Still in Tenerife

We are coming to the end of 30th October as I write this. It’s Halloween tomorrow and a festival day here for All Saints Day on 1st November.
We spent two nights at Puerto Chico marina in Santa Cruz, Tenerife. The first night was very quiet and peaceful; the second night we had a loud disco at the adjacent night club until 4.00am!!

We left a few hours later in a gentle breeze. By lunchtime we had reefed the one sail we had up, the genoa, and by the afternoon we had a tiny storm gib size sail and a huge following sea. The barometer had fallen 7 millibars in 2 and a half hours! However, there were no other signs of a strong wind or storm – no clouds, no rain – a general forecast of moderate winds and a local forecast of light winds. We reached our anchorage at Bahia Abona to find it was untenable so we had to continue and look for somewhere else before it went dark. Our pilot book said there was good holding off a beach at Playa de las Tejitas so we anchored there in strong winds. The anchor held at the second attempt.

El Teide 3718 metres

We had a quick trip ashore in the dinghy the next morning and I was extra careful after my previous soaking. By lunchtime another hoolie was blowing but the anchor held firm. The next morning a big ship was coming straight for us but it anchored near some huge yellow mooring buoys and a small boat secured lines to the buoys. This was the tanker containing aviation fuel for the nearby airport which was put into a pipe they pulled up by crane from the seabed. We left them to it and called into Marina San Miguel where we booked in for two nights, 31st Oct and 1st Nov.

After a cup of tea and a chat on Avantyr, a Dutch yacht, we set off to explore the SW and W coast of Tenerife, ending up in the marina at Los Gigantes as there was nowhere comfortable or sheltered to anchor. There were only 6 other yachts in the marina and many power boats, probably because of the shallow 2 metre entrance and the warning in the pilot book about dangerous swell.


Our first night there was quiet and peaceful, my only complaint being the cold showers. We checked the weather forecast with the marina the next day and began to be a little concerned about the 25knots of NE wind mentioned. No-one expected a raging gale with winds up to 64knots. It was a terrifying noise as the wind swept down the cliffs and around the marina, ripping covers on boats and sending spray all around. Sleep was impossible. Jeremy put extra shore lines and springs on as we bounced and heeled on the pontoon. We were very fortunate to still be in one piece by morning and very pleased to be able to get out in strong, but much quieter winds, later that day. We had an uncomfortable journey to the marina at Las Galletas, back in the south, where we had to tie up stern to the pontoon and be held by lines from the seabed to the bow.

Tomorrow we hope to anchor again in Las Tejitas for lunch and then go to the marina at San Miguel for two nights. We can’t wait to see Emily and Ben on 1st November. They are joining us for a week.

Pathe News Lastest

Cliffs of NW Gran Canaria

A resort on S Gran Canaria
Not everyone lives in a three star apartment

Playa Antequera Tenerife - abandoned restaurant

The Beach at Playa Antequera

At last a seedy adult porn games shop`that allows us to use our memory stick. Love to all.

Tenerife

It’s now Thursday 23rd October and we are in a small marina called Puerto Chico near Santa Cruz, Tenerife, having been turned away from the Marina Tenerife as they have no berths left.
We were not very impressed with Grand Canaria as there was nowhere to anchor comfortably away from Las Palmas and most of the marinas were fully occupied. Thanks to the pilot book updates we knew a huge breakwater had been built near Bahia de Arinaga so we anchored there for the night. There was nothing there except a windfarm and some people fishing but we were visited by the civil guard who shone a spotlight on us, asked us some questions and said we could stay there one night. Our next stop was outside the full marina at Plasito Blanco. We passed huge holiday developments on the way. The anchorage was a bit bumpy but we were able to have a swim and snorkel. The next day we anchored outside the marina at Puerto Mogan, which is a small holiday resort and quite pleasant ashore. We shopped at the Spar supermarket and started to fill some containers with water from a tap on the pontoon. A Norwegian told us we could not have water as the tap was “his” and he had to pay for it. It seems that the water was metered. I managed to get one 5 litre bottle filled at the marina office and that was all we were allowed!
We left Puerto Mogan the next day and travelled up the west coast to Puerto de la Aldea. The dramatic cliffs and isolated beaches with a few tents or shacks on them were in complete contrast to the resorts just around the corner. We anchored close to a small harbour but the holding was not good so we soon had a stern anchor out as well. Strong gusts of wind funnelled down the hillside and each time the anchor dragged a bit. We relaid the stern anchor with some difficulty and went snorkelling on the many reefs. Later we went ashore to be told the nearest shop was 4 kilometres away and there was no water in the harbour. There was a pine wood with hosepipes attached to each tree and a huge number of picnic areas – oh and there was a helicopter landing pad complete with windsock but the village only had a handful of houses!
When we returned it was clear we would have to reanchor. I thought it would not be a good idea to spend the night there so we had supper, made some sandwiches, weighed both anchors and set off into the night with two reefs in the mainsail and the engine on. We arrived at Playa Antequera, Tenerife at 5.00 am the next morning navigating into the unlit, uninhabited bay by radar, GPS and laptop charts. There was an unlit ketch on anchor, which we avoided and dropped our own anchor into good holding.
The next day we explored the remains of a bar and restaurant with its own small harbour. I was thrown out of the dinghy by the surf Tom and Jerry style – full spreadeagle backwards. I was unhurt (although I have since found big bruises on the back of my knees) and we collapsed in laughter as I walked ashore wet through and covered in black sand, which found its way into my underwear! We were visited later by Stephan, from the ketch, Tamata. The following day we were invited aboard and met his wife, Simona and their delightful 4 year old daughter, Naphalie. Stephan was a very intense young man with strong views of the world but we enjoyed talking to him.
Today we travelled 5 miles to Puerto Chico, where we filled up with diesel and water, caught the bus into town and stocked up at a supermarket. Jeremy has done an oil change so we’re ready for the next 100 hours of motoring now!

Pictures mostly from Gran Canaria

Las Playitas
Mary, Las Palmas Cathedral
Morro Jable at night
View from Cathedral
Suffering!
Sorry these are not in the correct order, but you get what you pay for ;-)

A cafe that works at last!

Wednesday 15th October is the day on which I write this, sitting on anchor in Las Palmas, Gran Canaria.
We managed to get on line at last in the Library – Biblioteca - in Rosario and the following day, Friday 10.10, we set off down the coast of Fuertaventura. As we rounded the corner to go west, the wind died and became fluky. As we were in an “acceleration zone”, we had reduced the genoa by one third and the main was not being used. We were becalmed, but within a few seconds, we were hit by prolonged gusts of over 37 knots. Sal Darago accelerated and leant over – so far that her port side windows were being nicely washed. The decks on that side had disappeared under the water. Kathy had the presence of mind to suggest we let the sheet on the sail go, which I did and, after furling the genoa, we continued on engine to Las Playitas. The only damage was a torn eyelet on the spray dodger, which Kathy said had been completely submerged.
Las Playitas was an undeveloped village. Further along the bay there was the usual huge development, but walking around Las Playitas was very pleasant. We stayed there the night and then moved cautiously on to a harbour, Gran Tarajal, where it was possible to anchor. On entry, we could see the anchorage space had been taken up by a new marina with pontoons blocking the anchorage. As we were leaving, “Aventyr”, a Dutch yacht last seen in Arrecife, called us up and said we should stay as the Harbour Master was on holiday and there were no charges. We stayed. Here we gained access to the new Pilot notes by memory stick and met up with Dick Emery on “Moonshiner”, whom we had last seen in Porto Santo.
In the evening, Kathy and I went shopping and we decided to eat out (third time this trip). We went to the ?”Confederation of Fishermen’s Restaurant”? and decided to have fish as a main course. For starters I had cheese and tomatoes, which was very tasty. Kathy had mixed salad and was rather astonished to receive a huge plate of tuna, and salad – rather more than we would have for supper on SD. The main courses arrived. Kathy had conservatively chosen Langustinos and received a flat, frying pan of salt (about 2 centimetres thick) with twelve very large prawns (small lobsters) {in their shells} and a knife and fork. I had gone for the most expensive plate on the menu – a grilled selection of fish – largely because the only thing I could otherwise recognise (apart from Langustinos) was Dog Fish. My plate arrived with four small potatoes, a burnt offering of green pepper and several pieces of extremely well done fish including a fish head and two tails. We completed the meal.
The next day we left to travel 20 miles SW to Morro Jable. Here we anchored outside the breakwater for the night and left at 0600. Kathy dodged ships during her first watch, but by 1600 we were again at anchor in Las Palmas and later we completed the paperwork in the huge marina from which the famous “Atlantic Rally for Cruisers” ARC will set off in five weeks time. We met Henrique who asked to see our gas bottle at 0900 next morning, but expressed severe doubt that it could be filled due to its age (1974). This was a bottle we had received in exchange for an empty, new one in Crosshaven. Not counting the cost of two early mornings in a row, we met Henrique, who lives in a blue ex ambulance. He directed us to sit in his car and drove us away – who knew where. He showed us his button? where he was having Chemotherapy and the next day he was to go into hospital for major surgery. He duly found us a “new” full calor gas bottle and returned us to our dinghy. We wish him well as it looked as if we were going to be a gas bottle down without his help. Our troubles are only little ones.
Something has been eating me at night and its/ their bite is extremely itchy for three days afterwards. This came to a head when I was bitten 5 times. Kathy and I got to work making “fortress SD” with lots of mosquito netting. Unfortunately to get the net to stay on the front hatch, it was necessary to remove the two supports. Had I known that the nuts behind would fall off, I may not have removed the bolts. Anyhow it looks as if the struts’ removal is now permanent which was a bit of a mistake as the front hatch really needs supports. Last night I spent the evening making wooden supports for the front hatch. The net fits well now. I was only bitten once. And Yes, before you all suggest it, I was bathed in Deet.
Today we went Cathedral viewing. It was odd really as it had been built mostly in the late 19th century. There was much art but it was rather gory, maybe I’ll be able to publish some photos with the text instead of four weeks later. Kathy insisted on going up the tower (a fairly small affair with a lift!) and the view was good. I suppose with Durham one is spoiled and little lives up to expectations. Tomorrow we search for internet cafes and water that does not taste of Dettol. The weather has been warm, but manageable and there has been no rain since we left Gran Tarahal.

Caribbean Trip Itinerary

My efforts to copy a table into this blog have failed again. Here's a brief outline of our plans:

Until the first week in December we are in the Canaries visiting most of the islands. Grand Canaria is the next one.
Most of December will be spent crossing the Atlantic to Barbados.
January, February and March we hope to visit St Lucia, Grenada, the Grenadines and some smaller islands always making our way south to Tobago and Trinidad by April.
We return to the UK in May for Emily and Ben's wedding and I return to work on 1st June 2009.

Fuertaventura

Today is Wednesday 8th October. We are sitting out a force 7 in Puerto del Rosario, the capital of Fuertaventura. This port is said not to welcome yachts but it has a Disa gasworks nearby and our Calor gas bottle ran out the day we left Arrecife, Lanzarote, which is close to a Disa gasworks! C’est la vie!

On our second day in Arrecife, Jeremy thought his quest (and Emily’s) for banjo bolts for the engine was over. We walked the 1 or 2 miles to Puerto Naos and bought some bolts…but when we returned to the boat they were the wrong thread and had to be returned the next day. So, Emily, please keep looking! I had more luck and bought a snorkel mask so I am no longer slowly drowned as water does not seep into the new mask. Jeremy bought a small anchor for the dinghy so we can now anchor over a reef and swim with the fish rather than having to do a marathon swim from Sal Daraago to get to the reef in the first place. The only problem is getting back into the dinghy from the sea. Our fender steps float but once you get your foot in they disappear under the dinghy and you fall in the sea again. Jeremy says I need to do something about my upper body strength!! I think I need to do something about my knees as the first time I wore flippers, I nearly did them in as I was kicking too deeply.

It was great to hear from colleagues at work. Get better soon, Norma.

After Arrecife we had a day anchored off the beaches near Playa Blanca. Once again the snorkelling was good, this time over submarine caves. Some of the beaches were popular with naturists but we’re getting quite used to this now. However, naked rock climbing, which a number of men seemed to enjoy, was a bit different!

Our last night in Lanzarote was spent in Marina Rubicon, also near Playa Blanca. We needed to wash our bedding and our towels so we made good use of their laundry, electricity and water. The hot showers were luxurious. We stocked up for 3 days and the following morning we left for Isla de Lobos, which is close to Fuertaventura. Our pilot book said there was a lagoon with a bar of 1.2m. We have a depth of 1.8m but we thought we would have no trouble getting in at half tide. When our depth went down to 1m and we were over rock, Jeremy reversed quickly. We anchored in deeper water and explored by dinghy. As we could both stand up and it was now nearly high water, there was no chance of getting into the lagoon with Sal Darago.


We felt the anchorage was not too secure but the anchor held all night and the next morning we explored the island on foot following trails across the volcanic boulders in a moon like landscape. The only village was a shanty town of half built houses, tents and awnings but it had its own beach area and fishing pools. We returned to our boat just as the first tourist boat arrived and left after lunch leaving two tourist catamarans and a fishing party to enjoy the clear, blue water.


Since being here in Puerto del Rosario, we have checked in with the harbour master, who was friendly and happy for us to be anchored in the harbour and been sent to two places for gas. Jeremy carried the container in his rucksack up steep hills but no luck. At the second garage a very helpful woman got us a taxi and we went to the Disa gasworks. Unfortunately, they could not fill our type of bottle so we’ve spent 10 euros for nothing. We do have 2 and a half more gas bottles on board and the harbour master didn’t charge us anything so why should we complain? Perhaps we’ll get a refill in Grand Canaria.

Hasta luego amigos.

last pics

 Tourists Graciosa
 Fishing technique
 Guarda and fishing boat
 Castillo NAOS

more pics

 Cactus Kathy
 Carpet slippers
 Lurve cave
 Approaching Graciosa

pics

 Machico beach
 Madeira runway
2nd highest cliffs in the world
 Madeira valley

Lanzarote

As per usual we have had difficulty in reaching the internet. We have tried many times to “publish” photos, but had no success. This is because we were not able to use an internet café in Isla Graciosa.

We left the marina and went to a lovely bay beyond Playa Francesca (PF). Here Jeremy snorkelled and was amazed. Later we returned the short distance to PF where the holding for the anchor was good, but Jeremy squashed his third finger on his right hand while anchoring. Kathy swam ashore and back, followed by a shower on the stern. It was just as well we did return to PF for there were winds of over 20 knots at 0400 and ten boats left the anchorage before lunch. By the afternoon it was calm and hot. With only five boats in a large bay. Jeremy went snorkelling again and this time he managed to swim with a shoal of fish, see some amazing black sea urchins and many highly coloured and also striped fish – WoW!

On Friday 260908 we motored around the Island of Graciosa. (We needed to charge the batteries.) We anchored off a beach on the NW (using Simon’s charts on the Laptop). Here we both snorkelled, but the bottom was sand and uninteresting. This was Kathy’s first snorkel for many years. HOWEVER, the beach was popular with nudists and Jeremy was kept … busy in the galley (Ha Ha Ha adds Kathy). Kathy also feels it worthy of mention that there were four nude females fishing from the rocks. Despite being some way away, Jeremy’s new and amazing Panasonic Lumix DMC FZ18 was able to pick out the finer points of their casting technique.

For the next two days we went snorkelling morning and evening in PF as it had a variety of aquatic life and several interesting reefs on which to explore. We also had to return to Caleta del Sebo twice for supplies and water from the shower. The island was very small and between 10 and 5 it was invaded by boats from Lanzarote carrying tourists. Generally there was enough room for everyone. The only downside was the wake that the ferry left as it passed within a few metres of the anchored boats. The island gets no rain. But it rained lightly three times while we were there. The rain carried a fine, brown/red dust from Africa which settled on everything. In the port there were THREE supermercados, which all carried the same basic goods. All in all it was an unusual, volcanic, barren island with sandy beaches and good snorkelling.

On Monday 290908 we left Graciosa for Lanzarote. We sailed and motored down the coast in sunshine, stopping to anchor at Arrieta for lunch and continuing to Puerto Marmoles. Here we anchored off a busy container wharf so that Jeremy could “log” in with the Policia National. When he found their offices, it transpired they opened from 8 until 2. He returned to the boat where Kathy had cooked a delicious meatball supper (remember them Hal and Patrick?).

Next day Jeremy duly logged in and had the passports stamped for the first time. We then moved about a mile to Puerto Naos. Here we anchored three times and still dragged a bit. As we tried to chain the dinghy ashore we were chased off the mooring ring by a local who told us to chain and padlock to a rock. This we did and went shopping. Naos had excellent chandleries and we purchased everything we needed including sheer pins for the outboard. After the supermercado, we returned to find the tide had risen and the rock and chain were a foot under water. This was further compounded as the chain had inexplicably caught under a huge boulder and the dinghy was straining to stay afloat. After struggling with a combination lock a foot below the surface, Jeremy lited the rock around which the chain was locked. This released the chain, but the second finger on Jeremy’s right hand was badly squashed. Only two fingers left! The boat was now dangerously close to a quay on the leeside of the harbour. We launched; Jeremy rowed to the pontoon for water; he then went to “Shanty” to give them some pilotage information – we had met the Dutch family in Cascais, Portugal – ; Kathy was shouted at from the shore for being too close to some other boats and then we left. Not our favourite spot.

Arriving at Arrecife, some two miles south, our friend from “Aventyr” pointed out a mooring, which we gratefully picked up. Just as we were finally securing it, a German boat immediately ahead of us (“Rose Erensee”) told us that it was only a small block. Jeremy changed into his snorkelling apparel while Kathy cooked a delicious mince and tatties meal. The block looked okay, but the satellite alarm was put on anyway (it went off at 0700 the next morning at low water). At 2300 just as Kathy was going to bed, Jeremy picked up a WiFi signal and managed to post last weeks blog, but as usual it would not upload the pictures. He tried with the Pringles tin as Simon had suggested, but failed and it began to RAIN HEAVILY. It’s not meant to do that here!