World” for that recommendation).
In Trinidad and Tobago, the Customs were too much. We even had to inform them when we anchored for the night in the beautiful former leper colony on Chacachacare Island which is six miles from Chaguaramus. We made some good friends at “Chag” and were helped by the boating community to bring Sal Darago up to scratch. On our launch day we were less than pleased when a ship, the size of a large trawler, called “Save Our Seas” overfilled one of its diesel tanks and deposited thick oil all over the next boat being launched – you guessed – Sal Darago.
On our night sail of 80+ miles from Trinidad to Grenada, we reefed the mainsail. At 2030, in the dark, we ran over a large fishing net which snagged around our rudder. Sal Darago stopped. A few moments later she gybed which throws the mainsail over to the other side of the boat at speed (20 knots of wind). This ripped one reefing block from its track and we were left snared by the rudder with no reefing capabilities. Kathy and I rolled up the foresail. Then, with Kathy holding the torch, I tried to pull the top line from the nets on board. The boat hook was wrenched from my hand in the large swell. I decided to get into the water with the bread knife. I really hate cutting fishing nets, but we were in some danger. I clung to the ladders and cut the net away. The swell sometimes came over my head. Slowly we moved away when we were again caught by another piece of the net. The process was repeated. Finally, we dropped the main and I replaced the reefing block on the outside edge of the boom. We continued to Grenada, arriving at ninish in the morning.
We are so happy to be cruising again.
Hello from Grenada.
On Monday 16th November, Simon Spencer married Erin Worrel in South Korea where they are working as English teachers. We are very happy for them and wish them every happiness for the future.
On Tuesday 24th November our new son-in-law, Ben Deacon went into hospital for major surgery to remove a cancer from his bowel. The operation was successful, but it has left Ben very weak and it will take him quite a while to recover and eventually be back at work. We hope that he and Emily manage to cope at this enormously difficult time, especially when we are so far away.
Almost at the same time, our good friend, Guido, whom we met in the Canaries and subsequently in the Caribbean on many occasions, underwent a triple heart bypass operation. He had sailed home from the Caribbean; he was dismasted and had to buy a new mast in New York and suffered gales crossing to Falmouth. Just in time he was operated upon as the doctors gave him two weeks to live. His operation too was successful.
As you can see Kathy and I are very pleased to be sitting in Prickly Bay, Grenada, on anchor in the sun, worrying about what to wear this evening for a meal out! Trinidad was great for getting the boat fixed up. It was also cheaper than the rest of the Caribbean (in our limited experience) and Power Boats, Chaguaramus was really helpful (Thank you to Brian Bell from “Small World” for that recommendation).
In Trinidad and Tobago, the Customs were too much. We even had to inform them when we anchored for the night in the beautiful former leper colony on Chacachacare Island which is six miles from Chaguaramus. We made some good friends at “Chag” and were helped by the boating community to bring Sal Darago up to scratch. On our launch day we were less than pleased when a ship, the size of a large trawler, called “Save Our Seas” overfilled one of its diesel tanks and deposited thick oil all over the next boat being launched – you guessed – Sal Darago.
On our night sail of 80+ miles from Trinidad to Grenada, we reefed the mainsail. At 2030, in the dark, we ran over a large fishing net which snagged around our rudder. Sal Darago stopped. A few moments later she gybed which throws the mainsail over to the other side of the boat at speed (20 knots of wind). This ripped one reefing block from its track and we were left snared by the rudder with no reefing capabilities. Kathy and I rolled up the foresail. Then, with Kathy holding the torch, I tried to pull the top line from the nets on board. The boat hook was wrenched from my hand in the large swell. I decided to get into the water with the bread knife. I really hate cutting fishing nets, but we were in some danger. I clung to the ladders and cut the net away. The swell sometimes came over my head. Slowly we moved away when we were again caught by another piece of the net. The process was repeated. Finally, we dropped the main and I replaced the reefing block on the outside edge of the boom. We continued to Grenada, arriving at ninish in the morning.
We are so happy to be cruising again.
Wednesday, 18 November 2009
Photos from Trinidad
We stayed at Emily and Ben's house for a few days before starting part two of our travels. Looks cosy, doesn't it?
Jeremy is at the top of the mast changing a block and putting on a halyard.
This is what happened to his shoes as he came down the mast. The glue must have melted in the heat during the months the boat was stored on land.
This is one of the two new solar panels that we had to persuade Customs to release from their store. Both are now fitted and working.
Shaun is fitting the new bimini and sprayhood.
Sunday, 15 November 2009
Still on Land
Happy birthday, Gavin!
We are still sweating buckets, trying to live and work on Sal Darago in heat and high humidity. We recorded 111 degreesF as we waited for Shaun to arrive to fit our new bimini (sunshade over the cockpit) and sprayhood. He arrived two hours late and had to work in the hottest part of the day. Jeremy, in an unfamiliar role for him, worked as Shaun’s assistant. Together they drilled and bolted the frame in place. As always with boat maintenance, there were one or two blips, but once the ceiling panels had been removed, the curtain rails hacksawed 6 inches shorter, the wardrobe emptied of clothes and a locker emptied of shoes, the new fixings could be accommodated. Four hours later, we had a new blue bimini and sprayhood and a week later we had two side panels to go with them.
Here in Chaguaramus, there is a Cruisers’ Net over the VHF radio Mon-Sat. We heard someone was giving away memory chips for laptops and walked to the Trinidad and Tobago Sailing Association (TTSA) anchorage to meet Alan from Kia. Our memory has now been doubled and everything is working much more quickly than before.
We went on a shopping trip organised by Members Only, the company that has taken us to and from the airport. We were able to buy fresh produce and check prices and dates for reprovisioning before we launch. As I was feeling more confident, I went on my own on the next shopping trip, leaving Jeremy sanding, filling and painting the bottom of the boat. We had a special visit to a gourmet deli on the way back, where I was amused to see Heinz baked beans displayed for about £2 a tin! I didn’t buy any.
We have had a launch; the dinghy is now afloat! Quite by chance, as we were motoring across to another marina, Jeremy recognised a yacht we knew called Moonshiner, last seen in Gran Canaria a year ago. Dick Emery was on board and the next day we chatted with him and Sarah for about two hours, exchanging experiences of crossing the Atlantic and visiting different places. They are going to Panama but probably not at the same time as us. Anyway, it was good to meet up again.
The heat finally became unbearable and I was finding it hard to cope, so after a brief altercation with Jeremy, I went to the office to rent an air conditioner. Would you believe, they had none left, but we’re first on the list?
Today, Selwyn is cleaning and polishing our topsides (the green bits). I’ve been scrubbing the decks and Jeremy has painted the bow and side decks. We are getting nearer to being ready to launch. I’ll let you know when we do.
We are still sweating buckets, trying to live and work on Sal Darago in heat and high humidity. We recorded 111 degreesF as we waited for Shaun to arrive to fit our new bimini (sunshade over the cockpit) and sprayhood. He arrived two hours late and had to work in the hottest part of the day. Jeremy, in an unfamiliar role for him, worked as Shaun’s assistant. Together they drilled and bolted the frame in place. As always with boat maintenance, there were one or two blips, but once the ceiling panels had been removed, the curtain rails hacksawed 6 inches shorter, the wardrobe emptied of clothes and a locker emptied of shoes, the new fixings could be accommodated. Four hours later, we had a new blue bimini and sprayhood and a week later we had two side panels to go with them.
Here in Chaguaramus, there is a Cruisers’ Net over the VHF radio Mon-Sat. We heard someone was giving away memory chips for laptops and walked to the Trinidad and Tobago Sailing Association (TTSA) anchorage to meet Alan from Kia. Our memory has now been doubled and everything is working much more quickly than before.
We went on a shopping trip organised by Members Only, the company that has taken us to and from the airport. We were able to buy fresh produce and check prices and dates for reprovisioning before we launch. As I was feeling more confident, I went on my own on the next shopping trip, leaving Jeremy sanding, filling and painting the bottom of the boat. We had a special visit to a gourmet deli on the way back, where I was amused to see Heinz baked beans displayed for about £2 a tin! I didn’t buy any.
We have had a launch; the dinghy is now afloat! Quite by chance, as we were motoring across to another marina, Jeremy recognised a yacht we knew called Moonshiner, last seen in Gran Canaria a year ago. Dick Emery was on board and the next day we chatted with him and Sarah for about two hours, exchanging experiences of crossing the Atlantic and visiting different places. They are going to Panama but probably not at the same time as us. Anyway, it was good to meet up again.
The heat finally became unbearable and I was finding it hard to cope, so after a brief altercation with Jeremy, I went to the office to rent an air conditioner. Would you believe, they had none left, but we’re first on the list?
Today, Selwyn is cleaning and polishing our topsides (the green bits). I’ve been scrubbing the decks and Jeremy has painted the bow and side decks. We are getting nearer to being ready to launch. I’ll let you know when we do.
Saturday, 7 November 2009
Back in Trinidad
Hi Everyone
Well here we are again in Trinidad getting ready to continue our travels. Our last six months in the UK were hectic. The obvious highlight was Emily and Ben’s wedding. Congratulations once again to Mr and Mrs Deacon! We were reunited with most of our family at the wedding. It was wonderful seeing Simon and Erin again. They are engaged and soon to be married – where and when are yet to be decided – somewhere abroad. Good luck to them as they finish their teaching in South Korea and start travelling in Indonesia.
I have officially retired from teaching, been given my P45 and my last pay cheque. Soon I hope to start to receiving my half pension. Jeremy has his pension now, so we’ve been able to eat out twice in one week! The house should be let but our first tenant cannot make up her mind, so our agents are advertising again. Does anyone want to rent a 3 bedroom house in West Lancashire?
Our journey here took 26 hours. We arrived in Trinidad about 6.00am on 30/10/09 and spent the next 2 hours stuck in the morning rush hour in our taxi/minibus. Sal Darago was in fine shape. The old tent cover had disintegrated but she was clean and dry inside. We had to go to Immigration and Customs here in Chaguaramus, even though we had been cleared at the airport. We checked into our apartment at 1.00pm. The air conditioning was lovely but we got cold as we slept! The next day the water went off, just after the office had closed for the weekend and stayed off until the following afternoon! It was distinctly unreal for Jeremy to have to carry water in containers from the boat tap across the yard, so that we could wash, cook and drink! It was even more bizarre to be standing in a washing up bowl in the shower!
We have worked hard when the heat would let us, getting up at 5.00am when it’s only about 70 degrees F. By mid morning it’s 90plus. Yesterday, when Jeremy was replacing our hot water tank, it was 100F! After 4 nights in the apartment, we moved on board. The heat was unbearable – too much for our UK blow heater on cold and our 12v computer fans! I hired a fan from the boatyard and I’m sitting here in front of it now at 7.55am, wearing a bikini top and swimming shorts! The down side is the biting insects! You can see the mosquitoes and they are not really a problem. Some tiny, Scottish midge type creatures, called locally “no see-ums”, bite you round the ankles and knees as you walk. It’s only later, when the red marks and itching start that you know you’ve been bitten. We’re going to get through a lot of deet and sun lotion!
So far, we’ve replaced the spinnaker pole and had to move the housing on the deck as the new one’s a little shorter! Jeremy bought a second hand hot water tank and fitted it. The broken dinghy floor boards have been replaced and painted, all the halyards and sails are on and tins of antifoul paint have been sourced. We still have a long list of jobs to do before we can launch.
I am sure my colleagues at Skelmersdale will be relieved that inspection week is over. I hope you all achieved the usual high grades and have no more inspections until next year!
All the best to everyone.
Well here we are again in Trinidad getting ready to continue our travels. Our last six months in the UK were hectic. The obvious highlight was Emily and Ben’s wedding. Congratulations once again to Mr and Mrs Deacon! We were reunited with most of our family at the wedding. It was wonderful seeing Simon and Erin again. They are engaged and soon to be married – where and when are yet to be decided – somewhere abroad. Good luck to them as they finish their teaching in South Korea and start travelling in Indonesia.
I have officially retired from teaching, been given my P45 and my last pay cheque. Soon I hope to start to receiving my half pension. Jeremy has his pension now, so we’ve been able to eat out twice in one week! The house should be let but our first tenant cannot make up her mind, so our agents are advertising again. Does anyone want to rent a 3 bedroom house in West Lancashire?
Our journey here took 26 hours. We arrived in Trinidad about 6.00am on 30/10/09 and spent the next 2 hours stuck in the morning rush hour in our taxi/minibus. Sal Darago was in fine shape. The old tent cover had disintegrated but she was clean and dry inside. We had to go to Immigration and Customs here in Chaguaramus, even though we had been cleared at the airport. We checked into our apartment at 1.00pm. The air conditioning was lovely but we got cold as we slept! The next day the water went off, just after the office had closed for the weekend and stayed off until the following afternoon! It was distinctly unreal for Jeremy to have to carry water in containers from the boat tap across the yard, so that we could wash, cook and drink! It was even more bizarre to be standing in a washing up bowl in the shower!
We have worked hard when the heat would let us, getting up at 5.00am when it’s only about 70 degrees F. By mid morning it’s 90plus. Yesterday, when Jeremy was replacing our hot water tank, it was 100F! After 4 nights in the apartment, we moved on board. The heat was unbearable – too much for our UK blow heater on cold and our 12v computer fans! I hired a fan from the boatyard and I’m sitting here in front of it now at 7.55am, wearing a bikini top and swimming shorts! The down side is the biting insects! You can see the mosquitoes and they are not really a problem. Some tiny, Scottish midge type creatures, called locally “no see-ums”, bite you round the ankles and knees as you walk. It’s only later, when the red marks and itching start that you know you’ve been bitten. We’re going to get through a lot of deet and sun lotion!
So far, we’ve replaced the spinnaker pole and had to move the housing on the deck as the new one’s a little shorter! Jeremy bought a second hand hot water tank and fitted it. The broken dinghy floor boards have been replaced and painted, all the halyards and sails are on and tins of antifoul paint have been sourced. We still have a long list of jobs to do before we can launch.
I am sure my colleagues at Skelmersdale will be relieved that inspection week is over. I hope you all achieved the usual high grades and have no more inspections until next year!
All the best to everyone.
Tuesday, 27 October 2009
Getting ready to leave the UK
Staying at Ben & Emily's place in Woodbridge, Suffolk. Tomorrow we go to Manchester and fly to the USA followed by Trinidad.....
Tuesday, 6 October 2009
Three weeks to go
Three weeks left before we fly back to Trinidad. As you can see the operation to remove a lump from my right arm has gone well and the staples are now out. It did not hurt at all. Our son Simon contacted us from South Korea to announce his engagement to Erin. I think it is just a delaying tactic, or maybe it means another flight back to the UK. He proposed by moonlight on a beach in Bali - suppose it beats Skegness. Kathy is still at work and I am recovering and trying to empty our house so it can be let unfurnished. We have managed to get rid of two leather couches. If anyone calls we can still sit on the carpet ;-)
It's great to be thinking of getting back to Sal Darago and hey maybe even doing some sailing before the end of the year. That's all for now folks. See you soon.
Sunday, 7 June 2009
Saturday, 6 June 2009
News from Home
We have been home for five weeks now and I thought a quick update would do no harm. Since we have been back, there have been numerous admin jobs to be sorted along with all the visits to the doctors, dentists and hospitals. While we were away, our neighbours did a great job of looking after the house. We are now vetting estate agents/letting agencies so that the house will at least cover its own costs while we are away next time.
England continues to be beautiful, but the noise from the media gloating over MPs who had taken legitimate and illegitimate expenses has been deafening. We now do not have one socialist run county council (local council) in the UK, which is a fitting tribute to Tony Blair, the best Tory whom the Conservatives never had. Insurance for the Pacific is proving expensive and we have to decide if we should forego the cover of insurance at £2,500.
On 30 May, 2009 Emily Spencer and Ben Deacon were married in Woodbridge. It was a fabulous day. The wedding ceremony was lovely and the reception at Thorpeness Country Club was most enjoyable. As father of the Bride, I gave my daughter away, gave the speech without too many errors and waved farewell as the Happy Couple moved onto the next phase of their lives. Emily and Ben have travelled extensively and it was following their exploits which lead to Kathy and I setting out in Sal Darago. We would have been in the Pacific now if it had not been for their wedding, but come the day, we were very proud to be the (present) Mother and Father of the Bride. Simon, our son who is working in South Korea, and his girlfriend Erin both made the trip to be with the family on this special day. It was brilliant to see them both looking so well, despite all the travelling they had had to do.
In May we attended my nephew, Patrick’s 40th birthday party. Next week, my niece, Amanda, brings her third child, Nathan, to England from Chicago, where the family live at present. They will stay with Julian, my nephew, near Alton in the South of England. Most of the family will attend Nathan’s Christening. So we have another chance for a big get together of the Spencer Clan. In July, we sail (on a ferry) to the Isle of Man for Albert’s 60th birthday party. This should give us a chance to catch up on Kathy’s family (as well as at the wedding), as Al is her brother-in-law.
Oh yes, Kathy started working last Monday (1st June). I think she would have preferred to be sailing in the Caribbean! So all is going well for us and we hope the same is true for you too.
England continues to be beautiful, but the noise from the media gloating over MPs who had taken legitimate and illegitimate expenses has been deafening. We now do not have one socialist run county council (local council) in the UK, which is a fitting tribute to Tony Blair, the best Tory whom the Conservatives never had. Insurance for the Pacific is proving expensive and we have to decide if we should forego the cover of insurance at £2,500.
On 30 May, 2009 Emily Spencer and Ben Deacon were married in Woodbridge. It was a fabulous day. The wedding ceremony was lovely and the reception at Thorpeness Country Club was most enjoyable. As father of the Bride, I gave my daughter away, gave the speech without too many errors and waved farewell as the Happy Couple moved onto the next phase of their lives. Emily and Ben have travelled extensively and it was following their exploits which lead to Kathy and I setting out in Sal Darago. We would have been in the Pacific now if it had not been for their wedding, but come the day, we were very proud to be the (present) Mother and Father of the Bride. Simon, our son who is working in South Korea, and his girlfriend Erin both made the trip to be with the family on this special day. It was brilliant to see them both looking so well, despite all the travelling they had had to do.
In May we attended my nephew, Patrick’s 40th birthday party. Next week, my niece, Amanda, brings her third child, Nathan, to England from Chicago, where the family live at present. They will stay with Julian, my nephew, near Alton in the South of England. Most of the family will attend Nathan’s Christening. So we have another chance for a big get together of the Spencer Clan. In July, we sail (on a ferry) to the Isle of Man for Albert’s 60th birthday party. This should give us a chance to catch up on Kathy’s family (as well as at the wedding), as Al is her brother-in-law.
Oh yes, Kathy started working last Monday (1st June). I think she would have preferred to be sailing in the Caribbean! So all is going well for us and we hope the same is true for you too.
Sunday, 3 May 2009
Home
We left our flat in Trinidad at 0330 on Wednesday and arrived home in Wrightington at 1330 on Thursday. Many thanks to Rob Grew, who picked us up from Manchester airport. There was a five-hour time reduction so it was a little shorter than it appears. We had a 9 hour stop over in Barbados and we were treated most kindly by Evelyn Brown, who allowed us to stay in an air conditioned lecture room, rather than outside on metal seats. All the transport was good, although we only managed one hour of sleep on the Virgin long haul.
Our house and cars, which had been looked after by our neighbours, Ruth and Frank, and the garden, which had been managed by Sue, were wonderful. It really was as if we had just stepped out. There was no dust, no cobwebs and with flowers on the table, bread, butter and milk in the kitchen, we really did feel very lucky to have such cosseting.
On the Friday evening as Kathy and I sat in front of a roaring coal fire, we discussed how unreal the trip seemed to be. Could it all have been a dream and Sal Darago was now attached to the pontoon at Hesketh Bank in Lancashire? It was exactly like the second day at work after a holiday, when the holiday is fading into memory and, well, it is life as normal.
Emily arrived shortly afterwards and our attention turned to WEDDINGS. Well one in particular. Oh, she also brought our mail for 9 months. Quite a pile.
As I look out of the front bedroom window across the beautiful, green, Lancashire countryside, I can’t help thinking how lucky we are to live in such a wonderful country and to have had such a magical sailing adventure.
Our house and cars, which had been looked after by our neighbours, Ruth and Frank, and the garden, which had been managed by Sue, were wonderful. It really was as if we had just stepped out. There was no dust, no cobwebs and with flowers on the table, bread, butter and milk in the kitchen, we really did feel very lucky to have such cosseting.
On the Friday evening as Kathy and I sat in front of a roaring coal fire, we discussed how unreal the trip seemed to be. Could it all have been a dream and Sal Darago was now attached to the pontoon at Hesketh Bank in Lancashire? It was exactly like the second day at work after a holiday, when the holiday is fading into memory and, well, it is life as normal.
Emily arrived shortly afterwards and our attention turned to WEDDINGS. Well one in particular. Oh, she also brought our mail for 9 months. Quite a pile.
As I look out of the front bedroom window across the beautiful, green, Lancashire countryside, I can’t help thinking how lucky we are to live in such a wonderful country and to have had such a magical sailing adventure.
Wednesday, 29 April 2009
Home Thoughts From Abroad
Sal Darago was lifted out on Monday 20 April and was moved to her new home by a very smart travel lift.
Kathy and Jeremy went to live in a basic, but spotless apartment on the marina site. Fortunately it was a short walk from the apartment to SD and work could go on apace. The link for the computer was weak at the flat, but Kathy had some success.
All the fenders were washed, the keels ground and repainted three times with Primocon. Almost all of the jobs were completed, Custom and Immigration visited, bills paid and now we wait for the booked taxi which will take us to Port of Spain airport on Wednesday morning at 0330. We hope to be home on Thursday afternoon at about 1500.
Thank you all for your support.
“O, to be in England now that April 's there,
And whoever wakes in England
Sees, some morning, unaware,
That the lowest boughs and the brushwood sheaf
Round the elm-tree bole are in tiny leaf,
While the chaffinch sings on the orchard bough
In England—now!”
Home Thoughts from Abroad by Robert Browning, 1845 Northern Italy.
Sunday, 26 April 2009
Photos from Trinidad and Tobago
Blue Water Inn, Anse Bateau, Tobago
Approaching Trinidad
Chaguaramus, Trinidad. Power Boats in background
Sunday, 19 April 2009
Our Final Port
We left Buccoo bay on Saturday and met a floating pirogue and an upside down one. We offered assistance, but they declined our help except that they wanted a bucket. We gave them our red one. Later we anchored in Great Cortland Bay near the town of Plymouth. We walked ashore, encountered beggars, a British school boy cricket team from Northampton and we strolled around yet another fort – this time Fort James.
The following day we anchored a short way further NE in Englishman’s Bay. This was a delightful, big bay with a large beach and little in the way of development. There was a discrete café in one corner. We dinghied ashore and managed to land through the surf without incident. We met Eileen and Phil from Rotherham and had a stroll along the beach and chatted. Launching the dinghy to return to the boat was an altogether different affair. Kathy had barely sat on the dinghy seat when a huge roller displaced her and threw her into the boiling, pebble-filled briny. Fortunately, she was only bruised and dazed. Later we watched the local fishermen using a huge seine net to trap a very large number of fish at almost the exact place of the accident. It was a wonderful anchorage and Jeremy spent much time in the water dislodging animal, vegetable and minerals from the hull.
On Monday, a few more miles and we were in Parlatuvier Bay with 16 pirogues and a trawler. Both the trawler and SD dragged anchors and had to reset them. This village had a couple of good shops, a veg stall and a waterfall. In the afternoon we always try to snorkel to cool off and wash. The reef here was great and just as we were returning to SD Jeremy saw a large sting ray. Kathy did not see it, but eventually Jeremy brought her in its direction. It saw us as we saw it. It was six feet across and brilliant and a little scary. Happily it accelerated out to sea leaving us awestruck.
On Tuesday we arrived at Charlotteville (second town of the island). This was most pleasant, a comfortable anchorage. We had to go to Customs and Immigration again, which was not too painful. Across the road was an up-to-date library; however, the restrictions on the use of the computers were draconian. While snorkelling we met a French couple on holiday; he was a lifeguard in Guyana. We then bumped into Glen canoeing. He came to the boat later with two boys. He was chuffed to be invited on board as he is hoping to buy a yacht and cruise the Caribbean. The next day rained pretty well all day. We collected 20 gallons, most of it drinking water and Jeremy washed clothes. Both of us used the fishing rods and within twenty minutes we had four beauties. These were consumed at supper. Jeremy had a go at mending a dripping window which had developed a leak during the day.
On Maundy Thursday we were to leave Charlotteville. We arrived at customs at 0810 and left Immigration at 1020. We left to sail around the North of Tobago. As we cleared the headland, the full force of the Atlantic hit us (on the nose) with 30 knots of wind and some big waves. Sal Darago dashed them aside with little consideration for her human cargo. The anchor dropped in a bay called Anse Bateau at 1415. Glen and his boys turned up again having been on an excursion. This exclusive private resort is protected by many reefs and Little Tobago island, but they were not doing the job fully and SD rolled all night and snatched at her anchor. In the morning we walked along a wide, grassy road for about two miles to a more northerly bay. We heard and saw raucous parrots calling “pieces of eight” (Kathy disagrees with this interpretation). On arrival at the head of the large bay we saw an elderly man chopping coconuts for his hens. He was Arthur Sandy, caretaker of the Cocoa Plantation (now defunct). We had quite a chat with him, including his experiences of the 1963 hurricane which hit Tobago, before returning in the heat of the day to SD. On Holy Saturday, we walked to Speyside and managed to buy some lamb for the first time for ages. Later we went ashore to the bar for two beers paying 34 $TT for the privilege (cost 12$TT in the shops) – still there was a good view of SD, the only yacht in the bay.
On Easter Sunday we left Anse Bateau (far from impressed) and went SW to King’s Bay. We anchored in a wooded corner quite a way from the head of the bay, alone. We had to put out an anchor at the stern to stop rolling, but it was effective. We tried fishing twice and on the second occasion Jeremy caught something but it took the hook, snapping the line. We had bacon for supper. On Easter Monday we walked ashore meeting a minister from Trinidad, who was on holiday, and saw a beautiful waterfall.
On Tuesday we returned to Scarborough and had to go to Customs and Immigration. Fortunately this only took just over an hour and we were able to do some shopping. The yacht Cariad was still in Scarborough with Wattie (not Waddie as previously thought) waiting for our return so he could buddy boat us to Trinidad. He was less than enthusiastic to hear that we intended to leave on Wednesday at 2000hrs. He is on his own and has not singlehanded so far.
At 1000 on Wednesday, as agreed the previous afternoon, we turned up at Immigration. We left for Customs at 1155; Wattie had not been seen by Immigration. By 1400 Wattie came to SD and said he was not coming. His fisherman friend, Terry, had said it was very rough out. Kathy and Jeremy had a pleasant mince supper with Wattie on SD. Earlier Jeremy and Wattie had moved Cariad closer in, out of the swell. At 2000 Sal Darago cleared Scarborough harbour and it was rough for about four hours. After that the wind died down and the engine had to be turned on (no laughing, Ben). We passed through a most beautiful channel called Bocas del Draco and arrived in Chaguaramus, our final destination from Hesketh Bank.
We went for a little motor to Scotland Bay yesterday, but most of our time here has been spent in offices and touring the boatyards and businesses trying to get the lie of the land. It is a big operation, situated in a heavily wooded bay with islands just off. Most picturesque, but a port and very brightly lit at night.
Tomorrow Sal Darago will be lifted out of the water and the mammoth task of preparing her to be left for six months begins. We also have one or two repairs to be done – some osmosis in the rudder, a new hot water tank and a new spinnaker pole come most readily to mind and, of course, the journey home. We left Hesketh Bank on 23/07/08. The log reading was 5112. Today it reads 11122, so that’s just 6010 miles under her twin keels. Apart from the above repairs, she has not given us any trouble, which isn’t bad for a thirty four year old yacht.
The following day we anchored a short way further NE in Englishman’s Bay. This was a delightful, big bay with a large beach and little in the way of development. There was a discrete café in one corner. We dinghied ashore and managed to land through the surf without incident. We met Eileen and Phil from Rotherham and had a stroll along the beach and chatted. Launching the dinghy to return to the boat was an altogether different affair. Kathy had barely sat on the dinghy seat when a huge roller displaced her and threw her into the boiling, pebble-filled briny. Fortunately, she was only bruised and dazed. Later we watched the local fishermen using a huge seine net to trap a very large number of fish at almost the exact place of the accident. It was a wonderful anchorage and Jeremy spent much time in the water dislodging animal, vegetable and minerals from the hull.
On Monday, a few more miles and we were in Parlatuvier Bay with 16 pirogues and a trawler. Both the trawler and SD dragged anchors and had to reset them. This village had a couple of good shops, a veg stall and a waterfall. In the afternoon we always try to snorkel to cool off and wash. The reef here was great and just as we were returning to SD Jeremy saw a large sting ray. Kathy did not see it, but eventually Jeremy brought her in its direction. It saw us as we saw it. It was six feet across and brilliant and a little scary. Happily it accelerated out to sea leaving us awestruck.
On Tuesday we arrived at Charlotteville (second town of the island). This was most pleasant, a comfortable anchorage. We had to go to Customs and Immigration again, which was not too painful. Across the road was an up-to-date library; however, the restrictions on the use of the computers were draconian. While snorkelling we met a French couple on holiday; he was a lifeguard in Guyana. We then bumped into Glen canoeing. He came to the boat later with two boys. He was chuffed to be invited on board as he is hoping to buy a yacht and cruise the Caribbean. The next day rained pretty well all day. We collected 20 gallons, most of it drinking water and Jeremy washed clothes. Both of us used the fishing rods and within twenty minutes we had four beauties. These were consumed at supper. Jeremy had a go at mending a dripping window which had developed a leak during the day.
On Maundy Thursday we were to leave Charlotteville. We arrived at customs at 0810 and left Immigration at 1020. We left to sail around the North of Tobago. As we cleared the headland, the full force of the Atlantic hit us (on the nose) with 30 knots of wind and some big waves. Sal Darago dashed them aside with little consideration for her human cargo. The anchor dropped in a bay called Anse Bateau at 1415. Glen and his boys turned up again having been on an excursion. This exclusive private resort is protected by many reefs and Little Tobago island, but they were not doing the job fully and SD rolled all night and snatched at her anchor. In the morning we walked along a wide, grassy road for about two miles to a more northerly bay. We heard and saw raucous parrots calling “pieces of eight” (Kathy disagrees with this interpretation). On arrival at the head of the large bay we saw an elderly man chopping coconuts for his hens. He was Arthur Sandy, caretaker of the Cocoa Plantation (now defunct). We had quite a chat with him, including his experiences of the 1963 hurricane which hit Tobago, before returning in the heat of the day to SD. On Holy Saturday, we walked to Speyside and managed to buy some lamb for the first time for ages. Later we went ashore to the bar for two beers paying 34 $TT for the privilege (cost 12$TT in the shops) – still there was a good view of SD, the only yacht in the bay.
On Easter Sunday we left Anse Bateau (far from impressed) and went SW to King’s Bay. We anchored in a wooded corner quite a way from the head of the bay, alone. We had to put out an anchor at the stern to stop rolling, but it was effective. We tried fishing twice and on the second occasion Jeremy caught something but it took the hook, snapping the line. We had bacon for supper. On Easter Monday we walked ashore meeting a minister from Trinidad, who was on holiday, and saw a beautiful waterfall.
On Tuesday we returned to Scarborough and had to go to Customs and Immigration. Fortunately this only took just over an hour and we were able to do some shopping. The yacht Cariad was still in Scarborough with Wattie (not Waddie as previously thought) waiting for our return so he could buddy boat us to Trinidad. He was less than enthusiastic to hear that we intended to leave on Wednesday at 2000hrs. He is on his own and has not singlehanded so far.
At 1000 on Wednesday, as agreed the previous afternoon, we turned up at Immigration. We left for Customs at 1155; Wattie had not been seen by Immigration. By 1400 Wattie came to SD and said he was not coming. His fisherman friend, Terry, had said it was very rough out. Kathy and Jeremy had a pleasant mince supper with Wattie on SD. Earlier Jeremy and Wattie had moved Cariad closer in, out of the swell. At 2000 Sal Darago cleared Scarborough harbour and it was rough for about four hours. After that the wind died down and the engine had to be turned on (no laughing, Ben). We passed through a most beautiful channel called Bocas del Draco and arrived in Chaguaramus, our final destination from Hesketh Bank.
We went for a little motor to Scotland Bay yesterday, but most of our time here has been spent in offices and touring the boatyards and businesses trying to get the lie of the land. It is a big operation, situated in a heavily wooded bay with islands just off. Most picturesque, but a port and very brightly lit at night.
Tomorrow Sal Darago will be lifted out of the water and the mammoth task of preparing her to be left for six months begins. We also have one or two repairs to be done – some osmosis in the rudder, a new hot water tank and a new spinnaker pole come most readily to mind and, of course, the journey home. We left Hesketh Bank on 23/07/08. The log reading was 5112. Today it reads 11122, so that’s just 6010 miles under her twin keels. Apart from the above repairs, she has not given us any trouble, which isn’t bad for a thirty four year old yacht.
Tuesday, 14 April 2009
Photos
Hurricane Hole, Grenada
Waterpump seal(bust) bad design which could cost a new engine!
St David's, Grenada
A palm telecommunications tree
Fort King George, Tobago... mind it's a bigun.Thursday, 9 April 2009
Tobago at last!
One hour later, the original water pump, which we had repaired, was back in place and working well. We weighed anchor about 3.30pm and headed out to sea against the wind and the current as Tobago lies 87 miles to windward.
We went due west for 10 miles and thanks to a NE wind we could fly our mainsail and a tiny bit of genoa, but we kept the engine going as well. We were then in a good position for a beam reach, under reefed genoa and mainsail, all the way to the SE end of Tobago. Sal Darago bowled along at 6.5 knots. We had to slow down as we needed to approach the shoal patch off Tobago in daylight, so Jeremy hove to and I went below for a sleep. When I heard the mainsail gybe hard and the contents of the fridge empty out on to the floor, I knew something was wrong. Jeremy had just turned 180 degrees to avoid a collision with a ship.
Once the ship was safely past us it was my turn on the helm for 3 hours and we still needed to go slowly. I chose to furl the genoa and go at 4 knots under mainsail. I took a Stugeron as I was feeling a bit queasy and an hour later I was wretching in the sink. I felt much better afterwards. The sky began to lighten; my watch came to an end and I was glad to lie down for a while. As it turned out, there was a wide channel between Tobago and the unlit shoal patch which we could have safely negotiated in the dark, but we were following the advice given in the cruising guide.
The next 3 hours were directly into the wind and against the current, so we were relieved when Scarborough, the main town of Tobago, came into view. Our troubles were not over yet. When we anchored we were too close to another yacht and when Jeremy tried to lift the anchor it was fouled round some rusty, heavy chain. After much struggling with lines and boathook, he managed to release our anchor and we found another spot and dropped it without incident.
We had a late breakfast, collected our papers and passports and took the dinghy ashore to Immigration. A surly receptionist gave Jeremy the forms that needed to be filled in and we were told to take a seat in the crowded waiting room. At least it was air conditioned! Jeremy went to ask the receptionist if 4 copies of the forms needed to be filled in and she said, “Yes”. She didn’t mention the carbon paper that was on the desk, which we saw after we’d written the same information 4 times on 2 sets of forms! After an hour, we were called to see the Immigration Officer, who filled in another form and scanned our passports on his computer. He was very pleasant and gave us the form we needed in order to go to Charlottesville, which is in the north of Tobago. Normally, you have to go back to Scarborough Immigration and to Customs on the day of departure. Customs is a short walk away and we were admitted to the office by a man with his feet up on the desk watching television! He looked at our papers from Immigration, stamped them and wrote something, but he refused to amend the form so we could leave for Charlottesville without return to his office. He really couldn’t get rid of us fast enough.
We went to the bank, well 3 banks actually, and all of them refused my debit card transaction. Thank goodness we had the money from “Isle Escape” or we would not have been able to pay the navigation fees (50TT$) at Customs or buy groceries from the supermarket.
We stayed in Scarborough for 4 nights. One yacht had been there for a month after crossing the Atlantic from the Canaries and two more came in, having done likewise. “Carriad” from New Zealand had taken on two crew in Las Palmas and the skipper and one of the crew had argued all the way across. Consequently, both crew left the boat as soon as they had cleared Immigration and Customs. The skipper, Waddy, who is 73, became friendly with us and we might be “buddy boating” to Trinidad together.
Whilst in Scarborough, we climbed up to Fort King George, where there were 16 British cannons and took photographs of the spectacular views. On another day, we went to the Botanical Gardens, which were well kept, but most of the signs giving information were blank. We met a local woman, Leandre, and chatted for ages. She gave us her business card and offered to take us turtle watching in Trinidad. The gardens began to fill with cruise ship tourists and we made our way to the supermarket, which was closed, because it was Spiritual Baptists’ Liberation Day, a public holiday.
After clearing Customs on Tuesday morning and buying some supplies, our next port of call was Store Bay. We spent two nights there; had our laundry done in the world’s first Internet café laundry and filled our tanks with water. The laundry was good value at 49.95TT$ but the water was the most expensive so far at 100TT$ for 20 gallons (50p a gallon for tap water). We had to take the dinghy through reefs to a dive centre, land on the beach, walk up to the tap and fill our containers. Today, we motored round the edge of Buccoo Reef and anchored in Buccoo Bay. We’ve been on a marathon dinghy trip across the reef to a lagoon and walked on another palm fringed, white sand beach. We now have a stern anchor out to keep us into the swell and we’re watching the pelicans and black headed gulls diving for fish.
We went due west for 10 miles and thanks to a NE wind we could fly our mainsail and a tiny bit of genoa, but we kept the engine going as well. We were then in a good position for a beam reach, under reefed genoa and mainsail, all the way to the SE end of Tobago. Sal Darago bowled along at 6.5 knots. We had to slow down as we needed to approach the shoal patch off Tobago in daylight, so Jeremy hove to and I went below for a sleep. When I heard the mainsail gybe hard and the contents of the fridge empty out on to the floor, I knew something was wrong. Jeremy had just turned 180 degrees to avoid a collision with a ship.
Once the ship was safely past us it was my turn on the helm for 3 hours and we still needed to go slowly. I chose to furl the genoa and go at 4 knots under mainsail. I took a Stugeron as I was feeling a bit queasy and an hour later I was wretching in the sink. I felt much better afterwards. The sky began to lighten; my watch came to an end and I was glad to lie down for a while. As it turned out, there was a wide channel between Tobago and the unlit shoal patch which we could have safely negotiated in the dark, but we were following the advice given in the cruising guide.
The next 3 hours were directly into the wind and against the current, so we were relieved when Scarborough, the main town of Tobago, came into view. Our troubles were not over yet. When we anchored we were too close to another yacht and when Jeremy tried to lift the anchor it was fouled round some rusty, heavy chain. After much struggling with lines and boathook, he managed to release our anchor and we found another spot and dropped it without incident.
We had a late breakfast, collected our papers and passports and took the dinghy ashore to Immigration. A surly receptionist gave Jeremy the forms that needed to be filled in and we were told to take a seat in the crowded waiting room. At least it was air conditioned! Jeremy went to ask the receptionist if 4 copies of the forms needed to be filled in and she said, “Yes”. She didn’t mention the carbon paper that was on the desk, which we saw after we’d written the same information 4 times on 2 sets of forms! After an hour, we were called to see the Immigration Officer, who filled in another form and scanned our passports on his computer. He was very pleasant and gave us the form we needed in order to go to Charlottesville, which is in the north of Tobago. Normally, you have to go back to Scarborough Immigration and to Customs on the day of departure. Customs is a short walk away and we were admitted to the office by a man with his feet up on the desk watching television! He looked at our papers from Immigration, stamped them and wrote something, but he refused to amend the form so we could leave for Charlottesville without return to his office. He really couldn’t get rid of us fast enough.
We went to the bank, well 3 banks actually, and all of them refused my debit card transaction. Thank goodness we had the money from “Isle Escape” or we would not have been able to pay the navigation fees (50TT$) at Customs or buy groceries from the supermarket.
We stayed in Scarborough for 4 nights. One yacht had been there for a month after crossing the Atlantic from the Canaries and two more came in, having done likewise. “Carriad” from New Zealand had taken on two crew in Las Palmas and the skipper and one of the crew had argued all the way across. Consequently, both crew left the boat as soon as they had cleared Immigration and Customs. The skipper, Waddy, who is 73, became friendly with us and we might be “buddy boating” to Trinidad together.
Whilst in Scarborough, we climbed up to Fort King George, where there were 16 British cannons and took photographs of the spectacular views. On another day, we went to the Botanical Gardens, which were well kept, but most of the signs giving information were blank. We met a local woman, Leandre, and chatted for ages. She gave us her business card and offered to take us turtle watching in Trinidad. The gardens began to fill with cruise ship tourists and we made our way to the supermarket, which was closed, because it was Spiritual Baptists’ Liberation Day, a public holiday.
After clearing Customs on Tuesday morning and buying some supplies, our next port of call was Store Bay. We spent two nights there; had our laundry done in the world’s first Internet café laundry and filled our tanks with water. The laundry was good value at 49.95TT$ but the water was the most expensive so far at 100TT$ for 20 gallons (50p a gallon for tap water). We had to take the dinghy through reefs to a dive centre, land on the beach, walk up to the tap and fill our containers. Today, we motored round the edge of Buccoo Reef and anchored in Buccoo Bay. We’ve been on a marathon dinghy trip across the reef to a lagoon and walked on another palm fringed, white sand beach. We now have a stern anchor out to keep us into the swell and we’re watching the pelicans and black headed gulls diving for fish.
Tobago
We stayed anchored off Whisper Cove Marina, Woburn, for a week. One day we caught the bus to St George’s bus terminal and then boarded another one for the 45 minute journey to Grenville on the windward side of Grenada. The road went right across the island, through the rain forest interior and over the mountains before descending to the non-tourist town of Grenville. It was good to see how the local people go about their everyday lives. Jeremy wanted to come here on the boat, but I was not keen as the harbour is surrounded by reefs, has many shallow patches and the wind and current would set us on to the reefs. I thought my doubts were justified when I saw the entrance to the harbour, but Jeremy maintained it was “a piece of cake”. We had lunch of local Creole food at a café called the Melting Pot. I was unsure what to choose, but the food turned out to be good and inexpensive. Many local people went there for lunch. Later, we shopped at the supermarket beneath the restaurant, bought fresh fruit and veg from vendors and caught the bus which went down the windward side of the island. The driver said he would drop us off at the cliffs, which sounded a bit ominous, but turned out to be a place where 5 roads met. We soon caught the bus to Woburn from the cliffs.
There had been an annoying whining noise over the bay for two days and, at last, we discovered its cause – a kite. We couldn’t see the string but we could see the kite. Apparently, it’s an Easter pastime in Grenada.
By now we were listening to the Grenada Cruisers’ Net everyday and we heard there was to be a boat jumble at Whisper Cove. We went along and Jeremy bought a catapult and some fish hooks. We stayed for the BBQ lunch and met one of the volunteer net controllers, Inga, a Danish couple, Nonne and Jogen, from “Luna” last seen at Bequia and a Canadian, Brian, from “Magique”. The next day, Mothering Sunday, we took the dinghy to Hog Island and joined in the Sunday afternoon BBQ held on the beach in the shade of the trees. We promised Inga we would introduce ourselves on the Net and Jeremy did this the next day. We heard that a yacht near us, “Isle Escape” had 600 Trinidad and Tobago dollars to exchange so we went over and gave the guy 100US$. He gave us a carrier bag of leaflets, maps, a cruising guide and a boaters’ directory all related to Trinidad and Tobago as well as the TT$. We were a little disturbed to learn he’s not going back to T&T because of the level of crime. We’re going there next!
We left Clarke’s Court Bay on 24th March and motored through the reefs to the next bay called La Phare Bleu, which has an upmarket marina where the office and facilities are in an old, refurbished, Swedish lightship. We bought a gallon of petrol for the outboard and a loaf of bread. Bread normally costs $4, but here they charged $7. The bilge alarm went off just before we went ashore. The water pump on the engine was leaking sea water and would have to be replaced. Jeremy pumped the bilges and we weighed anchor and steered out through the reefs, which were marked with buoys. We went to Egemont Bay, where there is a hurricane hole. It was almost unnerving to be perfectly still with no wind or swell and a good place for Jeremy to replace the water pump. The leak was caused by a rusty spring clip, which had broken. This is an infuriating design fault in a pump which costs £150+. Later, we enjoyed snorkelling near the mangroves and Jeremy scrubbed Sal Darago’s bottom while I made supper.
We thought we might try to find Fort Jeudy the next day, but I wasn’t feeling too good having been awake in the night with pains in my chest and stomach. The anchorage in the outer bay was very deep so we kept going to St David’s Bay, the last anchorage on the SE coast of Grenada. We had a look round ashore and later took the dinghy to a reef and snorkelled for a while. We both came out bleeding having cut ourselves on barnacles. The next morning we went ashore and bought the most expensive loaf of bread (10EC$) at a resort restaurant. Next stop was Customs and Immigration so that we could clear out of Grenada. They’re supposed to be there at 8.00am, but they weren’t. A man told us they might be there at 9.00 or 10.00. We went back at 10.30 and they still weren’t there. We asked at the boatyard office if Customs and Immigration were coming today and they kindly rang them. We were told they were coming after lunch, probably about 1.30pm. At 12 noon we went ashore for the third time to have lunch in the beach bar. The same man as before saw us and said, “They’re over there.” Sure enough, two officers were looking at a boat so we went over and, after a short wait, we were seen and Jeremy filled in the required paperwork for the Customs Officer. Unfortunately, the Immigration Officer had disappeared so we had to leave all our documents, go and have our lunch and return later. This we duly did and….finally…..we were cleared by Immigration and we could leave.
Sal Darago was not ready to leave. I started the engine as Jeremy started winching up the anchor. There was no water coming out of the exhaust pipe, which meant the water pump was not working.
There had been an annoying whining noise over the bay for two days and, at last, we discovered its cause – a kite. We couldn’t see the string but we could see the kite. Apparently, it’s an Easter pastime in Grenada.
By now we were listening to the Grenada Cruisers’ Net everyday and we heard there was to be a boat jumble at Whisper Cove. We went along and Jeremy bought a catapult and some fish hooks. We stayed for the BBQ lunch and met one of the volunteer net controllers, Inga, a Danish couple, Nonne and Jogen, from “Luna” last seen at Bequia and a Canadian, Brian, from “Magique”. The next day, Mothering Sunday, we took the dinghy to Hog Island and joined in the Sunday afternoon BBQ held on the beach in the shade of the trees. We promised Inga we would introduce ourselves on the Net and Jeremy did this the next day. We heard that a yacht near us, “Isle Escape” had 600 Trinidad and Tobago dollars to exchange so we went over and gave the guy 100US$. He gave us a carrier bag of leaflets, maps, a cruising guide and a boaters’ directory all related to Trinidad and Tobago as well as the TT$. We were a little disturbed to learn he’s not going back to T&T because of the level of crime. We’re going there next!
We left Clarke’s Court Bay on 24th March and motored through the reefs to the next bay called La Phare Bleu, which has an upmarket marina where the office and facilities are in an old, refurbished, Swedish lightship. We bought a gallon of petrol for the outboard and a loaf of bread. Bread normally costs $4, but here they charged $7. The bilge alarm went off just before we went ashore. The water pump on the engine was leaking sea water and would have to be replaced. Jeremy pumped the bilges and we weighed anchor and steered out through the reefs, which were marked with buoys. We went to Egemont Bay, where there is a hurricane hole. It was almost unnerving to be perfectly still with no wind or swell and a good place for Jeremy to replace the water pump. The leak was caused by a rusty spring clip, which had broken. This is an infuriating design fault in a pump which costs £150+. Later, we enjoyed snorkelling near the mangroves and Jeremy scrubbed Sal Darago’s bottom while I made supper.
We thought we might try to find Fort Jeudy the next day, but I wasn’t feeling too good having been awake in the night with pains in my chest and stomach. The anchorage in the outer bay was very deep so we kept going to St David’s Bay, the last anchorage on the SE coast of Grenada. We had a look round ashore and later took the dinghy to a reef and snorkelled for a while. We both came out bleeding having cut ourselves on barnacles. The next morning we went ashore and bought the most expensive loaf of bread (10EC$) at a resort restaurant. Next stop was Customs and Immigration so that we could clear out of Grenada. They’re supposed to be there at 8.00am, but they weren’t. A man told us they might be there at 9.00 or 10.00. We went back at 10.30 and they still weren’t there. We asked at the boatyard office if Customs and Immigration were coming today and they kindly rang them. We were told they were coming after lunch, probably about 1.30pm. At 12 noon we went ashore for the third time to have lunch in the beach bar. The same man as before saw us and said, “They’re over there.” Sure enough, two officers were looking at a boat so we went over and, after a short wait, we were seen and Jeremy filled in the required paperwork for the Customs Officer. Unfortunately, the Immigration Officer had disappeared so we had to leave all our documents, go and have our lunch and return later. This we duly did and….finally…..we were cleared by Immigration and we could leave.
Sal Darago was not ready to leave. I started the engine as Jeremy started winching up the anchor. There was no water coming out of the exhaust pipe, which meant the water pump was not working.
Friday, 20 March 2009
Photos Grenada 1
Pat and Al Denham's new home?
St George's Fort
Beach at Hog Island 
More evidence of hurricane damage at Hog Island anchoragePhotos Grenada 2
Calivigny, Private, Exclusive, Island Resort
Calivigny work boat
Whisper Cove Marina
Super Yacht SELENE. For hire 200,000 Euros per week Wednesday, 18 March 2009
Grenada Reports
It was quite a treat to have a yacht club so near and most of the facilities were inexpensive so the washing was done, we had showers, we disposed of our rubbish and we filled up with drinking water. There was a supermarket nearby with its own dinghy dock and a chandlers. Civilisation indeed!
Much of St Georges (the capital of Grenada) has been rebuilt since hurricane Ivan destroyed it in 2004. There are 3 churches at the top of a hill that are still without roofs. We stood in the shell of the Anglican church and looked up at the sky. It was as though a bomb had hit it and we began to have some understanding about what it must have been like. Horrendous is not really a strong enough word. We walked through a tunnel on another visit to town, which had no footpath or barrier and the traffic rushed by just inches away from us. After climbing many steep steps we reached the hospital and after following a steep road upwards we reached St George’s Fort. The police headquarters are housed here, but visitors are allowed to wander around the old fort viewing the sights but we didn’t expect to see the young man wearing only a towel retrieving his boxers from the washing line. He didn’t expect to see us either and awkward greetings were exchanged. We turned our attention to the English cannons still clearly numbered and overlooking the harbour after two centuries. As well as keeping out the French, the fort was the place where the Communist leader, Maurice Bishop, was executed along with half his cabinet. We stood in the courtyard and saw there was no easy escape. Some of his followers threw themselves off the sheer cliff to avoid capture. There is no safety rail even today and we could wander right up to the edge. Back at sea level, we spent some time in the Grenada Museum, which had once been a women’s prison, and now outlined the history of the island.
The next day we left the lagoon at St Georges and carefully navigated our way through the extensive shoal patches to True Blue Bay on the south coast. We went ashore the following day looking for a shop and a hairdressers. The shop had next to nothing in it and the hairdressers was closed so we walked to Prickly Bay, chatted to someone who had bought a Westerly Corsair which had been damaged in the hurricane and had a look in the large chandlers. We caught a bus to the tourist area of Grand Anse and stocked up at a large supermarket. The return bus kindly took us right back to True Blue Bay, but the fare was triple the cost of the outward journey! After lunch, we weighed anchor and motored round the corner to see Prickly Bay from seaward. It was too crowded for us - the Solent of Grenada - so we carried on to the next anchorage, Mount Harman Bay. We spent 3 quiet nights here, but there was a drawback. Martin’s Marina at the head of the bay charged 10$EC per day to tie up your dinghy so we didn’t go ashore. As we were anchored off a mangrove swamp the snorkelling was pretty poor as well.
By now we were running short of supplies so we weighed the anchor and motored through the many reefs to Clarkes Court Bay and anchored near a village called Woburn, which has a small yacht club called Whisper Cove. On the way we stopped for lunch at Hog Island, which has a well protected anchorage and a small beach. We explored by dinghy and went ashore, followed a rough path through the trees and came out on a recently made dirt road. Many signs seemed to indicate that plots of land had been earmarked for development and a bridge had been built, but was now closed, linking Hog Island with the mainland. Sadly, another piece of wilderness is to be transformed into a resort, but not in the current economic climate, it seems.
The next morning we chained the dinghy to the village dock and caught the bus to St Georges. Twenty of us squeezed into the minibus and soon we were looking for a hairdressers and being mistaken for cruise ship passengers. I eventually got my hair cut by a young barber as two ladies’ hairdressers were closed and two others would not or could not cut it. I now look a bit like a boy, but at least it feels tidier. We shopped at a supermarket next to the bus station and bought fresh produce at the market. Today we have done our washing at the yacht club and filled up with water. The snorkelling in this bay has been better and we have seen numerous reef fish and corals. Just before dark, Jeremy was recognised by a couple in a dinghy from a Nicholson 35 footer. They had had an hours conversation in Rubicon Marina, Lanzarote in October, 2008. No chance for robbing banks then!
Much of St Georges (the capital of Grenada) has been rebuilt since hurricane Ivan destroyed it in 2004. There are 3 churches at the top of a hill that are still without roofs. We stood in the shell of the Anglican church and looked up at the sky. It was as though a bomb had hit it and we began to have some understanding about what it must have been like. Horrendous is not really a strong enough word. We walked through a tunnel on another visit to town, which had no footpath or barrier and the traffic rushed by just inches away from us. After climbing many steep steps we reached the hospital and after following a steep road upwards we reached St George’s Fort. The police headquarters are housed here, but visitors are allowed to wander around the old fort viewing the sights but we didn’t expect to see the young man wearing only a towel retrieving his boxers from the washing line. He didn’t expect to see us either and awkward greetings were exchanged. We turned our attention to the English cannons still clearly numbered and overlooking the harbour after two centuries. As well as keeping out the French, the fort was the place where the Communist leader, Maurice Bishop, was executed along with half his cabinet. We stood in the courtyard and saw there was no easy escape. Some of his followers threw themselves off the sheer cliff to avoid capture. There is no safety rail even today and we could wander right up to the edge. Back at sea level, we spent some time in the Grenada Museum, which had once been a women’s prison, and now outlined the history of the island.
The next day we left the lagoon at St Georges and carefully navigated our way through the extensive shoal patches to True Blue Bay on the south coast. We went ashore the following day looking for a shop and a hairdressers. The shop had next to nothing in it and the hairdressers was closed so we walked to Prickly Bay, chatted to someone who had bought a Westerly Corsair which had been damaged in the hurricane and had a look in the large chandlers. We caught a bus to the tourist area of Grand Anse and stocked up at a large supermarket. The return bus kindly took us right back to True Blue Bay, but the fare was triple the cost of the outward journey! After lunch, we weighed anchor and motored round the corner to see Prickly Bay from seaward. It was too crowded for us - the Solent of Grenada - so we carried on to the next anchorage, Mount Harman Bay. We spent 3 quiet nights here, but there was a drawback. Martin’s Marina at the head of the bay charged 10$EC per day to tie up your dinghy so we didn’t go ashore. As we were anchored off a mangrove swamp the snorkelling was pretty poor as well.
By now we were running short of supplies so we weighed the anchor and motored through the many reefs to Clarkes Court Bay and anchored near a village called Woburn, which has a small yacht club called Whisper Cove. On the way we stopped for lunch at Hog Island, which has a well protected anchorage and a small beach. We explored by dinghy and went ashore, followed a rough path through the trees and came out on a recently made dirt road. Many signs seemed to indicate that plots of land had been earmarked for development and a bridge had been built, but was now closed, linking Hog Island with the mainland. Sadly, another piece of wilderness is to be transformed into a resort, but not in the current economic climate, it seems.
The next morning we chained the dinghy to the village dock and caught the bus to St Georges. Twenty of us squeezed into the minibus and soon we were looking for a hairdressers and being mistaken for cruise ship passengers. I eventually got my hair cut by a young barber as two ladies’ hairdressers were closed and two others would not or could not cut it. I now look a bit like a boy, but at least it feels tidier. We shopped at a supermarket next to the bus station and bought fresh produce at the market. Today we have done our washing at the yacht club and filled up with water. The snorkelling in this bay has been better and we have seen numerous reef fish and corals. Just before dark, Jeremy was recognised by a couple in a dinghy from a Nicholson 35 footer. They had had an hours conversation in Rubicon Marina, Lanzarote in October, 2008. No chance for robbing banks then!
Wednesday, 11 March 2009
Photos up to Grenada
No more compainin about not enuff pixures!
Sandy Island One where we spent two nights
Hillsborough, Carriacou
Butterfly
Sandy Island II, not a tenable anchorage
St George's Waterfront, Grenada.
Sandy Island One where we spent two nights
Hillsborough, Carriacou
Butterfly
Sandy Island II, not a tenable anchorage
St George's Waterfront, Grenada.
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