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| Someone took the water away |
Isla Espiritu Santo
We anchored for two nights in Bahia San Gabriel. A long, white beach lined the anchorage. During
an afternoon siesta, we awoke to the sound of buzzing. A small swarm of bees
had invaded the cockpit and the saloon. After some persuasion with the fly
swat, they retreated out of the saloon and we put all our insect nets in place.
The bees stayed in the cockpit. Our cruising guide mentioned that bees can come
looking for water and we had a bucket of La Paz fresh water on our side deck.
No wonder we were being invaded. No-one was stung and once the water was removed
from the deck many of the bees went home.
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| Beware pricks when walking |
It was with some trepidation that we ventured outside later
with our snorkelling gear and portable shower and headed for the shore. On our
return, all the bees had gone but we kept the insect nets in place.
There is a trail that leads from Bahia San Gabriel, across
the island to Bahia Bonanza. The next day, Thursday 8th February, we
donned our walking shoes, forgot our walking poles again, and set off into the
desert. Before long we were following footprints and feeling a little like
Winnie the Pooh as we followed them round giant cacti and prickly bushes towards
our distant destination only 2 miles away. I think we walked quite a bit
further. Anyway, we made it there and back safely.
On our return, the tide had gone out a long way.
Fortunately, our dinghy has wheels, but it was a long haul across the sandbanks
to deeper water.
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| Striated cliffs at La Raza |
Ensenada de la Raza
In the afternoon, we motored four miles north past Isla
Gallina and Isla Gallo and anchored. We snorkelled to the northern shore. I
found that my shoulder was too painful to swim front crawl and had to use
breast stroke arms at a slow pace. (My sore shoulder is as a result of being
rescued from falling in at La Paz.) I wasn’t sure that I could swim back, so
Jeremy swam ahead to fetch the dinghy. Soon afterwards, a turtle swam beneath
me, gliding along effortlessly. I realised that all I had to do was keep moving
my arms and legs and I would make it back to SD. I was almost there when Jeremy
arrived with the dinghy. I kept swimming and made it safely back to the boat.
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| Was the view worth it? |
Isla Partida
On our way to Ensenada
Grande we motored between Isla Ballena and Isla Partida. It was a journey
of 7 miles. We anchored off a cove adjacent to a large, white fishermen’s cross
on the hillside. Ashore, a number of kayakers had set up camp. We decided to
hike the “well marked” grade 3 trail, assuming grade 3 was probably about
average. We had our walking poles and we followed the markers. Very soon we
were clambering over boulders and snaking upwards along a dry river bed. I had
to put my knee support bandage on. It was hot, strenuous work. The trail ended
at the top of cliffs on the other side of the island, with good views. The
return hike was just as strenuous and I decided at the bottom that the view was
not worth the effort. Now that a little time has passed, I think that it
probably was.
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| Yet another San Francisco and no bridge |
Isla San Francisco
The southern anchorage here is picture postcard perfect with
a curved, white sand beach at its head. We went in the opposite anchorage,
Agates Bay, as southerly winds were forecast. S/V Lucy was the only other
vessel anchored with us with Christian and Karen on board. Christian had caught
too many fish and gave us a grouper, which was delicious a day or two later,
when we had finished our beef stew. We snorkelled the eastern point and walked
across a dry salt pond to view the southern anchorage. The south winds did not
arrive and we pitched in easterly swell until morning.
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| La Coyote, microscopic village on tiny island |
San Evaristo
Our next destination was ten miles away on the Baja
Peninsula. Ashore there was a small tienda and a desalination plant. It was
Sunday, 11th February, so we deferred going ashore for food and
water until Monday. S/V Amelie, registered in Jersey, with Steve and Debbie on
board was the second British vessel we’d seen since leaving San Francisco. We
were invited aboard and spent the afternoon exchanging sailing adventures over
a few drinks. The next day, we took the dinghy ashore and learned that the
tienda was closed as the owner had gone to La Paz for supplies. We returned to
SD with 20 litres of fresh water, but no fresh food.
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| San Evaristo church |
Los Gatos
We weighed anchor straight away. Northerly winds were
forecast and our next anchorage was 25 miles north at Timbabiche. We sailed for
a while in easterly winds and a swell built up from the south east. It would be
too uncomfortable at Timbabiche, so we continued for a further 3 miles to Puerto
Los Gatos and anchored between two reefs in the southern part of the bay. We
both had a swim. The water was fairly cold.
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| Sunrise at Los Gatos |
Bahia Agua Verde
The next day was cloudy and calm. We motored 18 miles to
Bahia Agua Verde seeing 10 dolphins on the way. A large ray jumped out of the
water a short distance away. We anchored in the northern cove with three other
visiting vessels. By evening there were 10 or 11 boats and it was becoming
crowded. Ashore, we found a well-stocked tienda in the village. We bought fresh
fruit, vegetables and some beef steak. The local speciality was goats’ cheese,
so we bought some. Then we were shown local needlework and bought a cushion
cover sized piece of fabric showing an embroidered turkey. Emily will love it
or perhaps Simon will prefer it?
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| Leaving Agua Verde at dawn, Roca Solitaria |
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