Rough weather
Bread making in 24 knots of wind
Goose winged
Flying fish
Too close
Saturday 27 December 2008
Crossing the Atlantic
We left La Restinga, El Hierro at 2pm on 1st December. Two things had put us off. On our shore side there had previously been a yacht called “Argo”. The man and wife crew had attempted the Atlantic last year, 2007. Six days out from Barbados they had sunk to be rescued by an Irish Yacht with six chaps on board. Lucky them and brave them to be trying again so soon (where do they get the money?), but it did put Kathy and I off a bit. To seaward was a very pleasant El Hierrion in a yacht called “Aventura”. He informed us that the next few days were going to be very rough.
Our watch system was:
0300 - 0800 Kathy
0800 - 1000 Jeremy (J to make sandwiches)
1000 - 1300 Kathy (K to make bread every second day){J to cook hot lunch}
1300 – 1600 Jeremy
1600 – 1800 Kathy
1800 – 2000 Jeremy (both to eat sandwiches and have confab)
2000 – 2200 Kathy
2200 – 0300 Jeremy
On the whole these watches worked quite well and we each got used to our own times. When sailing, the Hydrovane steered. Under engine (less than two hours a day and often not that with a following wind) Neco, the electronic autopilot, steered. The least distance run on one day was 101 nautical miles. The best day was 134 nm on the log and 141 nm on the GPS. The discrepancy being the current. We saw two full sunsets where one sees the sun going below the horizon and one sunrise. The rest of the time the sun was obscured by cloud. When we set out, we had full wet gear on at night as well as three layers of clothing. By the time we arrived in Barbados, clothes were far too uncomfortable and shorts and a tee shirt were just bearable at night! And so to a few of the highlights?
On the first night as we drew away from land, Jeremy was on his rest period and it was beginning to go dark when the bilge alarm went ( this is an adaption from a potty which “sang” when Emily performed). As J peered into the engine compartment, he could see the water was indeed up to a dangerous level. The Bilge pumps dealt with the water quickly, but the hole, ingress was not evident. It was not coming from forward of the engine; the engine was not gushing seawater(J had tasted it); the only other possibility was a stern gland failure. Rescue and return to The Canaries flashed before J’s fertile imagination as he carefully ripped the floor boards up in the back cabin. After a few moments, it became clear that the stern gland had become undone. Quickly turning the two pieces together the flow of water ceased. PHEW! Kathy and Jeremy had checked this within the last week, but clearly had not tightened it up correctly. It was a valuable lesson. At midnight a gang of dolphins played in the phosphorescence around the bows. They helped calm Jeremy.
The following day a large wave broke under the boat and the binoculars which live on the chart table, on a non slip pad, were thrown to the floor – no damage, but the conditions were rough. Four days into the passage Kathy noted “0404 - horrendous. Gusts up to thirty knots. Broached I think. J up to reduce sail…. Survived the night.” By 1400 the next day we were “unable to keep course – basically running before”. With only one third of the genoa out we were going five knots and the wind behind recording 20+knots. Many of the waves were coming from the side not rolling swells from behind as we had expected. For lunch we started a mince stew when we left El Hierro. This was added to on a daily basis. Unfortunately J spilt it into the cockpit on the fifth day. We scooped it up and heated it for 15 minutes. It was delicious. That afternoon, J broke the toilet seat (connection?).
On the sixth day the full main and genoa were flown for the first time. J had a shower on the stern and K asked “Should I be worried”. Later a pod of dolphins came to play and some stayed to hear Kathy’s second and third songs. The wind died away and for two days we moved slowly along with the wind being knocked out of the sails by the rocking and rolling motion. Midnight on the eighth, J killed a cockroach(beggar we thought we’d got rid of them).
On the ninth, the winds were very light. Kathy moved into her bikini. The ghoster and genoa were poled out either side. A ship was sighted and when called on VHF, gave us the weather forecast. The solar panels stopped charging as it went above 90F and they were a bug… to fix. K and J went for a swim in the ocean. Most refreshing. That night most of Kathy’s watch was disturbed by lightning flashes afar off. At this stage we had an orange disaster – only four out of ten oranges were not completely green with mould of course. Yack.
In order to fly the ghoster and genoa we were going further off our course. On day 12 the wind began to freshen and at 1520 we were 43 miles north of our course and had the main with two reefs in it and one third of the genoa out. By 1900 it is described as a fairground ride and at 2000 the original spinnaker pole had snapped in two like a twig. There was no other damage and the pole was recovered. By midnight the winds were up to 25 knots from behind. We completed the fastest day so far with 134 miles on Garmin and were halfway. The boat’s speed was at least 5 knots with just the mainsail with two reefs. At 0900 Kathy felt that she was in some kind of dreadful disaster movie, but nobody would shout “Cut”. By 1100 however the bread was made and in the oven. At 1400 Kathy was thrown out of her cockpit seat as she was trying to eat lunch. “ The noise of the breaking waves is thunderous”. And later “Night time again, rainy, no stars, no moon, bumpy, Very Bumpy”. At 2200 28 knots of East wind. And at midnight “12.1 knots down a wave on Garmin”; this with only the mainsail which was reefed twice. At 0200 a huge wave came over the stern and right into the cockpit. There was one board in the companionway but the water went into the engine compartment (down the air vent) into the locker and into the saloon through the vents. The cockpit was flooded for a couple of minutes until the drains coped. Later J discovered the wave had soaked quilt and bedding under the vent in the stern cabin. All this had to be cleared up. Kathy, badly bruised, resorted to wearing hip protectors (from riding horses).
By 0300 on the 15th, the waves were not as large but more vicious! J finished reading “The Crossing” by Fogle and Cracknell who rowed across the Atlantic. J was very pleased not to be rowing. During this day the winds died down to 12 knots astern. By the end of the next day the wind was back up to 18 knots – “raining, rough. Furled genoa, gybed the main, wave soaked me.” And into the next watch, “ boat still being thrown violently down some breaking waves”. During the day it was now not possible to stay out in the full sun, even with sun cream and a small shade could be put up if the main was out to starboard. The rain showers became more frequent and very heavy.
By the afternoon of the 18th, the wind died away and the engine went on for 36 hours. On the morning of the 19th day we overtook a yacht slatting about in the light winds. Despite a fan being placed on the solar panel heat sink, the temp went above 90F and it cut out again. The sun beat down and the heat from the engine was overpowering. We decided not to turn the radiators on. At 1600 we cut the engine and went for our second swim. Delicious. At 2300 the wind came from the WEST … unheard of. By now J was filling every spare space with calculations as to whether we had enough diesel to motor to Barbados. Whichever way he calculated it, we were still 50 litres or 20 hours short. At 1000 on the 20th, the engine was turned off (peace at last) and we continued at 4 or 5 knots helped by the Trans Equatorial current. On the 21st. we had our fastest day with wind speeds of approximately 12 knots.
At 1720 K awoke J, on the 22nd. Day, as she was unhappy with a large ship dead ahead. Neither J nor K could be sure which direction the large ship was going in. J used VHF but got no response. J told K to start the engine and K confirmed the ship was larger thus coming directly at Sal Darago. As a sailing yacht, Sal Darago has right of way, but neither of us wished to prove anything. Hydrovane was pinned and J steered due North for half a mile. The ship passed half a mile south and J used VHF to call “HISPAINA SPIRIT” to explain his actions in avoiding collision. The officer replied this time saying that “Sal Darago” had not been visible on the radar and did we have a reflector? J explained we did and wished the officer a safe passage!
On day 23 at 0800, “Land Ahoy”. So strange to see land after three weeks. And soon houses became visible. J used VHF to report our forthcoming arrival, but the port of Bridgetown did not respond until we were on their battlements – sorry breakwater. And then we docked with four other cruise ships mostly with red ensigns flying. “Queen Victoria”, “Caribbean Princess”, “Ocean Village”, “Celebrity Express”, two tugs, a pilot boat and “Sal Darago” filled Bridgetown Harbour.
Quite a trip and not one for the faint hearted. Now for some rest and relaxation, Maan.
Our watch system was:
0300 - 0800 Kathy
0800 - 1000 Jeremy (J to make sandwiches)
1000 - 1300 Kathy (K to make bread every second day){J to cook hot lunch}
1300 – 1600 Jeremy
1600 – 1800 Kathy
1800 – 2000 Jeremy (both to eat sandwiches and have confab)
2000 – 2200 Kathy
2200 – 0300 Jeremy
On the whole these watches worked quite well and we each got used to our own times. When sailing, the Hydrovane steered. Under engine (less than two hours a day and often not that with a following wind) Neco, the electronic autopilot, steered. The least distance run on one day was 101 nautical miles. The best day was 134 nm on the log and 141 nm on the GPS. The discrepancy being the current. We saw two full sunsets where one sees the sun going below the horizon and one sunrise. The rest of the time the sun was obscured by cloud. When we set out, we had full wet gear on at night as well as three layers of clothing. By the time we arrived in Barbados, clothes were far too uncomfortable and shorts and a tee shirt were just bearable at night! And so to a few of the highlights?
On the first night as we drew away from land, Jeremy was on his rest period and it was beginning to go dark when the bilge alarm went ( this is an adaption from a potty which “sang” when Emily performed). As J peered into the engine compartment, he could see the water was indeed up to a dangerous level. The Bilge pumps dealt with the water quickly, but the hole, ingress was not evident. It was not coming from forward of the engine; the engine was not gushing seawater(J had tasted it); the only other possibility was a stern gland failure. Rescue and return to The Canaries flashed before J’s fertile imagination as he carefully ripped the floor boards up in the back cabin. After a few moments, it became clear that the stern gland had become undone. Quickly turning the two pieces together the flow of water ceased. PHEW! Kathy and Jeremy had checked this within the last week, but clearly had not tightened it up correctly. It was a valuable lesson. At midnight a gang of dolphins played in the phosphorescence around the bows. They helped calm Jeremy.
The following day a large wave broke under the boat and the binoculars which live on the chart table, on a non slip pad, were thrown to the floor – no damage, but the conditions were rough. Four days into the passage Kathy noted “0404 - horrendous. Gusts up to thirty knots. Broached I think. J up to reduce sail…. Survived the night.” By 1400 the next day we were “unable to keep course – basically running before”. With only one third of the genoa out we were going five knots and the wind behind recording 20+knots. Many of the waves were coming from the side not rolling swells from behind as we had expected. For lunch we started a mince stew when we left El Hierro. This was added to on a daily basis. Unfortunately J spilt it into the cockpit on the fifth day. We scooped it up and heated it for 15 minutes. It was delicious. That afternoon, J broke the toilet seat (connection?).
On the sixth day the full main and genoa were flown for the first time. J had a shower on the stern and K asked “Should I be worried”. Later a pod of dolphins came to play and some stayed to hear Kathy’s second and third songs. The wind died away and for two days we moved slowly along with the wind being knocked out of the sails by the rocking and rolling motion. Midnight on the eighth, J killed a cockroach(beggar we thought we’d got rid of them).
On the ninth, the winds were very light. Kathy moved into her bikini. The ghoster and genoa were poled out either side. A ship was sighted and when called on VHF, gave us the weather forecast. The solar panels stopped charging as it went above 90F and they were a bug… to fix. K and J went for a swim in the ocean. Most refreshing. That night most of Kathy’s watch was disturbed by lightning flashes afar off. At this stage we had an orange disaster – only four out of ten oranges were not completely green with mould of course. Yack.
In order to fly the ghoster and genoa we were going further off our course. On day 12 the wind began to freshen and at 1520 we were 43 miles north of our course and had the main with two reefs in it and one third of the genoa out. By 1900 it is described as a fairground ride and at 2000 the original spinnaker pole had snapped in two like a twig. There was no other damage and the pole was recovered. By midnight the winds were up to 25 knots from behind. We completed the fastest day so far with 134 miles on Garmin and were halfway. The boat’s speed was at least 5 knots with just the mainsail with two reefs. At 0900 Kathy felt that she was in some kind of dreadful disaster movie, but nobody would shout “Cut”. By 1100 however the bread was made and in the oven. At 1400 Kathy was thrown out of her cockpit seat as she was trying to eat lunch. “ The noise of the breaking waves is thunderous”. And later “Night time again, rainy, no stars, no moon, bumpy, Very Bumpy”. At 2200 28 knots of East wind. And at midnight “12.1 knots down a wave on Garmin”; this with only the mainsail which was reefed twice. At 0200 a huge wave came over the stern and right into the cockpit. There was one board in the companionway but the water went into the engine compartment (down the air vent) into the locker and into the saloon through the vents. The cockpit was flooded for a couple of minutes until the drains coped. Later J discovered the wave had soaked quilt and bedding under the vent in the stern cabin. All this had to be cleared up. Kathy, badly bruised, resorted to wearing hip protectors (from riding horses).
By 0300 on the 15th, the waves were not as large but more vicious! J finished reading “The Crossing” by Fogle and Cracknell who rowed across the Atlantic. J was very pleased not to be rowing. During this day the winds died down to 12 knots astern. By the end of the next day the wind was back up to 18 knots – “raining, rough. Furled genoa, gybed the main, wave soaked me.” And into the next watch, “ boat still being thrown violently down some breaking waves”. During the day it was now not possible to stay out in the full sun, even with sun cream and a small shade could be put up if the main was out to starboard. The rain showers became more frequent and very heavy.
By the afternoon of the 18th, the wind died away and the engine went on for 36 hours. On the morning of the 19th day we overtook a yacht slatting about in the light winds. Despite a fan being placed on the solar panel heat sink, the temp went above 90F and it cut out again. The sun beat down and the heat from the engine was overpowering. We decided not to turn the radiators on. At 1600 we cut the engine and went for our second swim. Delicious. At 2300 the wind came from the WEST … unheard of. By now J was filling every spare space with calculations as to whether we had enough diesel to motor to Barbados. Whichever way he calculated it, we were still 50 litres or 20 hours short. At 1000 on the 20th, the engine was turned off (peace at last) and we continued at 4 or 5 knots helped by the Trans Equatorial current. On the 21st. we had our fastest day with wind speeds of approximately 12 knots.
At 1720 K awoke J, on the 22nd. Day, as she was unhappy with a large ship dead ahead. Neither J nor K could be sure which direction the large ship was going in. J used VHF but got no response. J told K to start the engine and K confirmed the ship was larger thus coming directly at Sal Darago. As a sailing yacht, Sal Darago has right of way, but neither of us wished to prove anything. Hydrovane was pinned and J steered due North for half a mile. The ship passed half a mile south and J used VHF to call “HISPAINA SPIRIT” to explain his actions in avoiding collision. The officer replied this time saying that “Sal Darago” had not been visible on the radar and did we have a reflector? J explained we did and wished the officer a safe passage!
On day 23 at 0800, “Land Ahoy”. So strange to see land after three weeks. And soon houses became visible. J used VHF to report our forthcoming arrival, but the port of Bridgetown did not respond until we were on their battlements – sorry breakwater. And then we docked with four other cruise ships mostly with red ensigns flying. “Queen Victoria”, “Caribbean Princess”, “Ocean Village”, “Celebrity Express”, two tugs, a pilot boat and “Sal Darago” filled Bridgetown Harbour.
Quite a trip and not one for the faint hearted. Now for some rest and relaxation, Maan.
Thursday 25 December 2008
Barbados
Happy Christmas.
We arrived safely in Barbados on 23 December in the afternoon. Dodgy connection in Bridgetown so have a great holiday.
We arrived safely in Barbados on 23 December in the afternoon. Dodgy connection in Bridgetown so have a great holiday.
Thursday 27 November 2008
The Last Port in Europe
Today is Wednesday 26th November and we have been in El Hierro for 6 days, 5 of them in Puerto La Estaca and 1 day and night in La Restinga.
We left the marina at Santa Cruz, La Palma, remembering to take our floppa stoppers on board. When we left La Gomera we motored for an hour before realising they were streaming out behind us like sea anchors. (Floppa stoppers look like traffic cones which you attach to lines and hang down both sides of the boat. They reduce the rocking motion when you are at anchor. You don’t normally need them in a marina!) At Tazacorte, we had been told there was a pontoon berth for us and this time there was with electricity and water AND the showers were HOT! We enjoyed 3 calm nights protected from the NE wind and good weather. The only drawback was the near vertical climb of about 2 kilometres to the town. Here we found 3 well stocked supermarkets, lots of other shops and a banana plantation – and it was downhill all the way back with our shopping.
We used two methods of getting on and off Sal Darago – rowing ashore in the dinghy or climbing up or down the rigging on “steps” made from pieces of string stretched across the shrouds.
We left the marina at Santa Cruz, La Palma, remembering to take our floppa stoppers on board. When we left La Gomera we motored for an hour before realising they were streaming out behind us like sea anchors. (Floppa stoppers look like traffic cones which you attach to lines and hang down both sides of the boat. They reduce the rocking motion when you are at anchor. You don’t normally need them in a marina!) At Tazacorte, we had been told there was a pontoon berth for us and this time there was with electricity and water AND the showers were HOT! We enjoyed 3 calm nights protected from the NE wind and good weather. The only drawback was the near vertical climb of about 2 kilometres to the town. Here we found 3 well stocked supermarkets, lots of other shops and a banana plantation – and it was downhill all the way back with our shopping.
We left Puerto Tazacorte, La Palma at 6.00am on 20/11/08 and completed the 54 miles to Puerto de La Estaca, El Hierro by 4.00pm. The weather was a mix of headwinds and following winds, sunshine and cloud, squalls all around but thankfully missing us and a cold wind. Jeremy stoically wore his shorts but I wore long trousers and three layers under my ocean waterproof sailing jacket! It took us about an hour to tie up to the inner breakwater in the sheltered harbour at La Estaca. There was a severe 
shortage of ladders and an overhang of different heights along the concrete wall but eventually we secured Sal Darago behind a big German yacht, which appeared to have everything on board, including a washing machine!
shortage of ladders and an overhang of different heights along the concrete wall but eventually we secured Sal Darago behind a big German yacht, which appeared to have everything on board, including a washing machine! 
We used two methods of getting on and off Sal Darago – rowing ashore in the dinghy or climbing up or down the rigging on “steps” made from pieces of string stretched across the shrouds.There are very few British people living in El Hierro. Kevin and his German wife, Gabby, gave us useful information about the island the day we arrived. The next day Bob and Liz took us to the 4 star Paramor hotel in their car where we met a couple (Fredo – American born German - and Catie - French) from London who were staying with a German, (Gabriella) who was going out with a Spaniard, (Jose)! They all spoke excellent English and 8 people of 4 nationalities sat down together for drinks on the terrace overlooking the sea. How random is that? That evening Fredo, Catie, Gabriella and Jose arrived at Sal Darago and we enjoyed chatting further and showing them around our 36ft home.
There was nothing in La Estaca except a café/bar, some toilets, a water tap behind the bar and booking offices for the ferries. However, new facilities are being built (originally scheduled for 2005). We took the bus to the nearest town, Valverde, the capital, about 8 kilometres away. All bus journeys cost 1 euro but the times are not always convenient. Twice we had to catch the 8.00am bus!
There was nothing in La Estaca except a café/bar, some toilets, a water tap behind the bar and booking offices for the ferries. However, new facilities are being built (originally scheduled for 2005). We took the bus to the nearest town, Valverde, the capital, about 8 kilometres away. All bus journeys cost 1 euro but the times are not always convenient. Twice we had to catch the 8.00am bus!
It was only a 12 mile sail down to La Restinga which does have pontoon berths but no toilets, water or showers. The boatyard has a tap but they do not recommend drinking the water. Fortunately, both supermarkets sell bottled water, are quite well stocked and there is a panderaria (bakery) and a fresh produce mercado on Fridays – no bus ride needed!
We are very conscious of being at the end of the world (before Columbus) and the zero meridian for about 300 years (before Greenwich). Ahead lies an Atlantic crossing of over 2000miles and 20-30 days at sea. Hundreds of yachts cross at this time – 218 have left already on the Atlantic Rally for Cruisers – and every two years people row across, so maybe we are not completely mad! I’ll let you know in about a month’s time, from Barbados.
Hasta la vista amigos!
We are very conscious of being at the end of the world (before Columbus) and the zero meridian for about 300 years (before Greenwich). Ahead lies an Atlantic crossing of over 2000miles and 20-30 days at sea. Hundreds of yachts cross at this time – 218 have left already on the Atlantic Rally for Cruisers – and every two years people row across, so maybe we are not completely mad! I’ll let you know in about a month’s time, from Barbados.
Hasta la vista amigos!
Saturday 22 November 2008
El Hierro
We are now in El Hierro with about nine days left before we cross the Atlantic. Internet has been difficult to get hold of, so just a quickie to let you all know we are safe. Hopefully we can find somewhere to post a proper blog in our last port - La restinga.
Off shopping now and to catch last bus back at 11 am. It's Saturday and everything closes at lunchtime until Monday!
Off shopping now and to catch last bus back at 11 am. It's Saturday and everything closes at lunchtime until Monday!
Saturday 15 November 2008
La Palma
As I write it is Saturday evening, 15 November. We are in Santa Cruz, La Palma and have been here nearly one week. We left San Sebastian last Saturday and, as predicted, moved around to Puerto de Vueltas on the West side of the island. Kathy and I were both quite upset passing the places where we had enjoyed Emily and Ben’s company. At Vueltas we snorkelled. Kathy nearly drowned as her mask filled with water, so I suggested we moved onto a shallow reef. At this point a huge wave picked us both up and threw us along the said reef. Fortunately it did not damage either of us and we both swam like mackerel for deeper water. On our return to Sal Darago, we had warm showers on the stern in the evening sunshine, followed by a delicious beef stew. What a relaxed life!
The alarms blasted at 0500 and as we groggily prepared breakfast, the Calor Gas ran out. Having changed the bottle for the one we managed to buy for €40 from Enrique in Las Palmas, we left at 0610 and arrived in our fifth Canary Island at 1410. We had been accompanied part of the way by ten or more meretricious dolphins which tried to outdo each other’s tricks at the bow. Here in San Sebastian there was a NEW, EMPTY marina, BUT (there always is one) each of the few yachts already parked took up TWO berths. This was because there was a constant, large swell.
Having booked a hire car we went on to do some light shopping on Wednesday morning. In the afternoon we refuelled using one of our four 5 gallon “spare” drums. I then checked the stainless steel wire rigging (standing rigging), undoing and then tightening every rigging screw. Kathy meanwhile checked our tins in order to ensure we have enough food for 30 days minimum. The next day, at last we were mobile in a motor. The first job was to refill the GAS!! Regular readers will remember the SAGA (incidentally the Saga cruise ship called here earlier in the week) concerning the previous refill. So we drove two miles to the Disa Gas plant, rang the door bell, asked the man to refill the bottle and two minutes later he returned with the full bottle and asked us for …. For…. FOR….€5 … YES …€5.
The alarms blasted at 0500 and as we groggily prepared breakfast, the Calor Gas ran out. Having changed the bottle for the one we managed to buy for €40 from Enrique in Las Palmas, we left at 0610 and arrived in our fifth Canary Island at 1410. We had been accompanied part of the way by ten or more meretricious dolphins which tried to outdo each other’s tricks at the bow. Here in San Sebastian there was a NEW, EMPTY marina, BUT (there always is one) each of the few yachts already parked took up TWO berths. This was because there was a constant, large swell.
After logging in on Monday, we used a hose pipe to wash the main and genoa, while I scrubbed both sides vigorously. We left the two sails up to dry in the pleasantly warm sunshine. Just before lunch, the wind got up and we struggled to get both sails down and in their bags, but we managed it. In the afternoon, we put the old genoa on. Kathy then went for a recce and some food and I put the old mainsail on. We now have our two old sails on so it does not matter so much if they chafe on the Atlantic crossing. It was dark when these jobs were completed.
Jobs continued on Tuesday with the attempted replacement of the diesel fuel oil filter housing including using the TWO, NEW, CORRECT BANJO BOLTS, which Emily had caressingly brought from the UK. It took a while as I had to change the gearbox oil too, but at the end of the morning all was fitted and Kathy who had twice gone to the local yacht club for a hot shower returned (unwashed – as the showers were cold) marvelled at the new leakless BANJO bolts. She demanded the engine was run for half an hour as a test and strangely disappeared into the hot boat shower while the test was being carried out. A much cleaner Kathy emerged from the shower declaring the test run a complete success. In the afternoon, we strolled around the traditional Santa Cruz streets finding another Santa Maria, but this one was stuck into the pavement and was closed due to refurbishment. I then went to the yacht club and enjoyed a lovely HOT shower – apparently only the female showers are cold ;-0
Having booked a hire car we went on to do some light shopping on Wednesday morning. In the afternoon we refuelled using one of our four 5 gallon “spare” drums. I then checked the stainless steel wire rigging (standing rigging), undoing and then tightening every rigging screw. Kathy meanwhile checked our tins in order to ensure we have enough food for 30 days minimum. The next day, at last we were mobile in a motor. The first job was to refill the GAS!! Regular readers will remember the SAGA (incidentally the Saga cruise ship called here earlier in the week) concerning the previous refill. So we drove two miles to the Disa Gas plant, rang the door bell, asked the man to refill the bottle and two minutes later he returned with the full bottle and asked us for …. For…. FOR….€5 … YES …€5.
We returned to Sal Darago in shock and had to 
have coffee and toast before driving 2426 metres up an incredibly tortuous mountain to La Caldera De Taburiente, allegedly the largest volcanic crater in the world. At about 1000 metres we drove into cloud and visibility reduced to 50 metres. Well I suppose we had been lucky with the gas. It was galling to read in the brochures “Its unpolluted and extraordinarily clear skies have made it possible the island to become an ideal place for astrophysics.” (No error in the quote!) However at about 1800 metres we emerged above the cloud into clear skies. It really was like driving in the sky. You can actually park at the top of the mountain and look down on a dozen international observatories including one operated remotely from Edinburgh University. An
d then there was the volcanic crater itself. Sorry Saucepan (near Tobermory) you just wouldn’t get a look in. STUNNING. We continued across the island round frenetic bends and crazy gradients until we reached the West coast, at which point Kathy decided to drive. The roads were less bendy, but more crowded and built up. We started to ascend the mountain again, further South when suddenly we were swallowed by a tunnel, down which we travelled for several kilometres (they are a bit like short miles for the truly English readers). Emerging from the sphincter on the East coast, it was dark and raining. We beat a hasty retreat to the boat and put the tent over the cockpit to reduce the effects of the rain.
have coffee and toast before driving 2426 metres up an incredibly tortuous mountain to La Caldera De Taburiente, allegedly the largest volcanic crater in the world. At about 1000 metres we drove into cloud and visibility reduced to 50 metres. Well I suppose we had been lucky with the gas. It was galling to read in the brochures “Its unpolluted and extraordinarily clear skies have made it possible the island to become an ideal place for astrophysics.” (No error in the quote!) However at about 1800 metres we emerged above the cloud into clear skies. It really was like driving in the sky. You can actually park at the top of the mountain and look down on a dozen international observatories including one operated remotely from Edinburgh University. An
d then there was the volcanic crater itself. Sorry Saucepan (near Tobermory) you just wouldn’t get a look in. STUNNING. We continued across the island round frenetic bends and crazy gradients until we reached the West coast, at which point Kathy decided to drive. The roads were less bendy, but more crowded and built up. We started to ascend the mountain again, further South when suddenly we were swallowed by a tunnel, down which we travelled for several kilometres (they are a bit like short miles for the truly English readers). Emerging from the sphincter on the East coast, it was dark and raining. We beat a hasty retreat to the boat and put the tent over the cockpit to reduce the effects of the rain.It was now Gavin’s Birthday – 14 11 08 – and Kathy’s shopping list took so long, I was forced to do some hand washing ( there is no laundry at this marina) {actually there is very little here except for the swell of which there is far too much}. At last, by 1100 the shopping list was complete. We have been warned that this is the last serious shopping place and that El Hierro (our next and Last Canary Island) has only small Supermercados, which may not be able to supply our needs. We purchased everything on the list and on the way back bought 27 litres of diesel for €19.00. As you can imagine we were not ready to tour the South of the island until quite late in the afternoon, but the hire car had saved us much time and energy in returning our purchases to the dock. Eventually we found ourselves in Los Llanos and remembered that we had not bought cereals. Fortunately we found Frosties. Again we climbed the mountain to return home but this time we took a detour before the tunnel to see the South end of the vast volcanic crater at Cumbriceta. The cloud again enveloped us and we went for a short walk along the Aguina Canal. This had clear warnings signs saying it was dangerous and unsuitable for breathing things to walk along it, but Kathy insisted and I followed in front. When the drop became dizzyingly high and the crumbling foot holds were less than two inches wide, I sensibly decided to turn back. I like a challenge but… Later we discovered another supermarket and found Crunchy Nut Cornflakes AND Just Right. We bought several packets so you can guarantee we are not going to be short of breakfasts for quite a while.
After supper on the boat, I popped into the stern cabin (our bedroom) to find the rain leaking through the corner of the hatch onto my side of the bed. I finished sealing it at about 2245, by which time it had stopped raining. TODAY (sighs of relief all round), we returned the hire car 
and they did not even check it! Following the obligatory shopping (what else can there be to buy? – in this case fresh bread) we did jobs on board. Kathy did some washing and I changed the safety deck lines, cleaned and serviced the stern gland (it’s to do with the shaft that drives the propeller), serviced the spinnaker poles, filled the tanks with water and we had showers at the yacht club. Mine was lovely and hot, but don’t ask Kathy about hers. Later we had a delicious roast beef meal.
and they did not even check it! Following the obligatory shopping (what else can there be to buy? – in this case fresh bread) we did jobs on board. Kathy did some washing and I changed the safety deck lines, cleaned and serviced the stern gland (it’s to do with the shaft that drives the propeller), serviced the spinnaker poles, filled the tanks with water and we had showers at the yacht club. Mine was lovely and hot, but don’t ask Kathy about hers. Later we had a delicious roast beef meal.Sunday 9 November 2008
La Gomera
It’s 8th November today and Jeremy and I are very sad. Emily and Ben should be boarding their plane to the UK as I write. We are in a very crowded, but friendly, marina in San Sebastian, La Gomera.
The afternoon before Emily and Ben arrived we went to Marina San Miguel to find they had forgotten about our booking and there were no berths left! They found a place for us alongside a huge tourist catamaran called Freebird V. Almost by chance we found they had a laundrette and took the opportunity to wash and dry some bedding. Horror of horrors, when we returned for the washing, a cockroach was crawling out of the drop down seat back in the main saloon. Jeremy killed it and left me to cook supper while he went to the laundry. Within minutes another cockroach crawled out of the seat back on the opposite side. Being a bit squeamish, I put my rubber gloves on before I squashed it and cleaned up the mess. When Jeremy returned he emptied every locker in the saloon and found no more stowaways. We didn’t tell Emily and Ben about this until the day they were leaving, especially as Emily was sleeping on one of the affected berths! We didn’t sleep very well that night. Unusually, it rained heavily. At around 5.30am the alarm went off on Freebird V and a red light started flashing. We didn’t know whether it was burglars or if she was sinking! I wrote some words down from the Spanish phrase book and walked the full length of the unlit harbour to find the night security guard. He seemed to understand and one and a half hours later an engineer arrived and pulled the wires out of the alarm. Apparently the heavy rain had set it off!
Anyway, we had a great week with Emily and Ben. We crossed the 36 miles from Tenerife to La Gomera after a much quieter night on a proper berth in the marina. The swell was big and uncomfortable and the wind rose as we left making Emily unwell. She recovered quickly once we were anchored in a bay and we were all able to go ashore in hot, sunny weather to have a beach BBQ.
An engaging couple enjoying the warm winter sun on board Sal Darago.
The next 3 days were cloudy and warm with light winds. We enjoyed swimming, snorkelling, exploring caves and wandering round the remains of a fish canning factory. We went to the main ports of Sandiago and Vueltas, arriving here at San Sebastian on Thursday afternoon.
Continuing easterly winds meant the return trip to Tenerife might be rough so Emily and Ben booked on the ferry to Los Christianos, where they found some accommodation for the night.
Sal Darago seems empty without them but we have been busy doing shopping and washing and Jeremy had a fibre glass repair to do to the inside moulding in a near inaccessible place in the bow. This afternoon we will move back round to Puerto Vueltas and prepare for the 47 mile sail to the island of La Palma.
The afternoon before Emily and Ben arrived we went to Marina San Miguel to find they had forgotten about our booking and there were no berths left! They found a place for us alongside a huge tourist catamaran called Freebird V. Almost by chance we found they had a laundrette and took the opportunity to wash and dry some bedding. Horror of horrors, when we returned for the washing, a cockroach was crawling out of the drop down seat back in the main saloon. Jeremy killed it and left me to cook supper while he went to the laundry. Within minutes another cockroach crawled out of the seat back on the opposite side. Being a bit squeamish, I put my rubber gloves on before I squashed it and cleaned up the mess. When Jeremy returned he emptied every locker in the saloon and found no more stowaways. We didn’t tell Emily and Ben about this until the day they were leaving, especially as Emily was sleeping on one of the affected berths! We didn’t sleep very well that night. Unusually, it rained heavily. At around 5.30am the alarm went off on Freebird V and a red light started flashing. We didn’t know whether it was burglars or if she was sinking! I wrote some words down from the Spanish phrase book and walked the full length of the unlit harbour to find the night security guard. He seemed to understand and one and a half hours later an engineer arrived and pulled the wires out of the alarm. Apparently the heavy rain had set it off!
Anyway, we had a great week with Emily and Ben. We crossed the 36 miles from Tenerife to La Gomera after a much quieter night on a proper berth in the marina. The swell was big and uncomfortable and the wind rose as we left making Emily unwell. She recovered quickly once we were anchored in a bay and we were all able to go ashore in hot, sunny weather to have a beach BBQ.
An engaging couple enjoying the warm winter sun on board Sal Darago.
The next 3 days were cloudy and warm with light winds. We enjoyed swimming, snorkelling, exploring caves and wandering round the remains of a fish canning factory. We went to the main ports of Sandiago and Vueltas, arriving here at San Sebastian on Thursday afternoon.
Continuing easterly winds meant the return trip to Tenerife might be rough so Emily and Ben booked on the ferry to Los Christianos, where they found some accommodation for the night.
Sal Darago seems empty without them but we have been busy doing shopping and washing and Jeremy had a fibre glass repair to do to the inside moulding in a near inaccessible place in the bow. This afternoon we will move back round to Puerto Vueltas and prepare for the 47 mile sail to the island of La Palma.
Emily and Ben wave bye bye from the stern of the hi-speed ferry.
Hasta la vista amigos.
Friday 31 October 2008
Still in Tenerife
We are coming to the end of 30th October as I write this. It’s Halloween tomorrow and a festival day here for All Saints Day on 1st November.
We spent two nights at Puerto Chico marina in Santa Cruz, Tenerife. The first night was very quiet and peaceful; the second night we had a loud disco at the adjacent night club until 4.00am!!
We spent two nights at Puerto Chico marina in Santa Cruz, Tenerife. The first night was very quiet and peaceful; the second night we had a loud disco at the adjacent night club until 4.00am!!
We left a few hours later in a gentle breeze. By lunchtime we had reefed the one sail we had up, the genoa, and by the afternoon we had a tiny storm gib size sail and a huge following sea. The barometer had fallen 7 millibars in 2 and a half hours! However, there were no other signs of a strong wind or storm – no clouds, no rain – a general forecast of moderate winds and a local forecast of light winds. We reached our anchorage at Bahia Abona to find it was untenable so we had to continue and look for somewhere else before it went dark. Our pilot book said there was good holding off a beach at Playa de las Tejitas so we anchored there in strong winds. The anchor held at the second attempt.
El Teide 3718 metres
We had a quick trip ashore in the dinghy the next morning and I was extra careful after my previous soaking. By lunchtime another hoolie was blowing but the anchor held firm. The next morning a big ship was coming straight for us but it anchored near some huge yellow mooring buoys and a small boat secured lines to the buoys. This was the tanker containing aviation fuel for the nearby airport which was put into a pipe they pulled up by crane from the seabed. We left them to it and called into Marina San Miguel where we booked in for two nights, 31st Oct and 1st Nov. 
After a cup of tea and a chat on Avantyr, a Dutch yacht, we set off to explore the SW and W coast of Tenerife, ending up in the marina at Los Gigantes as there was nowhere comfortable or sheltered to anchor. There were only 6 other yachts in the marina and many power boats, probably because of the shallow 2 metre entrance and the warning in the pilot book about dangerous swell.
Our first night there was quiet and peaceful, my only complaint being the cold showers. We checked the weather forecast with the marina the next day and began to be a little concerned about the 25knots of NE wind mentioned. No-one expected a raging gale with winds up to 64knots. It was a terrifying noise as the wind swept down the cliffs and around the marina, ripping covers on boats and sending spray all around. Sleep was impossible. Jeremy put extra shore lines and springs on as we bounced and heeled on the pontoon. We were very fortunate to still be in one piece by morning and very pleased to be able to get out in strong, but much quieter winds, later that day. We had an uncomfortable journey to the marina at Las Galletas, back in the south, where we had to tie up stern to the pontoon and be held by lines from the seabed to the bow.
Tomorrow we hope to anchor again in Las Tejitas for lunch and then go to the marina at San Miguel for two nights. We can’t wait to see Emily and Ben on 1st November. They are joining us for a week.
After a cup of tea and a chat on Avantyr, a Dutch yacht, we set off to explore the SW and W coast of Tenerife, ending up in the marina at Los Gigantes as there was nowhere comfortable or sheltered to anchor. There were only 6 other yachts in the marina and many power boats, probably because of the shallow 2 metre entrance and the warning in the pilot book about dangerous swell.
Our first night there was quiet and peaceful, my only complaint being the cold showers. We checked the weather forecast with the marina the next day and began to be a little concerned about the 25knots of NE wind mentioned. No-one expected a raging gale with winds up to 64knots. It was a terrifying noise as the wind swept down the cliffs and around the marina, ripping covers on boats and sending spray all around. Sleep was impossible. Jeremy put extra shore lines and springs on as we bounced and heeled on the pontoon. We were very fortunate to still be in one piece by morning and very pleased to be able to get out in strong, but much quieter winds, later that day. We had an uncomfortable journey to the marina at Las Galletas, back in the south, where we had to tie up stern to the pontoon and be held by lines from the seabed to the bow.
Tomorrow we hope to anchor again in Las Tejitas for lunch and then go to the marina at San Miguel for two nights. We can’t wait to see Emily and Ben on 1st November. They are joining us for a week.
Friday 24 October 2008
Pathe News Lastest
Cliffs of NW Gran Canaria
A resort on S Gran Canaria
Not everyone lives in a three star apartment
Playa Antequera Tenerife - abandoned restaurant
The Beach at Playa AntequeraAt last a seedy adult porn games shop`that allows us to use our memory stick. Love to all.
Tenerife
It’s now Thursday 23rd October and we are in a small marina called Puerto Chico near Santa Cruz, Tenerife, having been turned away from the Marina Tenerife as they have no berths left.
We were not very impressed with Grand Canaria as there was nowhere to anchor comfortably away from Las Palmas and most of the marinas were fully occupied. Thanks to the pilot book updates we knew a huge breakwater had been built near Bahia de Arinaga so we anchored there for the night. There was nothing there except a windfarm and some people fishing but we were visited by the civil guard who shone a spotlight on us, asked us some questions and said we could stay there one night. Our next stop was outside the full marina at Plasito Blanco. We passed huge holiday developments on the way. The anchorage was a bit bumpy but we were able to have a swim and snorkel. The next day we anchored outside the marina at Puerto Mogan, which is a small holiday resort and quite pleasant ashore. We shopped at the Spar supermarket and started to fill some containers with water from a tap on the pontoon. A Norwegian told us we could not have water as the tap was “his” and he had to pay for it. It seems that the water was metered. I managed to get one 5 litre bottle filled at the marina office and that was all we were allowed!
We left Puerto Mogan the next day and travelled up the west coast to Puerto de la Aldea. The dramatic cliffs and isolated beaches with a few tents or shacks on them were in complete contrast to the resorts just around the corner. We anchored close to a small harbour but the holding was not good so we soon had a stern anchor out as well. Strong gusts of wind funnelled down the hillside and each time the anchor dragged a bit. We relaid the stern anchor with some difficulty and went snorkelling on the many reefs. Later we went ashore to be told the nearest shop was 4 kilometres away and there was no water in the harbour. There was a pine wood with hosepipes attached to each tree and a huge number of picnic areas – oh and there was a helicopter landing pad complete with windsock but the village only had a handful of houses!
When we returned it was clear we would have to reanchor. I thought it would not be a good idea to spend the night there so we had supper, made some sandwiches, weighed both anchors and set off into the night with two reefs in the mainsail and the engine on. We arrived at Playa Antequera, Tenerife at 5.00 am the next morning navigating into the unlit, uninhabited bay by radar, GPS and laptop charts. There was an unlit ketch on anchor, which we avoided and dropped our own anchor into good holding.
The next day we explored the remains of a bar and restaurant with its own small harbour. I was thrown out of the dinghy by the surf Tom and Jerry style – full spreadeagle backwards. I was unhurt (although I have since found big bruises on the back of my knees) and we collapsed in laughter as I walked ashore wet through and covered in black sand, which found its way into my underwear! We were visited later by Stephan, from the ketch, Tamata. The following day we were invited aboard and met his wife, Simona and their delightful 4 year old daughter, Naphalie. Stephan was a very intense young man with strong views of the world but we enjoyed talking to him.
Today we travelled 5 miles to Puerto Chico, where we filled up with diesel and water, caught the bus into town and stocked up at a supermarket. Jeremy has done an oil change so we’re ready for the next 100 hours of motoring now!
We were not very impressed with Grand Canaria as there was nowhere to anchor comfortably away from Las Palmas and most of the marinas were fully occupied. Thanks to the pilot book updates we knew a huge breakwater had been built near Bahia de Arinaga so we anchored there for the night. There was nothing there except a windfarm and some people fishing but we were visited by the civil guard who shone a spotlight on us, asked us some questions and said we could stay there one night. Our next stop was outside the full marina at Plasito Blanco. We passed huge holiday developments on the way. The anchorage was a bit bumpy but we were able to have a swim and snorkel. The next day we anchored outside the marina at Puerto Mogan, which is a small holiday resort and quite pleasant ashore. We shopped at the Spar supermarket and started to fill some containers with water from a tap on the pontoon. A Norwegian told us we could not have water as the tap was “his” and he had to pay for it. It seems that the water was metered. I managed to get one 5 litre bottle filled at the marina office and that was all we were allowed!
We left Puerto Mogan the next day and travelled up the west coast to Puerto de la Aldea. The dramatic cliffs and isolated beaches with a few tents or shacks on them were in complete contrast to the resorts just around the corner. We anchored close to a small harbour but the holding was not good so we soon had a stern anchor out as well. Strong gusts of wind funnelled down the hillside and each time the anchor dragged a bit. We relaid the stern anchor with some difficulty and went snorkelling on the many reefs. Later we went ashore to be told the nearest shop was 4 kilometres away and there was no water in the harbour. There was a pine wood with hosepipes attached to each tree and a huge number of picnic areas – oh and there was a helicopter landing pad complete with windsock but the village only had a handful of houses!
When we returned it was clear we would have to reanchor. I thought it would not be a good idea to spend the night there so we had supper, made some sandwiches, weighed both anchors and set off into the night with two reefs in the mainsail and the engine on. We arrived at Playa Antequera, Tenerife at 5.00 am the next morning navigating into the unlit, uninhabited bay by radar, GPS and laptop charts. There was an unlit ketch on anchor, which we avoided and dropped our own anchor into good holding.
The next day we explored the remains of a bar and restaurant with its own small harbour. I was thrown out of the dinghy by the surf Tom and Jerry style – full spreadeagle backwards. I was unhurt (although I have since found big bruises on the back of my knees) and we collapsed in laughter as I walked ashore wet through and covered in black sand, which found its way into my underwear! We were visited later by Stephan, from the ketch, Tamata. The following day we were invited aboard and met his wife, Simona and their delightful 4 year old daughter, Naphalie. Stephan was a very intense young man with strong views of the world but we enjoyed talking to him.
Today we travelled 5 miles to Puerto Chico, where we filled up with diesel and water, caught the bus into town and stocked up at a supermarket. Jeremy has done an oil change so we’re ready for the next 100 hours of motoring now!
Sunday 19 October 2008
Pictures mostly from Gran Canaria
Las Playitas
Mary, Las Palmas Cathedral
Morro Jable at night
View from Cathedral
Suffering!Sorry these are not in the correct order, but you get what you pay for ;-)
A cafe that works at last!
Wednesday 15th October is the day on which I write this, sitting on anchor in Las Palmas, Gran Canaria.
We managed to get on line at last in the Library – Biblioteca - in Rosario and the following day, Friday 10.10, we set off down the coast of Fuertaventura. As we rounded the corner to go west, the wind died and became fluky. As we were in an “acceleration zone”, we had reduced the genoa by one third and the main was not being used. We were becalmed, but within a few seconds, we were hit by prolonged gusts of over 37 knots. Sal Darago accelerated and leant over – so far that her port side windows were being nicely washed. The decks on that side had disappeared under the water. Kathy had the presence of mind to suggest we let the sheet on the sail go, which I did and, after furling the genoa, we continued on engine to Las Playitas. The only damage was a torn eyelet on the spray dodger, which Kathy said had been completely submerged.
Las Playitas was an undeveloped village. Further along the bay there was the usual huge development, but walking around Las Playitas was very pleasant. We stayed there the night and then moved cautiously on to a harbour, Gran Tarajal, where it was possible to anchor. On entry, we could see the anchorage space had been taken up by a new marina with pontoons blocking the anchorage. As we were leaving, “Aventyr”, a Dutch yacht last seen in Arrecife, called us up and said we should stay as the Harbour Master was on holiday and there were no charges. We stayed. Here we gained access to the new Pilot notes by memory stick and met up with Dick Emery on “Moonshiner”, whom we had last seen in Porto Santo.
In the evening, Kathy and I went shopping and we decided to eat out (third time this trip). We went to the ?”Confederation of Fishermen’s Restaurant”? and decided to have fish as a main course. For starters I had cheese and tomatoes, which was very tasty. Kathy had mixed salad and was rather astonished to receive a huge plate of tuna, and salad – rather more than we would have for supper on SD. The main courses arrived. Kathy had conservatively chosen Langustinos and received a flat, frying pan of salt (about 2 centimetres thick) with twelve very large prawns (small lobsters) {in their shells} and a knife and fork. I had gone for the most expensive plate on the menu – a grilled selection of fish – largely because the only thing I could otherwise recognise (apart from Langustinos) was Dog Fish. My plate arrived with four small potatoes, a burnt offering of green pepper and several pieces of extremely well done fish including a fish head and two tails. We completed the meal.
The next day we left to travel 20 miles SW to Morro Jable. Here we anchored outside the breakwater for the night and left at 0600. Kathy dodged ships during her first watch, but by 1600 we were again at anchor in Las Palmas and later we completed the paperwork in the huge marina from which the famous “Atlantic Rally for Cruisers” ARC will set off in five weeks time. We met Henrique who asked to see our gas bottle at 0900 next morning, but expressed severe doubt that it could be filled due to its age (1974). This was a bottle we had received in exchange for an empty, new one in Crosshaven. Not counting the cost of two early mornings in a row, we met Henrique, who lives in a blue ex ambulance. He directed us to sit in his car and drove us away – who knew where. He showed us his button? where he was having Chemotherapy and the next day he was to go into hospital for major surgery. He duly found us a “new” full calor gas bottle and returned us to our dinghy. We wish him well as it looked as if we were going to be a gas bottle down without his help. Our troubles are only little ones.
Something has been eating me at night and its/ their bite is extremely itchy for three days afterwards. This came to a head when I was bitten 5 times. Kathy and I got to work making “fortress SD” with lots of mosquito netting. Unfortunately to get the net to stay on the front hatch, it was necessary to remove the two supports. Had I known that the nuts behind would fall off, I may not have removed the bolts. Anyhow it looks as if the struts’ removal is now permanent which was a bit of a mistake as the front hatch really needs supports. Last night I spent the evening making wooden supports for the front hatch. The net fits well now. I was only bitten once. And Yes, before you all suggest it, I was bathed in Deet.
Today we went Cathedral viewing. It was odd really as it had been built mostly in the late 19th century. There was much art but it was rather gory, maybe I’ll be able to publish some photos with the text instead of four weeks later. Kathy insisted on going up the tower (a fairly small affair with a lift!) and the view was good. I suppose with Durham one is spoiled and little lives up to expectations. Tomorrow we search for internet cafes and water that does not taste of Dettol. The weather has been warm, but manageable and there has been no rain since we left Gran Tarahal.
We managed to get on line at last in the Library – Biblioteca - in Rosario and the following day, Friday 10.10, we set off down the coast of Fuertaventura. As we rounded the corner to go west, the wind died and became fluky. As we were in an “acceleration zone”, we had reduced the genoa by one third and the main was not being used. We were becalmed, but within a few seconds, we were hit by prolonged gusts of over 37 knots. Sal Darago accelerated and leant over – so far that her port side windows were being nicely washed. The decks on that side had disappeared under the water. Kathy had the presence of mind to suggest we let the sheet on the sail go, which I did and, after furling the genoa, we continued on engine to Las Playitas. The only damage was a torn eyelet on the spray dodger, which Kathy said had been completely submerged.
Las Playitas was an undeveloped village. Further along the bay there was the usual huge development, but walking around Las Playitas was very pleasant. We stayed there the night and then moved cautiously on to a harbour, Gran Tarajal, where it was possible to anchor. On entry, we could see the anchorage space had been taken up by a new marina with pontoons blocking the anchorage. As we were leaving, “Aventyr”, a Dutch yacht last seen in Arrecife, called us up and said we should stay as the Harbour Master was on holiday and there were no charges. We stayed. Here we gained access to the new Pilot notes by memory stick and met up with Dick Emery on “Moonshiner”, whom we had last seen in Porto Santo.
In the evening, Kathy and I went shopping and we decided to eat out (third time this trip). We went to the ?”Confederation of Fishermen’s Restaurant”? and decided to have fish as a main course. For starters I had cheese and tomatoes, which was very tasty. Kathy had mixed salad and was rather astonished to receive a huge plate of tuna, and salad – rather more than we would have for supper on SD. The main courses arrived. Kathy had conservatively chosen Langustinos and received a flat, frying pan of salt (about 2 centimetres thick) with twelve very large prawns (small lobsters) {in their shells} and a knife and fork. I had gone for the most expensive plate on the menu – a grilled selection of fish – largely because the only thing I could otherwise recognise (apart from Langustinos) was Dog Fish. My plate arrived with four small potatoes, a burnt offering of green pepper and several pieces of extremely well done fish including a fish head and two tails. We completed the meal.
The next day we left to travel 20 miles SW to Morro Jable. Here we anchored outside the breakwater for the night and left at 0600. Kathy dodged ships during her first watch, but by 1600 we were again at anchor in Las Palmas and later we completed the paperwork in the huge marina from which the famous “Atlantic Rally for Cruisers” ARC will set off in five weeks time. We met Henrique who asked to see our gas bottle at 0900 next morning, but expressed severe doubt that it could be filled due to its age (1974). This was a bottle we had received in exchange for an empty, new one in Crosshaven. Not counting the cost of two early mornings in a row, we met Henrique, who lives in a blue ex ambulance. He directed us to sit in his car and drove us away – who knew where. He showed us his button? where he was having Chemotherapy and the next day he was to go into hospital for major surgery. He duly found us a “new” full calor gas bottle and returned us to our dinghy. We wish him well as it looked as if we were going to be a gas bottle down without his help. Our troubles are only little ones.
Something has been eating me at night and its/ their bite is extremely itchy for three days afterwards. This came to a head when I was bitten 5 times. Kathy and I got to work making “fortress SD” with lots of mosquito netting. Unfortunately to get the net to stay on the front hatch, it was necessary to remove the two supports. Had I known that the nuts behind would fall off, I may not have removed the bolts. Anyhow it looks as if the struts’ removal is now permanent which was a bit of a mistake as the front hatch really needs supports. Last night I spent the evening making wooden supports for the front hatch. The net fits well now. I was only bitten once. And Yes, before you all suggest it, I was bathed in Deet.
Today we went Cathedral viewing. It was odd really as it had been built mostly in the late 19th century. There was much art but it was rather gory, maybe I’ll be able to publish some photos with the text instead of four weeks later. Kathy insisted on going up the tower (a fairly small affair with a lift!) and the view was good. I suppose with Durham one is spoiled and little lives up to expectations. Tomorrow we search for internet cafes and water that does not taste of Dettol. The weather has been warm, but manageable and there has been no rain since we left Gran Tarahal.
Thursday 9 October 2008
Caribbean Trip Itinerary
My efforts to copy a table into this blog have failed again. Here's a brief outline of our plans:
Until the first week in December we are in the Canaries visiting most of the islands. Grand Canaria is the next one.
Most of December will be spent crossing the Atlantic to Barbados.
January, February and March we hope to visit St Lucia, Grenada, the Grenadines and some smaller islands always making our way south to Tobago and Trinidad by April.
We return to the UK in May for Emily and Ben's wedding and I return to work on 1st June 2009.
Until the first week in December we are in the Canaries visiting most of the islands. Grand Canaria is the next one.
Most of December will be spent crossing the Atlantic to Barbados.
January, February and March we hope to visit St Lucia, Grenada, the Grenadines and some smaller islands always making our way south to Tobago and Trinidad by April.
We return to the UK in May for Emily and Ben's wedding and I return to work on 1st June 2009.
Fuertaventura
Today is Wednesday 8th October. We are sitting out a force 7 in Puerto del Rosario, the capital of Fuertaventura. This port is said not to welcome yachts but it has a Disa gasworks nearby and our Calor gas bottle ran out the day we left Arrecife, Lanzarote, which is close to a Disa gasworks! C’est la vie!
On our second day in Arrecife, Jeremy thought his quest (and Emily’s) for banjo bolts for the engine was over. We walked the 1 or 2 miles to Puerto Naos and bought some bolts…but when we returned to the boat they were the wrong thread and had to be returned the next day. So, Emily, please keep looking! I had more luck and bought a snorkel mask so I am no longer slowly drowned as water does not seep into the new mask. Jeremy bought a small anchor for the dinghy so we can now anchor over a reef and swim with the fish rather than having to do a marathon swim from Sal Daraago to get to the reef in the first place. The only problem is getting back into the dinghy from the sea. Our fender steps float but once you get your foot in they disappear under the dinghy and you fall in the sea again. Jeremy says I need to do something about my upper body strength!! I think I need to do something about my knees as the first time I wore flippers, I nearly did them in as I was kicking too deeply.
It was great to hear from colleagues at work. Get better soon, Norma.
After Arrecife we had a day anchored off the beaches near Playa Blanca. Once again the snorkelling was good, this time over submarine caves. Some of the beaches were popular with naturists but we’re getting quite used to this now. However, naked rock climbing, which a number of men seemed to enjoy, was a bit different!
Our last night in Lanzarote was spent in Marina Rubicon, also near Playa Blanca. We needed to wash our bedding and our towels so we made good use of their laundry, electricity and water. The hot showers were luxurious. We stocked up for 3 days and the following morning we left for Isla de Lobos, which is close to Fuertaventura. Our pilot book said there was a lagoon with a bar of 1.2m. We have a depth of 1.8m but we thought we would have no trouble getting in at half tide. When our depth went down to 1m and we were over rock, Jeremy reversed quickly. We anchored in deeper water and explored by dinghy. As we could both stand up and it was now nearly high water, there was no chance of getting into the lagoon with Sal Darago.
We felt the anchorage was not too secure but the anchor held all night and the next morning we explored the island on foot following trails across the volcanic boulders in a moon like landscape. The only village was a shanty town of half built houses, tents and awnings but it had its own beach area and fishing pools. We returned to our boat just as the first tourist boat arrived and left after lunch leaving two tourist catamarans and a fishing party to enjoy the clear, blue water.
Since being here in Puerto del Rosario, we have checked in with the harbour master, who was friendly and happy for us to be anchored in the harbour and been sent to two places for gas. Jeremy carried the container in his rucksack up steep hills but no luck. At the second garage a very helpful woman got us a taxi and we went to the Disa gasworks. Unfortunately, they could not fill our type of bottle so we’ve spent 10 euros for nothing. We do have 2 and a half more gas bottles on board and the harbour master didn’t charge us anything so why should we complain? Perhaps we’ll get a refill in Grand Canaria.
Hasta luego amigos.
On our second day in Arrecife, Jeremy thought his quest (and Emily’s) for banjo bolts for the engine was over. We walked the 1 or 2 miles to Puerto Naos and bought some bolts…but when we returned to the boat they were the wrong thread and had to be returned the next day. So, Emily, please keep looking! I had more luck and bought a snorkel mask so I am no longer slowly drowned as water does not seep into the new mask. Jeremy bought a small anchor for the dinghy so we can now anchor over a reef and swim with the fish rather than having to do a marathon swim from Sal Daraago to get to the reef in the first place. The only problem is getting back into the dinghy from the sea. Our fender steps float but once you get your foot in they disappear under the dinghy and you fall in the sea again. Jeremy says I need to do something about my upper body strength!! I think I need to do something about my knees as the first time I wore flippers, I nearly did them in as I was kicking too deeply.
It was great to hear from colleagues at work. Get better soon, Norma.
After Arrecife we had a day anchored off the beaches near Playa Blanca. Once again the snorkelling was good, this time over submarine caves. Some of the beaches were popular with naturists but we’re getting quite used to this now. However, naked rock climbing, which a number of men seemed to enjoy, was a bit different!
Our last night in Lanzarote was spent in Marina Rubicon, also near Playa Blanca. We needed to wash our bedding and our towels so we made good use of their laundry, electricity and water. The hot showers were luxurious. We stocked up for 3 days and the following morning we left for Isla de Lobos, which is close to Fuertaventura. Our pilot book said there was a lagoon with a bar of 1.2m. We have a depth of 1.8m but we thought we would have no trouble getting in at half tide. When our depth went down to 1m and we were over rock, Jeremy reversed quickly. We anchored in deeper water and explored by dinghy. As we could both stand up and it was now nearly high water, there was no chance of getting into the lagoon with Sal Darago.
We felt the anchorage was not too secure but the anchor held all night and the next morning we explored the island on foot following trails across the volcanic boulders in a moon like landscape. The only village was a shanty town of half built houses, tents and awnings but it had its own beach area and fishing pools. We returned to our boat just as the first tourist boat arrived and left after lunch leaving two tourist catamarans and a fishing party to enjoy the clear, blue water.
Since being here in Puerto del Rosario, we have checked in with the harbour master, who was friendly and happy for us to be anchored in the harbour and been sent to two places for gas. Jeremy carried the container in his rucksack up steep hills but no luck. At the second garage a very helpful woman got us a taxi and we went to the Disa gasworks. Unfortunately, they could not fill our type of bottle so we’ve spent 10 euros for nothing. We do have 2 and a half more gas bottles on board and the harbour master didn’t charge us anything so why should we complain? Perhaps we’ll get a refill in Grand Canaria.Hasta luego amigos.
Wednesday 1 October 2008
Lanzarote
As per usual we have had difficulty in reaching the internet. We have tried many times to “publish” photos, but had no success. This is because we were not able to use an internet café in Isla Graciosa.
We left the marina and went to a lovely bay beyond Playa Francesca (PF). Here Jeremy snorkelled and was amazed. Later we returned the short distance to PF where the holding for the anchor was good, but Jeremy squashed his third finger on his right hand while anchoring. Kathy swam ashore and back, followed by a shower on the stern. It was just as well we did return to PF for there were winds of over 20 knots at 0400 and ten boats left the anchorage before lunch. By the afternoon it was calm and hot. With only five boats in a large bay. Jeremy went snorkelling again and this time he managed to swim with a shoal of fish, see some amazing black sea urchins and many highly coloured and also striped fish – WoW!
On Friday 260908 we motored around the Island of Graciosa. (We needed to charge the batteries.) We anchored off a beach on the NW (using Simon’s charts on the Laptop). Here we both snorkelled, but the bottom was sand and uninteresting. This was Kathy’s first snorkel for many years. HOWEVER, the beach was popular with nudists and Jeremy was kept … busy in the galley (Ha Ha Ha adds Kathy). Kathy also feels it worthy of mention that there were four nude females fishing from the rocks. Despite being some way away, Jeremy’s new and amazing Panasonic Lumix DMC FZ18 was able to pick out the finer points of their casting technique.
For the next two days we went snorkelling morning and evening in PF as it had a variety of aquatic life and several interesting reefs on which to explore. We also had to return to Caleta del Sebo twice for supplies and water from the shower. The island was very small and between 10 and 5 it was invaded by boats from Lanzarote carrying tourists. Generally there was enough room for everyone. The only downside was the wake that the ferry left as it passed within a few metres of the anchored boats. The island gets no rain. But it rained lightly three times while we were there. The rain carried a fine, brown/red dust from Africa which settled on everything. In the port there were THREE supermercados, which all carried the same basic goods. All in all it was an unusual, volcanic, barren island with sandy beaches and good snorkelling.
On Monday 290908 we left Graciosa for Lanzarote. We sailed and motored down the coast in sunshine, stopping to anchor at Arrieta for lunch and continuing to Puerto Marmoles. Here we anchored off a busy container wharf so that Jeremy could “log” in with the Policia National. When he found their offices, it transpired they opened from 8 until 2. He returned to the boat where Kathy had cooked a delicious meatball supper (remember them Hal and Patrick?).
Next day Jeremy duly logged in and had the passports stamped for the first time. We then moved about a mile to Puerto Naos. Here we anchored three times and still dragged a bit. As we tried to chain the dinghy ashore we were chased off the mooring ring by a local who told us to chain and padlock to a rock. This we did and went shopping. Naos had excellent chandleries and we purchased everything we needed including sheer pins for the outboard. After the supermercado, we returned to find the tide had risen and the rock and chain were a foot under water. This was further compounded as the chain had inexplicably caught under a huge boulder and the dinghy was straining to stay afloat. After struggling with a combination lock a foot below the surface, Jeremy lited the rock around which the chain was locked. This released the chain, but the second finger on Jeremy’s right hand was badly squashed. Only two fingers left! The boat was now dangerously close to a quay on the leeside of the harbour. We launched; Jeremy rowed to the pontoon for water; he then went to “Shanty” to give them some pilotage information – we had met the Dutch family in Cascais, Portugal – ; Kathy was shouted at from the shore for being too close to some other boats and then we left. Not our favourite spot.
Arriving at Arrecife, some two miles south, our friend from “Aventyr” pointed out a mooring, which we gratefully picked up. Just as we were finally securing it, a German boat immediately ahead of us (“Rose Erensee”) told us that it was only a small block. Jeremy changed into his snorkelling apparel while Kathy cooked a delicious mince and tatties meal. The block looked okay, but the satellite alarm was put on anyway (it went off at 0700 the next morning at low water). At 2300 just as Kathy was going to bed, Jeremy picked up a WiFi signal and managed to post last weeks blog, but as usual it would not upload the pictures. He tried with the Pringles tin as Simon had suggested, but failed and it began to RAIN HEAVILY. It’s not meant to do that here!
We left the marina and went to a lovely bay beyond Playa Francesca (PF). Here Jeremy snorkelled and was amazed. Later we returned the short distance to PF where the holding for the anchor was good, but Jeremy squashed his third finger on his right hand while anchoring. Kathy swam ashore and back, followed by a shower on the stern. It was just as well we did return to PF for there were winds of over 20 knots at 0400 and ten boats left the anchorage before lunch. By the afternoon it was calm and hot. With only five boats in a large bay. Jeremy went snorkelling again and this time he managed to swim with a shoal of fish, see some amazing black sea urchins and many highly coloured and also striped fish – WoW!
On Friday 260908 we motored around the Island of Graciosa. (We needed to charge the batteries.) We anchored off a beach on the NW (using Simon’s charts on the Laptop). Here we both snorkelled, but the bottom was sand and uninteresting. This was Kathy’s first snorkel for many years. HOWEVER, the beach was popular with nudists and Jeremy was kept … busy in the galley (Ha Ha Ha adds Kathy). Kathy also feels it worthy of mention that there were four nude females fishing from the rocks. Despite being some way away, Jeremy’s new and amazing Panasonic Lumix DMC FZ18 was able to pick out the finer points of their casting technique.
For the next two days we went snorkelling morning and evening in PF as it had a variety of aquatic life and several interesting reefs on which to explore. We also had to return to Caleta del Sebo twice for supplies and water from the shower. The island was very small and between 10 and 5 it was invaded by boats from Lanzarote carrying tourists. Generally there was enough room for everyone. The only downside was the wake that the ferry left as it passed within a few metres of the anchored boats. The island gets no rain. But it rained lightly three times while we were there. The rain carried a fine, brown/red dust from Africa which settled on everything. In the port there were THREE supermercados, which all carried the same basic goods. All in all it was an unusual, volcanic, barren island with sandy beaches and good snorkelling.
On Monday 290908 we left Graciosa for Lanzarote. We sailed and motored down the coast in sunshine, stopping to anchor at Arrieta for lunch and continuing to Puerto Marmoles. Here we anchored off a busy container wharf so that Jeremy could “log” in with the Policia National. When he found their offices, it transpired they opened from 8 until 2. He returned to the boat where Kathy had cooked a delicious meatball supper (remember them Hal and Patrick?).
Next day Jeremy duly logged in and had the passports stamped for the first time. We then moved about a mile to Puerto Naos. Here we anchored three times and still dragged a bit. As we tried to chain the dinghy ashore we were chased off the mooring ring by a local who told us to chain and padlock to a rock. This we did and went shopping. Naos had excellent chandleries and we purchased everything we needed including sheer pins for the outboard. After the supermercado, we returned to find the tide had risen and the rock and chain were a foot under water. This was further compounded as the chain had inexplicably caught under a huge boulder and the dinghy was straining to stay afloat. After struggling with a combination lock a foot below the surface, Jeremy lited the rock around which the chain was locked. This released the chain, but the second finger on Jeremy’s right hand was badly squashed. Only two fingers left! The boat was now dangerously close to a quay on the leeside of the harbour. We launched; Jeremy rowed to the pontoon for water; he then went to “Shanty” to give them some pilotage information – we had met the Dutch family in Cascais, Portugal – ; Kathy was shouted at from the shore for being too close to some other boats and then we left. Not our favourite spot.
Arriving at Arrecife, some two miles south, our friend from “Aventyr” pointed out a mooring, which we gratefully picked up. Just as we were finally securing it, a German boat immediately ahead of us (“Rose Erensee”) told us that it was only a small block. Jeremy changed into his snorkelling apparel while Kathy cooked a delicious mince and tatties meal. The block looked okay, but the satellite alarm was put on anyway (it went off at 0700 the next morning at low water). At 2300 just as Kathy was going to bed, Jeremy picked up a WiFi signal and managed to post last weeks blog, but as usual it would not upload the pictures. He tried with the Pringles tin as Simon had suggested, but failed and it began to RAIN HEAVILY. It’s not meant to do that here!
Tuesday 30 September 2008
Intenet at last
We spent 3 nights on anchor at Funchal, Madeira. After the relatively calm first night, we paid a deposit of 10 euros to the marina for a shower key and took the bus up the mountain to the Botanical Gardens where we could obtain a permit to visit the Islas Desertas. We had to stand all the way at the back of the packed bus, hanging on as we climbed near vertical gradients and swept round narrow 90-180 degree bends at speed, with only a toot on the horn to warn any oncoming traffic or pedestrians! We got off when everybody else did, wondered where we were and followed the crowd to an entrance to the Jardim Botanico. We paid our 3 euros each, obtained our permit with little fuss and minimal paperwork and spent a pleasant few hours wandering round succulent gardens, with cacti taller than trees, walking through topiary and box formal gardens, admiring and photographing the birds in the extensive aviary and eating our picnic in the shade of many species of trees and flowering plants.
My sister, Pat, had recommended the cablecar. We took the one that went up which cost us 8 euros each. It was amazing looking down into the valley below and seeing tiny people walking along the levadas. The view of Funchal, miles below us and of the harbour was spectacular. Once at the top, we had 2 options – take the bus down for 2 euros or the cablecar for 10 each. We took the bus. It turned out to be an excellent choice. This time we had seats and if it was scary coming up it was a white knuckle ride going down! The views, once again, when you dared look were suberb.
Once safely down our day was spoilt by a wind change in the bay which put Sal Darago too close to the catamaran next to us. Then it began to rain heavily and we moved closer and closer to the cat. Eventually, we reanchored in the rain – twice. Then further excitement began as someone shouted for help with a yacht that was dragging its anchor and moving close to the shore. As Jeremy was in the dinghy he went to help immediately and 3 dinghies saved the yacht from grounding. The owner was ashore. It amazed all the rescuers to find there was no anchor when they tried pulling it up. The chain had snapped. That night we all rocked and rolled in the bay but everyone stayed put. The French owner returned and took his boat into the marina but he did invite us all aboard for drinks the next day and was eternally grateful, kissing everyone and thanking us all.
Our last night at Funchal was even more rocky and we were happy to leave for the Canary Islands even though the wind was blowing in excess of 20 knots! We were not able to visit the Islas Desertas. Sailing people will know about lee shores. We had strong winds blowing onshore into a temporary anchorage backed by sheer cliffs, so we sailed on passing the islands safely if a little too close for comfort. We had a good passage in a westerly wind – where are the north east trades?
Two days and nights later we arrived at Islas Graciosa, very close to the north end of Lanzarote. We’re in the marina now. The harbour master is on holiday, there is no water and no electricity on the berths. The showers are cold water only and the choice is between communal ones on a nearby campsite with no roof or doors or one only on the quay. To get water for the boat you have to remove the shower head and fill containers! The plus side of all this is it’s very cheap! Tomorrow we are moving to a nearby anchorage in Playa Francesca and when we feel refreshed we’ll have a look at the coasts of Lanzarote and Fuertaventura. We’re in the Canaries until December so if anyone is having a holiday here do visit – we have spare berths- except from 1-8 November when Emily and Ben are coming.
We’re back in Spanish territory so hasta luego!
My sister, Pat, had recommended the cablecar. We took the one that went up which cost us 8 euros each. It was amazing looking down into the valley below and seeing tiny people walking along the levadas. The view of Funchal, miles below us and of the harbour was spectacular. Once at the top, we had 2 options – take the bus down for 2 euros or the cablecar for 10 each. We took the bus. It turned out to be an excellent choice. This time we had seats and if it was scary coming up it was a white knuckle ride going down! The views, once again, when you dared look were suberb.
Once safely down our day was spoilt by a wind change in the bay which put Sal Darago too close to the catamaran next to us. Then it began to rain heavily and we moved closer and closer to the cat. Eventually, we reanchored in the rain – twice. Then further excitement began as someone shouted for help with a yacht that was dragging its anchor and moving close to the shore. As Jeremy was in the dinghy he went to help immediately and 3 dinghies saved the yacht from grounding. The owner was ashore. It amazed all the rescuers to find there was no anchor when they tried pulling it up. The chain had snapped. That night we all rocked and rolled in the bay but everyone stayed put. The French owner returned and took his boat into the marina but he did invite us all aboard for drinks the next day and was eternally grateful, kissing everyone and thanking us all.
Our last night at Funchal was even more rocky and we were happy to leave for the Canary Islands even though the wind was blowing in excess of 20 knots! We were not able to visit the Islas Desertas. Sailing people will know about lee shores. We had strong winds blowing onshore into a temporary anchorage backed by sheer cliffs, so we sailed on passing the islands safely if a little too close for comfort. We had a good passage in a westerly wind – where are the north east trades?
Two days and nights later we arrived at Islas Graciosa, very close to the north end of Lanzarote. We’re in the marina now. The harbour master is on holiday, there is no water and no electricity on the berths. The showers are cold water only and the choice is between communal ones on a nearby campsite with no roof or doors or one only on the quay. To get water for the boat you have to remove the shower head and fill containers! The plus side of all this is it’s very cheap! Tomorrow we are moving to a nearby anchorage in Playa Francesca and when we feel refreshed we’ll have a look at the coasts of Lanzarote and Fuertaventura. We’re in the Canaries until December so if anyone is having a holiday here do visit – we have spare berths- except from 1-8 November when Emily and Ben are coming.
We’re back in Spanish territory so hasta luego!
Tuesday 16 September 2008
Having spent the night in Quinta do Lorde, where the building of a new resort meant that the pile drivers, cranes and lorries were going until 2200, we decided to anchor in the nearby quiet Baia d’Abra. We left our blue Calor Gas bottle with Catia (very nice) to have it filled for Monday morning.
The Baia d’Abra was remote, but on a very popular tourist walk. Fortunately these walkers were up half a mountain and never really bothered us. The wind whistled over a saddle in the hills and we were quite often buffeted with 25 knots. This slewed us sideways onto the swell and we rolled. After rocking and rolling until 0100, Saturday, Jeremy decided to use the new flopper stoppers. By 0200 they were deployed, but careful reading of the instructions by head torch showed him that 5 flopper stoppers were needed on EACH side. As we had only bought 5 the rolling decreased, but did not stop. In the morning Jeremy took the dinghy and stern anchor(first use) and deployed it and about thirty metres of anchor line (rope). This kept Sal Darago straight and normal service was resumed.
We kept threatening to have a barbeque, but all these exertions meant that Jeremy was less than enthusiastic to land the dinghy through the surf for a damp barbeque. We had steak onboard that evening.
Following a good night’s kip, we both decided to join the walkers to see what the attraction was. Mostly, when we got halfway up the mountain, it appeared to be a view of …Sal Darago. No… it was most interesting and after an hour or so we returned to the boat, through the surf. We prepared a barbeque – those of you who have been on one from Sal Darago will know the list ;-) and set off for a small inaccessible (by land) stony beach. We swam, lit the barbeque, had a wonderful time with lizards running over our naked torsos – well Jeremy’s and watched them – the lizards fighting over the carrot skins.
The following morning we had to return to Quinta do Lorde for the gas. There was over 20 knots of wind. We buoyed the stern anchor. We recovered the bow anchor. We then recovered the stern anchor at the bows. It would not have been possible to recover it at the stern in the wind without a resuscitation unit close by. It was nearly midday. The marina had not got our gas yet, but we were to tie up and use their facilities without charge. Kathy had a shower and Jeremy tripped while carrying the stern anchor from the bows to the stern. The anchor fell through the sprayhood causing a long rip, fortunately along a seam. By the time the gas arrived Kathy and Jeremy had (together) repaired the sprayhood (one outside and one “inside” pushing the needle back and forth).
We left at 1730 and our only option for the night was Machico. In the harbour, there were two French boats at anchor, plus they had lines ashore from the stern. Jeremy decided to anchor between them. The French did not immediately realise that there was enough space between their boats, but Sal Darago was suddenly there. Kathy stayed aboard to fend off the port side French boat with which Sal Darago was clearly intent in getting more familiar, whilst Jeremy rowed ashore with a long line. Afterwards the boats lay quite cosily. The second French boat suggested we might put out a stern anchor to try to avoid any more close work with the first boat. Jeremy used the stern anchor for the second time. It was then that we noticed that there were lorries on the “beach”… see photo. They stopped at 2300 and began again at 0800.
The French boats decided that they had been in Machico long enough and at 0400, they left. They were quite noisy, but luckily Jeremy had not fouled their anchors so they left without disturbing us more than in the “normal” way when one uses an outboard on a dinghy to recover a rope 50 metres away from one’s boat. In the morning, we went shopping and then had to report to the Capitao Maritima (Harbour Master). He needed to register all our details. After that the stern anchor, the mooring line and the bow anchor needed to be recovered. We left Machico after midday and enjoyed a fast sail under genoa alone up to Funchal. (Up to 7.3 knots on the log). Here the wind died away and then came up on the nose and we motored all the way to a very pleasant, quiet marina at Calheta, not a digger in sight.
Tomorrow we return to Funchal and hopefully will avoid a predicted South wind, by anchoring in the harbour. We hope to gain a permit in Funchal for the Islas Desertas – about 20 miles south of Madeira and if the wind behaves as predicted we shall set off for the Canaries, via Islas Desertas, on Saturday.
The Baia d’Abra was remote, but on a very popular tourist walk. Fortunately these walkers were up half a mountain and never really bothered us. The wind whistled over a saddle in the hills and we were quite often buffeted with 25 knots. This slewed us sideways onto the swell and we rolled. After rocking and rolling until 0100, Saturday, Jeremy decided to use the new flopper stoppers. By 0200 they were deployed, but careful reading of the instructions by head torch showed him that 5 flopper stoppers were needed on EACH side. As we had only bought 5 the rolling decreased, but did not stop. In the morning Jeremy took the dinghy and stern anchor(first use) and deployed it and about thirty metres of anchor line (rope). This kept Sal Darago straight and normal service was resumed.
We kept threatening to have a barbeque, but all these exertions meant that Jeremy was less than enthusiastic to land the dinghy through the surf for a damp barbeque. We had steak onboard that evening.
Following a good night’s kip, we both decided to join the walkers to see what the attraction was. Mostly, when we got halfway up the mountain, it appeared to be a view of …Sal Darago. No… it was most interesting and after an hour or so we returned to the boat, through the surf. We prepared a barbeque – those of you who have been on one from Sal Darago will know the list ;-) and set off for a small inaccessible (by land) stony beach. We swam, lit the barbeque, had a wonderful time with lizards running over our naked torsos – well Jeremy’s and watched them – the lizards fighting over the carrot skins.
The following morning we had to return to Quinta do Lorde for the gas. There was over 20 knots of wind. We buoyed the stern anchor. We recovered the bow anchor. We then recovered the stern anchor at the bows. It would not have been possible to recover it at the stern in the wind without a resuscitation unit close by. It was nearly midday. The marina had not got our gas yet, but we were to tie up and use their facilities without charge. Kathy had a shower and Jeremy tripped while carrying the stern anchor from the bows to the stern. The anchor fell through the sprayhood causing a long rip, fortunately along a seam. By the time the gas arrived Kathy and Jeremy had (together) repaired the sprayhood (one outside and one “inside” pushing the needle back and forth).
We left at 1730 and our only option for the night was Machico. In the harbour, there were two French boats at anchor, plus they had lines ashore from the stern. Jeremy decided to anchor between them. The French did not immediately realise that there was enough space between their boats, but Sal Darago was suddenly there. Kathy stayed aboard to fend off the port side French boat with which Sal Darago was clearly intent in getting more familiar, whilst Jeremy rowed ashore with a long line. Afterwards the boats lay quite cosily. The second French boat suggested we might put out a stern anchor to try to avoid any more close work with the first boat. Jeremy used the stern anchor for the second time. It was then that we noticed that there were lorries on the “beach”… see photo. They stopped at 2300 and began again at 0800.
The French boats decided that they had been in Machico long enough and at 0400, they left. They were quite noisy, but luckily Jeremy had not fouled their anchors so they left without disturbing us more than in the “normal” way when one uses an outboard on a dinghy to recover a rope 50 metres away from one’s boat. In the morning, we went shopping and then had to report to the Capitao Maritima (Harbour Master). He needed to register all our details. After that the stern anchor, the mooring line and the bow anchor needed to be recovered. We left Machico after midday and enjoyed a fast sail under genoa alone up to Funchal. (Up to 7.3 knots on the log). Here the wind died away and then came up on the nose and we motored all the way to a very pleasant, quiet marina at Calheta, not a digger in sight.
Tomorrow we return to Funchal and hopefully will avoid a predicted South wind, by anchoring in the harbour. We hope to gain a permit in Funchal for the Islas Desertas – about 20 miles south of Madeira and if the wind behaves as predicted we shall set off for the Canaries, via Islas Desertas, on Saturday.
Friday 12 September 2008
Early September
Paradise Porto Santo Style
Kathy on the North of the island
Looking East Porto Santo
The Santa Maria looking very like The Black Pearl
Approaching Madeira
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