A Bridge Too Far

Thank you to all our readers who have bought one or both of our books, “Sailing By on Sal Darago” Volume 1 and 2. They continue to be available on Amazon. Please leave a review if you liked the books.

The last land based jobs on Sal Darago were completed in May. Her decks were scraped, sanded and repainted and the topsides were cleaned and polished.  New antifoul paint was applied. We collected her sails from Sail Medic in Ipswich along with two new dodgers and a sail cover. The sails had been washed and serviced. Tom warned us that they would need to be replaced soon, but hopefully, they would last for one more season.

As we hauled the mainsail up a few days later it tangled at the cross trees and ripped. Tom had gone on holiday so we patched and stitched it ourselves.

Ready to launch

Time was moving on and we were keen to launch. This we were able to do after spending a weekend in Lancashire to celebrate our niece, Miki’s, 50^th birthday. Then there was my birthday and granddaughter, Ellie’s, birthday.

Durham Regatta

At last, on 28^th May Sal Darago was launched into the River Deben by Simon from Melton Boatyard. We motored down river to our mooring and tied up at Ramsholt. Earlier in the day we’d taken the car to Ramsholt with our bikes loaded inside. Then we’d cycled four miles to Melton arriving in the rain.

Andy, Kathy, Moyra, Ben and Jeremy in Durham

It was looking like we would make it to Ramsgate by 14^th June for the start of the Westerly Owners Association Summer Cruise. First, we had a commitment to attend Durham Regatta for the weekend before. We stayed with our friends Andy, Moyra and Ben. We had a lovely time catching up with them and with a good number of college and rowing friends from the 1970’s.

Back at home, we checked the weather. It was going to turn nasty – definitely S or SW force 6 and maybe 7 or gale force 8 by the weekend. We had one day to defrost the freezer, do our laundry, shop for Sal Darago and close up the house for 3 months! Two trips to the boat the following day saw everything loaded on board and stowed. We drove home and our daughter, Emily, drove us back to Ramsholt in her car. There was no change in the weather forecast, but we might just miss the worst of it by leaving a day early.

At 5.00 am on Thursday 13^th June, we motored out of the River Deben and set a course for Ramsgate. The winds were light at first, increasing slowly and blowing hard on the nose for the last 22 miles. We were relieved to tie up in Ramsgate Marina helped by fellow Westerly owners. Swell entered the marina and all the boats were pitching and rolling.

Kathy in the Ramsgate Tunnels

Memorable visits in Ramsgate included a meal in the largest Wetherspoons in the world; drinks in the Royal Temple Yacht Club; a guided tour of WW2 tunnels and lunch in the Home Front Tea Rooms. The weather was cold, wet and windy. The pontoons in the harbour were affected by the incoming swell.

Westerly owners at Pin Mill

Fortunately, we had much better conditions on Monday when the fleet sailed north to the River Orwell. Here we split into pre-arranged groups with members taking berths at Shotley Marina, Royal Harwich Yacht Club or Ipswich Beacon Marina. Jeremy and I were berthing reps for RHYC and Ipswich.

Sunset over the Orwell Bridge

Highlights of our five nights on the River Orwell included a riverside walk to Pin Mill, lunch at the Butt and Oyster and a 6 hour private hire trip down the river and back on the Thames barge, Victor. It was good to see Hilary and Steve from Travelling Light again and former Westerly owners Bill and Bren, whom we’d last seen in Coffs Harbour, Australia, in 2019!

The Thames barge, Victor, at Ipswich

Jeremy and I invited our daughter and two grandchildren, Ellie and Sophie, to meet us in Ipswich on our last evening and we’d all go out for a pizza. This was the evening that I fell down the stern hatch, bashing my chest hard on the rim and smacking my face on the hatch lid. Once the shock had worn off and I felt all right we went for our pizza and had a lovely evening.

Sunset over the moorings at Queenborough

The next day required an early start. We left Ipswich with fellow Westerly yacht, Oratava, soon after 6.00am and reached Brightlingsea in Essex at midday. We remembered our previous visit 50 years ago in our small power boat and how excited we’d felt to be going “out to sea” for the first time. Soon lots of Westerly boats were rafted up on both sides of a floating pontoon. The water taxi to the shore cost £1.50 per person per trip or you could take your own dinghy.

The main highlight from our two nights in Brightlingsea was the delicious carvery in Colne Yacht Club. We shared a table with Hilary, Steve, Bill, Bren and Dutch couple, Cor and Lia from Dionysa. Our table won Commodore Brian’s quiz and six of us shared the prize of a bottle of red wine later, on Sal Darago.

Hilary, Bill, Bren, Steve and Jeremy at Colne YC

We had another early start on Monday 24^th June. There was some disagreement about the departure time. Most of us were away before 6.00am. Our destination was Queenborough on the Isle of Sheppey. Our first crossing of the River Thames estuary was very pleasant in calm, sunny weather and we were tied up to the all tide landing by lunchtime.

Chatham Historical Boatyard

The next day we departed for Chatham in Kent after having a tasty English breakfast in a Turkish café. Travelling Light and Sal Darago were the last to leave and enjoyed a leisurely sail upriver. We spent two nights in Chatham Marina. There were lots of interesting places to visit in the area. We chose to spend a day in the Historical Boatyard. We passed in and out of hatches on the 1962 submarine, Ocelot, wandered around the 1878 three master, HMS Gannet and spent time exploring the 1944 warship, HMS Cavalier. We finished the day in The Ropery where we saw long ropes being made using traditional methods and machinery. On the way back to the marina, I began to have pains in my chest, especially when coughing.

Thames Barrier

On Thursday, 23^rd June, the Westerly boats departed at various times for Queenborough. I took ibuprofen and paracetamol in the morning and felt better. At Queenborough, we rafted up to Travelling Light on a mooring shared by 6 boats. Jeremy and I went ashore in the free trot boat and walked to a Tapas restaurant where we shared 5 dishes and a bottle of rose. On our return the wind was blowing strongly and the tide was moving quickly. Dionysa, rafted up to the all tide landing was damaged in the night by a French yacht tying up to them in the difficult conditions. A stanchion was ripped out. All was well with the yachts on the mooring.

National Maritime Museum, Greenwich, London

The next day I still had chest pains and knew I’d have to see a doctor soon. I took pain killers throughout the 40 mile motor along the Thames to London. Strong headwinds blew. We arrived with the first group of yachts. All of them entered the lock into St Katharine’s Dock, except us. We tied up to a mooring right next to Tower Bridge to wait for the next locking. We were not called in AGAIN and the lock was filled with boats that had arrived after us. We had arrived at 1725 and entered the third locking at 1905! My chest pains were worse.

Tower Bridge, London

Consequently, just after breakfast on Saturday 29^th June, I phoned 111, answered lots of questions, declined an ambulance, had a shower, hailed a cab and went to A&E at the Royal Hospital. Jeremy came with me. After an ECG, chest X-ray, blood tests and a CT scan, I was diagnosed with a fractured sternum late in the evening. I was kept in overnight; discharged on Sunday afternoon; collected by Emily in the evening and driven to her house for two nights. Here I joined another granny, Ben’s Mum Beth, who was recovering from an operation on her foot. Jeremy returned to Sal Darago alone. We missed the last two days of the Summer Cruise and the motor under Tower Bridge. Jeremy sailed single handed to the River Deben in one, long day.

Sal Darago in St Katharine's Dock, London

We were reunited on the Tuesday and settled into a landlubber’s life again, while Sal Darago waited patiently on her mooring in the river.

Sadly, we’ve had to cancel our plans to sail to Denmark to see Robert and Lene. I’ve been told to expect 6 weeks for the fracture to mend and a further 6 weeks for complete recovery. Hopefully, from the middle of August, I can go sailing again in local waters. I think I’ll be “Skipper,” hog the helm and command my “crew” to “hoist the sails” or “weigh the anchor”! It might be fun. Then again, I might have a mutiny on my hands! I’ll let you know.

 

Happy New Year

Lake Tahoe

 We hope everyone has been keeping well since our last blog post back in September.

 

San Francisco waterfront

Once Sal Darago was safely on the hard at Melton Boatyard, near Woodbridge, in Suffolk, we made plans to visit our son, Simon, daughter-in-law, Erin and grandchildren, Nina and Ramona in California. We stayed with them for a month and had a great time catching up with them and visiting some lovely places with the family and on our own. Most memorable are Lake Tahoe, Inverness, San Francisco and the Hikers Hut.

Inverness, California

 

Simon took us completely by surprise when he showed us two books he had published privately for us. Both books are quite thick and contain many colour photographs of our voyages. Volume 1 charts our first circumnavigation of the world from 2008-2014. From the Lancashire coast, we travel to Europe, sail across the Atlantic Ocean, on through the Caribbean, transit the Panama Canal and cross the Pacific Ocean. We visit the Galapagos, French Polynesia, Cook Islands, Niue, Tonga, New Zealand and Australia. Then we go to Indonesia, Malaysia and Thailand. Next we cross the Indian Ocean and call in at Cocos Keeling, Rodrigues, Mauritius, Reunion and South Africa. Turning north we enter the Atlantic Ocean and have stops in Namibia, St Helena, the Caribbean, Bermuda, the Azores and the Isle of Man before returning to Lancashire.

Sailing by on Sal Darago is now available for anyone to buy on Amazon.
 

Volume 2 tells the story of our second circumnavigation from 2016-2023. We  moved to Suffolk in 2014, so this time we left from the River Deben. After crossing the Atlantic and passing through the Panama Canal, we motor sailed north for about 3000 miles to visit Simon and Erin in San Francisco. We sailed under the Golden Gate Bridge and around Alcatraz. Heading south to Mexico, we spent a season exploring the Sea of Cortez. Then off we went across the Pacific visiting American Samoa, Samoa, Fiji, Vanuatu, New Caledonia and Australia. We followed the east coast to Sydney and anchored off the Opera House to watch the magnificent New Year firework display over Sydney Harbour Bridge. Wild fires ravaged the east and south coasts. We escaped to Tasmania, crossed the Great Australian Bight and came to a standstill in Albany, Western Australia. The world went into lockdown. After several months, we were able to move north to Carnarvon on the Indian Ocean coast.

Almost 2 years later, we continued our journey returning to the River Deben via the Cape of Good Hope, the Atlantic Ocean, the Irish Sea and the North Sea.

Both volumes have now been published on Amazon. We hope you enjoy reading them. If you do, please leave a review.

Jeremy, Nina, Kathy, Ramona and Simon in front of the Hikers Hut

Jeremy and Kathy at the WOA AGM, Poole

 

“So,” you might ask, “what’s happening with Sal Darago?” The bow and stern stays have been replaced. The front cabin, heads and half the bilges have been cleaned and repainted. The crankshaft oil seal has been replaced. 

Diesel tanks removed

 

 The diesel fuel tanks have been removed and are being tested for leaks. Assuming everything can be put back in place, we hope to join the Westerly Owners Association on their national cruise on the east coast of Kent, Essex and Suffolk. After that, we might sail to Belgium, Holland, Germany and Denmark.

 

Thames barges at Maldon, Essex

 

 

Inverness Firth to the River Deben, Suffolk

Rainbow and cloud in the Moray Firth

Greetings from Suffolk, England, UK! We made it. Our second circumnavigation of the world in Sal Darago is now complete. So, how did we spend our last three weeks on board?

On leaving the Caledonian Canal, our first anchorage was in the Moray Firth at Cullen Bay, where we spent a peaceful night. 

 

Cullen Bay

Next was Peterhead. We motorsailed into a light easterly headwind. Optimistically, I said, “No problem, we’ll be able to sail on a beam reach when we turn south at Fraserburgh.”The wind had other ideas and promptly turned south. We had choppy seas for a while at Rattray Head, which calmed as we approached Peterhead. The marina in the sheltered port was very welcoming and affordable at £21 per night. We enjoyed a walk around the harbour to the Waverly Arms Hotel. 

 

Eyemouth

The winds continued to be light and variable, so we motorsailed all the way to Eyemouth, 95nm further south, avoiding two wind farms and arriving in the dark at 0200. All the spaces on the visitors’ pontoon were taken and most were rafted up. Jeremy managed to squeeze Sal Darago on the shallow end of the pontoon, almost underneath the bows of a private motor yacht. Prices were increasing as we made our way south. Here we paid £30.50 per night plus £2 for eight minutes in the shower. We had lunch in the Contented Sole on the waterfront and shopped at the nearby Co-op.

 

Lindisfarne Castle, Holy Island

It was only 20nm to Holy Island, just over the border in England. The tide was with us, the winds were light again, but the weather was cold and cloudy. We anchored off The Heugh, with a lovely view of Lindisfarne Castle. The following day we had time to explore Holy Island, a favourite place of ours from our distant Durham days. We had lunch in The Ship. Stronger SE winds were forecast, from which there was little shelter, so I persuaded Jeremy to weigh anchor and head for Amble. We had left our departure a little late and needed to make good time if we were to enter the River Cocquet and have enough water over the cill at Amble Marina. 

 

Jasper's Bistro, Amble

Soon we were bashing into a headwind in wind over tide conditions, but first we were able to admire the beautiful landscape around us, which included the Farne Islands, Bamburgh Castle and Dunstanburgh Castle. We cleared the sandbar at the entrance to the River Cocquet with less than a metre beneath our keels; motored through Warkworth Harbour and cleared the cill into Amble Marina with only 15 minutes left before the last possible entry. Whew!

 

Bamburgh Castle

Prices per night in Amble were £38.50 plus £5 for 24 hours of mains electricity. We stayed for two nights to let the effects of Storm Betty pass by. We also filled up with 87 litres of diesel. We explored the town, had a lovely meal in Jasper’s Bistro and shopped at Tesco Extra. We made arrangements to meet up with our friends, Andy and Moira in Sunderland and to spend a day with Jeremy’s brother Gavin and his wife, Eileen. Andy has recently published a book. It’s about No4. Sheep Street, a bookshop in Stratford upon Avon and Andy’s eccentric grandfather. It was started by Andy’s father, Gerald and completed by Andy. The book is available on Amazon. Look for “Shakespeare Press – The Memoir of Gerald Jaggard”.

 

Sunderland Marina

We were due to leave Amble on Saturday 19^th August. I did not feel well. The wind was gusting and whistling around the marina. The inshore forecast was for SW 4 or 5 occasionally 6 at first, decreasing 3 later. Jeremy was confident that we should leave. I wasn’t so sure. However, we were not leaving until mid afternoon, because of the tide, and it was only a six hour journey. I took Stugeron, just in case. I was so glad I had because the wind did not die down until we reached the mouth of the River Tyne. We had uncomfortable, short seas and sustained gusts of over 30 knots. In addition, we had a wind farm to avoid, one of many close to the coast in the North Sea. In lighter winds, as we approached Sunderland, the spinlock lever that holds the main halyard broke as we were about to take down the double reefed mainsail. We were very happy to motor gently into Sunderland Marina at 2120 and tie up in a berth, but first we had to remove a large tree branch, which was stuck under the pontoon.

 

Kathy, Moira, Andy and Jeremy on Sal Darago

The next day we learned that Gavin and Eileen had Covid. They had just returned from a family holiday in Spain and were not feeling well. It was agreed that we should not visit them. Fortunately, Andy and Moira were fit and well. We enjoyed lunch together at Cafe Six facing the beach followed by tea/coffee on Sal Darago back at the marina. It was lovely to catch up with each other’s news.

 

Sculpture at Sunderland seafront

We paid our marina bill the following day - £62 for two nights. We left the marina at low tide and almost got stuck on a sandbank before reaching the channel in the River Wear. Jeremy reversed off and into the channel. We stowed the fenders and lines and put up the mainsail in the shelter of the river. We had gusty winds from the SW of 14-16 knots, occasionally reaching 28 knots. The tide swept us southwards at speeds of 6.7-7 knots.

 

Runswick Bay

Originally, we had planned to sail to Whitby and meet up with our nephew, James, his wife, Juliette and children, Alice, Anna and Daniel. However, westerly winds were forecast and it made sense to anchor at Runswick Bay. Having avoided numerous fishing pots, we dropped the anchor at 1920 and sat in the cockpit enjoying sundowners. A speedboat came by with a boy water skiing behind. We waved. Minutes later they came alongside and gave us a lobster and two mackerel.

 

Lobster for supper

We had an early start the next day leaving Runswick Bay at 0630. The winds were gusty around the headlands and cliffs. We saw the skeletal ruins of Whitby Abbey followed by the beaches of Robin Hood’s Bay and Scarborough as we passed. It wasn’t far to the anchorage in Filey Bay. We arrived at 1120, in good time for our fresh mackerel lunch. It was very pleasant in the sunshine but we couldn’t enjoy it for long. Both the car and house insurance were due for renewal, so we had to spend time on the internet looking for the best deals and making arrangements. Then we had to plot our course to the River Deben with stops at Spurn Head and perhaps, Wells by the Sea or Lowestoft. Our lovely lobster supper was our reward for our afternoon’s efforts.

 

Spurn Head

We left Filey Bay at 0620 and rounded Flamborough Head. As we passed yet another wind farm, we made good speed with the tide towards Spurn Head. We decided to anchor for lunch and let the adverse tide pass by. We chose to anchor off Kilsea in a calm offshore breeze. At 1600 we weighed anchor and headed for the River Humber. As strong S-SE winds were forecast, we set a course for a southern anchorage across the river. Small boats have to follow a designated route when crossing the river. We needed to pass a pipe layer or dredger with a vessel standing by. Jeremy called on VHF channel 16 to ask which side we should pass. There was no reply. Then the vessel started blowing its hooter at us so we turned away. VTS Humber called us and told us there was a 500m exclusion zone that we had entered. We had been listening to the safety broadcasts on VHF14, but no mention had been made of this. We were informed that the anchorage we were heading towards was commercial only and we must anchor at Spurn Head. We turned round, retraced our course and anchored at Spurn Head at 1850 with two other yachts and a catamaran.

 

Woodbridge Haven

We were up at 0500 the following day to check the inshore forecast. There was a strong wind warning for force 6 southerlies. We went back to bed. After lunch, the new inshore forecast had no strong wind warning. It seemed we had a 24 hour window of opportunity. We weighed anchor at 1410, called VTS Humber for clearance and motored across the river in misty/hazy calm conditions. We identified wind farms in the mist. The light wind shifted northerly and we flew our genoa, but we needed to use the engine as well. The mist cleared before the sun set at 2005. The half moon set two hours later. Lights of all colours and descriptions flashed ahead and to each side. Fast ferries going up to 20 knots overtook us within a quarter of a mile. More wind farms showed their red lights and service catamarans zipped back and forth. We were on watch for two hours each throughout the night. I had to call Jeremy up a couple of times to help me identify various lights. One turned out to be a lighthouse on land!

 

Ready for lift out, Melton Boatyard

We decided not to stop at Lowestoft as we could make Woodbridge Haven in time for the afternoon tide. I was on watch at first light as we approached Lowestoft soon after low water. I saw the depth sounder drop to 4m from the expected 24m and again called Jeremy up. There were vessels of all types waiting to enter the harbour including a warship. Fishing vessels were going in and out of the harbour and the direction of buoyage had changed. We found our way across the shifting sandbanks and continued towards the River Deben, actually sailing under genoa alone for 90 minutes. All went well with the entry to the Deben even though there were many yachts and power boats. It was Friday afternoon of the August Bank Holiday weekend. By 1600 we were in the river passing the moorings at Felixstowe Ferry, where we saw "Kimochi", the Feeling yacht we had been with in the Caledonian Canal. We tied to Nick’s mooring, the same mooring we had used before we started out in 2016. Our second circumnavigation of the world ended where it had begun.

 

Hatchling on our satellite dish at home

The next day we moved upriver to Simon Skeet’s mooring nearer to Woodbridge. On Sunday, we left our dinghy at Everson’s pontoon and caught the train home. We had been away for seven months. The following Thursday, we motored up to Melton Boatyard. Simon lifted Sal Darago out of the water and power washed her bottom. Two days later, she was placed in the boatyard and we began the process of preparing her for winter.

So, where do we go from here? We’ll let you know when we decide to “travel hopefully” again.

 

The Caledonian Canal

 

Mist and fog in Loch Linnhe

The next day we motored out of Loch a Choire in mist and fog, which lifted as the day warmed up and lay in streaks along the mountains. It was very beautiful. I had a phone call from the Caledonian Canal soon after 0800. I’d left a message the previous day. Did we know we had to book online at the scottishcanals website? We didn’t. We learned the canal was open but the sea lock would close at 1430. Jeremy found the form on the website, booked a transit of seven days and paid £270.

 

Corpach basin

Corpach sea lock opened at 1100. We entered and tied up. A yacht called Ibis tied up behind us. After lunch, we went up Neptune’s Staircase, a flight of 8 locks. Many tourists lined both sides of the locks. We tied up at Banavie for the night. Ibis tied up behind us. We had supper at The Lochy pub and bought a few groceries at the local Co-op.

Day 2. We had to telephone ahead to the lock keeper at Gairlochy and check the opening times for the swing bridges at Moy and Gairloch. Just before Moy bridge we came across the hotel barge, Scottish Highlander, which had stopped in the middle of the canal waiting for the bridge to open. We asked permission to go past and tie up to a waiting pontoon. Two yachts were tied up on the opposite side. The lock keeper said Scottish Highlander and three yachts could proceed through the open swing bridge and into the lock. We were the last yacht. Ibis had to wait until later. We spent the night tied up above the loch and used the excellent toilet and showering facilities provided. Ibis tied up behind us and we enjoyed chatting to Ian and Jan.

Kathy steering along the Caledonian Canal

Day 3. We passed through Laggan locks and entered Loch Oich. There was a pontoon near a picnic area. We tied up, went ashore and had a barbecue in sunny weather. In the afternoon, we continued to Cullochy lock and had to wait for Scottish Highlander to enter first. Next, we passed through Kytra lock and tied up for the night above the Fort Augustus flight of 5 locks.

 

Scenic reach on the Caledonian Canal

Day 4. Two barges had to take the first locking. We were next with one other yacht. We tied up below the locks. Jeremy went to the nearby Spar for groceries. We had lunch at the Lock Inn. When we returned, Ibis was tied up behind us. After chatting to Ian and Jan, we set off into Loch Ness, unfurled the genoa and sailed gently towards Urquart Castle, where we anchored for the night. We launched the dinghy and explored a woodland area ashore. Nessie came to visit on our return.

 

Look who popped up!

Day 5. We continued through Loch Ness to Dochgarroch lock, passed through and tied up about half a mile below the lock. We had a barbecue on the side of the canal. Later on, Jan and Ian came on board for sundowners and a long chat. 

 

Sharing a lock

Day 6. It rained as we motored towards Torvean and Tomnahurch swing bridges. We had to tie up and wait for Scottish Highlander and another barge to pass through first. We followed to the Muirtown flight of 5 locks. As before, the two barges filled the first lock. We waited at a stone wharf. Four yachts shared the next locking. One was Ibis. Opposite us was a Feeling yacht from the River Deben in Suffolk, which is our home river. Small world! After the locks and a swing bridge, we tied up to a previously booked finger berth at Seaport Marina. The first night was free and the second night cost £10. Ibis was tying up behind us on a different pontoon. Someone shouted, “Person in the water!” It was Jan. She’d slipped on the finger berth and fallen in. Unfortunately, she hurt her shoulder and a visit to A&E confirmed she had broken her arm.

 

Urquart Castle, Loch Ness

Day 7. We shopped at the nearby Co-op in the morning. In the evening we had drinks on Ibis. Later, Mirek and Jasper, two crew who are helping Ian take Ibis down the east coast, slept the night on Sal Darago. Jan went home by bus and has been advised to go to her local fracture clinic for further assessment.

 

The Moray Firth

We left the Caledonian Canal on Sunday morning, 13^th August and started our journey down the east coast to Suffolk.

Tobermory, Isle of Mull to Loch a Choire

 

Cuddles on Sal Darago

We left Loch Aline at 0700 on Monday 24^th July and motored up the Sound of Mull in cold, light WNW winds. Jeremy steered through the Narrows between Calve Island and Mull with only one metre under our keels. He blew his grandfather’s WW1 bugle to sound our arrival. We picked up a Tobermory Harbour Association mooring buoy and went ashore. The usual daily charge for a buoy is £17 per night for an 11m boat. We decided to buy 10 nights at the discounted price of £14 per night. We paid our fee at the Harbour Office in Tobermory Aquarium building near the marina at Ledaig.

 

Swimming at Loch na Droma Buidhe

Afterwards, we walked up the steep Prison Brae to the cottage. We had bags of laundry and our showering gear. Em, Ben and the girls had gone camping for a few days, so we had the cottage to ourselves. We made good use of the washing machine, the new electric cooker and the super duper new shower in the totally refurbished bathroom. Jeremy’s brother, Gavin, and his wife, Eileen, had sourced everything needed for the new bathroom. Our next door neighbour, Hughie, agreed to supervise the job of stripping out the old bathroom and putting in the new one. Thank you Gavin, Eileen, Hughie and the other tradespeople for an amazing transformation.

 

Kathy emerging from Loch na Droma Buidhe

In addition, Gavin and Eileen sourced a new electric cooker to replace the old calor gas one, new pans, a new electric water heater and a new electric towel rail.

Em, Ben and the girls returned the next day. We joined them for supper. It was wonderful to be reunited again after seven months apart. We had missed the lovely night time cuddles from Ellie and Sophie.

 

Setting out on our trek

The following morning we collected the family, their many bags and four body boards at the marina and motored over to Loch na Droma Buidhe. We explored the burn and the beach leaving our names in cockle shells on the rocks on the shore. Later on, we all swam from Sal Darago wearing wet suits, except for Jeremy. The water was cold.

 

Fabulous views from the top of the hill.

Em had booked a session for four of us at Mull Pony Trekking for the afternoon of Thursday 27^th July. Liz Henderson runs the centre. She had broken her collar bone in a fall from a horse only 3 weeks before, but was still managing to work as she had a number of helpers. Jeremy came along to lead Sophie. Em, Ellie and I joined Sophie and a couple of other riders in a peaceful and enjoyable hill trek.

 

Family reunion at Macgochans, Tobermory

The next day we collected the family from the marina once more. This time they had even more bags as they were going to spend two nights on Sal Darago. The weather forecast was not good, so we decided to go to the head of Loch Sunart. We anchored just before the Narrows off Eilean Garbh, where Em saw a sea eagle. Jeremy booked us all into Kilcamb Lodge Hotel for Em’s birthday lunch. We were able to pick up a mooring for a £5 donation at Strontian and walk about a mile to the hotel. It rained, but nobody minded as we were warm and cosy in the Driftwood Bistro and the lounge at Kilcamb Lodge. We could stay as long as we wanted.

 

Em's birthday at Kilcamb Lodge

As we motored from Strontian to Salen Loch Sunart, the rain lashed down and the wind strengthened. Ben phoned ahead and booked a berth at the marina for the night. After a walk in sunshine in the forest the next day, we had lunch at the Salen Hotel before returning to Tobermory.

Meanwhile, our nephew Jamie, his wife, Juliette, daughter, Anna and son, Daniel had arrived in Tobermory. We had two great days out with them. There were 10 of us on board Sal Darago for a day trip to Loch na Droma Buidhe, where we had a picnic lunch. Ellie, Sophie, Jamie and his family braved the cold water for a swim.

 

Kilninian Kirk near the black sands beach

That evening, back in Tobermory, Em, Ben, Ellie, Sophie, Jeremy and I had a meal at Cafe Fish. Jeremy and I took the girls back to the cottage and put them to bed. It’s a long time since we read bedtime stories together. 

 

West Highland Race yachts rafted up at Tobermory Marina

The next day was the last day of the holiday for Em, Ben, Ellie and Sophie. It was a dry day so we all set off for the beach along with Jamie and family. Three barbecues were set up and everyone ate and drank heartily. Jeremy and I went for a walk and later joined everyone back at the beach for a swim and a game of cricket. We had a great day.

Eating out at The Western Isles Hotel

On our return the West Highland Race had arrived in Tobermory. The wind was blowing strongly from the NE and all the yachts were pitching and rolling in the bay and in the marina. We had difficulty clambering on to Sal Darago and had a fairly uncomfortable few hours before the wind changed direction.

Glensanda Quarry, Loch Linnhe

The next couple of days were spent doing laundry and tidying the garden at the cottage. We said goodbye to our neighbours, Fiona and Hughie and to John and Eilidh. It’s always sad to be leaving Tobermory but we still had a long way to go to our home in Suffolk.

 

The Boathouse Restaurant, Loch a Choire

We weighed anchor at 0645 on Sunday 6^th August and motorsailed to Loch a Choire near Loch Linnhe. Jeremy had booked us into the Boathouse Restaurant. We had some difficulty anchoring and later learned that we could have used one of the new moorings which we saw nearby. The meal was delicious.