Landlubbers to Sailors - Part 2

Our magic carpet

 The trip across the Bay of Biscay had its usual ups and downs, literally. We had northerly winds all the time and no strong winds or gales. However, the swell was very uncomfortable one day and I was glad I took Stugeron. Jeremy’s back was still painful but he was able to do all the necessary things such as raising the main, hauling in sheets, putting up a spinnaker pole for downwind sailing and coping with the rocky rolly motion.

We had a couple of ships on a collision course or about to pass too close which we called on the VHF radio. They had seen us and they were happy to alter course to avoid us. The worst hazard was the fishing vessels as we started to close with the coast in the dark. There were so many I thought I was back in Indonesia. Mostly they are brightly lit, but avoiding one puts you too close to another. There was a scary moment when I started the engine to avoid a fishing vessel as I passed through the fleet and another when I accidentally released the mainsheet and nearly lost the boom, but generally, all went well and SD performed well under sail and under engine.

Cabo Villano

After 3 nights and 4 days at sea, we reached the Costa del Morte rounding Cabo Villano and Cabo Finisterre. Eight years ago we met stormy seas here but this time it was calm as we motored gently towards the town of Finisterre in the Rias Atlas and dropped the anchor off Ensada de Llagosteira. “Jeremy,” I joked. “We’ve gone the wrong way and we’re in a Scottish loch”. The scenery could easily have been from the Western Isles and the temperature was similar in the chill northerly winds.

Cabo Finisterre

The next day we explored the town and enjoyed wandering through the narrow alleys of the old quarter. We met several people who had been walking the cominos or pilgrim paths to Sandiago de Compostela. Many had walked 800 kilometres. We went to see the Capitain to check in but no papers were needed. He recommended an “economical” restaurant on the corner near the harbour and we had menu a dia for 12 euros each. This included 3 courses, 2 beers and a bottle of water. After this we really needed a siesta.

Fabulous old alleys

Don't get lost

After two nights at anchor, we motored round to Ria de Muros, leaving in misty conditions and arriving in bright sunshine as the day warmed up. We anchored for lunch in Ensenada San Francisco and moved on to anchor off Muros for the night. The forecast was for SW gales so we were pleased to have good protection from the wind and good holding for our anchor. Muros was similar to Finisterre with a fascinating old town of narrow streets and alleys. We had lunch ashore choosing one course each this time. The portions were enormous and I was glad I had a doggy bag with me. I had enough left over for lunch the following day.

Roof tops of Muros

We left Muros at midday on 25^th September and had a rocky rolly ride to Ria de Pontevedra . A tropical storm way out in the Atlantic sent a 3 metre swell our way so we took refuge off Playa de Silga near Sanxenxo. The outlying rocks and islands broke up the swell and we were fine. The next morning we motored round the corner to the marina and filled up with diesel and water before crossing the Ria to anchor between Bueu and Beluso. There is small marina in both ports. Beluso is pretty and quiet. Bueu is a busy fishing harbour with lots of shops and supermarkets. We stocked up on milk and beer.

Anchored in San Francisco Bay... REALLY.

Tomorrow, we hope to go to Baiona to have our gas bottles filled and it’s about time we visited a laundry.

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