Friday 29 August 2008

Cabo de Roca
Monasterio de Jeronimos
Detail on model

King´s Barge
Torre de Belem

Hot in Lisbon

Today is Thursday 28 September, as I write this aboard Sal Darago, having a frustrating time with Vodephone which has taken over my computer!

We were ready to leave Nazare at 0650 on Monday, but first had to pull in to the local BP garage to fill up with diesel. About an hour later we left proper with approximately 270 litres on board, having been told it was cheaper “up north” in Nazare. It was a pleasant sail down the coast, but despite flying the main and genoa, we could not manage to average 5 knots which was essential for the 70 miles we had to cover in order to get in before dark. On went the engine – still we had plenty of diesel (at €1.38 per litre by the way). It was all plain engining until we passed Cabo Roca, the most westerly point on mainland Europe. Here the wind picked up and Sal Darago lifted her dress to her knees and shot off – well six or seven knots. We arrived at Cascais in good time to anchor in the light. We dragged. We re-anchored and started tea. We dragged. We re-anchored and had tea and went to bed. At 0310 the nice people on the German boat banged on our pushpit and pointed out that we were hitting their yacht. We re-anchored.

In the morning we were up later than intended and really only managed a small re-victualling at the local “Jumbo” supermarket, about €93 worth. It was hot work taking it all back to the boat. However the good news was that the anchor had held.

On Wednesday, we looked for a bakery and a post office with limited success. Sorry anyone who has a birthday within the next month – it’s just how things go. We slept quite a bit and swam and had showers on the back of our boat using our adapted weed killer garden spray. We just use warm water ;-)

Today we set off at 0900 to Lisbon and spent a long, hot day viewing the Maritime Museum of Portugal, the Torre of Belem ( a castle stuck a bit out in the river), but we were too tired/late to go to the Moorish Castelo de Sao Jorge. As soon as we returned to Sal Darago (still anchored – phew) we rested, then jumped in the sea, showered and had supper. Tomorrow I just fancy just resting, swimming and showering, but apparently, there’s quite a lot of Lisbon we have not seen.

Sunday 24 August 2008

Portosin to Povoa to Varzim

Fishing on a Monday
Breakers on Isla Ons
Playa De Silgar Anchoage?
Bayona Castle
Sunset at Povoa De Varzim

Moving nearer to Lisbon

The BBQ, with various nationalities, was our first social evening with other yachties. Some people keep their boats in Povoa de Varzim, finding it cheaper than the south coast of the UK, thanks to Ryanair and more affordable marina charges. Some use their boats as caravans and hardly ever leave the marina. Others were like us, having an extended holiday to cruise further afield, and others were permanent liveaboards, having sold up back home and sailing where the wind took them! Anyway, we had an enjoyable time in good company.

The next day, Friday August 22nd, we were off again at 8.00am with the wind a little stronger than we would have liked, but in the right direction and it was sunny. We had to avoid 15 trawlers with small fishing boats working alongside them but soon we were flying along goose winged. This time we had the genoa poled out on one side and we used our removable inner forestay to hank on a number 2 genoa which we poled out on the other side. By the afternoon, as the wind rose, we had just the genoa and no pole until we were close to the entrance to Aveiro. Once we were out of the swell and breaking waves at the entrance we appeared to be in a wide canal where we enjoyed a short motor to the anchorage at Sao Jacinto.

We are now in Nazare, after a 66 mile leg, in calmer winds but with an uncomfortable swell. We had to motor all the way, except for two hours. We did pole out the genoa, mainly to stop it flogging. We arrived just before dark and decided to check in the next day when the marina office opened. For this oversight, Jeremy was in danger of being arrested. The police woke the marina manager at 6.00am and he knocked on our hull soon after 7.00 and told us off. Another visit from the marina manager meant Jeremy taking all the papers to the office before breakfast and smoothing over the problems we had inadvertently caused. Prison was avoided and Mike and his wife, Sally, were very helpful in the advice they gave us for the rest of our journey. Incidentally, particularly for the IOM relations, Sally Hadley used to nurse in the intensive care unit at the old Nobles Hospital and she and Mike lived in Ramsey for a while. They have been here 10 years but she seemed to recognise the name Denham.

We’re having two nights here. Our next leg is 70 miles, which takes us to Cascais, where we can anchor and from there we can visit Lisbon and prepare for our next 5 day journey to Madeira.

By the way, Jeremy found out that the wifi had accidentally been switched off and after much reading and searching of help messages (don’t laugh, Simon) he’s switched it back on again and we can connect to the Internet if we put the laptop on top of the spray hood. Should we buy a Hawking aerial?

Adeus.

Saturday 23 August 2008

On to Portugal

Today is Thursday 21 August. Since we went to Santiago De Compostela, on Saturday, we have had no luck with the laptop connecting to WiFi, despite being in marinas with WiFI working. This I put down to Simon who clearly has not correctly installed the connection algorisms ;-) However it is immensely frustrating as we know we have unread emails.

On Sunday we went to the supermarket in Portosin; it was closed. We tried to use a washing machine; it was broken. We tried to use the internet which had worked the previous evening; it would not connect. We had a lovely lunch in the cockpit. They must bake bread even on a Sunday.

Early, well 10 am on Monday, we were off to the super mercado for supplies. By eleven we had left Portosin (Port of Sin?), off south towards our goal from Cork – Bayona. The seas were again big and tired Kathy and I. I looked for a possible anchorage en route and came up with a spot off a beach on the Isla Salvora. Kathy noticed that it was a favourite destination for naturists, but to be honest, I hadn’t noticed. As we approached the north end of Isla Salvora, the huge Atlantic swell was crashing its potent fury on the rocks and stacks which it had already separated from the main body of the island. Hardly surprisingly, the beach anchorage was untenable and I had to look elsewhere – for an anchorage. Just East of Portonovo, there was a massive tourist beach with an anchor so we sailed the ten miles or so and anchored there for the night. The swell did not abate and we rocked and rolled all night.

Bleary eyed we set off for Bayona and by 1250 we were tied up on a pontoon to Porto Deportivo Baiona, having filled up with diesel. That afternoon we went shopping, discovered that postage stamps are sold by Tobacconists and that there is only one post box in Bayona and it is not close to the marina. This is weird (I mean do they not write letters? – Is DoDo part Spanish?). Kathy insisted that as the winds were forecast from the North that we should leave the next morning.

We left the next morning, in very light winds and had a smashing day. Eventually we had the main fully out with a preventer and the genoa poled out goosewinged and were cracking along at 5 to 6 knots when we stopped. I tried to turn the helm, but nothing happened. Gradually the wind backed the main and we were in a pickle. Eventually the genoa was furled and the main went through the wind. There was no lobster pot or any other reason for our sudden stoppage and we continued without fuss to Povoa De Varzim. Another marina but at only €15, we decided to stay two nights.

We have been away from home now for 4 weeks. Kathy would have started her new term and we have sailed 1044 nautical miles on the log. The major frustration of the trip has been this computer’s inability to log on to the WIFI when it is available as we feel we should be more in touch with everyone. So if this gets “published” sorry for not keeping in touch.

Today was standard stuff. Look around the port. Find a super market – but the Mercado Municipal looked far more interesting with amazing fish stalls and such bright and inviting fruit and vegetable stalls that it was hard to resist. But really I cannot mime quarter of a pound of lamb stew please. And how much is 250 kilos of ham (or should that be grams?) – I seem to remember a similar problem with Parmesan Cheese, Ritchie. Showers, a frustrating connection to the internet which this computer disconnected and started to use our home dial up – it was worse than that because I asked Kathy to come off the other Marina office machine as “we were connected” and someone was waiting – and finally a barbecue with a large number of the sailors here at this friendly marina. And now we prepare our route for tomorrow; possibly to an anchorage about 45 NM away or maybe another marina after 15 hours of sailing. So far we have met kindness and cooperation. As one lady put it – “We are all Europeans”. I miss the quiet of the Scottish anchorages, but not the midges.

Adeus

Pictures to go with Santiago!

La Catedral

The Altar

The Horse Fountain

Detail on the Tower

Thursday 21 August 2008


We were meant to be leaving Portosin by bus early on Saturday to visit Santiago De Compostela, but at 0400 a small gale passed through necessitating Jeremy adjusting the fenders and removing the Hydrovane wind thingy. At 0645 when Kathy was supposed to be getting up, it was still lashing down and blowing a hoolie. We slept on.

By ten ish we had found a bus stop “Donda est l’autoboos a Compostela, por favor?” The bus came. We arrived at Noya and immediately caught the bus to Compostela. At this point we discovered the map was …. On the boat. The nearest Tourist Info office was the other side of the fairly large and decidedly hilly city. Fortunately a bus information office had a map and we set off on our Pilgrim’s Route to the Catedral of Saint Iago (St James). It was raining and the streets were narrow and dark. Eventually the sun came out, we crossed a busy road and entered a different, almost medieval, centre. Every building felt ancient and the streets were paved in flag stones. There was a maze of illogical streets which led into small “squares” often with seven or so exits. All very confusing. And then in front of us was the University of Compostela and opposite the Catedral.
After a little snack, we joined a short queue to enter the shrine. The queue grew longer. (actually the Lambton worm would have had difficulty in keeping pace – North East reference). The doors were flung open and in we all went. It was very crowded – rather noisy and “Catholic-ly” impressive. {This may be edited by the PC policia} There were many corners of interest and it was lovely to see a baby about to be christened in one of the side chapels.

Outside again, Jeremy was approached by a young woman and a clip board. He dutifully filled in his name and address and came to the last column – “donacion”. A Frenchman came to his rescue and told the woman she was a “thief” and he would get the “policia”. Jeremy crossed his name off and the woman gave the Frenchman some choice advice, which one did not have to be Spanish to understand, but she did disappear sharpish. On reflection, Jeremy decided filling in one’s name and address, whilst on holiday, could lead to a criminal organisation to burgle one’s home wherever it was in the world. Is this a good business idea? More sleepless nights.

We did a turn round the Catedral taking in the sights. The fabulous Horse Fountain; the myriad buskers; the impoverished begging woman sitting dejectedly outside the Catedral entrance; the winos; the throng of international tourists; as well as the truly inspiring architecture.

After a coffee we caught the bus back to Portosin and at last managed to connect to the internet. Hasta luego.

Saturday 16 August 2008

Pictures at last!

Ready to Leave Hesketh Bank.

Kathy at Drake's Pool, Crosshaven

Sunset before the gale.

Near miss after VHF call.

The End of the World

We left La Coruna at 0830, hoping to do a big day’s sail to Portosin about 90 miles. The wind had other ideas and we bashed forever into a relentless head wind again. Kathy and I were getting rather fed up with regular sea showers as almost every wave broke over the sprayhood. So by the time we had passed Cabo Villano (our waypoint from Cork approximately one week ago!), we sensibly decided to put into Ria de Camarinas. In the southern corner, there was a small fishing town and port, well sheltered from the southerly wind. As we put in to the harbour, a local fishing boat pointed out a buoy we could use and we gratefully rested the night there.

As dawn broke, we slept on. Well it’s meant to be a kind of holiday isn’t it?
HAPPY BIRTHDAY ELLEN (Kathy’s Mum).
Anyhows, by 0645 Kathy was limbering up and I followed slowly. We left at 0830 and set out into the Atlantic again. This time there was little wind, but we able to pass close to the famous Cabo Finisterre, the End of The Known World for the Romans. We had a gloriously smooth passage to Portosin, where we are in a busy marina, with some new found Norwegian friends next to us (We met them in La Coruna). We’ve eaten, showered and hopefully soon we will be able to access the internet, before bussing off to the THIRD MOST IMPORTANT CHRISTIAN PLACE IN THE WORLD tomorrow.

On an editorial note – if you can see comment somewhere on this page, it would be really great to hear from you. Just click on the word comment and you can write what you want. This will let us know that only Simon and Emily are reading it! Just a word of warning for those of you unfamiliar with blogging – the site can be read by anyone, so don’t leave us your bank details. (Send them in a letter ;-))

The Rain in Spain falls mainly on Sal Darago!

It’s warmer in Spain than in Scotland but it still rains and you need full ocean waterproofs when sailing to keep warm and dry!

After 9 days waiting for the wind to stop blowing from the south the forecast told us northerlies were expected and might last for several days. There was another front lurking in the Atlantic but we thought if we could get as far south as possible we should miss the worst of it. We left Drake’s Pool on 7th August, said a quick hello to Jonny and Kate in Newtsville, who are sailing from Fleetwood to the Caribbean and beyond, and ventured out to sea again.

Soon we had the ghoster and the genoa poled out and the engine on making all speed southwards to avoid the gale forecast for Sole. I was on watch when our Neco autopilot stopped working! Fortunately, it was just the fuse that had popped, but we would have to be careful not to put too much stress on it especially in a following sea. By the afternoon the wind had backed to the west and strengthened. The poles came down, the ghoster was stowed and we were close hauled with the main sail and the genoa only and no engine. By evening we had two reefs in the main, the Hydrovane wind vane was steering and we were both feeling seasick.

Lighter winds returned the next day but they continued to back until we had 20 knots from the south and we were 34 degrees off our course. The next day, Saturday 9th August, we were pleased to have 20 knots of wind. We recorded much stronger ones, up to 32 knots, from the SSW. Many waves came into the cockpit and over the roof. A large green ship came up behind us on a collision course. I called her on the VHF and she altered course to avoid us. We switched on our tricolour navigation light and nothing happened, so we had to use our bow and stern lights with a masthead light and keep a close watch on the battery levels. The next day, Sunday, was calmer with blue skies and sunshine. I stopped taking Stugeron and felt that I had my “sea legs” at last. I ate Cornflakes for the first time since leaving Ireland. I think this was the best day, the only incident being the collapse of the Hydrovane at 6am, on my watch again. I had to wake Jeremy up. He discovered the collapse was due to a loose nut and correct steerage was soon returned.

Simon’s birthday began with a beautiful night sail with calm seas and the moon lighting a pathway for us. By 9.00am it was raining as heavily as it did on his 21st birthday last year and we both said we could have gone north for this sort of weather! Jeremy made the mistake of shaking one reef out of the main sail. One and a half hours later he was struggling to put it back in. We had to call another ship on the VHF, which was on a collision course with us, and it was worrying when the helmsman said he could not see our white sails against the white sea! We were in gale and near gale conditions making no progress south or west, in danger of being run down by massive container ships so the only sensible decision was to make for La Corunna, Spain, about 60 miles to the east. We certainly started moving, surfing down waves with a following sea and winds of 25-30 knots. Just after midnight we had to take the main sail down as the wind shifted and made a mockery of a “controlled” gybe. In the end we had bare poles and the engine on as we rolled our way to La Corunna.

We are enjoying our second day here in sunshine, trying to learn a little Spanish, checking the boat over, shopping and washing. Tomorrow we might set off again, coast hopping this time. I fancy visiting Santiago de Compostello, especially as our church in Wrightington, St James the Great, is named after the same apostle. Until next time hasta luego!

Tuesday 5 August 2008

Mostly Ready to go.

So we have spent a day trailing around Cork in an effort to buy a new banjo bolt for the fuel filter without success. We are nearly back at the boat and are hoping that the weather will permit us to leave on Wednesday, or at least before the end of the week. We are both well, but despite the beauty and safety of Drake's Pool, Harbour Rot is beginning to set in. So fingers crossed that the forecast for the next few days is good. Unfortunately the forecast for Sole an area just to the South of us is " South Westerly 5 to 7 perhaps gale 8 later". Maybe we shall try on Thursday and have a day on board relaxing tomorrow.

We have a picture or two, but they were left on the boat - sorry. We are considerably better at walking and reading bus timetables. Interestingly, motor factors are the same in England - long wait and they don't have the exact part required ;-D