Wednesday 29 August 2012

Bye Bye Mauritius

Once again the time has come for us to leave a country and set off for another. Tomorrow (Thursday) we leave Port Louis and sail for 24 hours to the island of Reunion. We have exchanged our remaining rupees for euros, had our laundry done, filled our water tanks, charged our new boat batteries, returned our toilet/shower block key and paid our harbour fees of 300 rupees a day.
Jeremy and Kathy at Mahebourg

When we left Grand Baie, we returned south to Grande Riviere Noir, staying at Tombeau Baie and Tamarin Baie for one night each. Our friends, Eric and Cathy, on “Erica” had gone on ahead of us and had kindly filled our cooking gas bottle while they were in Port Louis. It ran out on the evening we had invited them over for dinner. Fortunately, we had a spare. While we were anchored at Black River we had a day out by bus. Erica and Cathy came with us. We changed buses at Baia du Cap and Riviera Galets, arriving at Maheborg in Grande Porte about two and a half hours later. The lagoon is beautiful, but the entrance faces into the trade winds and the swell. The weather conditions were not suitable for sailing there. Apparently it is the site of the only naval battle where Napoleon’s French beat the British. After lunch and a quick walk along the waterfront we boarded a bus to Port Louis and then another one back to Black River. It was a good way to see the island.
Coloured earth at Chamarel
The next day Jeremy and I caught the bus to Chamarel and walked to the attractions of the coloured earth and the waterfall. We arranged for Baboo, a local French speaking taxi driver, to take us to the start of a walk in the Black River National Park. A man who works at the Citronelle Restaurant translated for us. We agreed 600 rupees, about £12, for the taxi fare and looked forward to seeing Baboo the following day. Jeremy felt his ankle was up to a 10k walk, so we met Baboo as arranged and he dropped us off on the top of a high ridge at the start of the Macabee Trail. The first part was easy walking on a fairly flat wide track. Then we started our descent. Steps, cut like a staircase, on a narrow, near vertical path fell away in front of us. Down we went picking our way over tree roots and sliding over rocks, using the trees on either side to steady ourselves. Soon the path opened out again and the rest was an easy, but steep downward walk to the Black River Visitor Centre.
Kathy on the steep part
After two nights in the lagoon at Petite Riviere Noir, we motorsailed to Port Louis and tied up in the yacht harbour. I made use of the hot showers and coloured my hair. It said auburn on the pack but something went wrong and my hair is now dark brown with purple or puce coloured highlights! Thankfully, it’s a colour that washes out after 30 washes. Jeremy says grey is preferable.

New batteries fitted
We collected two new batteries on Tuesday from Rey and Lenferma in Port Louis. Jean-Marie, who is in charge of the battery department took us back to Sal Darago in his 4x4 vehicle and came on board. I think he realised why we had to be so precise about the dimensions of the batteries when he saw the space under our pilot berth where they are situated.
Both Mauritius and Rodrigues have been lovely islands and the people have been very friendly.

Monday 13 August 2012

Mauritius in August




Venezuelan Rose in the Botanical Gardens

We have stayed in Mauritius since early July, enjoying many good walks in the Grand Riviere Noir region. We had to extend my permission to stay in Mauritius as I had been granted 30 days on arrival. Kathy had been given 60 days. This sort of discrepancy is typical of bureaucracies which regard pleasure yachts in the same light as oil tankers. No Captain is allowed more than an initial 30 days, but their crews are allowed 60? So we returned to Port Louis. Here the yacht harbour is inside the new and impressive Caudan Shopping Centre, with guards regularly patrolling. We were here for eight days and managed to extend my stay in Mauritius. I also managed to write three articles for the Westerly Owners Association magazine, covering our voyage from New Zealand to Malaysia. Kathy cleaned inside Sal Darago, while I painted one or two  items.
The diesel fuel oil filter after 300 hours. 
Sanding down the binnacle. 
 The side decks needed attention too. It is not all a holiday!

We left for Grand Baie in the north of Mauritius – about 20 miles – and anchored in amongst all the tourist catamarans. From here we visited a sugar museum and the Botanical Gardens. There is not much scope for walking and, on an island of just over 1 million people, we hear every day of another road death, usually a biker. The weather has been cloudy, with a fair amount of rain. We did venture out 10 miles to the small islands just north of Grand Baie. The “lagoon” was tiny between Gabriel and Flat islands. The entrance was four or five feet deep with wind and swell behind and six tourist catamarans were close astern wanting to join the four cats already anchored there. With our draft of four and a half feet, we turned away to the “sheltered” west of Flat Island. We landed the dinghy and had a walk round, but were disappointed that there was no path to the lighthouse on the hill. On launching the dinghy I caught my left ankle on coral and received a nasty gash. (No more swimming for a week.) We returned safely to Grand Baie with winds up to 30 knots the following day.








This impressive chimney was attached to the Sugar Factory Museum at Pamplemonsse.




The lighthouse at the oddly named Flat Island.